• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.591-596
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• 2006

In order to analyze the tailorbility of different fabrics for men's suit, FAST system has been used for measuring the distribution of mechanical properties in this study. As results, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics showed the minimum degree in relaxation shrinkage, formability, and shear rigidity than any other fabrics, and also showed more than 6% as maximum level of extensibility. Thus, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics requires careful tailoring in lay-out, marking, and cutting. It is necessary to establish new tailoring criteria for automatic sewing with cashmere mixed woolen fabrics than any other fabrics, because they show more failure rate of tailorbility. There have been noticeably more variation of shrinkage and extension for woolen fabrics with cashmere mixed than 100% woolen fabrics by evaluating the formability of the suits when these are completed to suits through cutting and tailoring from fabrics. Especially nylon mixed woolen fabrics showed shrinkage overall, but polyester mixed woolen fabrics showed extension at waist area. Thus, it is necessary to adjust the appropriate overfeed rate considering the amount of shrinkage and extension while tailoring.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.139-150
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• 2013

Fast fashion companies have generated enormous amounts of clothing and large quantities of unsold or short-lived clothing end up in the landfill. As if to counter fast fashion, sustainable fashion has arisen for environmentally friendly garments at different levels from the fiber stage to production stage. However it is still fraught with uncertainty of systems in the industry. Therefore, this study proposed a system to create re-valued clothing from recycled garments for retailers. The target companies are large-sized retailers like Levi's, Polo, Gap, or J-Crew which are consistently producing basic items such as Levi's 501 or Classic Polo shirts with middle-prices. At the material stage, this study recommended additional requirements of designing a garment with a long life cycle based on criteria of an ideal garment developed by Patagonia clothing company. Then, this study explored innovative ways that retailers might connect with consumers to allow direct interaction between them in terms of the process of collecting used clothes. Using recycled clothing as a source material, this study strove to offer a process of redesign where the concept of 'waste to fashion' is developed as reconstructions where old forms are transformed into new ones.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.781-788
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• 2010

To work in the fashion industry which has entered the digital age, and in specialization and high-industrialization age, one needs to attain various skills required for the qualifications of a fashion specialist. For these, qualification certificate systems are enacted to nurture specialized technical personnel, and among these, a jacket pattern is selected from the practical examination of Western-style dress skill prepared for nurturing specialist who can design, cut, and sew women's clothing, to be compared and analyzed against the existing printed practical textbooks, technical books of making clothes which used as college textbooks, and local documents of theoretical study documents. The methodology of the research is to select 8 samples for the study, analyze the identity with the design, and then cut applying the identical dimensions and compare the measurements, and make the clothes using each cutting methods, and inspect to find the consistency with the design and made statistical analysis. As a result, we designed and made research patterns, and suggested a jacket pattern design to patterns simply that suits the design fast.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.22-33
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• 2018

The aim of the research study is to carve sustainable business strategies for the fashion communities in Ethiopia and Ukraine which are suffering today due to ever-increasing share of fast fashion consumerism. Fashion houses and international brands propagandize sustainability and consumption for better consumer base, where as originally sustainable local-based craftsmen still stay in the shade. Four communities/local designers are selected from the countries through the method of purposive sampling. Qualitative analysis is the basis of the research as we performed personal interviews and in-depth analysis of the communities to diagnose the problems and subsequently devise the solutions. In this research, we have studied and analyzed the problems faced by hereditary communities and ethnic designers in small and medium scale enterprise sector from two emerging economies. After the grounding the difficulties faced we advised strategies for sustainable future growth to the companies. The current academic literature on small and medium scale enterprises highlights the problems and solutions for general industry sectors. This paper brings attention to fashion communities and designers who promote national heritage and are struggling to survive in emerging economies due to industrialization and globalization. Moreover the comparison of the two geographies is unique in nature.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.61-71
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was first, to examine the causes for the recent acceleration in the increase of textile/apparel waste and the current practices for reducing waste in the global textile and apparel industry; and second, to explore the influence of sustainability and social responsibility on fashion trends. Extensive literature on sustainable apparel and sustainable and socially responsible practices by global textile and apparel firms was reviewed in conducting this research. First, an accelerated fashion diffosion speed due to fast fashion was focused on as a cause for the increase in textile/apparel waste whereas mass customization was focused on as a potential solution for reducing waste. Then, the influence of the social trend toward sustainability and social responsibility on fashion trends was discussed, particularly the trends toward green products and recycled fashion, the trend against using real for or leather, and minimum-fabric-waste fashion in design and product development. This study furthers consumers' understanding of sustainability and social responsibility related to fashion trends and hopefully increases their consciousness in becoming socially responsible consumers. This study will also contribute to better decision-making in apparel and textile firms to produce sustainable fashion products.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.105-117
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• 2022

