• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.555-563
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• 2010

With recent advances in 3D scanning technology, three-dimensional (3D) patternmaking is becoming a powerful way to develop garments pattern. This technology is now applicable to the made to measure (MTM) system of both ordinary and tightly fitting garments. Although the pattern of fitted clothing has been developed using 3D human data, it is still interesting to develop cycling pants by considering while-cycling body posture and fabric elasticity. This study adopted the Garland's triangle simplification method in order to simplify data without distorting the original 3D scan. Next, the Runge-Kutta method (2C-AN program) was used to develop a 2D pattern from the triangular pixels in the 3D scanned data. The 3D scanned data of four male, university students aged from 21 to 25, was obtained using Whole body scanner (Model WB4, Cyberware, Inc., USA). Results showed the average error of measurement was $4.58cm^2$ (0.19%) for area and 0~0.61cm for the length between the 3D body scanned data and the 2D developed pattern data. This is an acceptable range of error for garment manufacture. Additionally, the 2D pattern developed, based on the 3D body scanned data, did not need ease for comfort or ease of movement when cycling. This study thus provides insights into how garment patterns may be developed for ergonomic comfort in certain special environments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.606-612
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• 2013

This paper investigates the physical properties of organic cotton staple yarns manufactured by ring and siro spinning methods as well as analyzes the physical properties of fabric specimens knitted with staple yarns made by these two methods. The breaking stress and evenness of organic ring staple yarns showed the same level for the Japanese specimens as the control yarns; in addition, the same coefficient for the friction of the manufactured yarns and Japanese specimens was also shown. These results makes it possible to manufacture organic staple ring yarns from organic cotton fibers. The tenacity and breaking strain of siro staple yarns were higher than ring staple yarns. The evenness and friction coefficient of siro staple yarns were lower than the ring staple yarns; in addition, hairiness and the number of siro staple yarns was significantly lower than the ring staple yarns. The dimensional stabilities of knitted fabrics by 20 Ne and 30 Ne siro staple yarns were superior to ring staple yarns. The color fastnesses of washing, perspiration and abrasion of knitted fabrics by two spinning methods showed the same level as the 4.5 grade; however, the light fastness of knitted fabric by siro staple yarns was superior to ring staple yarns. It was shown that the siro spinning method (using eco-friendly organic cotton fibers) was applicable to a high sensible knitted garment that overcame drawbacks of organic fibers related to shrinkable properties after washing and low color fastness to light.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.114-117
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• 2016

It is recognized that the global apparel market of the twenty-first century is largely profit driven, and that the majority of producers and retailers have sourced products from the lowest cost locations. Purchase tickets of fashion goods available from 'fast' fashion retailers (at least within the UK) refrain from providing the consumer with details of the full circumstances of production. It seems that the majority of major retailers and producers are not willing to engage in levels of self-regulation which could ensure that the products offered to consumers are ethically produced and offer acceptable levels of sustainability. Meanwhile many fashion consumers have the desire to purchase sustainable products, produced ethically by workers paid fair wages in safe working environments. Consumer demand could be a powerful tool to adjust the behaviour of manufacturers and buyers. This paper proposes the introduction of international legislation demanding greater degrees of transparency than exist currently and that the full sourcing and production details of fashion products are stated clearly on the product's purchase ticket within its retail setting. With the introduction of such legislation, consumers could thus be given the opportunity of purchasing goods which they feel accommodate their own views on ethical manufacture and sustainable products. In turn, consumer pressure could ensure indirectly that retail buyers consider all ethical and sustainable aspects of production when negotiating with garment producers/suppliers. Further to this, such a negotiating stance could ensure the improvement of the terms and conditions of employment of the numerous garment workers worldwide.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.3 s.9
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• pp.45-49
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• 2006

Silk Industry doesn't have enough strategic ability to plan the product for internal and external strong competition and global luxury trend in Jinju. To provide silk fashion planning information and planning method, this study investigated the fabric planning system, such as product system and problems, the method of seeking information, via questionnaires for 68 Jinju silk companies. The results were that the Korean traditional garment, Han-bok and lining of that were given more wight in Jinju Silk for domestic, and the next, neckties. These silk had produced by OEM and didn't have almost my planning ability, but nowadays buyers wanted to get some planning ideas from manufactures, not giving any planning guideline before production, more and more. For Jinju Silk Fabric Companies, planning direction of silk fabrics of vision were needed, that had to be adaptable to manufacture situation and applicable to market.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.673-681
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• 2005

Sewing is an important process in clothes-making. It is directly or indirectly connected to a factor of fitness, as is the case of pattern making and design. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the sewing methods for tight skirts currently being sold by twelve clothing companies on the market. For the purpose, the skirts, which was released in 2002 Fall season, was physically disassembled and then every sewing detail was closely investigated. The major findings are as follows: All sorts of the skirts show different sewing methods in hemlines, back slits, and zipper. Hemlines and zippers, hand-sewn, are often used by high-price brands. Brands that emphasize trends usually use machine sewing. Specifically, the sewing methods applied in the allowances at the upper part of the back slit show significant differences among brands. One method leaves allowances enough in both sides for the stability of the skirts, another trims both allowances very closely, and the other trims only left-side allowance down to the edge of the back slit. This study findings will be helpful not only in understanding sewing techniques for skirts and improving its quality, but also in offering more comfortable and superior clothes for consumers.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Information and Commucation Sciences Conference
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• 2015.05a
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• pp.553-556
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• 2015

