• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.489-500
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• 2012

This work surveys the trend and dissolution characteristics in headdress that appear in Jean Paul Gaultier's collection. Along with a related literature review, a total of 903 headdress pieces shown in collections 40 times (excluding the common caps and hats) were analyzed, covering from 2001S/S to 2010 F/W of Jean Paul Gaultier's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter. The headdress trend indicated in his collections was divided into such subgroup forms of folklore, usage of natural things, usage of artificial things, religion, retro, scarf, variations in headgear, mask and veil, atypical type and abstract. Such an expression tendency was so unique and mixed characteristic that it was hard to define its form and structure thanks to enlargement and exaggeration, extremity in ornaments, and use of foreign materials, which led to creative dynamics. Gaultier's headdress also reflected the following characteristics: first, expression of difference indicative of time deconstruction; second, uncertainty of meanings via deconstruction; third, text interactivity via deconstruction of gender and material adopted; fourth, decentralization through dissolution of the Orient and the Occident.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.29-37
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• 2008

Polar amino groups of the waste SS(silk-sericin) were modified by two isocyanate compounds of MOI[2-(methacryloyloxy)ethyl isocyanate] and AOI [2-(acryloyloxy)ethyl isocyanate]. When the MOISS (MOI-modified silk sericin) or AOISS(AOI-modified silk sericin) was pressed hot, vinyl groups in the MOI or AOI were polymerized and then the flexible and transparent films were obtained. Tensile moduli and strengths of the MOISS films were significantly improved as the MOI contents increased. By the addition of the isocyanate compounds, silk sericin films exhibited lower solubility to the distilled water($80^{\circ}C$) and also lower swell ratio to the distilled water(room temperature). In the effect of tensile properties and restraining the water swelling, MOI was better than AOI. BOD(biochemical oxygen demand)/TOD(theoretical oxygen demand) of the pure sericin film was almost 100% perfect level after 10 days immersion into the activated sludge. With increasing isocyanate content reacted with polar amino groups, BOD/TOD decreased. When more than 50 mol% of polar amino groups remained unreacted, sericin films could retain more biodegradability. Comparing with MOI from the viewpoint of biodegradability, AOI was more effective.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.276-283
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to develop an effective dyeing process for black color on the silk fabrics, using natural Indigo, Madder, Amur cork tree, Alder, Logwood, and Gallnut. All natural dye materials were water-extracted, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Seven different processes were carried out and the color differences(${\Delta}E$) of black color with each process from the chemical black dyed fabric were compared. The light, washing, and rubbing fastness were evaluated. The black dyeing of the silk fabrics was well carried and excellent black color was obtained in every methods. The profound black color could be obtained by the subtractive mixture of the three primary colors of red, yellow, and blue in the order of indigo(blue) - amur cork tree(yellow) - madder or lac(red). Black color was efficiently obtained by iron mordant when logwood or alder fruit was used. The color difference(${\Delta}E$) from the black color with chemical dyestuff was the lowest in the indigo - amur cork tree - lac - iron method. Light fastness and washing fastness were excellent in all dyeing processes, showing grade 5. The fastness to rubbing was excellent as shown grade 5 in the dry samples of logwood - iron process and alder fruit - iron process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.293-304
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\boxDr$Eigamono-katary$\boxUl$This book is a novel de-scribed the Royal Court from 883 till 1107. In this book many kinds of Garments Orna-ments Colors and Materials were mentioned. But in this paper 69 kinds of Garments and Ornaments were reserched and the rest will be reported in the next paper, The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. All the things of this book were reflections of the reality in Heian period. 2. The main styling of that period was a little bit soft but the straight silhouette were fashioned, . In that time Clothing had a special meaning and the manner for a fashion was very important, .3 In the female garments Karakoromo were developed many kinds of pattern by dyeing method, Especially the Surizome was fashioned very much. 4. there were many kinds of gray tone like as clerical robe and mouning dress. This was the effection of Buddism style. 5. The decoration of fablics and garments were usualized for instance smooding and luster by beating and starch sewuing a piece of gold silver and shell nakabe and knot bend. Shawl Yumaki and Kosizasi was a charming point of that time, . 6, hair decoration shose parasol rain coat etc, . were developed and use freuently.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.81-90
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• 2013

There has been current trend running through each generation. All the leading areas in the fashion, art, architect industries etc. are absorbing the needs of the mass users and getting popular and high attentions from the society. One of recent trends are the interior design utilizing the aged style of materials such as bricks, antique and vintage objets. It is applied not only for the cafeteria, movie theater, museum but the cultural space. It reflects the brand-new and Utopian interpretation of design longings for the nostalgia and the old ages. This goes back to the picturesque aesthetics in the 1980s. The term "picturesque" means "picture-like". And it originated from the Utopian vision taken from the landscape paintings of English aristocrat's trip to Europe. it mainly reflects people's longing for the nostalgia and their the happy days in the past. In recent days of bad economies, it has been found in various areas from people's desire for the prosperity in the last days. The objective of this study is to examine the up-current trend of picturesque aesthetics and see its characteristics and how it can be applied to the interior design. And the feasibility study for the necessity of the picturesque aesthetics, any spatioperceptual elements and capable space for human beings to be made for an eclectic space in the desolate modern day life.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.669-675
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• 2009

