• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.128-149
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• 2011

This study dealing with the Italian futurist and Russian constructivist costume designs which aimed for new fashion design freed from the conventional meanings of fashion and explore the artistic purpose reflected within the designs expressed differently according to cultural and regional differences in order examine the early 20th century Avant-grade costume designs. The scope of this study is limited to the 1910s to the 1930s when the Italian futurism and the Russian constructivism were originated and were most active. This monograph focused on the works of the Italian futurists, Giacomo Balla who declared the 'Manifesto delle moda minile futurista', Fortunato Depero, and Thayaht who suggested a new direction for the futurist, and on the works of the Russian constructivists Alexander Rodchenko, Varvara Stepanova and Liubov Popova. As an one method of investigated, this paper is used materials of various sources to examine their features. Futurists costume designs expressed a radical conception of progress and their source of aesthetics was dynamism. The concept of 'power' which was the basis of the futurists was incorporated in the costumes while non-symmetrical cut-outs and bright and vivid colors completed the futurist costume designs. Moreover the Russian constructivists brought advances in the field of fabric and textile designs. What was particularly interesting about the Russian constructivist costumes was that the artists worked at the textile mills themselves, directly involved in the designs and manufacturing of fabric, developing an advancement in textile and a new understanding of costume. Furthermore, many Russian artists settled in Paris, actively participating in the fashion industry, and therefore, they have greatly contributed to the development of the early 20th century Avant-garde costume designs.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.8
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• pp.17-26
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to identify the aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion design use with a particular focus on transparency, and to help create future vision and feature. As part of the methodology for this study, I examined the concept of transparency, its characteristics and how it was expressed through art, architecture and other designs using literature research. Furthermore, I performed justifiable analysis on modern fashion design which used transparency from the 1990s till present. The following concepts were deciphered from information: Firstly, the concept of purity was highlighted. The emphasis here was to enhance the body's natural beauty with simple silhouettes that do not restrict its curves, using light materials such as clear vinyl, semi-clear materials or thin chiffon. Secondly, to express sensuality by exposing the body's curves with tight wrapping using clear materials, or with indirect and symbolic see-through techniques using contrasting clear, semi-clear and opaque materials. Thirdly, to express futurism through cyber and electronic images using high tech or shiny materials such as metal or holograms. Mechanical movements or effects of light are also used. Fourthly, to express playful characteristic by promoting surprises and disharmony that contradict with traditional techniques. This is carried out by intentionally exaggerating certain portions of clothes through disorder elements or confusion, and unsymmetrical shapes which destruct the human body's normal form.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.131-147
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• 1997

The works of the Futurism were developed along with manifestos and statement in publishing " The Foundation and Manifestos of Futurism" Futurist aesthetic and ideological agenda on futurist fashion displayed in mani-festos on clothes. It was propagated in con-summate Futurist style through the written manifestos. The Futurists anticipated much of modern fashion phenomenon. In Futurist Men's Cloth-ing in 1914 they believed continual renual of our today's clothes. Today's clothes is much our today's clothes. Today's clothes is much more simple than yesterday's clothes. The oppositions of the type between yesterday's clothes and today's clothes are mournful=play-ful melancolic-cheerful grey-colorful tradi-tional-emphemeral. Futurist men's clothing is aggressive agile dynamic simple and confor-table hygienic gay luminous volatile asym-metric ephemeral and variable. In general the Futurist argued for clothes that promoted simple and functionality. They made dynamic patterns in textile design and asymmetric geometric cuts in pattern making. They suggested an unconventional matetials and strong bright colors and modificanti. These elements pointed the way to a shim-mering exuberant future.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.46-48
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• 2000

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.217-228
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• 2001

This study* 1) historically considered the meaning of light which has frequently wed as the subject of artistic expression since Renaissance, in order to grasp an artistic atmosphere about light and rays before the allusion of Rayonism. non it inspected closely the course of changes of light as a result of historic circumstances and intended to understand how Rusian Rayonism of the 20th, which maintained these effects of light more rationally, had an influence on modern fashion. It was created by Mikhail Larionov and developed by his wife, N. Goncharova. The main special feature of Rayonism wag the crossing of reflected ras, emerging from various objects. Most of these things depended on line and color. Re purpose of Rayonism paintings was to create a new space from arising from which reflected rays from various selected objected crossed one another. Namely, artists maintained that they should give up various objects of visible world and express rays which were reflected objects and crossed in complex. Rayonists were affected by Cubism and Futurism and came to fake an interest in relations whose rays of parallel or convergent color made, also in expression of themes. Since that, Rayonsim affected Supermatisme and Constructivism. Re pursuit of light and rays from the 19th until the early 20th came to appear in fashion as well as in art as it was. As Rayonists created a new space from which reflected rays from selected objects crossed one another, they used line and color as the main techniques of expression. in this way the attempt which intended to express rays, using itself of the line and color, appeared as futile design of tots of designs like Donna Karan, Cianni Versace and Rococo Barocco and so on of Modem fashion. This was designed for essential elements of pure art to express the new aestheic consciousness through fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.582-593
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• 2002

