• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.69-86
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• 2011

The objective of this research is to unveil the dynamic changes of the trends in wedding dresses during the 20th Century. The studies were carried out in two forms; firstly by observing the actual wedding dresses worn by people at that time, and secondly by conducting formative comparisons between those dresses with the ones appeared in movies corresponding to that period. Movies provide an invaluable insight into the era's wedding dresses fashion trends since they function as intimate bridges in connection with the time's audience, and the visible imageries accurately reflect the characteristics embedded within that time frame. As there are no precedent studies regarding this topic, this thesis can serve as vital research data for the wedding dress industry. Research data regarding the actual wedding dresses were collected from books and museum web sites. The object of movies were films produced before World War II that contained both the background settings of the 20th Century and wedding dresses, of which photographic imageries were captured. Research analysis was then conducted by merging these data with findings from relevant books and internet materials. The results of the thesis are as the following: The 1900s was an extension of the 19th Century's popular fashion trend which can be characterized as the S curve silhouettes of the Edwardian period when long trains and long veils symbolized wealth and social power. In the 1910s, high waist silhouettes with soft wrinkles were prevalent as attire suitable for active mobility with practical functionality were highly regarded. During the 1920s, the flapper style became the dominant trend. Hem lines of the skirts were curled in the form of the scallop and laces were the most widely used raw materials. By the 1930s, wedding dresses that reinterpreted the glamorous sheath lines, practical two piece styles, and retro-styles became predominant. The 1940s saw the advent of ready-made wedding dresses made of synthesized materials; practical military style suits and casuals sometimes substituted the wedding dresses. And although the wedding dresses in the movies were primarily costumes to express the personalities of the characters, they were also reinterpreted as manifestations of the formative characteristics of each relative period that pursued very distinct and diverse features.

• Journal of Intelligence and Information Systems
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.163-179
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• 2010

Recentlythe concept of fast fashion is drawing attention as customer needs are diversified and supply lead time is getting shorter in fashion industry. It is emphasized as one of the critical success factors in the fashion industry how quickly and efficiently to satisfy the customer needs as the competition has intensified. Because the fast fashion is inherently susceptible to trend, it is very important for fashion retailers to make quick decisions regarding items to launch, quantity based on demand prediction, and the time to respond. Also the planning decisions must be executed through the business processes of procurement, production, and logistics in real time. In order to adapt to this trend, the fashion industry urgently needs supports from intelligent quick response(QR) system. However, the traditional functions of QR systems have not been able to completely satisfy such demands of the fast fashion industry. This paper proposes an intelligent quick response system for the fast fashion(IQRS-FF). Presented are models for QR process, QR principles and execution, and QR quantity and timing computation. IQRS-FF models support the decision makers by providing useful information with automated and rule-based algorithms. If the predefined conditions of a rule are satisfied, the actions defined in the rule are automatically taken or informed to the decision makers. In IQRS-FF, QRdecisions are made in two stages: pre-season and in-season. In pre-season, firstly master demand prediction is performed based on the macro level analysis such as local and global economy, fashion trends and competitors. The prediction proceeds to the master production and procurement planning. Checking availability and delivery of materials for production, decision makers must make reservations or request procurements. For the outsourcing materials, they must check the availability and capacity of partners. By the master plans, the performance of the QR during the in-season is greatly enhanced and the decision to select the QR items is made fully considering the availability of materials in warehouse as well as partners' capacity. During in-season, the decision makers must find the right time to QR as the actual sales occur in stores. Then they are to decide items to QRbased not only on the qualitative criteria such as opinions from sales persons but also on the quantitative criteria such as sales volume, the recent sales trend, inventory level, the remaining period, the forecast for the remaining period, and competitors' performance. To calculate QR quantity in IQRS-FF, two calculation methods are designed: QR Index based calculation and attribute similarity based calculation using demographic cluster. In the early period of a new season, the attribute similarity based QR amount calculation is better used because there are not enough historical sales data. By analyzing sales trends of the categories or items that have similar attributes, QR quantity can be computed. On the other hand, in case of having enough information to analyze the sales trends or forecasting, the QR Index based calculation method can be used. Having defined the models for decision making for QR, we design KPIs(Key Performance Indicators) to test the reliability of the models in critical decision makings: the difference of sales volumebetween QR items and non-QR items; the accuracy rate of QR the lead-time spent on QR decision-making. To verify the effectiveness and practicality of the proposed models, a case study has been performed for a representative fashion company which recently developed and launched the IQRS-FF. The case study shows that the average sales rateof QR items increased by 15%, the differences in sales rate between QR items and non-QR items increased by 10%, the QR accuracy was 70%, the lead time for QR dramatically decreased from 120 hours to 8 hours.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.129-141
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• 2021

