• Title/Summary/Keyword: fashion textiles

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Study on torso patterns for elderly obese women for vitalization of the silver clothing industry - Applying the CLO 3D program - (실버 의류산업 활성화를 위한 노년 비만여성의 토르소 원형 연구 - CLO 3D 가상착의 시스템 활용 -)

  • Seong, Ok jin;Ha, Hee Jung
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.25 no.4
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    • pp.476-487
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this study was to suggest torso patterns that fit the three main body shapes of elderly obese women. To reduce time, costs, and also the trial and error needed to make patterns, the CLO program for 3D test wear was employed. Three virtual models for aged obese women were use, with the YUKA system used to produce torso patterns. 3D simulation of test wear and corrections was done to design optimal torso patterns. The results were as follows: First, for the three models of obese women's body shapes as realized by CLO 3D, Type 1 is lower-body obesity shapes, Type 2 is abdominal obesity shapes, and Type 3 is whole-body obesity shapes. Second, to design the study patterns, actual measurement values, back waist length and waist to hip length, were used. The armhole depth (B/4-1.5), front interscye (B/6+2.3), front neck width (B/12-0.5), front neck depth (B/12+0.5), front waist measurement (W/4+ 1.5+D), front hip measurement (H/4+2+0.5), and back hip measurement (H/4+3-0.5) were calculated using formulas. Third, according to the results of test-wearing the study patterns, reduced front neck width and depth improved the neck fit and reduced armhole depth bettered loose or plunging armhole girth and also reduced the sagging of bust c.. Also, tight sidesfrom aprotruded waist and abdomen improved with the increase of surpluses in the back waist and also back and front hip c. The exterior was enhanced by displacement of back and front darts, which distributed surpluses better.

The Study of Italian Velvet $14^{th}$ Century-$17^{th}$ Century

  • Lee Young-Joo
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.55-67
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study is to document an unidentified velvet fabric which is located in the Museum. The investigation was conducted by analyzing color, weaving technique. pattern of the study object. To identify the origin of the object, many references about color trends, construction methods and patterns were accessed. Two comparative objects which were dating from 1600 to 1699 in the Museum of F.I.T. were selected since they are similar to the study object. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; (1) The type of this study object is 'cut and voided velvet'. It is obtained establishing the motif as areas of cut pile so as to form a pattern, while leaving other areas of the grounded weave without pile. Two flowers and two tulips with S curved stems are composed as one unit in the vertical direction. (2) The colors used in this study object. which are ivory, smoke blue, medium orange, and yellow. are part of a new trend color in the $17^{th}$ century. (3) The vertical undulating stripe patterns are also of significance in this fabric. They seemed to be contemporary with the serpentine line which was common since the $15^{th}$ century and the vertical stripes pattern which appeared from the $16^{th}$ century. (4) The stylized tulip patterns of this study object began to appear in the early $17^{th}$ century. The stems and leaves of this patterns are less sinuous than the floral motifs of the later $17^{th}$ century. Therefore, the study object is dated to early in $17^{th}$ century because of the color combination. stripes. stylized tulips, leaves. and stems are showing the characteristics of this period.

Stretch Aesthetics In Contemporary Fashion Design (현대 패션디자인에 나타난 스트레치의 미(美)연구)

