• Archives of design research
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.111-122
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• 2003

We must not consider a culture as means of economy. Specially, it is not possible that is supposed to incorporate a cultural identity in a shape of product, but also international competitiveness can not be raised by it. Because an identify is based on the system of symbol such as language, it can be understood only in a same cultural area. While, the value-in-use of technology can be accepted universally as a formative language of international style. Therefore, the competitiveness of design will say as a special quality that can be acquired in connection with technology. For instance, that Korean mobile telephone could be recognized worldwide is not because it has the Koreanized shape but has a high technology. The public have only a superficial understanding about design. Because that is limited in the visual aspect of product, so called 'the pretty design', which exclude the value-in-use and the organic correlation of form and function in general, it may be a cause of socio-ethical dysfunction. It is providing an elbowroom for making a mistake that can regard the product design as an artistic experiment and try to raise the international competitiveness simply with the visual aspect. And the distorted understanding about design has been diffused rapidly owing to spread of black box products because the over-designed shape is known to the public as a proper result of designing. That reorganize the design category will do as a starting point that can get rid of such a misunderstanding, and do to achieve an ideological role of design for human and society. And it will be a warning to the moral slackening that is due to regarding a style as means of competitiveness and the blindness due to thinking culture as means of economy, and we may expect to offer a basic understanding about design which can prevent products from being visualized.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.86-96
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• 2008

General development basis of letter system is recognized by formative value in terms of its function and structure. principle of clustered writing is the most significant feature of Hangeul typography as considered that it is based on function and formativeness. Thus, not only by changes with its form but also by its characteristic syllable combination, space structure is made as consonants and vowels are combined in single letter, then the combination develop into word, sentence, paragraph to make second, third space structure character. This character has significant impact on readability that is core function of typography. With this property, space structure character is regarded as very important component of Hangeul typography. First, space structure character of Hangeul typography is reviewed by relating it to visual perception of gestalt psychology and compared square-framed letter and framed latter By applying square-framed letter and framed latter in same sentence, legibility and readability were studied. Researcher has found that space structure character of Hangeul typography has significant impact on its function, and in terms of future design, it is very critical not only for design but also for communication environment as space structure formativeness of Hangeul typography interact with communication that is basic concept.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.33-45
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• 2003

This is a study that examines the fashion changes in the 20th century in terms of various subcultures in the period. Starting from defining the concept and the developing process of subculture, this study traces the history of subcultural styles from 1930s to 1990s, focusing on the way each generation resisted the main stream through its styles. This study is intended to provide a theoretical frame on the understanding of subcultural styles, with a close examination of its formative and developing process and characteristics. This study understands subcultural style as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. It differentiates itself from the main style by deliberately and publicly asserting its own identity, and, as a result, realizes in the form of fashion its repressed subconsciousness, resistance to the alienation from the society, and deviation from the normative ethics and morality of a society. The four types of subcultural styles presented in chapter 4 are based on their form of resistance, and they are classified and analyzed as follows: The first type is revision, which tries to revise and change the given form by adding new elements. There are two kinds of revision, one is dressing up, which dresses for success, and the other is minimal dressing. Hyperbole is the second type, which resists by emphasizing or hyperbolizing the main stream with its erotic, nihilistic, or dynamic forms. Two kinds of hyperbole are examined, one is hyperbole of masculinity, and the other is ostentatious hyperbole. The third type is reversal and rejection, which reverses the forms from the established sign system into its own secret code, or rejects the traditional taboos. This type include no dressing, and the reversal of sex identity. Isolation and redrawal is the fourth type, which tries to distance itself from the ritual code of the day. This type is divided into dressing of the escape from time, and dressing of the escape from space. The first group of this type is characterized by nostalgia or futurism. An emphasis is given on ethnicity, naturalism, or a closed space within a city in dressing of the escape from space. In conclusion, it can be said that subcultural style puts the foremost importance on individual freedom. Since 1990s, the distinction between the subcultural styles and high fashion gets somewhat blurred, while the liberal, sexual, life stylistic tension between the two groups are heightened.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.225-239
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to look for the basic formative elements of housekeeping space of our cultural life which are worthy to succeed and develop by revaluating in modern view and to reveal what we should maintain form the women's view of the housework in those days. In this study, out look on Chosun Dynasty housekeeping is based on the norm of the women in those days. The research on the housekeeping space for norm of the women in those days. the research on the housekeeping space for Chosun Dynasty upperclass is focused on the house built from early till late Chosun Dynasty, which is now a cultural asset. As a result, norm of Chosun Dynasty have created a social wide atmosphere for women to devote herselves to the housekeeping. Moreover the constructions of Chosun Dynasty's upperclass are affected by Korea's natural environment and socio-cultural environment. Primary factors for natural environment are building materials and the change of seasons. Because of changeable seasons, there were places for storing massive commodities. The other primary factors for socio-cultural environment affecting housekeeping space were social positions, and extended family system, worshipping the ancestors standard of living, the theory of“Poong Soo”(風水, a kind of geomancy) and thought of“Yin and Yang, Five Elements”(陰陽五行) and popular belief of that time. Affected by these two environments, the characteristics of housekeeping space for Chosun Dynasty are ; the main building of the house was used as a diverted area for women to work, and was reconstructed for household affairs. There were inefficient points in the housekeeping space of that time and the space remained stagnant because of the restricted sex and the social position of housekeeping doer. But you could find some points that are efficient and functional to adjust in those living conditions. The storehouse, storage barn, shed and soyjar terrace are the specialized storing place, according to the kinds and characteristics of the commodities. the kitchen, for example, is the combinations of many abilities. It is not only for cooking or heating the room, but also for storing drinking water. The hall which was the storing place, housekeeping place and also the place for family events are used as a diverted place. The linked arrangement of kitchen, store house, boudoir and the other rooms. In addition, we can see that the construction of the kitchen for more than tow people could work in.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.104-112
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• 2021

