• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.804-824
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• 2021

This study qualitatively explored the case of users utilizing multiple accounts on one social network service to create their own multiple spaces and different personas. The purpose of the study was to understand the behavior of people who use multiple accounts to express their identity online using Carl Jung's personality theory. We used in-depth interviews and the Zaltman metaphor elicitation technique (ZMET), targeting 19 people in their 20s and 30s who use more than one personal account on Instagram. Creating a shared consensus map using the configuration concept of ZMET derived six personas in relation to Instagram accounts. The motivations for the respondents' self-presentation associated with their personas and self-presentation types shown on Instagram were analyzed in terms of persona and fashion and subdivided into five dimensions: relationship management strategic presentation, self-monitoring presentation, competence demonstration presentation, anonymous presentation, and persona-centered presentation. Each respondent's persona and self-presentation formed by the Instagram account was analyzed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.477-493
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to explore relationships between company's characteristics, the status of business ethics education, employee perceptions of corporate business ethics, and organizational performance. A total of 161 small- and medium-sized apparel companies participated in a survey and data was analyzed using cross-tabulation, ANOVA, and SPSS PROCESS. The results show that, larger companies involved with export are more likely to implement business ethics education, whereas no company characteristic is associated with perceptions of corporate business ethics. Furthermore, apparel companies that implemented or planned to implement business ethics education, have employees with more positive perceptions of corporate business ethics and better organizational performance than fashion companies that have no plan to implement such education. In addition, companies in the apparel sector with higher employee perceptions of corporate business ethics had greater organizational performance than apparel companies with lower employee perceptions of corporate business ethics. This study emphasizes the need to implement business ethics education to enhance employee perceptions of company business ethics, which in turn promotes organizational performance. It is expected that the results of this study will positively affect the development and expansion of business ethics education programs and contribute to the foundation of knowledge for business ethics education for fashion companies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.1-14
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• 2017

Cycling has become a popular leisure activity, and many cycling enthusiasts have used cycling clothes as a form of expression, which often comes in wide range of colors. The study shows the importance of color in cycling clothing to meet the emotional needs of consumers. Furthermore, this study aims to provide comparative analysis between color of domestic and overseas cycling clothing brands, and color preference of Korean consumers in order to provide data, which can be used in satisfying consumers' needs for personal expression and emotional demands. Thus, the study expects to identify consumers' satisfaction for cycling clothing. The consumers were categorized by the frequency of cycling and their interest in fashion, and the following categories were made:potential consumers, casual cyclists with low fashion involvement, casual cyclists with high fashion involvement and frequent cyclists with high fashion involvement. Consumers preferred dark colors for their cycling clothing including jacket, top and pants, while 'frequent cyclists with high fashion involvement' preferred more diverse colors and tones. In the cycling clothing market, white and black were major colors, while red, orange and blue were major colors of chromatic color. In terms of shade, dark shade dominated the market. Comparing between preferred color and preferred product color, black was preferred for both, but no other colors showed such tendency. This study is based on empirical analysis and verification of color, which is the emotional element appealing to specific and segmented sports-apparel market. The study revealed that the data could be applicable to the design of future products.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.658-667
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is 1) to research how practitioners in fashion industry in South Korea perceive concepts of Technical Design/Designer, 2) to compare and analyze issues at work by occupation, 3) to research specific works in garment development process, and 4) to compare and analyze work involvement by occupation, type of a company and etc, and 5) to propose the role of Technical Designers in apparel companies in South Korea. There were two methods to conduct this study, which were in-depth interview and survey. Both methods were conducted to designers, merchandisers, pattern makers, technical designers, and production coordinators. Frequency analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, and Factor analysis were performed to get results by using SPSS 18.0 program. The results are following. There were 50 works during garment development process from the result of in-depth interview, and 6 factors were obtained from the result of Factor analysis, which were 'Works about Sample in Sample Development Process', 'Works about Product's Pattern and Size Spec', 'Works about Development of Garment's Design', 'Works about Planning of Product Development and Management of Product in Stock', 'Works about Production Process', and 'Preparation Works for Sample Development'. In conclusion, technical designer in apparel companies in South Korea should be in charge of works about sample in sample development process and decision making of product' size spec, which is included in works about product's pattern and size spec. Also, they should complete technical package after product is developed by designers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.185-203
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to reveal the modern succession and reinterpretation of brand identity through the case of Balenciaga design presented by Demna Gvasalia through a review of the literature, design collection, and design review analysis. The design collection analysis was conducted from 2016 F/W to 2020 F/W, when Demna Gvasalia commenced responsibility for the Balenciaga collection. A total of 12 articles from overseas fashion magazines and newspapers were analyzed. A modern reinterpretation of Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga design is as follows. First, he introduced luxury mode to reflect a sense of the times and introduced luxury street looks based on street and sports sensibilities, showing various styles without specific concepts. Second, by sharing universal sensibilities based on pragmatism, he proposed an easy-to-wear outfit for daily life to demonstrate the everydayness of fashion. Third, as a new exploration of traditional structural beauty, the design of Cristobal Balenciaga was reinterpreted through the conversion of items, overlapping outfits, and the introduction of high-tech technologies. Fourth, by taking a conceptual approach to fashion, he has renewed the spirit of experimentation and modernity shown by Cristobal Balenciaga. Fifth, with the presentation of a new icon, new styles of sneakers such as Triple S and Speed Runner are presented as new icons. He inherited the original mindset and creative approach of the house's founder, Cristobal Balenciaga, and reinterpreted it from a contemporary street sensibility and pragmatic perspective.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.70-90
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• 2023