This study investigated how women in their 20s to 60s think about the relationship between environmental pollution and the fashion industry and categorized their perceptions. Through this, I tried to find out the direction of the fashion industry to improve environmental problems. There were four types of perceptions of fashion and environmental pollution. Type 1 recognized that the process of producing and consuming clothing causes environmental pollution, but it was a type that preferred fast fashion and valued trends. Type 2 thought that the fashion industry pollutes air and water quality, and if the price was high, recycling clothes were not purchased. Type 3 thought that the fashion industry was not the main culprit of environmental pollution, and that if you purchase clothes, you should protect the environment by wearing them for a long time. Type 4 was a type of effort to reduce environmental pollution by considering the environment first, purchasing old clothes, and changing clothes. As the importance of the environment has grown, various efforts are needed to reduce environmental pollution in the fashion field.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.47-57
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• 2003

Today there are increasing number of internet users. Internet is wide use of banking, shopping, school and studding. Also, internet is used in everyday living and its use is getting larger. Korea has the one of the most use of internet in the world. Most of houses have computer with internet, and there are alot of PC rooms in the streets. anyone can enjoy the internet anytime anywhere. Now, in internet there are group formed by community purpose. The 'dot com' companies was not making much of profit from their goods. However, they came out with an idea "avata" Soon, the avata became a hit and its known for its success. Avata is used for E-mail, name card, post stamp, and chatting. Also, Avata is very popular among chatting service, icon chatting, and 3D graphic chatting. Avata represent the user himself in internet and computer created imaginary space, and it connects between imaginary space and reality, also it exist between real name and nick name. Past years, the internet users were satisfied with their nick name, however resent year users wants to express them more. For the result the "Avata" is created to fulfill the need to express user themselves. There are three different ways to see how Korean react to fashion industry. first, Korea's land structure makes the density of population high, the transmission of information is very fast. Next, collectively is high among Koreans. Finally wide use to internet made the transmission of the fashion information much faster. The User wants to keep up with the fashion at the sametime they want to express themselves, and "avata" is the one that fulfill their needs. New technology and the desire to express themselves made the new term "avata industry". which was never existed before. In addition, the internet markets have potential power. Although, it is in start stage of avata industry. However, the experts say that its possibility of its development is not predictable. In conclusion, watch the development of a situation to analyze the avata industry and develop new avata fashion market.

• Journal of Korea Multimedia Society
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.529-537
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• 2013

*IT technology has been rapidly introduced to the clothing and fashion industry, and especially fashion shows have been changed very fast to keep up with the current digital era. In this research, the author designed virtual clothes, and investigated whether it is possible to make them similar to actual clothes and then performed a digital fashion show with these virtual clothes. This research discussed, based on case development and studies, whether a digital fashion show can express the designer's idea more creatively than the existing fashion shows and what needs to be improved for the effectiveness of digital fashion shows. As a result, the virtual clothes have been recognized to be very similar to actual clothes and facilitate creative expressions that are hard to be presented in actual fashion shows. The adaptation of 3D virtual clothes to real fashion industry in the future can make new contents through the innovation of distribution and industry.