• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.749-758
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• 2017

The purpose of the present study is to develop a grading deviation, which is appropriate for the body type of women in thirties, by analyzing the three-dimensional body type. The materials for the study were adopted from the body measurement data of women in the age group of 30 to 39 years old, provided from Size Korea. By reflecting the factor analysis results using the three-dimensional shape measurement, deviations were derived. First, six factors influencing the changes in human body shape were derived as waist-hip length factor, bust-waist shape factor, back protrusion back shoulder factor, bust length factor, shoulder length factor, and frontal waist dart factor. The bust size and height, which can be easily utilized for the top original grading, were used for deriving a regression formula, and the deviation was set in accordance with the result. Second, by applying the deviation which reflects the changes in the body shape, the crimps which were generated due to the application of existing deviation were remarkably reduced, indicating that the grading of the present study is more fitting than the existing one. The deviation derived by the analysis of actual increase and decrease of body size was more fitting than the existing one. This was proved by actual wearing experiment, which represents the significance of this study.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.19-30
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to overview the periodical changes of the fastenings, from the pins and buttons in ancient age to the velcro in these days, and to study the relationships of these various fastenings to the costume types, and also to research how it is applied to the latest fashion. The fastening is closely related to the costume types, being various in its form, like pins, fibula, brooches, buttons, lacing, points, hooks & eyes, press studs, zipper and velcro. It is clear from the fact that the fastenings have developed remarkably since 13th century when the costume became tightly fitting to the body, while the fastenings had been very simple, like buttons or fibula, for so long time from the ancient time to the 12th century. The end of fastening's development is to be fitting to the body and to make it easy to take on or off the costumes by use of it. In '99 S/S, '99-00 A/W $pr{\hat{e}t}-{\grave{a}}$-porter collections, ornamental fastening was more emphasized then practical one, probably due to the development of more stretchable fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.44-56
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• 2007

The aim of this study is to provide fundamental data on the development of dress shirts pattern appropriate for the body types of athletes. The research subjects are 257 athletes from wrestling, bodybuilding, weight lifting, Judo, canoe, rowing. In regards to the category used in the measurement of bust somatotype, there are 48 types directly measured, 4 types indirectly measured, 7 types calculated and 1 bodyweight of type, making it 60 categories in total. The bust somatotype of a sports athlete and general person were compared together and after examining the characteristics of the bust somatotype, the somatotype of sports athlete was divided according to drop. The results of the study are as follows: 1. Questionnaire Results of the questionnaire showed that 63.4% of the respondents chose dress shirt as the most uncomfortable upper garment for athletes. And as for the result of the most uncomfortable body part turned out to be 'the neck is tight'. 2. Somatotype Analysis Results of direct, indirect measurement and the average somatotype of 97 National standard physique were compared. The characteristics of somatotype of athletes with well-developed upper body are that they are taller and have longer upper body and arms than the general person. And also the width of the trunk is wider, the girth bigger and the waist measure relatively slimmer. Looking at sports by category, it we could see that wrestlers were the largest neck parameter and width. Bodybuilders were the largest body parts for most categories. Weight lifting and Judo athletes were the largest waist and buttock. Canoe and rowing athletes were the largest height and arm parts. Dividing the somatotype of athletes according to drop, 72.8% of the research group belonged to the body type that resembled the letter Y.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권9호
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• pp.17-29
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• 2003

The objective of this study is to investigate the fit preference tendency for ready-to-wears(jackets, skirts, and slacks) of adult women and to find out the respective differences by the age range and the obesity level. The study method was the questionnaire survey with the subjects of 699 women of 20 up to 59 years of age. The questionnaire is composed of fit preference tendency, physical measurements, age, and occupation. For the data analysis, SPSS 90. program was used, and descriptive statistics, Crosstabs, ANOVA, Duncan's test, and t-test were conducted. The findings are as follows. 1. Regarding the fit preferred for each part of jackets, skirts, and slacks, among ready-to-wears, the 'thing with some extra width' in every part was most favored, followed by the 'thing fitting perfectly'. 2. The differences were found in the fit preference tendency by the age of adult women. The fit preference tendency was higher among those in their 20's than among those of the other age range, and those in their 30's and 40's preferred the clothes with less extra width in comparison with those in their 50's. 3. The differences were also found in the fit preference tendency by the obesity level of adult women. The fit preference tendency was high in the order of the emaciation, normalcy, and obesity types. 4. The fit preference tendency was found to be more affected by the obesity level than by the age. The fit preference tendency by the obesity level of each age range showed the differences in all of the age range. However, the normal type did not show the preference difference among the age ranges, in the fit preference tendency by the age range of each obesity level. Clothing manufacturing firms should understand the characteristics of consumers, such as their age, body type, extra width preferred, to provide the consumers of target market with suitable leeway, and they should design the clothing products which meet up these needs in style and silhouette.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.1034-1044
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• 2016

This study seeks a method to objectively evaluate sensibility based on Big Data in the field of design. In order to do so, this study examined the sensibility responses on design factors for the public through a network analysis of texts displayed in social media. 'Hanbok', a formal clothing that represents Korea, was selected as the subject for the research methodology. We then collected 47,677 keywords related to Hanbok from 12,000 posts on Naver blogs from January $1^{st}$ to December $31^{st}$ 2015 and that analyzed using social matrix (a Big Data analysis software) rather than using previous survey methods. We also derived 56 key-words related to design elements and sensibility responses of Hanbok. Centrality analysis and CONCOR analysis were conducted using Ucinet6. The visualization of the network text analysis allowed the categorization of the main design factors of Hanbok with evaluation terms that mean positive, negative, and neutral sensibility responses. We also derived key evaluation factors for Hanbok as fitting, rationality, trend, and uniqueness. The evaluation terms extracted based on natural language processing technologies of atypical data have validity as a scale for evaluation and are expected to be suitable for utilization in an index for sensibility evaluation that supplements the limits of previous surveys and statistical analysis methods. The network text analysis method used in this study provides new guidelines for the use of Big Data involving sensibility evaluation methods in the field of design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.57-67
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• 1984