This study aims to use Art brut works-the artwork of the socially underprivileged and alienated-to influence social roles in fashion design, employing a formative expression method to promote social acceptance of diversity in the industry. The research method involved investigating Art brut's concept and evolution in domestic and foreign literature and previous studies. The formative characteristics of the movement were derived by analyzing the works of Art brut artist Johann Hauser. One hundred and twenty images of Johann's work were collected through online sources like the Gugging Museum's website, Christian Berst Gallery's website were developed as fashion design using the CLO 3D program. The formative characteristics of Johann's works appeared to be transparent overlapping, divisional decorativeness emphasized simplicity, and vibrant chromaticity. Based on this analysis, the results of the 3D digital fashion designs were as follows. First, the characteristics of the atypical objects and figures in Johann's works were applied to the design silhouette, revealing a uniquely beautiful form. Second, Johann used a method in which numerous line shapes overlap and fill the area. The point of connecting the work is expressed as a graphic pattern by decorating the lines of the hem and hem of the garment with piping or attaching overlapping straps on top of pants and dresses. Third, the combination of overlapping colors used in Johann's work is a color block design of fashion, which utilizes the formative fun.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.165-176
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• 2021

To solve environmental problems, research and efforts are required to reduce leather waste that is generated in large quantities during the leather manufacturing process. Leatherboard is a plate-like material that is made by crushing leather waste, such as trimming or shaving scraps and mixing fibers, pulp, rubber, and adhesives. The aim of this study is to provide basic data on the localization of leatherboard manufacturing technology for outsoles, which are increasingly in demand due to their excellent performance and price competitiveness. Interviews with experts and related organizations were conducted to investigate the related global technology trends. Also, the performance of three products that can be used as reference materials were evaluated and compared. As part of the research and efforts to reduce the amount of leather waste generated, high-performance materials using leather waste were developed and commercialized by major western companies. In Korea, various efforts have been made since 2000, and some companies have produced leatherboard for interior uses. However, the amount of waste recycled relative to that generated is not large due to the limited demand. Natural leather soles perform better than leatherboard soles in all evaluation aspects. In the case of leatherboard, performance varied by manufacturer. German products showed flexibility resistance and dimensional stability, thereby meeting performance requirements. However, abrasion resistance and cleavage resistance were slightly below the required performance standards, and research and development is needed to improve performance in those areas. Currently, it is impossible to evaluate the performance of domestic products due to underdevelopment. However, if the development of process technology continues based on the performance evaluation results of the best leatherboard in the shoe industry, materials for outsoles will be able to be produced domestically with prices competitiveness while realizing natural leather materials performance to some extent.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-10
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the structural properties of 100% wool fabrics knitted with various stitch types and to evaluate dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying. Materials were weft-knitted from twenty-four different stitches with 7 gauge using a computerized flatbed knitting machine. Weight, thickness, density, and length were measured. A domestic washing machine and a tumble dryer were used for the shrinkage test. The results are as follows: Knitted fabrics were divided into 3 groups based on weight per unit area. Porous knits show light weight whilst milano, pintuck, rib stitches belong to the heaviest group. A positive correlation