• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.7
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• pp.5-19
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• 1983

Sacredotal robe(法服) means full court dress. We can't know about the shape of sacredotal robe before Dae-Han Empire(大韓帝國) since there are no remains of it. The study of sacredotal robe for queen have also been made centering around the socredotal robe granted from Ming(明) dynasty and the system of Juck-Eui(翟衣) in Dae-Han Empire. In this thesis I tried to study about the sacredotal robe for queen from King Gong-Min(恭愍王) of Koryeo(高麗) dynasty to the close the Cho-Sun(朝鮮) dynasty by investigating the Literature of Cho-sun Dynasty Chronicles(朝鮮王朝實錄), Ga Rae Do Gam Eui Gue(嘉禮都監儀軌), Sang Bang Jung Rae(尙方定例), Gook Hon Jung Rae(國婚定例), Sok-Orae Eui-Bo(續五禮儀補), and Dae Myung Whe Jeon(大明會典). The first documents on sacredotal robe for queen is regarded as that in the period of King Gong Min., which says that Chil Whee Gu Bong Gwan and Juck Eui of the 9th grade had been given from Ming dynasty. The sacredotal robe for queen in Chosun had been granted from Ming dynasty since the 3th years of King Tae-Jo(太祖) to the 3th years of King In-Jo(仁祖). They were Ju Chui Chil Juck Gwan, red Dae Sam(大衫), Bae Ja(褙子) embroidered with. pheasants on blue silk, and ivory flat baton (笏), which belonged to the court dress for the first class of court lady. When Qing(淸) dynasty succeeded to Ming dynasty, Cho-sun adopted the system of luck Eui which had it's origin in the system of Ming, denying to comply with Chung. But as a matter of fact, the system of sacredotal robe for queen actually used was one which were different from the dress system of Ming and converted into our national ways. In the latter period. of Cho-sun, the system of Bae Ja or Juck Eui were used together until the period of King Young Jo(英祖), and the system of Juck Eui which was written in Gook Hon Jung Rae was continually used from King Young Jo to the close of Cho-sun. It was composed of Juck Eui, Beol Eui(別衣), Nae Eui(內衣), Pe Sool(蔽膝), Dae Dae(大帶), HaPi, Sang(裳), Ok Dae(玉帶), Pae Ok(佩玉), Gue(圭), Mal(襪), Suk, and Myun sa(面紗), The headdress was used in our own ways, not complying with Juck Gwan(翟冠). The color of Juck Eui was red for queen, deep blue for the consort of the crown prince. The color of Juck Eui in DaHan Empire was deep blue, different from that of Juck Eui in Cho-sun. Bo(補) for queen wus embroidered with dragon with five claws and the one for the consort of crown prince with dragon with four claws. The back length of Juck Eui was longer than front about 28cm (1尺), and the front opening was straight down. 51 motifs of a brace of pheasants which were similiar to Bong(鳳) were embroidered on Juck Eui for queen. But we can't find out whether there 31 or 51 on Juck Eui for the consort of the crown prince. The system shows independant aspects, because there are Bo, Myun Sa, Sang, Ha Pi, Beol Eui, and Nae Eui which were not found in the system of Ming. As mentioned above, I have studied on the sacredotal robe for queen. But we can't guess the detail of sacredotal robe for queen, because there are no remains at all. Therefore I expect more study on this.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.378-385
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• 2006

To release fashion trends in an efficient way, many of the apparel business and fashion educational institutes in land adopt fashion shows employing fashion models. Modeling rather than flat pattern making realizes the majority of the complicated design works for the fashion shows. However, for the different measurements between the dress form and the real human model, problems often occur during the modeling and fitting processes. Researches on the standard dress form development representing professional fashion models' features are therefore in urgent need to enable the related apparel business and fashion institutes to make appropriate use of the dress form in their jobs. The study has been conducted as a preliminary study using a questionnaire method ultimately to develop the female dress form. A questionnaire in the research aimed at an investigation into the actual conditions of and satisfaction with the usage and the body measurements of existed dress forms. Approximately 30 fashion-related educational institutes and 10 apparel companies responded to the survey. Data derived from the survey was analyzed using SPSS version 10.1, the statistics tool. The results throughout the research were discussed in terms of largely three categories that are; (1) the general conditions of the usage of the dress form to prepare fashion shows: e.g. the frequency of holding the fashion show in an annual term, the proportion of professional and amateur models employed for the fashion show, the methods to construct garments, types and number of dress forms utilized and etc.; (2) factors considered to purchase the dress form e.g. its functionality, shapes, sizes, duration, price, A/S condition and etc.; and(3) satisfaction with the similarity between the dress form and the human body in the relation to the body measurements. Measurements in length wise, front and back waist lengths, neck to bust point on the dress forms were apparently differed from the ones of the actual body. In particular, differed torso length measurements cause the problem to have to alter the whole silhouette, consequently, the resultant patterns as well. In girth measurements, in order of bust and waist girths, the satisfaction was low.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1595-1607
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• 2005

