• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.828-841
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• 2022

This study aims to develop a fitted torso pattern suitable for males in their forties and fifties who are obese-a group that accounts for more than fifty percent of men in this age group-using a 3D virtual fitting program. Size Korea's 2022 data for obese males in their forties and fifties is utilized for this study. In terms of the research method, a 3D program (CLO 3D) is used to implement the target group's various body types and to apply fitted torsos that enable verification and evaluation of the pattern's fit and ease. The characteristics of fitted torso patterns for obese bodies are as follows: the front centerline is a profile line; shoulder darts are added by reflecting waist-abdominal protrusion in the front panel; and shoulder, arm, waist, and center-back darts are constructed for the back panel. For obese bodies, the minimum circumference ease amounts should be approximately 6-7cm for the chest, 6cm for the waist, and 6-7cm for the hips. Based on an evaluation of the virtual fit of the developed fitted torso pattern, the data shows that a pattern (foundation) such as this is well suited for obese body types with an average of 4.67/5 points for reverse triangular obesity, an average of 6.67/7 points for log obesity, and an average of 6.69 points for the ease amount.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1454-1465
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• 2011

Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men's body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men's data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men's body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men's body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.94-103
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to make activated electronic business transaction of clothes. The subject used for this study was 19 - 24 aged 149 college women who most likely buying products through internet. By compare the 149 women's body shape with 3D model, 149 women could be judged their body shape objectively. We showed the average 3D model by the measurement of 19 - 24aged women's body shape. 19 - 24aged women are big customer of internet shopping mall. By understanding of the difference between real somatotype and perceptual somatotype, we can reduce the disadvantage such as returning clothes. Also, imaginary fitting model can be used for internet shopping mall, animation work, fashion show, and advertisement work. Therefore, we can expect the worth of this study to do.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.153-171
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• 2016

With the advent of smart clothing for health care and sports, the sophisticated designs with curved seams are drawing attention. One of the problems in those clothing is to determine the design curves in 2D pattern, such that it corresponds to the lines on the intended 3D body. Moreover, the difficulty increases when the original pattern needs to be changed for various sizes and body types. We compare two methods of pattern enlargement in this paper: one is the offset/projection type, and the other is the split grading type. For the enlarged pattern with offset/projection type, the 3D surface offset was first adopted to transform the standard lower body to the target larger size; next, the design lines were projected to the new 3D surface, following which the 3D pattern was developed from the newly transformed 3D surface. In the second method, the enlarged pant patterns were developed by the split grading method. Here, a 3D pattern was developed from the initial body, and then enlarged to the target size by the conventional split grading method. Two feminine pants patterns were examined by 3D virtual fitting. We observed that the 3D offset/projection pants pattern was well fitted, having an evenly distributed surplus, as compared with the sample developed using the split grading method. The difference between the two patterns were apparent at the location where several curved lines merged.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.1143-1154
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• 2001

This research aimed to examine consumer's expectancy disconformation related to purchase satisfaction/dissatisfaction and post-purchase behavior in cable TV home shopping. A total of 700 questionnaires were randomly sent to cable TV home shoppers and 172 copies were used in final analysis. Frequency analysis. correlation analysis, analysis of variance, regression analysis, path analysis, and multinominal logit were used. The expectancy discoformation on \"fitting\" and \"how well the clothes suits oneself\" were significantly related to the complaint behavior of return and refund. TV home shoppers tended to express their complaints by requesting the home shopping company or the manufacture company for a compensation rather than express privately such as warning friends, stop buying and boycotting the item. The significant variables that would influence consumers to seek refund rather than exchange were purchase satisfaction, request of compensation to the company, overall expectancy disconformation and expectancy disconformation on decoration and details and suiting oneself.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.367-380
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• 2002

