• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.51-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to check color change depending on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics was dyed with gromwell and to investigate mordant effect when synthetic tannin was used as a mordant. First, when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell, the change of color, brightness and chroma were examined by measuring K/S value, a, b value, L value and C value depending on dyeing condition. Second, color, brightness and chroma differences which appeared after mordanting with synthetic tannin were investigated and muti-functional mordanting effect was confirmed with dyeing fastness, antibiosis. As a result of color analysis of gromwell, it was proved that the main pigment of gromwell was shikonin. Color was red purple at pH 3 when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell. But It became greenish and bluish as temperature rose and time passed by. And it grew reddish and yellowish as concentration level reached higher. The color became purple at pH 5 and purple blue at pH 7. Both at pH 5 and pH 7, it became greenish and yellowish, as temperature went up and time ran by. And it became reddish with concentration increasing. Brightness and chroma decreased with temperature and concentration increasing as well as time passing by. After mordanting with synthetic tannin, the color became less reddish at pH 3 and reddish-yellowish at pH 5 and pH 7. The brightness increased and the chroma decreased. At all pH, the color, the brightness and the chroma became similarly by synthetic tannin mordanting. Dyeing fastness of synthetic tannin mordanted fabric was higher than that of non-mordanted fabric. Especially, wet fastness at pH 3 improved from 1 grade before synthetic tannin mordanting to $3{\sim}4$ grade after tannin mordanting. Antibiosis was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.380-386
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• 2016

This study examined the stainability and functionality of cotton dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. as a research preceding the development of health functional materials and fashion products with a healing motif. The CIELAB measurements of the cotton fabric dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. showed 73.32 for $L^*$, 1.7 for $a^*$, and 37.78 for $b^*$, while the Munsell measurements exhibited 2.63Y in color, 7.18 of brightness, and 5.49 of chroma. The degree of staining resulting from color fastness to laundering, and that resulting from color fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline), as well as the level of color fastness to crocking (wet and dry) all stayed between relatively higher levels of 4 and 5. The fabric dyed also exhibited SPF 50+, an outstanding sun blocking performance. The deodorization rate was also excellent, rising from 97% to over 99% when the time elapsed increased from 30 minutes to 120 minutes. The fabric dyed also showed a 99.6% antimicrobial activity against staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, and a 71.4% antimicrobial activity against Klebsiella pneumoniae ATCC 4352. The aforementioned findings indicate that fabrics dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. contain the potential to be developed for use as health-related materials and fashion products that promote healing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.870-879
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• 2006

In this study, the difference in the mechanical properties of silver and cotton weft knitted fabrics was studied. Six silver fabrics for the summer ladies' knit outwear were knitted varying knit structure and fabric density. Two commercial cotton knitted fabrics were selected to compare the properties. subjective sensation of hand of the fabrics was also studied. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(THV) was carried out according to the KW-304 Summer. The result of the research show that silver weft knitted fabrics had lower LT, RT, G, 2HG and higher EM, W, LC, WC, RC than cotton weft knitted fabrics. The use of silver yam contributed to increase in surface roughness of knitted fabrics. As the silver knitted fabrics became thicker compressional energy increased. The use of silver yarns contributed to much better fabric handle compared with the use of cotton yam only. It appeared that coefficient of friction of tuck stitch was larger than that of plain and interlock stitch. KOSHI and FUKURAMI values of the tuck samples were significantly higher than those values of the plain and interlock samples, while SHARI values were low in general. The total hand value of tuck stitch was higher than those of interlock and plain stitch.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.217-224
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• 2010

Research has been conducted to examine the effects of mechanical and sound characteristics of fabrics on affective quality. The present study developed the Affective Quality Evaluation and Estimation System for Textiles (AQEEST) with distinguished features that can be effectively used in the affective research of fabric frictional sound. The AQEEST consists of three subsystems (affective quality evaluation, affective quality estimation, and audible distance estimation subsystems) and each subsystem consists of three to four modules (e.g., evaluation condition setup, evaluation experimentation, and textile database management modules) depending on its functional requirements. The affective quality evaluation subsystem was designed to help administer an experiment in a systematic manner and present acoustic and visual stimuli simultaneously in various gait conditions (walking, jogging, and running) to mimic a more realistic situation of textile frictional sound production. Next, the affective quality estimation subsystem was designed to estimate the sound characteristics, affective qualities, overall psychological satisfaction, and reference cluster of a textile using its mechanical and/or sound characteristic information. Lastly, the audible distance estimation subsystem was designed to estimate the just noticeable sound pressure levels and audible distances of a textile for various gait conditions using its mechanical characteristic information. The AQEEST can be upgraded by accommodating more affective quality study results for various textiles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.244-251
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• 2016