Three-dimensional(3-D) body scanners used to capture anthropometric measurements are now becoming a common research tool far apparel. This study had two goals, to test the accuracy and reliability of 3-D measurements of dynamic postures, and !o analyze the change in upper body surface measurements between the standard anthropometric position and various dynamic positions. A comparison of body surface measurements using two different measuring methods, 3-D scan measurements using virtual tools on the computer screen and traditional manual measurements for a standard anthropometric posture and for a posture with shoulder flexion were $-2\~20mm$. Girth items showed some disagreement of values between the two methods. None of the measurements were significantly different except f3r the neckbase girth for any of the measuring methods or postures. Scan measurements of the upper body items showed significant linear surface change in the dynamic postures. Shoulder length, interscye front and back, and biacromion length were the items most affected in the dynamic postures. Changes of linear body surface were very similar for the two measuring methods within the same posture. The repeatability of data taken from the 3-D scans using virtual tools showed satisfactory results. Three times repeated scan measurements f3r the scapula protraction and scapula elevation posture were proven to be statistically the same for all measurement items. Measurements from automatic measuring software that measured the 3-D scan with no manual intervention were compared with the measurements using virtual tools. Many measurements from the automatic program were larger and showed quite different values.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.62-68
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• 2018

This study investigated the effect of light intensity on the removal of particulate matter by Dieffenbachia amoena 'Marianne' and Spathiphyllum spp.. An acrylic chamber ($600{\times}800{\times}1200mm$, $L{\times}W{\times}H$) modeled as an indoor space and a green bio-filter ($495{\times}495{\times}1000mm$, $L{\times}W{\times}H$) as an air purification device were made of acrylic. The removal of particulate matter PM10 and PM1, the photosynthetic rate, stomatal conductance, and number of stomata of Dieffenbachia amoena 'Marianne' and Spathiphyllum spp. were measured according to three different levels of light intensity (0, 30 and $60{\mu}mol{\cdot}m^{-2}{\cdot}s^{-1}PPFD$). Regarding the length of time taken for PM10 to reach $1{\mu}g$, the Dieffenbachia amoena 'Marianne' showed a significant difference according to the presence or absence of light, and there was no significant difference shown between light intensity of 30 and $60{\mu}mol{\cdot}m^{-2}{\cdot}s^{-1}PPFD$. As for the Spathiphyllum spp., there was no significant difference between 0 and $30{\mu}mol{\cdot}m^{-2}{\cdot}s^{-1}PPFD$, while a significant difference was shown at $60{\mu}mol{\cdot}m^{-2}{\cdot}s^{-1}PPFD$. After 90 minutes, the PM1, PM10, and $CO_2$ residuals of the Spathiphyllum spp. were lowest at $60{\mu}mol{\cdot}m^{-2}{\cdot}s^{-1}PPFD$. The remaining amount of PM1 and PM10 was lower with the Spathiphyllum spp. than with the Dieffenbachia amoena 'Marianne', even at $0{\mu}mol{\cdot}m^{-2}{\cdot}s^{-1}PPFD$. With both plants, the higher the light intensity, the higher the photosynthetic rate, while the stomatal conductance did not show any significant difference. Spathiphyllum spp. showed a higher photosynthetic rate and stomatal conductance and a greater number of stomata than Dieffenbachia amoena 'Marianne', and stomata were observed in both the front and back sides of the leaves. The air purification effect of Spathiphyllum spp. is considered to be better than Dieffenbachia amoena 'Marianne' at the same light intensity due to such plant characteristics. Therefore, in order to select effective indoor plants for the removal of particulate contamination in an indoor space, the characteristics of plants such as the photosynthetic rate and the number and arrangement of stomata according to indoor light intensity should be considered.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.64-87
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• 2017

Dahoe is a traditional braid in Joseon Dynasty. There are many Dahoe artifacts, which can give us a glimpse of the costume, culture, and life of that era. The study of Dahoe is necessary in various fields, but it is difficult because this manufacturing technique has been passed down from hand to hand. Few studies have been done so far. This research examines the manufacturing technique of KwangDahoe which is passed down by Maedeupjang (Decorative Knotting) and is generally used for knotting and/or tying objects. The main characteristic of TieKwangDahoe, made through the same method as WonDahoe, is the square hole in the middle. It was impossibile to remake the original braid because there is no confirmed number of the strand. Especially it is very difficult to do conservation and restoration on serious degradation state of the fiber. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze the non-destructive manufacturing techniques method for Dahoe and assess their applicability. First, we analyzed the artifacts' manufacturing technique based on the database of the Dahoe's manufacturing technique. In order to do that, we undertook schematization, restoration, morphological analyzation of the Dahoe. And then, X-ray CT scans were performed to improve the reliability of the DB. These results of scanning were interpreted based on the manufacturing technique. The selected Tie-KwangDahoe on the sword for the study are artifacts including artistic value and symbolism in Joseon Dynasty. Based on the analysis of the manufacturing technique, we found that both artifacts were made of 20-strand braid of single cross according to the length-scale measure. It was manufactured using 8-strand on left-right side, 12-strand on front-back side by the braiding manufacturing technique method Finally, this research suggests non-destructive analysis method of Dahoe's manufacturing technique is based on the database and the analysis results. I hope this research can be useful in various professional fields of Dahoe in the future. Moreover, I hope this can be of any help in preserving Korean cultural heritage.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.