This study investigated fabrics, washing and cares, design, pattern, subsidiary materials, and sewing methods with a focus on the functional outers using moisture-permeable waterproof fabric as a shell; in addition, each element was analyzed for differences depending on fabric type. The characteristics of 34 outers were investigated through labels, online product introductions, visual inspection, observations from two experts with more than 30 years experience and wear tests. Moisture-permeable waterproof fabrics used for the outer were classified into two types; in addition, the shell of the high-density fabric and the 2 & 3-layer fabrics had different characteristics. Various fabrics, detailed designs, and three-dimensional patterns suitable for each part of the human body were used to improve functionality. In addition, various subsidiary materials and sewing methods were used to form an organic relationship. The same washing and cares, patterns and subsidiary materials were used regardless of fabric type; however, the fabric type influenced the detailed design and sewing. The outers with high-density fabric had a loose fit, short placket, e-banded cuffs, lock-stitch, and lock-stitch+binding. However, the outer with 2 & 3 layer fabric had a slim fit, hood width adjustment, zippered pockets, cuffs with tab, seamless adhesive sewing such as laminating, lock-stitch+ seam-sealing, and welding.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.752-761
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• 2020

This study analyzes the type of preferred shopping items based on tourism shopping value pursued by tourists through shopping at travel destinations as well as verifies their impact on satisfaction. A survey on 310 adult men and women aged 20 to 69 collected data samples representing tourism shoppers in Korea. Based on the collected data, a factor analysis and a structural model equation analysis were performed using SPSS 25.0 and AMOS. Tourism shopping value was divided into functional value, emotional value, exploratory value, and shared value. In addition, shopping items were categorized as physical materials and experience materials to identify the difference in preferred item types according to the value that tourists perceive. It also confirmed the adjustment effect of tourism motivation that affects tourism shopping behavior. According to the analysis results, the more tourists perceive functional and emotional values when shopping, the more physical material they prefer, and the more they perceive exploratory values, the higher the preference for experience goods. However, the shared value affected both physical materials and experience materials. Based on escape-seeking motivation, the adjustment effect of tourism motivation (a major variable to understand the behavior of tourists) on tourism shopping behavior was confirmed. Based on the academic and practical implications of this study, we hope to broaden our understanding of tourism shopping and revitalize research on tourism shopping.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.613-625
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• 2007

Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.103-121
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information to improve competitiveness of Korean fashion brands in the Chinese fashion market by taking photos of street styles in Seoul that is the hub of Korean fashion and in Dalian, the northeastern district where Korean fashion brands are launched as a test market China to compare and analyze the clothing colors preferred mostly by young women in their twenties and thirties who have the highest purchasing power. The study methods used literature review and empirical study simultaneously. Dalian and Seoul are two fashion cities in northeast of China and Korea where street fashion was photographed. Clothing colors that were mainly worn by young women in their twenties and thirties were qualitatively analyzed using the photos taken. Color analysis was based on the Munsell Color Order System to grasp general preferences of colors on the basis of previous researches, and color tones were based on the ISCC-NBS System. In order to grasp the basic materials on Seoul, the Korean fashion city and Dalian, the northeastern fashion city in China, street fashion styles of 2010/11 F/W season were compared and analyzed. As a result, black and deep tone PB color appeared most frequently. The vivid and strong tone of R, YR, Y color showed high frequency of clothing colors. For the top wear, women in both areas preferred similar tones in the YR color category and Dalian women preferred vivider and brighter S tones in the R color category. For the bottom wear, women in both areas highly preferred achromatic colors and colors in the PB color category. For bags, women in both areas preferred black and colors in the YR color category. Finally, for the shoes, while women in both areas preferred black in the achromatic color category, they showed different color preferences in the chromatic color category. R color categories were preferred by the women in Seoul and the YR color categories were preferred by the women in Dalian. Conclusively, women in both cities highly preferred achromatic colors especially black for the top and bottom wear, bags, and shoes. It may reflect their desire to look refined and slender through colors. Moreover, continuous and steady research on fashion trends in Seoul and Dalian may have positive effects on Korean fashion businesses that plan to be launched in China, the area of competition for global brands.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.43-53
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to show inherent and differentiated beauty by designing costume knitwear using Dancho patterns representing peculiar beauty, thus expressing free and convenient knitwear in the modern sense for women with the image of reasonableness and elegance, proposing knit design using high-class materials for satisfying the demand for the highest. With regard to expression technique of works, I selected computer Jacquard method to indicate effective comparison effect of expression material and made expression with $12{\sim}14$ gauge as base by using computer knitting machine. Through above-mentioned research process and design using Knit CAD system, I obtained following conclusion. First, it is possible to express variously and widely traditional patterns by making the most of the beauty of the orient and by recomposing the patterns of plant patterns representing "feminine image". Second, it is possible to widely represent the sense you can feel from knit by expressing variously diversity of knit structure and Jacquard knitting structure and gauge. Finally, it is possible to express designs more freely and imaginably by using computer Knit CAD system instead of actual knitting of various knit expression technique and materials application.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.213-228
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to defined the conception and characteristics of Post-Modernism and dealt with how they are expressed in costume. Major characteristics of Post-Modernism are Historicism, Pluralism, and Eclecticism and these are reflected in the costume. 1. Historicism of Post-Modernism is a trend recreate artistic symbolism which Modernism lacked in reference to historical factors of the past. It has been as a trend of restoration and an ornamental trend can be included in the category of historicism in that it restored historical ornaments. 2. Pluralism of Post-Modernism means an open-hearted attitude toward everything. In costume, it has been expressed as a trend of mixed fashion style such as ecology, street fashion and futurism, collapse and mix of genres, diversity of materials and emphasis on texture caused by assemblage, change of the use to escape from the conventional system and avant-garde. 3. Eclecticism of Post-Modernism is expressed as a blended fashion style based on the principal of de-dualism. It has several trends ; exotic trend by mixing both oriental and western culters, androgyny which is a mixed image of an and woman, and a trend to use many kinds of materials together influenced by collage which is an eclectic mode.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.1018-1023
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• 2012

Smartphone is integrated into the daily lives of all types of people not even young generation. A touch screen display is a primary input device of a smart phone, a tablet computer, etc. While there are many tough technologies in existence, resistive and capacitive are dominant and currently lead the touch screen panel industry. And a capacitive touch screen panel widely used in smart phones is coated with a material that stores electrical charges. In this study, we tried to manufacture gloves produced with electro-conducting leather as a tool to operate a touch panel screen. Therefore, electrically conductive materials, Polyaniline(PANI), Poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene) (PEDOT), and Carbon nanotubes (CNT) were applied to the surface of leather to be used as a touching operator for capacitive touch screen panel. The leather samples were treated by simple painting method; firstly, they were painted with aqueous solution containing each of the electrically conductive materials and then dried. This cycle was repeated three times. Consequently, the treated leather samples showed electrical conductivity and reasonable working performance to the capacitive touch screen. And, PANI showed the best performance and highest electrical conductivity, and then PEDOT and, CNT in decreasing order. This is because the solubilities of PANI and PEDOT show higher than dispersibility of CNT. Thus, the concentration of conducting polymers was greater than that of CNT in the treating solutions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.85-98
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• 2013

Fabric industry has been developing enough to introduce diverse stretch materials to apparel market, so that tightly fitting leggings designs are taking over not only sports wear but also women's clothing. This study is aimed at developing prototype designs for leggings pants using stretch material that are appropriate for the lower part of body being functional, comfortable, and beautiful. As well, the study is intended to be of a reference in manufacturing such products. Some of the most popular leggings on the market in their kinds and materials were primarily selected to be tested in two ways: wear test and appearance test. Again, the test pants went through the same kinds of two tests, which turned out two designs. Finally, the test pants were treated to yield the most desirable prototype design. In conducting all these tests, some major defects causing discomfort and shortcomings of the leggings pants on the market were exposed and through the wear tests, the drawbacks were seen to be complemented in a big way. Thus, it is hopefully expected that this study will serve as a good reference for developing stretch pants.