• 복식
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• 제60권9호
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• pp.162-175
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• 2010

An important change started in knitwear fashion in the 1980s. Advanced designers in Japan began to provide a new interpretation on knitwear, and seamless knitwear based on computerized machinery appeared. Knitwear fashion showed differences starting the 1980s due to this change. In this regard, the study aimed to analyze knitwear fashion after the 1980s where the contemporary knitwear experienced changes to define characteristics of modern knitwear fashion and examine its inherent formative nature. Designs for 30 years from 1980s up to date have been analyzed by 10 years in order to identify the characteristics of knitwear fashion over time. In particular, formative characteristics of modern knitwear fashion have been analyzed in more depth with a focus on the period from 2001 through 2010 by narrowing the whole period. Insufficient domestic literatures and visual materials led the study to mostly use foreign books and internet sites. Insights of 7 professionals who have engaged themselves in knitwear industry over 10 years have been incorporated into this study, which will enhance the reliability of the formative analysis. As a result, the data have been organized into three tools of analysis, including exposed bodies, transformed bodies and natural bodies from the perspectives of expression and silhouette of body, and the features of flexibility, industrial artistry, innovation and sensuality have been highlighted in terms of formativeness. In this regard, it has been confirmed that the formative nature found in the knitwear fashion exists in the scope of the formative nature in the embryonic period of the knitwear fashion. It means that the formative nature of knitwear fashion contains perpetuity that transcends an age.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.147-156
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• 2015

Lately, unique hats, which worn by iconic figures in fashion industry, like Anna Piaggi and Isabella Blow to express the originality and self-awareness, received attention from the mass media along with their styles. The purpose of this research is to investigate, analyze, and media-specific characteristics of objet hats which are used to show various items, shape up targets, and express the concept of attires. In order to fulfill this, this study focuses on objet hat designers who have been influential from the 1980's to recent years. As for the research methodologies, this study conducts investigating examples from fashion related books, research papers, and websites along with literary research. Study of objet hat is based on cases and works of designer in objet hat in contemporary fashion expression shape. As a result, objet hat, First, the experimental work to maximize the effectiveness as a fashion objet containing the concept of designer in the runway shows. Second, as pieces displayed on art galleries and museums, objet hats are recognized as artistically defined world of conceptual designers' imaginations. Third, objet hats function as ways of celebrities' expression, who affects the public as fashion leaders. Lastly, objet hat designers's activities operate the story and notion contained in the work through a variety of genres. Objet hats, an independent fashion genre, which symbolize creativity and freedom, influenced the fashion industry with astonishing materials, forms, and decorations.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.31-47
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• 2019

This study focuses on women and fashion in Korea between the 1960s and 1970s, when the government regulated the socio-cultural aspects of individuals while achieving remarkable economic industrialization, particularly through the representative popular weekly magazine 'Sunday-Seoul'. The scope of this study included 168 issues from September 22, 1968 to December 26, 1971. Two research methods were applied, literature research and content analysis research. First, the literature on Korean society, culture, women's fashion, the sociological, feminine and popular cultural studies were reviewed. Thereafter, the contents, cover, articles, pictorials were collected and analyzed for classification and identification of the women's images and women's fashion. In the case of fashion articles, the contents of vocabulary and description texts were highlighted, and in the case of pictorials, the visual elements such as images, silhouettes of clothes, details of features, and patterns of materials were assessed. The images of women in Sunday Seoul's articles and pictorials exhibited extreme opposite, presenting the most important purpose of marriage, 'wise mother and good wife' and 'image of sexual object' for men. The two images of women differed; however, there was one more female image 'industrial laborer' which was placed in the blind spot of interest. The characteristics of fashion which appeared in 'Sunday-Seoul' were 'uniform modern elegance' based on neat mini-style, and 'sexual image of exposure fashion' which endeavored to selectively borrow from overseas pictorials and trend-oriented articles. This could be viewed as a 'transformation of traditional Hanbok', 'avant-garde trend' and 'de-sexualization & indifference of fashion'.

• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2016

The process of making fashion accessories brings many benefits to visually impaired people. It helps the development of their tactile sensation, improves their aesthetic attitude, creativity, and imagination, and brings energy to their life. The current accessory making education in Korea is targeted to people with normal vision, and does not reflect the specific needs of the visually impaired. This causes a lot of trouble in educating the visually impaired. Therefore, this study aims to increase the efficiency of accessory making education by selecting curriculum and material that are appropriate and systematic for the visually impaired. In order to understand visual impairment, literature review was conducted to examine the definition and classifications of the impairment. Research was also done regarding material types and production method of fashion accessory. The study also designed an education program, including teaching guidelines, by referring to literature related to fashion accessory design, teaching guideline. The study conducted 12 experiments based on the results from April to June 2014. After revising and supplementing the teaching method, 2nd set of experiments were conducted from July to September 2014. Each class lasted for one and a half hour every week, and the class was composed of 6 students, 1 instructor and 1 volunteer. After each class, interviews were done to collect student opinions about the curriculum and material. Total experiment results and interview were reflected in constructing the final education program. The result of the experiments and interviews showed that selecting the accessory materials for class must be selected carefully. The visually-impaired students were very sensitive to the size, texture, shape, hole size of beads and length of material. After the experiments, all the students were able to distinguish the size and shape of the beads well, and finished the accessories using the given materials. The study verified that there is a need for another approach when educating the visually impaired about fashion accessory design. Many factors need to be considered from selecting materials to class contents. This study will contribute as a reference to fashion accessory making education as well as other design education for the visually impaired.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.97-115
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• 2022