This study tries to search and analyze empirically the clothing merchandise purchase motivation and behavior made by foreign visitors who bought clothes as tour memorials in South Korea. To make a empirical study we made survey research and evaluated 30 items for the survey of clothing purchase motivation and 25 items for the survey of the importance and satisfaction revealed at the time of purchase with the standard of Likert 5 point. We had chosen 614 sample participants including 176 English speakers, 211 Japanese speakers, and 277 Chinese speakers among those foreign tourists who had purchased clothing materials at the Dongdaemun Shopping Mall. The result of analysis is as follows : As the result of factor analysis about the clothing merchandise purchase, we had 6 factors. They are (1)impulse, (2)utility, (3)fashionableness, (4)tour commemoration (5)psychology (6)economy. As the result of cluster analysis based on the standard of selected 6 factors of clothing merchandise purchase motivation, we could divide three groups such as (1)the pursuit type of clothing merchandise purchase, (2)the pursuit type of recreation of feeling (3)the pursuit type of tour memorial. As the result of analysis on the items of purchased clothing merchandise, the highest frequency of purchase was made by T-shirt, then by the order of sweater, blouse, and aloha shirt, pants, and jacket. In regard to the importance of items related to clothing merchandise, the highest importance was made by design, then by the order of price, size, color and utility, and style. In regard to the items related to the service of shopping mall, the highest satisfaction was made by the convenience of business hour. Meanwhile, the lowest satisfaction was made by the inconvenience of fitting room, the speaking and by ability of foreign languages by sales agents.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.30-37
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• 2003

The most distinctive feature of the costumes of the Arctic regions from Alaska to Siberia centering around the Bering Sea connecting Asia to North America, is that each tribe makes clothes adequate to the climate and their lifestyles with animal hides obtained from hunting in their habitation. Furs or fish skins, the main materials for clothing, are characteristically cut into many pieces, and thus piece-joining patchwork is used to make or decorate garments. Patchwork is the technique that can create new designs with 3-dimensional and various combinations by modifying the simple materials, and also has the advantage of fitting the body without a certain cut line. Therefore, the patchwork found in the Arctic costumes may be developed from folk costume designs with limited materials like fur into new ones for modern or future costumes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.624-634
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop the pattern of safety clothes used at flat or mountainous areas and to identify the pattern of safety clothes by conducting experimental evaluation of virtual wear. Three subjects were selected, based on fire fighters' physical constitution. A prototype design for safety clothing was determined after in-depth interviewing of professionals and surveying of Forest service staff and related agency. Wearing test should be carried out in the order of pattern making, virtual and real wearing evaluation. For data analysis, technical statistical values should be obtained by using body measurements of subject, frequency analysis and T-test. The jacket is designed to have a front extension and the entire length of clothing enough for wearer to put on it over ordinary shirts or sweater. The collar of jacket is of round type. Cyber reality enables to identify the movement and activity of virtual fitting model and to find out errors or problems in safety clothing prior to on-the-spot wear test, thus raising the precision level of pattern. There was significant difference between real and virtual fit preference. The results show that the virtual try-on system need the development of a specific style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.1 s.26
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• pp.93-114
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• 1988

The purpose of this study was to develop pattern drafting methods of bodice, sleeve and skirt for Korean women at the age of 18 to 34. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. 305 women aged 18 to 34 were measured on 49 items. 56 items including 49 measured and 7 calculated items were analyzed statistically. 2. New pattern drafting methods were developed based on the results of the data analysis. Basic shells constructed from the patterns were examined through fitting tests for completion. 3. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new pattern for women by comparing it with one of the most used conventional patterns. An original rating scale was developed and used for the evaluation. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 53 items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference ($\alpha{\leqq}0.01$ or $\alpha{\leqq}0.05$) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted at all 53 items, and to be comfortable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.17-26
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• 1985

The purpose of this study is to develop a bodice pattern drafting method for Korean elderly women over sixty years old on the basis of their physical characteristics which differ from those of adult women. The study is composed as follows; 1. One hundred and five elderly women were measured on 20 items. Twenty-five items including 20 measured items and 5 calculated items were analyzed statistically. 2. A new method was developed based on the results of data analysis. Basic shells constructed from the patterns were examined through three fitting tests for completion. 3. The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern for elderly women by comparing it with the conventional pattern for adult women. A five-point rating scale was developed for the evaluation. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant differences (a$\leqq$0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores.