• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.109-119
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• 2015

A wide variety of fashion materials focus on good drape property and softness. Among the recently emerging materials, Neoprene that consists of laminated knit on both sides of foamed neoprene sheet seeks a unique appearance that is considerably deviated from the current flow. Diverse processing methods for the newly released material heighten the value in function and beauty among trends of fashion materials by enhancing the appearance, touch and material property. Laser-cutting technique is one of the processing methods that is consistently used in the textile area. This study aimed to find the basic materials for applicability of laser-cutting technique to clothing goods after consideration of the changes in material property and drape shape, and to furthermore enforce different pattern conditions to Neoprene material, one of the newly attractive materials in the fashion area. In this study, we applied laser-cutting technique to Neoprene material sample under different conditions of pattern appearance, size and distance, based on current evaluation and theoretical background of Neoprene material, fashion trend and laser-cutting technique. Drape property can improve and the drape direction could also be controlled by a wide variety of laser-cutting techniques applied to Neoprene materials that have uniquely different appearances from most other textiles. This technique could be applied to the design for diversification of Neoprene clothing goods in the future.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.779-798
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to propose the direction of veganism-based fashion design in environmental and animal protection through the theoretical consideration of vegan fashion and the analysis of the practical design characteristics of veganism in Stella McCartney's fashion. The research was conducted through literature research and case studies. After investigating the concept and characteristics of vegan fashion, focusing on previous studies and various fashion-related Internet data, Stella McCartney's fashion was examined with particular attention on vegan characteristics. The results of the study are as follows: First, imitative nature pursues animal and environmental protection, but the motif or appearance is a characteristic of pursuing a multi-purpose design that imitates animals and nature. Second, expression of value is based on slow fashion, simplicity, and sustainable minimal design. It is expressed indirectly by pursuing permanence, simplicity, and long-wearable design, or directly expressing vegan values through phrases expressed in performances or costumes in the collection. Third, alternative eco-friendliness is characterized by using cruelties-free materials such as faux fur, recycling materials, new bio-materials, and regenerated materials. These vegan characteristics are comprehensively and organically expressed in the works of the collection, and through this, sustainable and eco-friendly vegan fashion is pursued. It is anticipated that by deriving the vegan fashion characteristics of Stella McCartney, who represents vegan fashion, it will be possible to provide the basis for practical direction and design methods for fashion brands aiming for vegan fashion styles.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.117-123
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• 2008

When it comes to clothing design, after the mid 20th century some internationally renowned designers began to recognize the pivotal role clothing materials play in attracting the hearts of customers. Accordingly, they started to take advantage of new clothing materials in the sector of clothing design. While the theme of fashionable clothing products shifts from style and color to clothing materials, fashion designers place the quality of materials at the center of clothing designs. Fashion designers also realize that good quality of materials should be used to boost the value of products as well as to satisfy the conditions of creativity, practicality and aesthetics. In particular, as the non-apparel industry in which clothing materials are the most important aspect between fashionable color, silhouette and details is enhancing their attention to develop various materials in order to meet the needs of customers, the fashion industry places a high premium on textile design which is the pinnacle of expressing emotion on clothing materials. In addition, the industry raises awareness of developing more sophisticated and differentiated materials. Our thesis covers the way how to apply $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern to clothing design on the basis of research. In order to put that research into practical use, we produced textiles which effectively display $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern. Before this process, we tried to ensure that radial grating created $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern effects. To this end, the weaving process was applied, depending on whether light can penetrate textiles or not. Then, we manufactured test-products using $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.51-60
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• 2018

This research focuses on the development of upcycled denim fashion designs, whichis a more specific category within general upcycled fashion design. Characteristics of upcycled fashion design, which has been identified previously by researchers, include the following traits: environmentality, uniqueness, aesthetic appeal, availability, convertibility, and deconstructivity. The expression principles include recycling, substitution, recombination, and reduction. The result of the analysis of the denim fashion design characteristics, which is based on the theoretical analysis, has found. The external expression pattern consists of the deconstruction and reconstitution of materials, the avant-garde style and convertibility, the ability to mix and match materials and techniques, the production of zero waste, and the use of layering. The expression techniques used included decomposition, depaysement, weaving, cut-off, collage, assemblage, overlapping, connecting, attaching, and stitching. The inner meanings were identified as economicality through recycling, convertibility through rearranging, and the rarity and value of hand-made products. The result of the research applying the identified characteristics are as follows. First, developing and creating designs using modified denim and sub-materials with various expression patterns and techniques could provide completely new images unlike existing denim products. Second, modifying the details while maintaining the basic format of denim clothing could provide unique and new possibilities for upcycled denim fashion design. Third, environment-friendly models with creative designs were developed by recycling used denim materials. This reduced waste and energy while maximizing the use of resources. This study expects contribute to upcycled fashion design research by recognizing the unique characteristics and value of denim material.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.64-72
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• 2004