Metal materials have been used in the clothing design on the spirit of ingenious experiment by fashion designers, and they have been put to practical use by several designers who work out a scheme of popular fashion merchandise. This current starting from the 1960s was weakened in the 1980s, but it was appeared with various shapes of metal materials in the 1990s due to a popularity of techno/cyber fashion. Recently, textile engineering technology causes to develop new-materials which are practical and sanitary. The development of fashionable metal materials brings about the popularization of fashion with metal materials, and it induces that mainstream of modem fashion has been changed into designers of pursuing the spirit of ingenious experiment. This study examines the formative characteristics of metal materials that are based on the spirit of ingenious experiment. As a result, it is evaluated that the formative of metal materials shown in modern fashion is futurism, visual concentration, avast-garde, resistance, precious.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.109-126
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressional characteristics of the machine aesthetics in the fashion design. First, this study was started from analyzing mechanical beauty represented on the early 20th century art style. Machine aesthetics has influenced on the art and fashion design from modern to now. Futurism was grounded in the complete renewal of human sensibility brought about by the great discoveries of science. Especially, Russia avant-garde was inspired by the Futurism, that is Rayonism, Constructivism, Suprematism. Kasimir Malevich moved on immediately to purely abstract paintings of which the first was a black square on a white canvas. He had begun the art he called 'Suprematism'. Malevich's geometry was funded on the straight line, the supremely elemental form which symbolized man's ascendancy over the chaos of nature. The square was the basic suprematist element and was a repudiation of the world of appearances, and of past art. He repudiated any marriage of convenience between the artist and the engineer. Vladimir Tatlin made some of the most revolutionary works of modern art, these were the first works to be called 'construction'. Constructivists believed that the essential conditions of the machine and the consciousness of man inevitably create an aesthetic which would reflect their time. They eulogized simple shapes. That believed that buildings and objects should be freed from the ornamental excrescences and the accumulated barnacles of past art. Consequently, under the theoretical background, the result is as follows. First, The functional formativeness of machine aesthetics was expressed as a geometrical silhouette, construction line, non-ornamental construction, simple color in the 20th century design. Second, The mechanical formativeness of machine aesthetics was expressed as a construction of new material-iron, aluminium, plastic, glass-, geometrical form of material in he 20th century design. That is, machine beauty has more concerned with the expressional ideology of the art style and the formativeness of fashion design by silhouette, construction line, material, form.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.839-853
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• 2016

This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance "Victory Over the Sun" was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. "Victory Over the Sun" did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in "Victory Over the Sun", and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on "Victory Over the Sun" from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on "Victory Over the Sun". and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.125-137
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• 2003

This study is to explore the Post-modern fashion image appeared in the costumes of the movie $\ulcorner$Matrix2-Reloaded$\lrcorner$, which is believed to adapt successfully the Postmodernism ideas on screen. From this study, we can find that the movie costumes express certain formative characteristics considerably affected by the contemporary fashion trends such as Minimalism, Formalism, Futurism, Ethno-eclecticism, Asexualism. These are mostly common tendencies aroused in the complex and pluralistic circumstances of Postmodernism where many diverse values are equally regarded. Finally, the 5 trends lead to represent the following symbolic meanings with entanglement in multiplex ways, that is Virtual Reality, Mechanic Artificiality, Human Dignity, Mysticism, Multi-Culturism, and Nonsexuality to create a strong unified imagery and style in that Post-modern movie.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.66-78
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• 2004

A leather clothes which was a representative item of an existed resistant image created a new esthetics. Cyber Resistance, being mixed with the highlighted cyber image in these days. Especially. the image of such new leather clothes appears apparently in SF movies. The purpose of this study is to examine this new esthetics through the leather clothes of the movie. $\ulcorner$Matrix$\urcorner$. currently becoming the subject of a conversation and affecting to a popular culture and the fashion and to help to the design idea of a unique leather clothes. The result of analyzing of the character in the movie is following. Trinity shows herself as a woman warrior by wearing tight black leather suit. Morpheus is described as a vague character with his old fashioned suit and leather trench coat. while Niobe carries an image of rebellious cyber warrior in her leather suit with unique texture. In addition. leather clothes on $\ulcorner$Matrix$\urcorner$ got the name of Matrix look and became a main theme in fashion collection. We can feel 'Cyber Resistance' esthetics in that leather clothes through the movie and fashion collection and summarize into three following features, First. it's grafted into the dichotomous value by progress and return as a retro futurism. Second. it moderately express a rebellious image of punk into a cyber image. Third. it makes cyber warrior's image that is neutralized mixing military and fetish properly.