The purpose of this study is to develop a devided skist Pattern drafting method for Korean Women between the ages of 18$\~$24 on the basis of their physical characteristics which differs from those of other races in its size and figure. The study procednras are as follows : 1, A new devided skirt pattern drafting method is developed based on the results of draping to find the essential measuring items for devided skirt construction, 27 items of KAIST measurement data analysis to establish representative and independent items and fitting tests. 2. To establish fittness and comfort in the new pattern comparing it with in a conventional one, asensory evaluation is applied. According to the statistical analysis of the results of the sensory evaluation, the findings are as followings ; 1. Composite reliability coefficient is 0.68. 2. Qut of 30 items, 25 items for fittness show significant differences (pp$\leqq$0.05, p$\leqq$0.01, P$\leqq$0.001) between the two, with the new pattern better fitted, presenting a pleasing appearance in hormony with the figure and contributing to the wearer's sense of wellbeing. 3. Hip crotch and hem dimensions for comfort show significant differences (p$\leqq$0.05) between the two, with the new pattern more comfortable, but no significant difference is showed between the two in activity variable. 4. The new pattern drafting method is shown in figuke 4.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.569-580
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• 2015

The recent fashion market failed to satisfy the needs of female customers in their 30s who are demanding a slim jacket that makes the wearer look young and slim. Accordingly, the slim-fit jackets of domestic brands targeting the women in their 30s were collected to conduct look and movement fitting evaluations based on the standard somatotype, and a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype was developed based on the present findings. This research aims to increase the satisfaction level of the slim-fit jacket customers reflecting a variety of somatotypes of women in their 30s. The research process was developing jacket patterns fully reflecting the properties in terms of extra space and design lines for different somatotypes of women in their 30s based on the jacket pattern formulated through the advanced research, and then suggesting pattern design methods for the different somatotypes. In this sense, this research attempted to identify the problems concerning the slim-fit tailored jacket fitting for different somatotypes of women in their 30s. The main aim was to suggest ways to improve the customers' satisfaction level regarding the fit, and enable the manufacturers to produce a well-fitting jacket reflecting the peculiarities of each somatotype.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.975-988
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• 2012

Although the pattern development for tight-fitting clothing has been carried out using 3D data on humans, the pattern development using 3D scan data obtained for various postures still remains an interesting subject. In this study, we have developed the 2D pattern using the 3D human body reflecting standing and cycling postures. The 3D scan data of a subject was obtained using Cyberware. 2C-AN program(Triangle simplification and the Runge-Kutta method) was used in the system to reduce the 3D scan data points and to make segmented triangular patches in a plane from 3D data. As results, surface distance and area of each body part of standing and cycling postures were also provided for the future application of the functional clothing construction. The area of center piece on the front (c.front) decreased by $106.45cm^2$(-13.08%) and that of lateral piece(s.back) on the back increased by $144.96cm^2$(18.69%) in the patterns of cycling posture. The girth of neck and waist for the cycling posture increased by 0.88cm (3.92%) and 1.56cm(4.40%) respectively, and the that of thigh decreased by 1.01cm(-2.24%). The differences between the area in the 2D pattern obtained from the 3D scan data and that in the 3D scan surface data for standing and cycling postures were very small($-10.34cm^2$(-0.32%) and $-44.33cm^2$(-1.32%)).

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2017

The purposes of this study was to study Turkic clothing traditions as a way to shed light on cultural development via the interactions among different tribes along the Silk Road, the close correlations between the surroundings of the Turks and their costumes, and the root of Turkic culture through literature studies and empirical studies. The study results are as follows. First, the Turks were nomadic equestrian tribes in the north that dominated the cold dry steppes from the $6^{th}$ to $8^{th}$ century A.D., when they expanded their influence to Dongbei, China to the east, and Turkistan (Central Asia) to the west. The Turks formed a nomadic lifestyle and culture suited to a cold dry climate, and interacted with various other tribes via the Silk Road, while exchanging and sharing different cultural aspects. Second, given that the Turkic garments constitute a two-piece style, which is a category of the basic nomadic costume of northern tribes, and that the artifact materials manifest jackets, overcoats, pants and skirts, the garments are categorized into tops and bottoms. The tops are sub-categorized into jackets and overcoats. The bottoms are sub-categorized into pants and skirts. In light of the necklines of tops, jackets have round necklines, while overcoats have V-necklines, round necklines and lapel collars. The bottoms include narrow-legged pants, wide-legged pants and closed-hem pants. Drapery skirts are worn at the waist. Third, the Turkic V-neckline overcoat is comparable to the Huns' silk overcoat, which illustrates the ethnic link between the two tribes. Also, the Turkic narrow- and wide-legged pants are consistent with the Huns' silk pants discovered in Noin Ula. The Turkic costumes are mostly tight fitting, suitable for the nomadic lifestyle in a cold, dry climate. Also, additional patches must be attached to the crotch points of pants due to the equestrian lifestyle.