• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.472-480
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• 2005

It was proved the practical use of the unique traditional Korean paper through the previous researches. The purpose of this study was to suggest the adequate application which is making various applied patterns in the fashion products so as to contribute to textile, fashion, and Korean paper industry. Six kinds of vests with the same fashion material using the Korean traditional paper were manufactured in order to investigate the images of materials in case of wearing them on the actual human bodies. As the results of image assessment for the materials and the factor analysis, 'classical', 'natural', 'Korean traditional', 'rural' and 'luxury' images were presented as the representative image of the Korean traditional paper material. Making repeated patterns of stripes and zigzag by sewing-machine stitches showed the natural effect on Korean traditional paper. Well-matched harmony was shown between holes made by the needle in sewing and slits torn by the tension to the needle and the thread. Especially, transparency by irregular holes formed by artificial frictional washing could shown special formative arts harmoniously with semi-transparency of Korea traditional paper and touch of sewing yarn. After the unripe persimmon dyeing, holes made by the needle became more hard and tight. The changes were no longer shown by the artificial frictional washing and then fixed. As the result of applying the Korean traditional paper fashion materials with various patterns for the basic formed garments, it was shown that the common and simple garments were changed the garments with special formation which could be found on the art garments due to the creative touch and formative arts using the Korea traditional paper fashion material. A variety of formative application by means of the developed samples was suggested to enlarge the practicality. As the result of this study, it was discovered that the possibility and application of fashion goods through the developed samples made of Korean traditional paper.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.35-51
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• 2020

To satisfy consumers' desire to enjoy their own individuality and cultural trends, the discovery of various materials and the expression of materials embodying their characteristics are increasingly important in the fashion jewelry industry. This study examines, paper mulberry fiber, a raw material of hanji that has been excavated as a new material for fashion jewelry, is durable as wall as, soft and easy to form, has a unique texture along with, excellent aesthetic quality, and expresses various colors, thereby differentiating itself from traditional fashion jewelry materials. The material itself also has symbolic significance as an approach to discovering new sustainable materials for fashion jewelry to ensure increased specificity of the product based on the premise of freedom of expression. The weight and optimal drying time of chicken fiber were derived for the study of fashion jewelry expression using the characteristics of paper mulberry fiber. The techniques of casting, deflection, packing and winding (winding beads with fibers and straps) were derived and four brooches were produced in total. This study is meaningful for the future of, the fashion jewelry industry as it presents the uses of new materials such as paper mulberry fiber to induce multidisciplinary consumption and to suggest a direction for the creation of new value-added products. Further, in order to expand the realm of fashion jewelry industry with our own competitive products that have secured our cultural identity and uniqueness in the global market, there must be continued follow-up research on mass production methods for industrialization.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.89-102
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• 2010

Atayal studied in this paper is one of the indigenous tribe in Taiwan, which is receiving considerable publicity gradually. Atayal has a quite unique traditional dress and custom as facial tattoo. The study was limited to the conventional culture of body adornment of the Atayal including the clothing which is less preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are just a little included in the scope of the present study. Through this study, we can get know about indigenous tribe's cultural background, such as their life, custom, religion, and the influences on traditional costumes. As for the research method, I examined the Atayal's traditional costumes and clothing through related books, magazine, research papers, internet sites, and etc. I also examined the common ground between facial tattoo patterns and their clothing using reference books and official web-site. Traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of facial tattoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Atayal. In way, I hope this study will make a contribution to the field of Korean fashion industry which intends to enter Taiwan market.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.149-163
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• 2011

Hanjisa(Korean paper yarn), a new material made from the traditional Korean paper, has been developed through local R&D efforts, reflecting the current trend highly valuing environmental friendly. This new material is considered suitable for the 21C lifestyle and culture pursuing improved quality of human life and the environment. Therefore, this study aims to widely make known the originality and functions of the environmentally friendly Korean paper yarn, as well as to increase its commercial value. Furthermore, a new category of apparel design is presented by studying painting dyeing based on transformational tuck techniques and wax resist dyeing with formative features of repeated lines and rhythms of shells in order to implement three-dimensional and decorative artistic expressions. The texture of the Korean cotton paper yarn was particularly suitable to employ tuck and dyeing techniques Which express formative features of shell. Also, the material was useful for expressing the three-dimensional feelings with repeated curves and cross sections of shells. Moreover, paraffin resist dyeing and stitch techniques were used in order to avoid monotony and the images of shells visually materialized. Through the results stated above, this study could explore how to overcome obstacles to globalization of the Korean modern apparel such as its uniqueness, limit of materials or absense of internationality by applying modern design to the Korean paper fabrics. In the future, it is expected that more manufactures could produce and supply the new materials so as to make widely known the originality of the Korean paper fabrics and develop the material into a popular organic product fitting the modern lifestyle.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.80-95
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• 2021

In the modern fashion industry, the application of different materials along with an emotional design is emerging as an important factor stimulating consumer sentiment. This has led to the diversity of materials and continued active research on materials. Traditional Korean paper is expressed in various ways in the field of visual arts based on Korean sentiment and unique formative characteristics. Hanji costumes have been produced in various ways over the past 20 years utilizing Hanji's physical characteristics, showing unique surface texture and various techniques that differentiate them from existing fabrics, making it symbolic in expanding the area of fashion materials. In this work, various techniques were developed by utilizing the nonwoven characteristics and excellent variability of Hanji while considering visual images, focusing on the delicate decorations and materialistic representations of wedding dresses. In addition, minimal wedding dresses with unique textures were produced to realize fantasy ideas and show surface aesthetics, confirming as a fashion material different from that of existing wedding dresses. The direction of high value-added creation for the industrialization and globalization of Hanji wedding dresses was presented, and the usefulness and scalability of Hanji materials for practical and industrialization were identified in materials that expressed visual art. To in the fashion industry, which is changing in both the wedding industry and the global market, the development of materials with high sensitivity images and original and solid identity should continue.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.450-470
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• 2018

This study examined the risk components and risk types perceived in the context of purchasing decisions of paper fashion products. This study also identified the levels of perceived risk by consumers and the differences between age groups in risk perception. First, qualitative data were collected through a focus group interview with 7 Korean females in their 20s to 50s. The interviewees were presented with two types of paper materials (undyed and dyed Jumchi-Hanji) and products (bags and wallets) made with the papers. The interviewees mentioned 11 risk components which were classified into five types of risks: performance (easily torn/lack of durableness, lint/pilling/wear-out, lack of water-resistant, no washability, and deformation and discoloration over time), social-psychological (old and traditional image), aesthetic (lack of design diversity, unsatisfactory appearance due to repair), financial (expensive price, lack of usability in daily life) and time/convenience (difficulty in handling) risks. Based on the results of the interview, a measurement for evaluating the risk perception of paper fashion products was developed. Second, quantitative data were collected from 64 Korean women in their 20s to 50s using the measurement. Respondents who were presented with the paper materials and the products perceived the performance risk more strongly than the social-psychological risk and aesthetic risk. In addition, differences between age groups were found: younger respondents perceived performance risk and social-psychological risk more strongly than older respondents, but older respondents perceived financial risk more than younger respondents. Based on this study, strategies for the risk reduction of paper fashion products were proposed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.789-808
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• 2010

The orientalism in fashion is believed to develop from the eclectic notion of oriental and occidental fashion. By studying on Gabrielle Chanel's clothing that is usually used by neutral colors and on Yohji Yamamoto's clothing that characterizes clothes in neutral colors, the purpose of this study is to seek ways for remaking Korean traditional clothing into a new modern one to gain a world reputation in terms of clothes. Therefore the study is for exploring the characteristics on the factors of fashion design such as color, line and textile materials with works of Gabrielle Chanel, a famous designer in Western world who has made a black color a popular one for people and works of Yohji Yamamoto, an well-known fashion designer of the East using neutral colors. This study analyzed, from the 2004 S/S to the 2006 F/W, the collection of works published in style.com through the works of Gabrielle Chanel, Yohji Yamamoto, and through the analysis of the visual target. A total of 527 images are used in this paper. Elements of fashion design analysis are lines, colors, and materials. The study reached the conclusion as follows after analyzing the characteristics on clothing with neutral colors of Gabrielle Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto. In case of aesthetic characteristics on the design of Gabrielle Channel, it has expression of feminist, sensual, modern and luxury. It is considered that Gabrielle Channel has a luxury image using a neutral color. Also using simple sleeveless in black and tweed structure, the garments have mixed with neutral colors. Fashion design characteristics on the design of Yohji Yamamoto classified into sensual, modern, ascetic expression. Therefore the design has a simple expression of using a black color. Yohji Yamamoto is a designer who pursues unstructured design by using various neutral colors such as black, gray and white based on the oriental sentiment.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제47권3호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2009

This study was conducted to examine how patchwork was expressed in fashion based on theoretical background on its brief history and expression styles and to show its possibility of creating ways for new expression in modern fashion. This study reviewed literatures on definition, history and styles of patchwork and investigated mainly works, which had been presented in collections home and abroad since 2000, to analyze its expressive characteristics shown in modern fashion. According to analysis on the expression of patchwork, it used various painting techniques such as patterns, colors and surface effect. It included patchwork having patterns provoking elusion of fairy tails; containing painting expression of reproducing works of artists; using colors boldly and contrasting strong primary colors directly to establish purity of painting and to pursuit characteristic expression; and using expression techniques of pure art such as gradation and cutting. Second, it used a compromise expression in materials, methods and substances. Patchwork which had used cloth without a pattern or printed fabric, utilized various materials like vinyl, paper, leather, metal and plastic and had a figurative value showing a solid expression as an objet itself with new techniques and changes of connecting methods. Thirdly, it used tradition patchwork techniques. Pieced patchwork, crazy patchwork and images of traditional odd ends of cloth covering a meal were applied to a whole area or a part of cloth to avoid monotony of design and to use it as a decoration.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권11호
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• pp.171-178
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• 2006

Recently more than ever, interest in Korean tradition has been on the increase, with an active movement to follow tradition. There are various merits for expression with the use of Korean paper as a clothing material. The purpose of this study was to assess the aesthetic characteristics of men's shirts fashioned using Korean paper (Hanji). The following conclusions were obtained from an analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of Hanji shirts. First, Hanji has a peculiar texture, with natural characteristics due to the direct use of naturally handcrafted materials. Hanji shirts have the natural beauty of pure Hanji, without artificial treatment or other subsidiary materials, with the exception of thread. Secondly, Hanji shirts with decorative details and trimmings, such as frills, pin tuck, embroidery and spangles, express an ornamental beauty. Thirdly, Hanji shirts with frills or a fringe have real movement when worn and spangles give the illusion of movement due to changes in color or twinkling caused by light giving the beauty of rhythmical motion. Fourthly, Hanji shirts produced using the application of various techniques, such as crumple, painting and dying, express artistic beauty. Fifthly, Hanji shirts can express traditional beauty, even if created whit modem designs, but using traditional materials.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.53-66
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• 2002

The spiral form, which comes from the organic form of natural phenomenon such as growth of creatures, has been used as a factor of formative shape in various fields of art until now. In conjunction herewith, this study intends to discover and express the life force and the formative beauty of natural substances with the organic spiral forms into clothing design, using various creating methods and materials such as Korean traditional paper. The natural substances with the spiral structure, such as seashells, land snails, passion flower, curled flower, growing chart of plants, Impatiens textori was used as subjects of the designs. The seven pieces of work were completed with attempts to develop aesthetic forms through the presentation techniques and methods via restructuring process of simplification, partial transformation and consolidation. Through such process the conclusion of this study is as follows: First, the nature, with unlimited possibilities, could be subject of human formative activities, leading to the creative world of formative art for designers. Second, adaptation of the spiral organic forms of nature into the contemporary clothing designs proved the motif as a source of inspiration of diverse subject, in recognition with its innate formative beauty as well as external shape. Third, design expressions via restructuring process of simplification, partial transformation and consolidation with designer's subjective point of view were adequate for the creations of contemporary fashion designs. Fourth, the Korean traditional paper, as a fine material for various shape according to the handling method, could be used appropriately in the contemporary clothing designs, expressing our aesthetic senses. Fifth and finally, expansion of the realm of formative expression of clothing through the development of possibilities of expression in contemporary clothing would enhance the creative possibilities of clothing design as formative art. In conclusion, the expression of clothing design as formative art was developed on the emphasis of re-creation of natural objects of the organic spiral form. For the future study, the applications of spiral form into everyday clothing designs, consolidating artistic senses and practical senses, are expected as opportunity of proposing developmental possibilities of the contemporary clothing designs.