Viscose rayon filament fabrics have been called 'artificial silk' and beloved as summer clothing materials for a long time in Korea. This is because the viscose rayon filament fabrics reveals glossy surface and cool touch feeling compared to other conventional fabrics composed of staple fibers. Therefore, we tried to prepare the higher value added viscose rayon filament fabrics for summer textile products. In this study, we applied gallnut extract to the viscose rayon filament fabric to develop summer fabrics with natural color and multi-functions such as antibacterial and antioxidant properties. This process also pursue eco-friendly and multi-functional fabric finishing from the natural material "gallnut". In addition, various pre-treatment with cationizer, chitosan, or chito-oligomer was applied to the finishing process to improve the finishing efficacy and durability. Consequently, it was found that the active component of gallnut extract was successfully incorporated to the viscose rayon filament fabric through a pad-dry-cure process. And, the treated viscose rayon filament fabrics showed excellent antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Therefore, it was expected that the rayon filament fabrics treated by gallnut extract could be used as effective summer fabrics preventing the growth of bacteria and skin ageing as well as providing cool touch feeling. However, the pre-treatments were not that meaningful on the functionalities but effective on coloring.

• Journal of the Institute of Electronics Engineers of Korea SD
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.15-25
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• 2012

The research on the FPGA CAD tools in academia has been lacking practicality due to the underlying FPGA fabric architecture which is too simple and inefficient to be applied for commercial FPGAs. Recently, the database of placement positions and routing graphs on commercial FPGA architectures has been built, and provided for enabling the academic development of placement and routing tools. To extend the limit of academic CAD tools even further, we have developed the evaluation toolkit for the K-FPGA architecture which is under development. By providing interface for exchanging data with a commercial FPGA toolkit at every step of mapping, packing, placement and routing in the tool chain, the toolkit enables individual tools to be developed without waiting for the results of the preceding step, and with no dependency on the quality of the results, and compared in detail with commercial tools at any step. Also, the fabric primitive library is developed by extracting the prototype from a reporting file of a commercial FPGA, restructuring it, and modeling the behavior of basic gates. This library can be used as the benchmarking target, and a reference design for new FPGA architectures. Since the architecture is described in a standard HDL which is familiar with hardware designers, and read in the tools rather than hard coded, the tools are "data-driven", and tolerable with the architectural changes due to the design space exploration. The experiments confirm that the developed library is correct, and the functional correctness of applications implemented on the FPGA fabric can be validated by simulation. The placement and routing tools are under development. The completion of the toolkit will enable the development of practical FPGA architectures which, in return, will synergically animate the research on optimization CAD tools.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.10
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• pp.1665-1672
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• 2009

This study examines the comfort of outdoorwear by electrocardiogram (ECG) and electroencephalogram (EEG) analyses. An experiment that consisted of rest (30 min), exercise (30 min), and recovery (20 min) periods was administered in a climate chamber with 10 healthy male participants. Two kinds of outdoorwear made of 100% cotton fabrics ('Control') and specially engineered fabrics having the feature of quick sweat absorbency and high speed drying fabric ('Functional') are evaluated in the experiment. ECG and EEG signals were obtained during the rest and recovery periods for the two outdoorwear conditions. The ECG analysis identified a smaller decrement of high frequency (HF) power for the 'Functional' when compared with the 'Control' during the recovery period. Next, the EEG analysis showed that the relative band powers of slow $\alpha$ and mid $\alpha$ increased for the 'Functional' while they decreased for the 'Control' and that the ratio of $\alpha$ power to high $\beta$ power was higher for the 'Functional'. The evaluation results indicate that the participants could remain relaxed more with less stress while wearing the functional outdoorwear that demonstrated the positive effects on autonomic nervous system (ANS) activities. The present study is significant in regard that use of ECG and EEG for the assessment of wear comfort is the first in the field of clothing and textile.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.800-810
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• 2014

In this study, the current status of product information of functional outdoor jackets in the hang-tags was investigated in perspective of consumer protection. Effectiveness and preferred alternatives to hang-tag information were also investigated. For the market survey, 1560 hang-tags from 676 functional outdoor jackets were investigated. For the effectiveness and preferred alternatives, 472 adults in their 20-60's were surveyed. The average number of hang-tags was 2.3 but 5.9% did not provide any product information. The contents included functional property of fabric; quality guarantee; brand introduction; product characteristics; instructions for care/usage; subsidiary material information, and they were different depending on end-use of jackets. Consumers strongly wanted explanations of the terms used in the hang-tag and could not accurately figure out the functions of the products from hang-tag information regardless of expression methods. The percentage of incorrect answer of 'figure/foreign language' method was extremely high. It is a noticeable feature of graph method that customers perceived that the graph was difficult to understand, but the percentage of correct answers was much higher than other methods, implying that graph method was possibly more useful at delivering accurate information to the customers who pursuit information. Customers strongly agreed to need of alternative methods and preferred an unified performance grade from selected functions based on the end-use of products. Customers also wanted to include the information of performance change after laundering. The results could provide practical insights to the consumers, companies, and the government to prepare proper guideline/policies for consumer protection.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.350-361
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• 1996