  • Cho, Kyoung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.46
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    • pp.67-88
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    • 1999
  • 텍스타일의 발전에 있어서 진보적 기술혁신은 합성섬유의 잠재력을 높이는데 큰 촉매 역할을 해왔는데 그 중 가장 두드러지게 성공적인 분야는 바로 스트레치 직물 분야이다. 스트레치는 그자체의 다양한 종류와 변화무쌍한 특성과 함께 스포츠 웨어, 캐주얼웨어 뿐 아니라 최근에는 정장류 남성복에 이르기 까지 그 사용범위와 미적 표현이 크게 증가되고 다양해졌다. 스트레치의 미는 기능적이고 편안하면서도 직물자체의 유동적인 특성과 함께 인체와 더불어 표출되는시각적 이미지가 현대미에 새로운 개념을 더하고있다는 데에 그 가치가 있다. 본 연구목적은 현대 패션디자인에 표현되어진 스트레치의 미적 개념과 가치가 무엇인가를 발견하는데 있다. 특히 섬유과학기술의 진보로 인한 스트레치 직물의 다양함과 그에대한 디자이너들의 패션철학과 디자인의 다양한 변화를 강조하고 나아가 다음세기를 위한 보다 나은 디자인의 방향을 제시해 보고자한다. 연구결과는 다음과같다. 1, 스트레치의 가장 두드러지는 현대적 미는 편안함과 기능성에 있다. 특히 스트레치 직물 자체가 더욱 가벼워지고 강해지면서 현대생활과 미래생활에서 가장 크게 중시되고 있는 comfortable & functional 의 이상적인 개념을 충적시켜 주고 있다. 2. 스트레치 직물의 유동적특징에서 대표적으로 나타난 스타일은 바디스트인데 이것은 스트레치 자체의 신축성이 기본적으로 인체곡선 위에서 표현되어진 것으로서 거의 비슷한 스타일의 uniformity 현상을 낳게 되었고 또한 인체선의 드러남으로 인해 'healthy'이미지 추구라는 현대미의 새로운 개념을 가져왔다. 2. 더욱 정교해진 스트레치는 결국 transparent look을 낳았고 또한 비치는 직물들을 겹쳐입는 layering 현상을 가져왔는데 이것은 현대적 순수미와 여성미가 시감각적 이미지로 표현되어진 것이라 할수 있다. 4. 스트레치가 되므로서 생기는 긴장은 다른 디자인 요소들에 대해서는 극히 단순한 것을 요구하면서 결국 simplicity를 동반하게 되었다. 5. 스트레치는 디자인 구성 요소들의 보다 작은 개념을 낳았는데 즉 더욱 좁아진 형과 작아진 사이즈 없어지거나 줄어든 다트와 구성선 그리고 그에따라 줄어든 공정과 낮아진 가격이다. 이 개념은 현대미의 minimalism의 한 현상으로 해석되어지며 스트레치 직물은 여기에 가장 부합되는 소재가 되었다. 6. 스트레치의 시각적 이미지는 그자체가 'easy' 'free'느낌과 함께 보편적이면서 미래적이다. 이상으로 볼 때 미래의 패션은 보다 진보적인 섬유과학발전에 힘입어 21세기의 새로운 환경에 잘 적응 할 수 있는 합리적이면서도 미적 가치가 내포된 인간에게 보다 친숙한 디자인으로 전개되리라고 생각되어진다.

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Formative Characteristics Regarding Traditional Cultural Identity and Development of Fashion Culture Products - Past, Present, and Future - (전통문화 정체성에 관한 조형성 특성과 패션문화상품 개발연구 - Past, Present & Future -)

  • Jon, Ji-Hyon;Raftery, Andrew
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.7
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    • pp.65-76
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    • 2009
  • Korea has established a code for the economic and cultural industry that covers a wide range of classes unlike the old information era which was limited to the simple knowledge, technology, tools, morals, and customers that had been established in our society. On the other hand, 'culture marketing' is a series of marketing activities in which value-added items are created and shared. The combination of business management and culture seemed pretty awkward considering how rapidly the world was changing, however, the nature of today's culture has changed and the economic nature of culture products has resulted from those changes. In this paper, two authors who expressed the cultural identity in the culture products are studied through a comparison analysis; the author Min Yeongsoon expressed the identity confusion that she experienced in a foreign country and how she overcame homesickness in her work; and the author Kim Ata expressed his confidence in Asia and used his clear and loud voice to express the culture in his work. In addition, today's culture products are affected by the surrounding cultures such as the member's traditional society, environmental culture, and individual's culture. It is a good source for good works of art. In this study, the efforts of seeking the cultural identity, structuring the concept, seeking a new market and possibilities are used to make a consistent process in order to make a series of the systems required for planning and developing culture products.