In this study, emotional analysis was conducted based on the basic attribute data of music and the emotional model in psychology, and the result was applied to the visualization rules in the formative arts. In the existing studies using musical parameter, there were many cases with more practical purposes to classify, search, and recommend music for people. In this study, the focus was on enabling sound data to be used as a material for creating artworks and used for aesthetic expression. In order to study the music visualization as an art form, a method that can include human emotions should be designed, which is the characteristics of the arts itself. Therefore, a well-structured basic classification of musical attributes and a classification system on emotions were provided. Also, through the shape, color, and animation of the visual elements, the visualization of the musical elements was performed by reflecting the subdivided input parameters based on emotions. This study can be used as basic data for artists who explore a field of music visualization, and the analysis method and work results for matching emotion-based music components and visualizations will be the basis for automated visualization by artificial intelligence in the future.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.10
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• pp.183-218
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• 2006

Colors change in time corresponding with the value system and aesthetic consciousness of the time. The roles that colors play in painting can be divided into the formative role based on the contrast and harmony of color planes and the aesthetic role expressed by colors to represent the objects. The aesthetic consciousness of the orient starts with the Civility(禮) and Pleasure(樂), which is closely related with restrained or tempered human feelings. In the art world of the orient including poem, painting, and music, what are seen and felt from the objects are not represented in all. Added by the sentiment laid background, the beauty of the orient emphasizes the beauty of restraint and temperance, which has long been the essential aesthetic emotion of the orient. From the very inception of oriental painting, colors had become a symbolic system in which the five colors associated with the philosophy of Yin and Yang and Five Forces were symbolically connected with the four sacred animals of Red Peacock, Black Turtle, Blue Dragon, and White Tiger. In this color system the use of colors was not free from ideological matters, and was further constrained by the limited color production and distribution. Therefore, development in color expression seemed to have been very much limited because of the unavailability and unreadiness of various colors. Studies into the flow in oriental painting show that color expression in oriental painting have changed from symbolic color expression to poetic expression, and then to emotional color expression as the mode of painting changes in time. As oriental painting transformed from the art of religious or ceremonial purpose to one of appreciation, the mast visible change in color expression is the one of realism(simulation). Rooted on the naturalistic color expression of the orient where the fundamental properties of objects were considered mast critical, this realistic color expression depicts the genuine color properties that the objects posses, with many examples in the Flower & Bird Painting prior to the North Sung dynasty. This realistic expression of colors changed as poetic sentiments were fused with painting in later years of the North Sung dynasty, in which a conversion to light ink and light coloring in the use of ink and colors was witnessed, and subjective emotion was intervened and represented. This mode of color expression had established as free and creative coloring with vivid expression of individuality. The fusion of coloring and lyricism was borrowed from the trend in painting after the North Sung dynasty which was mentioned earlier, and from the trend in which painting was fused with poetic sentiments to express the emotion of artists, accompanied with such features as light coloring and compositional change. Here, the lyricism refers to the artist's subjective perspective of the world and expression of it in refined words with certain rhythm, the essence of which is the integration of the artist's ego and the world. The poetic ego projects the emotion and sentiment toward the external objects or assimilates them in order to express the emotion and sentiment of one's own ego in depth and most efficiently. This is closely related with the rationale behind the long-standing tradition of continuous representation of same objects in oriental painting from ancient times to contemporary days. According to the thoughts of the orient, nature was not just an object of expression, but recognized as a personified body, to which the artist projects his or her emotions. The result is the rebirth of meaning in painting, completely different from what the same objects previously represented. This process helps achieve the integration and unity between the objects and the ego. Therefore, this paper discussed the lyrical expression of colors in the works of the author, drawing upon the poetic expression method reflected in the traditional Flower and Bird Painting, one of the painting modes mainly depending on color expression. Based on the related discussion and analysis, it was possible to identify the deep thoughts and the distinctive expression methods of the orient and to address the significance to prioritize the issue of transmission and development of these precious traditions, which will constitute the main identity of the author's future work.

