• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.188-208
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• 2013

This study aims to find out factors of historical specialty and cultural ethnicity that influenced the formation of Spanish fashion as well as examine the characteristics of Spanish fashion by comparing its historical costumes, such as folk costume and court costume with contemporary fashion of major Spanish designers in the 20th century. Documental investigation and analysis of visual materials were used as research method. The study results are as follows: The major factors that affected the characteristics of Spanish fashion in the history include the geographical features, invasion of foreign nations, cultural heritage of various ethnic groups, strengthening of the national power, advancement of international trading through the newly developed routes, and influence of religions such as Christianity, Islam, and Judaism. Featuring the coexistence of variety and heterogeneity, the ethnicity reflected in the culture harmoniously embraces various spirits such as conflict and coexistence, individualism and collectivism or regionalism, and exclusion and tolerance of religions. In addition, the characteristics in the cultural phenomena include passion, sensuousness, individualism, sense of reality, sense of chic, and the people-centeredness. The basic Characteristics of Spanish fashion include the sensuality of excessive zeal, decorativeness of gorgeous handicrafts, exoticism of people-centered variety, extreme contrast of harmony, touching artistry of chic, and fantastic surrealistic wits.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.396-407
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• 2011

Various media are expanding the fantastic expression methods and sphere wider than now. As an intermediate for expressing fully self-desires, fashion of the day has surfacing an important concept called fantastic that does not exist and surpasses reality in expressing the ideal body of a desiring body. Goth and cospre are personal expressions of movie costumes that visualize virtual reality as representative of fantastic fashions. The fantastic is a modem concept putting together SF, fantasy, magical realism, fable, and surrealism. Studies in fashion fields related to fantastic have treated fantastic illiberally and peripherally owing to the centering on the SF genre or fantasy. The thesis that dealt with an important fashion as an external favorite as well as the socio-cultural contents of the expressed body in genre expression remains inadequate. In research methods, this study carried out theoretical reviews on the concept and characteristic of the fantastic through literature data that includes local and international theoretical books, monographs, and dissertations that are related to the fantastic. The experimental analysis was executed by collecting fashion works shown after 2000 and included in special fashion editions, collection magazines, Internet materials, and monographs. The results show that the categorization of expression characteristic (according to fantastic spheres) appeared as 5 kinds such as uncanny borderline, cyborg grotesque, heroic superman, myth allegory, and unconscious meaninglessness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.597-605
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• 2010

This study is about the expression types and characteristics of Trompe l'oeil in modern fashion. The study defines the concept of Trompe l'oeil, examines the Trompe l'oeil in the surrealist works from which the Trompe l'oeil derives from, and analyzes the works that have emerged since 2000. The study used a collection of magazines such as Vogue, Gap, Fashion News, and the Internet. According to the findings, the expression types of Trompe l'oeil in modern fashion were seen in the human body, the wearing style, the details, and accessory effects of clothes. The modern fashion design using the Trompe l'oeil based on such external expressions was characterized by the following: first, the fashion design destroyed the concept of common sense and expressed the purity of the human spirit by revealing the human body hidden in clothes from the combination of clothes and the human body with surrealism. Second, the details or accessories of clothes were printed or painted as if they existed. Pleasure was expressed by applying Trompe l'oeil to the wearing methods and forms of clothes through the optical illusion of materials or colors. Third, the effects of an optical illusion were displayed by transforming and distorting the wearing style and reversing the front, back, exterior and interior of clothes; this optical illusion characterized the deconstruction expressed through the transformation of ideas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.14-26
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• 2009

This study is to investigate makeup shown in fashion collections of Christian Dior based on semiotical theory of Morris. Morris's theory developed from semiotics of Peirce composed of syntactics, semantics and pragmatics. Therefore, in the case of analysis of fashion makeup, syntactics investigates signs of forms, colors, textures and materials of makeup, semantics finds out meanings of the signs of syntactics and pragmatics analyzes aesthetic characteristics which the signs of syntactics and the meanings of semantics symbolize. Fashion makeup in Christian Dior Collections were expressed experimentalism sign, multi-culture sign and popularity sign. Experimentalism signs were expressed with graphic makeup and cyber techno makeup and multi-culture signs were done with ethnic make up and retro makeup. In addition, goth make up and hitch makeup showed popularity signs. This study found that the three types of signs were considered to reflect aesthetics of the contemporary fashion. Also, this study could conclude that fashion makeup was able to be interpreted by Morris' semiotics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.13-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.911-922
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• 2002