A study has been made on the preparation of liquid resin of non-solvent and non-discoloration type for replacement of the soft PVC at room temperature. A new synthetic process was developed by structure-control design of polyurethane synthesis using pre-polymer and polyols as curing agent. The optimum recipe was made according to macro-glycols, molecular weight and reaction conditions, and the final products indicated that the mechanical properties such as tensile strength, tear strength and flexibility was very excellent than PVC products. Also, viscosity, hardness and color operations of the final products can be controlled by this system. And yellowing property by UV and NOx gas was improved from the various additive experiment.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.355-366
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of eye shadow color(brown, purple), lipstick color(red, red purple, and yellow red), and lipstick tone(vivid, light, dull, and dark) and clothing tone(vivid, light, dull, and dark) on image formation. Sets of stimulus and response scales(7 point semantic) were used as experimental materials. The stimuli consisted of 64 color photos manipulated with the combination of eye shadow color, lipstick color, lipstick tone, and clothing tone using computer simulation. The subjects were 384 female undergraduates living in Gyeongnam Province. Image factor of the stimulus was composed of 4 different components: attractiveness, visibility, cuteness, and stability. Eye shadow color, lipstick tone and clothing tone independently influenced on visibility, cuteness, and stability. Lipstick color independently influenced on the stability. In color coordination of clothing and makeup of the same hue, 1) visibility image can be created by the coordination of eye shadow color with lipstick color or clothing tone, or lipstick color with lipstick tone. 2) Cuteness image can be produced by the coordination of eye shadow color with lipstick or clothing tone, lipstick color with lipstick or clothing tone. 3) Stability image can be showed by the coordination of eye shadow color with lipstick tone.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.15-27
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to find texture which suitable for the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age. The study was carried out 2 parts. The first part was to choose the pattern fitted in the body shape of women in the middle age, and the second part was wearing test with 3 different textured acryl knitted jacket(half milano, milano, jacquard). The usable data of the test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics (frequency and one way-ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B(Brand: Morado) were better than the rest of them(pattern A: Trieste, pattern C: Escalier). It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket with jacquard were better than the rest of them. Acryl knitted Jacket of women in the middle age should made of jacquard. Therefore it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it was opposite results that a general knitted fabric pattern was made smaller than a woven jacket. So, it was necessary that the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age follow a similar site tolerance such as a woven jacket. This result was due to a radical change of a middle age women's body shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.29-46
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• 2009

Aiming at finding symbolistic meanings and characteristics of makeup in Chinese Beijing Opera("BO"), this study formulated a theoretical framework mainly from literature in the Symbolism and symbolistically analyzed materials related to BO makeup from literature, internet web pages and illustrated news concerning performing arts. Main objects to analyze are the characteristics of four main roles in BO and the patterns, symbols, ornaments and traditions of Beijing Opera facial makeup("BOFM"). Four main roles are Sheng, Tan, Ching and Chou, categorized by gender, age, social position and personality. The result to analyze symbolistic meanings and characteristics of makeups for the roles in BO are as follows: the patterns and colors of BOFM function as explanations to help audiences understand each role's personality and dramatic situations as well as provide hints about the development and ending of an opera: that is, BO makeup is a communicative intermediary between audiences and actors in BO. It tends to follow the stereotypes, which conventionally dress and exaggerate the characters of roles, and copy the traditional Chinese perception about colors. Thus, by the metaphysical and typical expression of BOFM, Chinese people have not been pursuing the realism in opera but applying BO makeup to a mutual communication method between audiences and performing artists as to share their collective cultural heritages and spirits. Threfore, BO makeup has been an interacting language between the two entities and grown within the history of BO as a beauty art to highlight a BO by its unique systems, ornaments and beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.124-136
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• 2009

This Study is on the Punggongyubodoryake. Punggongyubodoryak was the records and pictures written by Ohgyeongmun(吳景文, Painter) and Gangbonpungeon(岡本豊彦, a Japanese painter, 1773~1745). in 1832. Those records and pictures were about the gifts which Korea's King(宣祖, 1567-1608) sent to Doyotomi Hideyosi(豊臣秀吉, Pungsinsugil) in 1590. Most of the gifts were of the Korean costume, which meant that Korea recognized Doyotomi Hideyosi as the new general of Japan, Tokugawa Shogunate(幕府將軍). The pictures of every Clothing in punggongyubodoryake described forms of every cloth and delineated ornamental patterns and sizes of clothing as closely as actual, they were clothes of the Middle period of Chosun. the author of the study inferred that it would be one of the impotent materials in the history of the Korean traditional costume. Among the clothes, there were several danryeongs(단령, ceremonial coat), okgwan (玉冠 woman headdress with) and paeok(佩玉, pendents with jade stings) and choongdan(中單 ceremonial undercoat) and Sang(裳, ceremonial Skirts for man), gyeontongsuseulran (肩通袖膝襕, chinese coat) was recorded in punggongyubodoryake. they were not a set of clothes for ceremonial costume but a mixture of men's and women's costume, of korean and abroad styles. the author inferred that this phenomenon was actually a good proof that the gifts were sent to Hideyosi only as courtesy, which meant for downgrading the receiver.