The objectives of this study mere 1) to investigate whether the different nonwoven fabric types influenced on the objective and subjective wear performances of the experimental pesticide protective pants, 2) to detect whether the different finishes treated to the nonwoven fabrics influenced on the objective and subjective wear performances of the experimental pants, and 3) to detect the relationships between objective wear performances and subjective wear sensation. Three types of nonwoven fabrics (T (Tyvek$\textregistered$), 5 (Sontara$\textregistered$) and K (Kimlon$\textregistered$)) were used as test specimens. By pad-dry.cure method, each of the specimen was treated with fluorocarbon compound for water-oil repellent finish (Tw, Sw, Kw). And each of specimen was treated with organic silicon quarternary ammonium salts and then treated with fluorocabon compound for dual functional finish (76, 50, Kd). Using the three water-oil repellent finished fabrics and the three dual functional finished fabrics, six experimental protective pants (Cl (Tw), C2 (Sw), C3 (Kw), C4 (76), C5 (56), C6 (Kd)) were made according to the same pattern suggested by the Rual Guidance Office. The wear trials of experimental pesticide protective pants were performed in a conditioned vinyl plastic hothouse ($30\pm1^{\circ}C$, $70\pm5%$R.H., 0.25m/sec air velocity). The measurements of skin temperature, microclimate temperature and humidity on the subjects were obtained by the themohygromenter. The subjective wear sensations were measured using previously developed thermal, humidity and overall comfort scales. The results obtained from this study were as follows: 1) There were siginificant differences among nonwoven fabric types on the objective and subjective wear performances, therefore, the skin temperature, microclimate temperature and humidity of subjects who wore the experimental pants made with Sontara were siginificantly lower than those who wore the others. And, the experimental pants made with Sontara were assessed as more comfortable than the others in terms of the subjective thermal, humidity and overall wear sensations. 2) There were no significant differences between two finish types on the objective and subjective wear Performances. 3) The microclimate humidity on the thigh was highly correlated with the overall subjective comfort sensations and the next highly correlated one was the mean skin temperature. That is, the higher the microclimate humidity and the mean skin temperature, the higher the overall subjective comfort sensation ratings which mean the overall subjective sensation was very uncomfortable.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.67-81
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• 2004

This research demonstrates clothing consumption values, fashion preferences of career women from the early 1920s to late 1930s. And having thorough understanding of values and preferences, allows us to establish marketing strategies for clothing companies. The main purpose of this study is (1) to formalize consumer group based upon the clothing consumption values, (2) to find for characteristics of consumer depending on classification of consumption value in clothing, (3) to understand the preferences of career women about fashion trends. Analyzing data was performed 292 copies, resulting factor analysis, Cluster analysis, X-test, Anova, Tukey test, t-test, frequency analysis, and reliability analysis. This paper showed 7 distinctive characteristics of career women about clothing consumption value. These characteristics can be listed as 1) value of brand image, 2) value of self-expression, 3) functional values, 4) epistemic values, 5) coordination values, 6) social values 7) psychological values. Importantly, brand image value became most significant aspects among 7 factors. Analyzing consumers based upon stated 7 factors, it was found that they are segregated into 4 groups; Self-expressive Group, Psychological Stability Group, Functional Group, Social Group. Secondly, for fashion trend preferences, self-expressive group, psychological stability group, and functional group favored Romantic Feminine Style respectively. Social Group showed preference in Nu-Basic'. The reason for such trend dealt with fabric materials and colors. Finally examining population statistics, younger generations showed more preferences in Nu-Basic', and consumers from ages of 26 to 28, 32 to 34 showed preferences in Romantic Feminine' regardless of their household income, clothing related expenditures, jobs, and education level. On the other hand, 'Modem Classic' was popular among college graduates and 'Paradise' was somewhat less popular among all ages except from ages of 32 to 34, consumers consumption 300,000Won to 400,000Won on clothing related expenditures. And 'Energy' seemed to attract more highly educated females, who had more than masters in degrees with over 300,000 to 400,000Won for clothing related expenditures.