Low-Level Officials' Costumes as Illustrated in Tamna-Sullyeokdo at the Era of King Sukjong of the Joseon Dynasty (조선 숙종조 탐라순력도를 통해 본 하급관원 복식)

  • Lee, Joo-Young;Jang, Hyun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.6 s.115
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    • pp.172-183
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

Costume Code Analysis Placed Mise-en-abyme in the Movie - Focused on the Lucien Dällenbach's theory and the film - (미장아빔으로 배치된 영화 속 의상코드 분석 -Lucien Dällenbach의 이론과 영화 를 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Hyangja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.1
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    • pp.130-146
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    • 2017
  • This study focuses on the Mise-en-abyme theories of Lucien $D{\ddot{a}}llenbach$, and presents research methodology to analyze the modern cinema costume in a new view. Inherent aesthetic values of the costume code shown in the film are as follows. First, esthetics value shown is the analogic code through the maximization of factual realism by directing target. Mise-en-abyme placed in this film plays the role of costume codes, and highlights the subject by presenting specifically targeted realistic icons to maximize the realism of the movie. Second, Mise-en-abyme is deployed to the explicit text through costumes code is placed as Displaced code arrangements. In other words, each of the characters is a signifier. Symbolizing a historical era is the device that represents a self-reflective signifier. Third, paradoxically reflected by the overlapped expansion of virtual reality and the self-referential characteristics and are subject to reflect the thinking of the author. Costumes code placed in Mise-en-abyme is expressed in costumes positioned to maximize the realism in the film as described above, and implies narratives and self-reflective mediating tools that symbolism can be seen that the paradoxical metaphor for the reality and the future. In addition, through the metaphor of visual narrative is allegorical representation Mise-en-abyme with ambiguity, and it is a concrete text that can be realized in a variety of creative storytelling methods and image delivery methods of modern fashion. This study confirmed that this costumes to take the point of view of emotional $Mise-en-sc{\grave{e}}ne$ in the process of completing the film's themes and cinematic devices by identifying the roles and aesthetic value of code costumes as the core subjects that make up the narrative of the film.

A Study on Dyeability and Antibiotic Activities of Natural Dyeing with Artemisia (쑥을 이용한 천연염색의 염색성과 항균성에 관한 연구)

  • Song Kyung-Hun;Baik Cheon-Eui
    • The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.79-86
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    • 2006
  • This study purposes to find the best one for dyeing with artemisia in order to develop a more efficient method of dyeing with artemisia and investigates the antibiotic activities of artemisia. After dyeing cotton, rayon, silk, wool and nylon fabrics with dyebath extracted from artemisia, observation on dyeability by temperature, concentration and time has been carried out. And I took an observation on color change, color fastness to washing and color fastness to light after mordanting treatment. Also observation on the antibiotic properties of non-dyed fabrics, artemisia-dyed fabrics and artemisia-dyed fabrics with post-mordant has been performed to investigate the antibiotic activities of artemisia. And the following results have been obtained. 1. The dyeability of artemisia was better for protein fabrics such as silk or woo and amide-based synthetic fabrics like nylon than for cellulose fabrics such as cotton and rayon. 2. For all tested fabrics, the dyeability was increased as the concentration of artemisia dyebath, dyeing time and dyeing temperature was increased. Especially the dye ability for protein fabrics was most affected by the temperature, and high dyeability was obtained at high temperatures. 3. For the color fastness of artemisia-dyed fabrics with mordanting treatment, the color fastness to washing was good with grade of 4-5 while the color fastness to light ranged from grade 2 to grade 3, which requires improvement for practical use. 4. The artemisia-dyed fabrics were shown to have much higher antibiosis than the non-dyed fabrics, and the artemisia-dyed fabrics with mortanting treatment showed the following result; Cu 99.9%, Al 64% and bittern 64.7%.