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the changing fashion image of the glossy materials including metal, leather, vinyl, latex, plastic etc. from 1960's to the present. Glossy materials used in the second half of the 20th century showed a restricted image combined with a specific social circumstance. They expressed a reflection of young and future-oriented space period of 1960s. Many designers like Paco Rabanne and Andre Courreges were concerned with the fashion of space age and expressed that image with leather and synthetic materials including silver leather, metal chain armor, and plastic appeared as the keynote of fashion. In 1970's, glossy material was the symbol of avant-garde and rebellious attitude by the punk fashion. They maximized glamourous look of 1980s, and cyber look with an expectation for a new millenium of 1990s. On the other side, glossy materials seem to be used as a source of various inspiration of fashion designer in the 21st century. Also, some of the past images, for example space look and glamourous look, are revived in the 21 st century by the form of modified design.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.59-72
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to understand how 19th Century's romanticism fashion is expressed in modern fashion and to investigate their relationship. The materials for study of Post-modern fashion after the 1990s are collected and analyzed from ${\ulcorner}Gap\;Collections{\lrcorner}$. The characteristics of romanticism such as sensuality, ornamentation, exoticism and mingler, which were demonstrated in the previous study, are analyzed as follows in the modern fashion. ${\cdot}$Sensuality was represented by exaggerating the human body with silhouette of past romantic fashion, making the human body mysterious with see-through material including romantic patterns and ornaments, and emphasizing human body line using thin drape-like materials. ${\cdot}$Ornamentation was created by combining skills brought from the past with newly developed techniques and materials so that it provides gorgeousness. ${\cdot}$Exoticism was expressed in more diverse exotic patterns, colors, accessories and details because of accelerated internationalization. ${\cdot}$Mingler was achieved by using materials which does not seem to be suitable for romanticism, and mixing of contrastive or heterogeneous patterns and materials. It was caused by the scientific development and trend of respecting diversity. Romanticism increases the diversity and possibility of new point of views in fashion, It also shows the desires to seek inner peace adopting images of different periods and culture.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.92-100
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• 2007

The most emphasized materials in the modern fashion are the elastic materials with the advent of sportswear. In the area of elastic materials, the technology of foaming plastics became main research area. As novel materials, latex and neoprene based fabrics are emerging for the elastic material, among those elastic material staged by renowned fashion designers. We searched those works through literature and pictures, and examined the physical properties. Neoprene composite with filament knit fabrics are excellent in strength and water-proof. Latex fabrics gave smooth feel and elastic feel. These may be adequate for aesthetic textile material. Based on these characteristics, these techno-texitiles will find broad applications in the fashionable materials.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.68-84
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• 2020

The purpose of this thesis is to suggest a Practical Plan for ethical consumption by reviewing the category of Vegan Fashion and investigating its Social Value of vegan fashion. This will be achieved through investigating the papers and official home pages of 13 selected Vegan Fashion brands. It was found that in terms of use of materials such as leather, fur and organic fibers the brands can be divided into three sections: fur-free, cruelty-free and perfect vegan. A Practical Plan is suggested based on the aspects of production, consumption, distribution and education. Firstly, the provider should be required to understand vegan materials deeply, it is also desirable for them to get vegan certifications. Secondly, the seller should also understand about vegan materials, and be able to explain this to consumers. The education from the seller is vital and the meaning of logos and associated contents used by the label should be clearly explained to consumers. Thirdly, the association of consumers, and fashion brands should cooperate to enhance the level of general understanding in society further, this should influence new laws, that address ethical issues regarding the use of fur in fashion. Environmental problem of the future might be reduced if the stakeholders in Vegan Fashion are cooperatively and actively trying to educate the general population and make Vegan Fashion popular and ethical consumption popular.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.59-67
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• 2006

In textile industry of $21^{st}$ century, to develop materials and designs in fashion industry is being recognized widely as an urgent problem. In other words, the reality is that we must offer scarcity value and unique materials, and make a positive effort in a time when consumers' individuality appeals and an interest in fashion becomes higher. Felt is not only the oldest material in human history, but also a technique, and its applications are being handed down broadly. I have made various materials based mainly on a traditional felt technique using merino wool and nuno felt technique felting merino wool to cotton gauze. In nuno felt thing, I could observe that as wool and cotton was created as a single composite material, each material's aesthetic, sensuous, functional and emotional description became much more diversified. The purpose of this study is to produce fashion materials using materials with rich texture to meet the consumers' preference and diversity which are increasingly individualized, to design them and to seek possibility of developing differentiated wool materials which can satisfy the consumers' individuality demand and preference.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2015

Acceleration of the fashion cycle has caused problems of environmental pollution because consumers made a lot of waste of clothes. To solve them, upcycle design has been uprised. This study researched the present condition through recent cases of upcycle design. The standard of collected cases is focused on used products which was already run out once and then has been recreated by being recreated with new design. Through this study, there is a purpose to provide solution of environmental pollutions and a right direction of upcycle fashion design. Collected cases are classified into five production methods. First method is Melting and Compressing, which it melts or compresses materials. Second method is Gathering and Combining, which it gathers or combines each different materials. Third method is Cutting and Dividing, which it cuts or divides products materials. Fourth method is Mixing and Changing, which it mixes materials, adds design elements, and changes of purpose. Final things are classified with multiplicatively used factors which are already divided.