• Archives of design research
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.89-98
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• 2004

A systemic approach to behavior on the basis of human psychology is needed for behavior-centered space design. Also, the recognition that human and environment, in all, have complementarity is needed- human and space shall be understood as a general phenomenon, supposing interaction. Design of behavior-oriented space means configuration and coordination of physical subjects as well as understanding, analysis and reflection of psychological and behavioral phenomena. It is analysis of a private individual as well as understanding of interaction between human groups, as well. In respect of space recognition, analysis not on material movement but on energy circulation and variable is important. It means that the understanding of user's behavior and psychology does not orient reasonable purpose just for convenience. That is, such understanding intends to understand behavioral patterns and psychological phenomena between space and human beyond the decomposition of structure of human and space into physical elements and the design based on standardized data. Thereby, more human-oriented space design might be implemented by the understanding of behavioral essence. Also, a user-centered design process from another viewpoint might be created, and the general amenity among man, space and environment - better environmental quality - might be produced. For this, the consciousness of human activity that is, activity system shall be ahead of it, and the approaches for design shall be implemented into a process not in predictive ideas but in semi-scientific system. On the basis of the above view, this study was attempted to investigate the orientation of design to recognize space as another life, and explore a process where it is drawn into a design language on the basis of human behavior. If the essence of space behavior and the activity system are analyzed through user observation and it is reflected upon a space design program and then developed into a formative language, a new design process on human and environment might be produced. In conclusion, the reflection of user's behavior and psychology into design, contrary to existing public space design based on physical data, can orient quality improvement of human life and ultimately be helpful to the proposition, 'humanization of space'.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.180-203
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• 2020

In this study, the period before the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits was expressed in the acheongsaek-Heuk-Danryung was defined as the first period, and the costumes worn in portraits of meritorious vassals from Gaeguk (1392) in the early Joseon Dynasty to Jwali (1471) during the era of King Seongjong were reviewed. The portraits(1476) of Jeokgae meritorious vassals (1467) depicted as the Gwanbok of acheongsaek Heuk-Danryung were excluded. Among the copies that are currently considered to be portraits of meritorious vassals belonging to the first period, the portraits of Lee-je, Lee Cheon-woo, Ma Cheon-mok, Shin Suk-ju, Seol Gye-jo, and Lee Sung-won were selected, and the formative characteristics of Gwanbok components were examined. The Samo of Sam-Gongsin in the early Joseon Dynasty had a low height, a rounded end, and the side wings were narrow and short. However, since King Danjong, Jeongnan·Jwali meritorious vassals retained a higher form, and the side wings were twice as long. It was also confirmed that the pattern was not expressed in the side wings. The Danryung was expressed in light-colored Danryung without specific colors at the beginning of the country. After King Sejong, the Heuk-Danryung system for Yebok began, but it was not reflected in the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits, and was expressed as damhongsaek-Danryung after King Danjong. The pattern was not expressed on the exterior of the Danryung, and inner-wrinkled Mu was expressed on the side line. The Dapho and Cheolrik, the undergarments of the Danryung, were also confirmed as being blue (the Dapho) and green (the Cheolrik) after the Jeongnan meritorious vassals. The early Sam-Gongsin's Pumgye was expressed by rank belt, but as the system of rank badge was established after King Danjong, it began to express the Pumgye by rank badge and rank belt. Among the portraits of meritorious vassals, the rank badge was expressed only in the portrait of Sin Suk-ju, a Jeongnan meritorious vassal. As Hwaja worn on the Danryung, Heuk-hwa were confirmed in the Sam-Gongsin portraits of the early Joseon Dynasty. However, in the portraits of Jeongnan and Jwali meritorious vassals after King Danjong, the Baek-hwa was confirmed. In addition, in the seam parts of the Heuk-hwa and Baek-hwa identified in some portraits of meritorious vassals, Hwi decorated with yeongeumsa were identified, and it was found that the Hwaja decorated with Hwi were the Hyeopgeum-hwa worn by the 3rd rank and above.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.2
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• pp.146-165
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to identify differences in the formative characteristics and system of Jobok by comparing the three relics Ui, Sang, and Daedae, which comprised Jeon-Sik's Jobok, with the data in the literature and five excavated Jobok relics, Sin Kyung-yu, Kwon-Woo, Hwasan-Gun, Milchang-Gun, and Lee Ik-jeong, from the 17th and 18th centuries. Jeon-Sik'sJobok was designated as a Gyeongbuk tangible cultural heritage, Sangju JeonSik Jobok and Crafts, in 2021. The three components of Jeon-Sik's Jobok are valuable as historical data since they are the oldest relics confirming colors. Regrettably, the edging fabric of the Ui made of red twill was mostly lost, with only traces remaining. Based on records, it was presumed that the edging fabric was black. It was confirmed that white decorative lines were yet to be used. In Jeon Sik's Sang, only the three front widths and one rear width remain, but the shape of the four rear widths can be inferred, and the creases were held only at the waist. Eighteenth-century Sang was connected at intervals at the end of the waist. Seventeenth-century Sang was connected with a slight overlapping of the rear Sang below the front Sang; therefore, it is assumed that Jeon Sik's Sang was also connected by overlapping the rear by more or less than 5cm below the front. After Hwasan-gun, the Sang was first made using black lines, then white lines were inserted, and, finally, it was pleated from the waist to the hem. The Daedae made the Yo and the Sin by folding the corners to form a 冂 shape with a single long band. The white Ju(紬) and the green yumunsa were used for the Daedae and the edges. This matches the color of the Daedae seen in the Jobok portraits of Milchang-gun, Lee Ik-jeong, and Jeong Hwi-ryang from the 18th century. In the 17th century, the Daedae made the Yo and the Sin by folding a long band like the Daedae of Jeon-Sik. After the 18th century, the Yo and the Sin were made separately and connected. To tie the Daedae to the waist, thin straps were attached at both ends. The relics of Jeon-Sik can be evaluated as reflecting the 17th-century Jobok system in terms of color and shape. Furthermore, it can be said that they are important historical data complementing the insufficient or inaccurate records of the Gukjoolyeui-seolye and Gyeongguk-daejeon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.111-131
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• 1992

