• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.617-633
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to examine emerging trends in fashion films and the impact of COVID-19 through analysis of Prada films produced before and after the initial spread of the COVID-19 pandemic. We selected 40 cases occurring prior to the pandemic, from June to December 2019, and 21 cases occurring since the outbreak, from June to December 2020. To identify relevant trends, we conduct a literature review and examine a range of case studies. First, travel restrictions and confronting activities currently inhibit production. Through our case study analysis, we identify nineteen cases in between before and after COVID-19. Secondly, Prada can be seen to mainly produce episodes and promotional films. Additionally, it develops content showcasing brand values in environmental, cultural, creative, and sport-related fields; intended audiences extend beyond the realm of fashion. Thirdly, a new film category began to develop after the outbreak of COVID-19, namely, narrative films utilizing virtual interactions. According to our analysis results, we expect film production that is increasingly facilitated by virtual communication, technology utilization, and online platforms to continue even after the resolution of COVID-19. New film categories will emerge, and we predict that the gap between the number of cases before and after COVID-19 will narrow.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.167-182
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• 2014

This study researched the symbolic meaning of the costume colors in the independent film . The purpose of the study is to shed light on the relation between a film and the clothing color by exploring the symbolic meaning of costume colors as based on place images and as reflected in characters' internal psychological states and situations. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the colors primarily presented were neutral shades of black and white or dark, almost-black tones, representing the negative narrative structure and depicting the image of a human being. Second, a series of bright blue shades were presented to reflect the positive narrative structure of a human being returning successfully to reality. Third, the application of color, involving both the psychological aspect as well as the symbolism of color, was effectively delivered to the audience. Fourth, the emphasis on color in the smallest details of costumes was analyzed, and it was found that symbolic color effectively communicated the whole image of transformation as the story progressed, clearly delivered delicate emotional messages, and contained symbolism relating to particular places and situations.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.14-31
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• 2022

Worn by both males and females the kimono is the national dress of Japan. Previous research highlights that this national dress is fading from tradition and evolves to develop with the times and fashion trends. This research aims to investigate what a kimono represents both historically and currently within Western society. The idea of the kimono being more than a national dress representing Japan, the main three themes researched will be (1) Shape (2) Narrative (3) Journey from East to West. Based on both primary and secondary sources this research indicates that there is a strong relationship between the universal increase of kimono wearers in Eastern and Western societies from history through to present day. Primary research is utilised in the form of two types of interviews. Primary outcomes bring a personal perspective to how and why kimono is worn nowadays within Europe. Secondary sources include online lectures held by kimono specialists as well as subject relevant books. From the 19th century where the Dutch were the only European country to trade with Japan, an exchange of fabrics took place which later led to the exchange of: fit, fashion and pattern (primarily within Western womenswear fashion.) This distinct garment never gets discontinued and evolves with social demands within society today.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.14 no.4 s.51
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• pp.27-34
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• 2005

One of the most famous designers of our age, Philippe Starck designed eight hotels among fan Schrager's of which hotels are not so big but have huge popularity all around the world located in major cities such as New York, London, Miami, L.A., and San Francisco. These hotels have brought significant influence particularly to the aspects of their recent fashion and strategies in Boutique hotels. Therefore, this paper intends to examine the space composition and design methods by analyzing the eight hotel projects by him. The research started with reviewing his design background first and analyzed the characteristic of his designs of above hotels. The analysis results were arranged from the aspects of narrative spatial configuration and dramatic presentation. From the aspect of narrative spatial configuration, the hotels by Philippe Starck mainly consisted of 1) boundaries and gateways, 2) spaces of passage, 3) center spaces, and 4) the spaces surrounding the center spaces. For the latter's aspects, it was found that various design methods such as 1) objectification, 2) intended ambiguity, 3) depaysement 4) eclectic hybrid, 5) distortions of scale, and 6) sensuous clues were employed. A study on the hotels by tan Schrager, which owe their big success to the emotional design of Philippe Starck's, not only widens the understanding of his design world, but also serves to the appreciation of today's hotel marketing strategies and design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.501-512
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• 2015

This study was to consider and analyze of fashion window display design at Printemps department store in Paris, France which has tried continuously space presentations through the sensibility and differentiated strategy. The framework for analysis of this study was established by related precedent studies. Data collection was done by searching related specialty publications and website of Printemps department store, and the results of this study were drawn through qualitative analysis of experts' group. The results are as follows. Printemps department store set up presentation types of fashion window display design's themes that have been developed by the method of display presentation such as symbolic, ambience, surrealistic, realistic, and information. The most frequently used presentation development techniques applied in windows' VP of Printemps were the 'transferal of daily space', 'transferal of unexpected space', 'exaggeration of animal & plant', and 'descriptive narrative scene.' In addition, the display theme components such as the materials that can be easily accessible in everyday life, unique directing props, the memory or childhood, the image of animal or plant, and lighting etc. We found that the major colors of window display design at Printemps department store were purple, blue and black during the period from 2009 to 2014.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.55-67
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• 2012