In almost all of the Hand-made suit plants, while garment cutters are hard to measure the body size by their own, they are not quick. And each of the individual's standard is vague, so it is hard to get a consistency. So it will give the customers some displeasure with the body contact. To improve this kind of problems, in this paper proposes a efficient way that is hard to measure by the general image processing technology to measure when you manufacture a Hand-made suit and measure a body size by wearing a elastic band that has a printed mark that has some information of length and taking a picture of the body by a digital camera.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1228-1241
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• 2010

This study aims to help understanding on design of basic pattern of shirt collars and to suggest schemes to raise completeness of shape by reviewing problems shown in finished products after sewing. From March 2009 to August 2009, 12 patterns for education and firms were collected centering on basic shirt collar form respectively. There are four problems generally raised from a completed shirt collar. In case of overlapping shirt collar on front neck point, the sewing point of shirt collar should be drawn at front neck point of collar band at a distance of about 0.2~0.3cm, and the center front of band and one of bodice should be arranged in a straight line. In case of the problem about right and left length difference of shirt collar, it is raised by closing so the problem was solved by prolonging about 0.2 cm of the center front of left collar. It was evaluated that adjusting notch point when sewing would be more rational solution than solving something on patterns for distance difference problem of shirt collar between right and left part at center front. And a problem about getting loose of front garment between collar band below and the first button was also raised. It was designed 0.2cm cut of collar band. Around basic shirt collar form, above mentioned solutions are applied to the patterns for education and manufacture experimental clothing. So as a result of sensory evaluation, generally good ratings on all items were received.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.354-363
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• 2003

In this research, an internet-based fabric information system has been developed. Recently, the numbers of textile industries which have their own homepages to advertise their product fabrics fur apparel through the Internet and textile e-Commerce web sites rapidly increase. Unfortunately, traditional fabric information systems based on direct meeting and trust cannot give sufficient information to numerous visitors of the Internet sites including fabric buyers for apparel. They can just view 3-dimensional fabric images and text-based specifications such as fabric density, composition, colors, weight, etc. To solve these problems, the new fabric information system fur apparel has been developed. The web-based fabric information system is composed of the following six modules; $\circled1$ fabric database management system, $\circled2$ a 3-D fabric drape image viewer to illustrate fabric appearances, $\circled3$ a virtual wearing system to apply a fabric to garment designs, $\circled4$ a fabric property viewer to confirm fabric characteristics, $\circled5$ a QC (quality control) document generator to manufacture high qualify garments with a fabric, and$\circled6$actual display mall to view actual fabrics. The fabric information system is simply performed by visitors clicking the buttons hyper-linked with JAVA applets on web browser. The web-based fabric information system enables the web site visitors to understand fabrics shown on the Internet in more details.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1035-1049
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was specifically focused on the lower garment sizing system of adolescent apparel, especially on trousers for adolescent boys. Research Method was performed by using the physical measurements of adolescent boys ($14\sim19$ years old, n=1,344) based on the 'he fifth Korean national physical standard reports' surveyed by SIZEKOREA. The basic materials for this study are obtained from the observations of physical characteristics and classification of physical figures based on the characteristics from waist down. The results from this study are as follows. 1) according to the analyses of physical changes, most items including height, circumference, length, breadth and depth were increased at the age of $14\sim18$ and gradually reduced at the age of 19. 2) The factors which compose the lower body resulted were appeared that the first factor was vertical factor, the second factor was horizontal factor, the third factor was hip length, and the last factor was buttlock-popliteal length. 3) Formalization of physical figures for adolescent boy's lower body analyzed from factors grouped three types. 4) The basic parts that we used to propose the apparel sizing system distinguished by physical figures were Waist Circumference (Omphalion) (every 3cm regular gap) and Hip Circumference (irregular gap). Physical figures assigned 5 to Type T, and 4 to type M. The reference measurement items were divided into 7 items which are correlated with apparel manufacture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.134-152
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• 2008

Functional, aesthetic and symbolic working uniforms in the industrial complex are demanded by employees and employers. The purpose of this research was to find out the actual wearing condition and preference of the working uniform design in the industrial complex. The research selected 7 enterprise subjects located in the Changwon National Industrial Complex and adopted a questionnaire method. 912 workers categorized into 4 work groups according to their work posts replied in total. The data and the degrees of satisfaction/preference of the working uniforms were analysed into descriptive statistics and F-tests by using the SPSS S/W package. The results were as follows: First, the style of the working uniform was the standard two-piece style. Second, the degree of the satisfaction with the entrepreneurial image implied to the working uniform was 2.83 throughout the 5-scale evaluation. In addition, the degree of the satisfaction with the working uniform colors was in between 2.94 and 2.96. Third, unsatisfied parts of the upper and lower uniform garments were: sleeve > pocket > collar; and waist belt loop > hip pocket > hem line respectively. Fourth, beige was the most preferred color for the working uniform top and bottom both. The most preferred color images were the calm and safety and the bright and light in order. Especially, the demand on the safety factors and soil proof colors of the outside field workers was much higher than the clerical workers. Fifth, the blouson type jacket with shirts collar or soutien roll collar was more preferred to than the casual style; and the straight formal pants were more preferred to than the casual/sweat sports pants styles. Sixth, inner pockets to keep the mobile phone and pens were required for upper garment details specially by manufacture workers. Increase of the waist belt loop numbers was required by all work groups.