This research aims to study comparatively on the aesthetic characteristics of the Technology Art and Technology Fashion Images in the 20th century. For this purpose, literature survey and demonstrative study were undertaken. The results were as follows ; As the concept of the art in the 20th century has been broadened by the development of technology and the creative application of it in the art, the relationship of the art and fashion has been much closer. The Technology Art and Technology Fashion Images in the 20th century have been developed by using technology itself and its artifacts directly or indirectly to express their attitude on the advancement of technology of the time. The plasticity of the Technology Art and Technology Fashion Images in the 20th century was identified as geometrical forms, high-tech materials, futuristic colors and lights and dynamic expression. The internal meanings of the Technology Art and Technology Fashion Images in the 20th century were identified as functionality, arrant-garde, utopian future orientation to improve human's life.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.30-47
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• 2013

In the modern fashion industry, efficiency has been increasing thanks to development of computer graphics, IT technology, and digitalization. Unlike the past when fashion design heavily depended on handwork, digitalization of fashion industry makes fabrication time shorter and enables designers to adopt comprehensive expression, generating high value-added product. The Apparel CAD, an example of the digitalized fashion industry, has been developed from 2D system into a system providing 3D simulation. Digital clothing can be determined as an activity of designers using the tool in order to fabricate pattern and simulate its designed clothes in the virtual space of computer. In this study, physical properties of eight materials, which can be utilized on a par with current fashion trend, have been specified. For more sophisticated investigation, external appearance of the material was investigated by 3D scanning. In order to examine the physical properties of fabric specimens, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) measurements and other physical property measurements were made. With the results, virtual material and clothes were simulated via CLO 3D, one of 3D apparel CAD systems. Then, virtual fabrics and clothes of similar types were generated and analyzed.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.771-783
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• 2008

In this paper, I studied the trends of naturalism reflected on the fashion trends in 2000s, and the design characteristics of naturalism showed in modern fashions, based on the information about women's wear trend serviced by www.samsungdesign.net. The analysis was focused on the Comme des Garcons collections, and the results are as follows. First, in modern society, the scientific and realistic concept of naturalism was being shifted to nature-friendly and actual concept which harmonized with nature conceived to be important in environments. Second, the interests on well-being and LOHAS introduced the actual naturalism, and the naturalism became a prominent trend at turning times to 21th century. Third, the concepts of naturalism showed in modern fashions could be categorized into ecology, primitive, retro and exotic trends. Finally, the Comme des Garcons collections did not follow a passing fashion trend only, instead they formed unformalized natural silhouette and details in the view of new analysis and philosophy of themselves. The silhouette represented a natural sense in harmony with colors of simple materials.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.87-99
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest a bag design focusing on the symbol of Bo patterns by developing a pattern-based textile which forms a Korean design with a modern sense of beauty as well as following the conventions of traditional cultures, a design which is based on the previous study on formative characteristics of Bo patterns. That is, seven pieces of motifs are considered as proper patterns that have a symbol suitable for the materials of bags, showing their individual beauty well. This includes Horomum (longevity and prosperity of desendants), Banjangmum (eternity and samsara), Jeonbomum (treasure and luck), Seobomum (innate good fortune), Bangseungmum (it means that things don't break in harmony with one another), Bomum (embroidered patches for royal family representing justice), and Seogakmum (blessed life). With these seven motifs, we developed textile patterns and printed them through DTP. Then, we created a fashion bag design with a high quality using durable canvas fabrics. Therefore, a fashion bag with the Bo patterns symbol has a propitious symbol designed with a propitious shape, not to mention its formative beauty. It is expected to have value as a fashion art item by being redesigned for benevolent patterns with a modern image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.31-49
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• 2003

The Purpose of this research is to examine and contrast the cultural characteristics of the street fashion in new generations of Korea and Japan. We also intended to help clothing companies understand the current trend in this new generation. As the method for street fashion analysis. various literature, internet information and new media materials were utilized. Key observations obtained are as following First, they pursue a complex image. New generations seem to admix images from different areas to create a synthetic image, rather than adopting a single image; Second, practicality is an important factor. They Pursue a sense of their own unique trend: Third, distinction. The difference in society values between Koreans and Japanese is incorporated. The Korean new generation considers the traditional moral principles as important social values. In contrast the Japanese new generation is greatly influenced by the open sexuality culture ; Fourth. public ownership and sharing of the culture. There is a gradual deviation from a dominating unidirectional influence from one country on another. Now the two countries are influencing each other ; Fifth, sense. There are numerous fashion items and generalized total coordination. New generations express more active and creative fashion sense in those fashion items.