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A Study on the Design of Traditional Food Package Under the Use of Hanji(I) - Design of Korean dried confectionary package - (한지를 이용한 전통식품 포장재 디자인에 관한 연구(제1보) - 한과류 포장재 디자인 -)

  • Lee, Yu-Ra;Kim, Hye-Won;Lim, Hyun-A
    • Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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    • v.39 no.2 s.120
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    • pp.68-77
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    • 2007
  • It is necessary to recognize philosophical and scientific depth, contained in traditional culture in a correct fashion, in order to succeed and develop our excellent traditional culture. Some studies on storage, circulation, and package design of traditional food will multiple the added value of traditional culture. So this research was carried out for making packing cases of kinds of Korean dried confectionery using Hanji by traditional manufacturing method, Hanji textile, charcoal Hanji and jade Hanji, and for developing environmental-friendly Korean dried confectionery package as more luxurious packaging papers by putting an exterior design on the surface. The results measured physical properties, air permeability and anti-mold activity of Hanji, and designing Korean dried confectionery are as follows. The physical properties and air permeability used to manufacture Korean dried confectionery package, turned out to be no affection to the food packaging Hanji. In order to avoid the monotonousness of Korean dried confectionery package, it was designed with Hanji textile together with elegant traditional pattern. It is estimated to increase the value of Korean dried food and to make the anti-mold activity of Hanji added charcoal and jade effective. In conclusion, by developing individual properties of traditional food and proper packaging paper as well as packaging design according to circulating situation, it is considered that the taste and the fancy can be maximized. After all, by applying excellent traits contained in our race's culture, it is possible to develop the package cases into competitive ones. And it would be able to increase utilization of Hanji. Namely, production of high quality traditional food package with Hanji is expected for new valuable industry of Hanji.

Environment Corresponding Package by Quantitative Mixing System with Functional Inorganic Material and Polyolefin Resin (기능성 무기물과 폴리올레핀계 수지의 정량적 혼합시스템에 의한 환경대응형 포장소재 개발)

  • Kim, Hi-Sam;Lim, Hyun-Ju;Park, Young-Mi
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.21 no.1
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 2009
  • A lot of research has been made over the recent decade to develop testing packages with antimicrobial properties to improve food safety. In this study, a new method, experimental device and technology for environmental corresponding packages of polypropylene (PP) film has been developed to provide effective temperature buffering during the transport/long-term storage of grains or foodstuffs from the supplier to the market. This quantitatively optimized mixing system enabled to produce PP films with the 700$\sim$1,400d (width;1.5$\sim$3mm, thickness;0.01$\sim$0.5mm). In the whole mixing systems, the finely-granulated inorganic illite and PP virgin chip for master batch (M/B) chip was calculated by digital measurement methods, and then the M/B chip for PP film was adapted through a air jet and PP grinding method. The prepared PP film was characterized with tensile strength and elongation, far infrared radiation (FIR) emissivity, antimicrobial activity and deodorization properties. The results revealed that the two differently grain-sized illite could be show homogeneously dispersed on PP chip surface, and as the increasing of illite content, the FIR emissivity and the anion emission rate of film was increasingly improved. In both of 325 and 1,500 mesh-sized illite contained PP chip, of course the antimicrobial activity was good. But the ultimate deodorization rate for ammonia gas of PP film were found to be approximately the same.

Internet Use of Adolescents according to their Life Content and Type (청소년 생활시간의 내용과 유형에 따른 인터넷 이용)

  • Na, Young-Joo;Hwang, Jin-Sook;Lee, Eun-Hee;Koh, Seon-Ju;Park, Sook-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.43 no.12 s.214
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    • pp.15-28
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    • 2005
  • This study groups the life content of adolescents according to their time spent during the week and compares their internet use. The data were collected from 2210 middle and high school students, including their life content and hours, and various internet factors such as self-evaluated internet addiction, internet support, internet experience, chatting subjects and the type of internet service. Adolescents were divided into five groups: TV-oriented group, computer-oriented group, peer-oriented group, self-study group and extracurricular institution group. The purpose of internet use, internet experience, chatting subjects, negative aspects of internet and internet addiction were different by adolescents' group type. The peer-oriented group had the highest real self image as opposed to the cyber self image and trusted other's words on the internet. The TV-oriented group had the lowest trust in the internet. The computer-oriented group received the highest internet support and internet experiences, but didn't use the internet for the purpose of information search. The self-study and extra-curricular institution groups used the internet the least, used it to solve stress and were interested in school circles on the internet.