between weight and thickness was found and the same result was obtained for wale density and weight. Dimensional shrinkage of knitted fabrics was increased during repetitive wet cleaning and drying regardless of knit stitches. Especially, fabrics knitted with float, tuck, cable, and links & links stitches samples were contracted more than 15% in the first treatment whereas 2x1 rib stitch showed 1% shrinkage rate. Fisherman and milano stitches contracted in both course and wale direction with similar shrinkage rates. However, porous knits with float and tuck stitches shrank in course direction by 20% as well as cable samples contracted from 5% to 20% after repeated washing and drying. On the other hand, 30% and 15% contraction of wale direction occurred in orderly float and links & links stitches, respectively. Machine dried knits have a higher shrinkage rate than air-dried knits, but the drying method did not affect to the direction of contraction. In conclusion, variations of knit, tuck, and float stitches affect knit construction and dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying of wool knitted fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.1-9
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to improve sustainable clothes care by comparing household washer's standard course and quick course. Detergency at each course was classified by laundry weight, detergent concentration, and soils. Also, fabric damage from each course was compared. Washing experiments were carried out using two types of washing machines and three types of detergents. Using the standard soiled fabrics of EMPA 108 set, detergency was compared by laundry weight, soil, and detergent concentration. Additionally, fabric damage was evaluated using the mechanical action of MA-40. The results of the research were as follows. First, a standard course, having more working time exhibited better detergency than a quick course. However, the detergency deviation under 6kg laundry weight was as low as 9.0%. Second, detergency by the type of soil was more effective in standard course than in a quick course, but hydrophilic protein soils had a small detergency deviation at 7.6%. Moreover, hydrophobic oil, complex, and particulate soils had a higher deviation at 19.7% Third, fabric damage was in proportion to operating time. Fourth, a quick course showed approximately 80% detergency regardless of the type of detergent. in the case of using 50% of the recommended allowance by the detergent manufacturer. In conclusion, reducing the operating washing time and detergent concentration is in accordance with increasing sustainability, in the case of washing with lightly soiled fabrics under 6kg of laundry weight.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.109-120
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• 2017

In the textile industry located in Gyeonggi-do, 85% of small-sized firms have less than 10 employees; in addition, the most of them are characterized by a vendor relying specialization system that conducts foundry from the vendor that managed marketing, textile design development, and quality checks according to unit stream. The breakaway of these vendors accelerated over the last 7 years; however, industry survival is at stake because the specialization system and orders have collapsed. The following four main policies must be implemented to overcome industry hardship. Policies have been derived from survey and analysis (present condition and trends) from industrial statistics and related policies in advanced and developing countries. First, a policy to promote cooperation between small-sized foundry unit-streams. Second, unification of the marketing support function with a textile design and development support system. Third, the introduction of policy support-management system customized according to developmental stages (tall process${\rightarrow}$fabric production${\rightarrow}$sales${\rightarrow}$clothing production sales). Fourth, foundation of a control tower that puts these tasks in a vehicle and runs them and the division of roles with the central government. We must propel main tasks to manifest the developmental potential (develop eco-friend dyeing and processing technologies, change to the young next CEO in business environment, and grow the of knit market) of the Gyeonggi Textile Industry in a short period to present a condition where these four main policies are running.