• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.1191-1204
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• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.789-795
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.28-41
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• 2015

Properties of textile fabrics influence the appearance, aesthetics, and performance of garment. Drape and related properties of fabrics affect profoundly the static and dynamic appearance during wearer's movement. The three dimensional shape of the folded structure often deforms with time or with subtle vibration around the fabric specimen during the drape measurement. Due to the uneven and complex nature of fabrics, the overall shape of the fabric specimen on the drape tester often becomes unstable. There is a need to understand the fundamental mechanisms of how draping may generate pleasing forms. Two drape test methods, conventional Cusick drape test, and in-built drape tester, based on a depth camera, are compared. Fabric specimens including cotton, linen, silk, wool, polyester, and rayon are investigated for the fabric drape and other physical/mechanical parameters. Drape coefficient values of fabric specimens are compared based on the final drape images, together with the intermediate 3D drape images of the specimens during elevation process of the drape tester equipped with a stepper motor system. The correlation coefficient between the data based on the two methods is reasonably high. Another advantage from the depth camera system is that it allows further analysis of three-dimensional information regarding the fabric drape shape, including the shape of nodes or crest and trough.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.113-125
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• 2021

This study aimed to develop a new Hanbok Jeogori prototype based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Jeogori. This study was conducted based on K-patterns selected as excellent patterns in prior research and utilized the SPSS 27.0 program for analysis of appearance evaluation. As a result of the first appearance evaluation and garment pressure evaluation, the shoulder area was required to be modified, so the shoulder end point was moved within 1cm to rearrange the armhole line. Modification of sleeve length and circumference was also required, reducing sleeve length by 1.5cm and sleeve circumference by 0.5cm at both ends. As a result of the second evaluation, the length of Jeogori, hem circumference, and sleeve length were required, reducing the length of the front and back Jeogori by 1 cm and reducing the sleeve length by 1cm. The hem circumference was reduced by 0.2cm each in the princess line, which was highly evaluated in the final evaluation. In future research, it is thought that pattern studies by material, length, and age should be conducted and corrections should be derived through actual wear experiments.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.125-137
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• 2021

This study was intended to develop a prototype of new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece. Through this, it was intended to provide information on patterns that are fundamental to the production of new Hanbok Cheollik one piece. The pattern of the experiment was produced by modifying D pattern, which was selected as excellent in the comparison of commercial Cheollik one-piece patterns. The SPSS 26.0 program was used to analyze the appearance evaluation of patterns. As a result of the 1^st evaluation of appearance and garment pressure, the shoulder, sleeve length, skirt length and sleeve width required modification, reducing the sleeve length by 8.0cm and the sleeve width by 1.0cm in total. The length of the skirt was reduced by 5.0cm and the shoulder end point was reduced by 0.5cm on both sides to modify the shoulder width. As a result of the 2^nd evaluation, the waist area, sleeve width, and skirt wrinkles were required to be corrected, reducing 2.0 cm waist width and 1.0 cm sleeve width and removing wrinkles on the front center and side area. The final pattern was highly appreciated. In future studies, it is thought that research should be conducted through study of Cheollik one-piece pattern according to material and age and the actual wearing experiment according to fabric and age.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.99-110
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• 2022

This study attempted to develop a bodice prototype that is the basis for the production of upper body clothing for 20s plus-size women who have distinct characteristics from women with general body types. Through this, it was intended to provide basic data necessary for the development of plus-size women's clothing, which is revitalizing the market due to the increase in the obese population. Through the first evaluation of appearance and abdominal pressure, patterns such as moving the side neck, adding the amount of armhole dart, and adding the amount of sagging were modified. Through the second evaluation, corrections such as vertical side lines, reduction of the neck of the back center line, and adding the amount of armhole darts were performed. Through the third evaluation, the final pattern drafting method was developed by vertically modifying the side line and adding the amount of back armhole darts. In the case of 20s plus-size female body types, a drafting method distinguished from the general body type was required in the method of setting the side and hem due to the protrusion of the abdomen. This study can be said to be meaningful in that it proposed a bodice prototype drafting method suitable for the body type of 20s plus-size women. In the follow-up study, it is thought that the wearability should be evaluated through actual garment wearing.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.95-107
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• 2022

This study attempted to develop a bodice prototype suitable for the 20's obese male's trunk with a BMI of 25kg/m² or more, which is distinguished from the standard body type. Through this, it was intended to provide data to help the development of clothing for obese males. Patterns such as front bodice shoulder line and front sagging were modified through primary appearance and garment pressure evaluation. Through the second evaluation, corrections such as back armhole, back waistline, and front sagging were performed. Through the third evaluation, the final pattern drafting method was developed by removing the front sagging added through the second evaluation. In the case of obese male body types in their 20s, a drafting method distinguished from the standard body type was required in the method of setting the front and back waist lines, back armhole darts, and front shoulder lines due to protruding and posture of the abdomen. This study was meaningful in that it presented a bodice prototype drafting method suitable for the 20s obese males. In the follow-up study, it is thought that actual clothing experiments and studies to develop clothing patterns by applying them to obese male tops in their 20s should be conducted.