Based on the fact that a parody is widely used as one of main methods of creating art, this study focuses on the parodic techniques used by one of the most famous contemporary artists, Cindy Sherman. Her unique techniques, which are shown through parody, provide different aesthetical values to contemporary fashion designs. The purpose of this study is to find out whether or not contemporary fashion designs that use parodies can be presented as creative fashion designs. The study was carried out by analyzing data retrieved from various literatures, dissertations, magazines and the Internet. The period between the late 1990s and 2010 is the time when parodies were widely introduced, this study presents tables, pictures and photographs based on data collected from that period. The result of this study suggests that there are mainly four expressive techniques used to create Cindy Sherman's parodies: female viewed from a male's perspective, pornography and sexual satire, narrative and realistic reproductions, and foreignness and harmony in conflict. This study discovered that based on these four expressive techniques, contemporary fashion can produce the following four results according to their production styles, silhouettes, materials, and colors: the beauty of the retro pinup girl style, the beauty of eroticism and sexual satire, the beauty of history through reinterpretation of the past, and the beauty of compromise through conflict. As described above, this study attempts to seek how techniques of parodies give different aesthetical values whether or not they can become creative fashion design techniques by listing Cindy Sherman's unique expressive techniques in her parodies in relation to contemporary fashion designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.346-355
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• 2021

Art strategies have been addressing the problem of volume growth caused by changes in the distribution environment of luxury brands. Art is a universal language that transcends borders and communicates across cultures, therefore, artification acts as a strategy for the globalization of luxury brands. This study aims to study how contemporary luxury brands communicate their artifacts strategically through branded products via artification. As a research method, a literature review and case studies were combined. The cases of artification range from the 2000s to the present, and the top 100 brands in the luxury category of Millward Brown were selected. Drawing on the characteristics of artification defined in this study we analyzed the cases of articulation of luxury brands. As a result, first, appropriation of art in the product frame is carried out by borrowing ideas from renowned works or artists. Second, as an experimental attempt, it is effective to associate the international reputation of an artist with a product through a reinterpretation of the product. Third, as an artistic creation for the brand narrative, luxury products are sublimated into artwork and idealized.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.153-166
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• 2021

In this study, the artistic background and formative nature of representative 19th century realist artists Gustave Courbet and Honoré Daumier were analyzed and applied in a fashion context. By displaying representational desires (necessary adhesions of man and society) in their work, they became characteristic matrixes of critical realism and to perceive critical realism. The purpose of the study was to apply the characteristics of critical realism to the contemporary fashion collections of Alexander McQueen. Research was conducted to analyze the characteristics that appear in the field of fashion and to review methods of expression and internal aesthetics displayed through various aspects of fashion design. Characteristics of critical realism were analyzed by researching the formativeness and periodical background of the paintings of Courbet and Daumier. Based on these characteristics, analysis was conducted to identify critical realism in the fashion collections of Alexander McQueen. Data and scope included fashion information sites, internet photo data, and video material. Critical realist characteristics were categorized into five types as follows: 'The proper borrowing of extremely realistic subjects signifies', 'satirical reconstruction and narrative composition', 'antipathetic distortions and abject representations', 'critical reproductions based on technology', and 'the maximization of ambivalent sexuality'. It was concluded that the characteristics of critical realism (recognized by the common formation of Courbet and Daumier) also appeared in Alexander McQueen's fashion collection but were inherited in a form that transcended pictorial expression due to the overall difference in use of visual arts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.164-180
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• 2024

In the context of a globalized society where diversity, equity, and inclusion (DE&I) have emerged as pivotal values, the fashion industry is undergoing scrutiny for its practices related to body DE&I. This study examines the nature of the discourse surrounding body DE&I within the fashion industry, focusing on how such discussions are shaped, disseminated, and manifested in both the industry and broader society. Critical discourse analysis is applied by utilizing, content from the New York Times and leveraging Fairclough's analytical framework encompassing textual, discursive, and social practices. The findings indicate that the New York Times emphasizes diversity, with a significant focus on the shapes and sizes of women's bodies, developing a narrative centered around women's bodies through visible and representative domains. The analysis suggests conflicted discourse, with prevailing critiques against the fashion industry's standardization of beauty and superficial inclusivity efforts. Moreover, the industry's adaptation to social demands for body DE&I is observed as sporadic, often leveraging non-normative bodies as a marketing strategy rather than genuinely embracing diversity. This study highlights the importance of continuous, in-depth discourse and social practices regarding DE&I within the fashion industry, as well as the need for systemic changes and policies that genuinely reflect societal demands for inclusivity. The findings provide a foundation for future investigations into the multifaceted relationship between fashion discourse, DE&I, and social practices, advocating for a more inclusive and critically aware fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.130-146
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• 2017

This study focuses on the Mise-en-abyme theories of Lucien $D{\ddot{a}}llenbach$, and presents research methodology to analyze the modern cinema costume in a new view. Inherent aesthetic values of the costume code shown in the film are as follows. First, esthetics value shown is the analogic code through the maximization of factual realism by directing target. Mise-en-abyme placed in this film plays the role of costume codes, and highlights the subject by presenting specifically targeted realistic icons to maximize the realism of the movie. Second, Mise-en-abyme is deployed to the explicit text through costumes code is placed as Displaced code arrangements. In other words, each of the characters is a signifier. Symbolizing a historical era is the device that represents a self-reflective signifier. Third, paradoxically reflected by the overlapped expansion of virtual reality and the self-referential characteristics and are subject to reflect the thinking of the author. Costumes code placed in Mise-en-abyme is expressed in costumes positioned to maximize the realism in the film as described above, and implies narratives and self-reflective mediating tools that symbolism can be seen that the paradoxical metaphor for the reality and the future. In addition, through the metaphor of visual narrative is allegorical representation Mise-en-abyme with ambiguity, and it is a concrete text that can be realized in a variety of creative storytelling methods and image delivery methods of modern fashion. This study confirmed that this costumes to take the point of view of emotional $Mise-en-sc{\grave{e}}ne$ in the process of completing the film's themes and cinematic devices by identifying the roles and aesthetic value of code costumes as the core subjects that make up the narrative of the film.