This thesis was designed to study Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments. Chinese who regarded the life of human beings as the combination of heaven and earth considered garments as the traditional product of the movement of nature. Accordingly, they thought human beings are the center of the universe composed by heaven and earth and the chief of all things; therefore man only can utilize clothes to distinguish from all of the colours. This views of clothes led to the development of liturgical vestments esteemed courtesy than anything else, especially the thought of courtesy associated with Conficius who regarded courtesy as the highest things and since then the theory of Five Elements and courtesy were inherited by all the adherents of Conficius. Yin and Yang Five Elements in the liturgical vestments was given absolute symbolics in both formative side and in colourful side. results of research studied in this was can be summed up as follows : 1. The crown of rites was made imitating after the system of head, horn, beard, bread of birds and beasts and that form of crown is front-circ-ular and back-rectangular meant to be towards light and dark. That the upper part of faceplace is black represented the way of heaven and lower part of red symbolized the way of earth. 2. Upper vestment of liturgical rites symbolizes heaven and outskirt represented earth. So front of outskirt is YANG and back is Yin. It is why then are going to harmonize positive and negative making front part three width and back part four width. Therefore, emperor who symbolizes heaven made the subjects recognize high and low and wore Dae-gu(大 ), Kon-bok(袞服), Bel-bok, Chui-bok, and Hyonbok according to the object and position of rites so that he may rule the country based on courtesy. 3. As an accessory of liturgical vestments, Bul, Pae-ok, Su, Dae-dai, Hyok-Dai, Kyu, and Hol were used. Before Bul was used man dressed skirt as the first waist-dress in order to conceal intimate part of the body. Pae-ok, as decoration blended with jade was worn by men of virtue, so men of virtue symbolized morality and virtue by Pae-ok. Su began from Yeok, connected with Pae-su , in Chou-dynasty is said to be originated by practical needs and they are divided into large Su and small su, and maintained as decoration to signify the class positions. Dae-dai did the work as not to loose the liturgical vestments and leather belt hang Bul and Su to begin as the function of practical use are in later years it became decoration to symboliz e the class position. Kyu was a jade used when empeor nominated feudal lords and observe ceremony to God and Hol, was held in hands to record everything not to forget. These Kyu and Hol became to offer courtesy during the time of rites and in later years it became used according to class position rather than practical use. 4. As far as colours are concerned, colours based by five colours according to YIN-YANG Five Elements theory and they were divided into a primary colour and a secondary colours. Primary colours corresponded with the theory of Five Elements each other, Blue, Red, Tellow, White, and Black symbolized ive Elements, five hour space, five directions, and five emperors. Secondary colours contradict with Blue, Red, Yellow, White and Black and another as a primary colour and they are Green, Scaret, Indigo, Violet, Hun colour, Chu colour, and Chi colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour as primary colour and outskirt was used Hun colour as secondary colours. Thus symbolism in chinese liturgical vestments mainly began with heaven and earth and corresponded with YIN-YANG Five Elements Scool. They were developed as the scholary theory and Conficius and his followers in the later days and continued up to Min-dynasty.