The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.73-83
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to contribute in developing guidebooks that can be used in the courses of needlework study by comparing and analyzing the contents and organizations of needlework-related teaching resources available at the present university and fashion-related educational institutions. This research could help us train technical human resources to be highly adaptable in industrial settings. The results of this study showed that the overall organization of contents is mostly divided into such categories as needlework kits, basic hand sewing, seam finishing, partial needlework and decorative needlework. The study results also indicated that such content organization must be considered in basic needlework/sewing processes and that each content needs to provide more various and detailed information by reflecting recent trends in design. Partial needlework has different applications in terms of interlining attachment, subsidiary materials, or sewing techniques; therefore, consistent descriptions and standard guidelines should be given according to what material is used and which design is planned. This study found that most teaching resources covered only needlework or sewing techniques without giving specific descriptions of types of materials, lining and interlining that can have great influence on sewing methods and instructions on how to use the materials. These findings suggest that the teaching resources need to add further technical instructions for the proper use of materials especially in response to the recent release of brand-new materials and sewing machines in the market.

• 복식
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• 제51권2호
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• pp.43-52
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is to study the aesthetic character of a mosaic which is expressed in the Modern Costume. The methods of the research were by literature and it was mainly done with reference to master's theses, doctor's theses, separate volumes, periodicals, domestic and overseas fashion magazines and internet on the subject. The result of the research appears as rhythm, exoticism, abstraction, mystery, recreation by disintegration. First, rhythm appears in a sense of free rhythm with the method of arranging motives and the kinds of materials varying. Second, exoticism gives impression with such motives as Oriental designs, African designs and the geometric designs of nature occupying the surface. Third, abstraction displays motives such as unrealistic fashion. Fourth, mystery gives a cyber-related impression with the help of such scientific materials as fluorescent plastics, metal and glass. Fifth, recreation pelves an aesthetic impression by reorganizing the costume with the disintegration and transformation of Industrial materials such as plastics, metal and glass, etc. based on their unique colors and quality.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.15-23
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• 2003

Chestnut trees have been used as a dyeing material, which are grow naturally, are cultivated all the area of Korea. So, there is abundant amount of the materials and they have better colorfastness than other natural dyeing materials. But chestnut husk extract is good at silk and wool fabrics, not cotton fabrics. That's why many methods using chestnut extraction for dyeing are being studied. But most of them depend on treatment method with chemical material which doesn't fit with the aim, using natural materials. Therefore in this research, we used protein pre-treatment method which is dyeing chestnut husk extract after treating at cotton fabrics with bean sap. And we studied the effect of dyeability of chestnut husk extract to cotton fabrics. As a result of pre-treatment of bean sap at cotton fabrics, dyeability was increased. Besides laundering fastness, dry cleaning fastness, perspiration fastness and light fastness were almost increased.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.99-112
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to study India's traditional embroidery method, Mirror Work, and to evaluate the examples of contemporary costumes as well as the applications of art to clothing that have been influenced by this technique, in order to expand its usage for creation of a new fashion image. Research in the literature and application of works related to Mirror Work have demonstrated: First of all, as a traditional embroidery method that represents the folk art of India, Mirror Work displays unique methods used in different regions and the way that various methods and materials were combined by the use of mirrors, beads, and $appliqu{\acute{e}}$. Secondly, it was found that the presentation of Mirror Work in the $pr{\hat{e}}t$-a-porte collection is based on a traditional embroidery method using both developed materials and adapted methods to express traditional reproducibility, geometric simplicity, and aesthetic characteristics of complex decorations. Thirdly, new plasticity for art to wear clothing can be created through various methods aside from embroidery, for example by a technique of wrapping crochet laces and tapes around the mirror for decorative purposes. Based on these results it can be inferred that, from the perspective of multiple forms for decorations, Mirror Work shares multiple forms of personal aesthetic goals through the mirror's unique quality for expression and enhanced images of artistic decorative art. Also, the introduction of traditional materials and methods for today's folk art and traditional costumes can be the subject of unique aesthetic characteristics based on different perspectives of the recreation of tradition. Finally, it can further create a new plasticity within the globalization phenomena.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.152-159
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• 2003

The considerations on the costumes of the past, which have been conducted to the present for the purpose of creating a new design, are not just a simple imitation, but playing a role as a re-creation of fashion. A corset, one of the underwear items, has an important role to exaggerate, emphasize, or modify the beauty of a human body. It also contributes to form a beautiful silhouette of the outerwear. Specifically, the role of a corset today is more than a physical modification: making an underwear into an outerwear; using detailed decorations or materials of an underwear in the part of other garments. In doing these, decorative functions of costumes have been more and more emphasized. Therefore, a study on the composition or design of a corset would be an important study on the garment item that reflects fashions required by this age. The significance of the study is in its potential to provide reference materials needed in creating new underwear designs or the designs that can be made into outerwear products, by trying and producing a corset of the past. To make the corset, the definition of underwear and the characteristics of a corset were explored based on the review of the materials in the foreign museums, relevant photographs, and literature. The corset was made after understanding its minute details and examining its patterns. Pattern drawing was carried out using a Pattern CAD. As an intial phase of reproducing the corsets in the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, the scope of the present study was limited to the late Renaissance age, when corsets began to appear.