• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-10
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the structural properties of 100% wool fabrics knitted with various stitch types and to evaluate dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying. Materials were weft-knitted from twenty-four different stitches with 7 gauge using a computerized flatbed knitting machine. Weight, thickness, density, and length were measured. A domestic washing machine and a tumble dryer were used for the shrinkage test. The results are as follows: Knitted fabrics were divided into 3 groups based on weight per unit area. Porous knits show light weight whilst milano, pintuck, rib stitches belong to the heaviest group. A positive correlation between weight and thickness was found and the same result was obtained for wale density and weight. Dimensional shrinkage of knitted fabrics was increased during repetitive wet cleaning and drying regardless of knit stitches. Especially, fabrics knitted with float, tuck, cable, and links & links stitches samples were contracted more than 15% in the first treatment whereas 2x1 rib stitch showed 1% shrinkage rate. Fisherman and milano stitches contracted in both course and wale direction with similar shrinkage rates. However, porous knits with float and tuck stitches shrank in course direction by 20% as well as cable samples contracted from 5% to 20% after repeated washing and drying. On the other hand, 30% and 15% contraction of wale direction occurred in orderly float and links & links stitches, respectively. Machine dried knits have a higher shrinkage rate than air-dried knits, but the drying method did not affect to the direction of contraction. In conclusion, variations of knit, tuck, and float stitches affect knit construction and dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying of wool knitted fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.260-266
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• 2022

Cellulose fiber is a material used in various fields. It is the most used type of fiber because of its excellent hygroscopicity and dyeability. Recently, as natural fiber materials have been highlighted due to the influence of eco-friendliness and well-being, bamboo fiber has become a commonly used eco-friendly fiber. Cellulose fibers are part of the -OH hydroxyl group, which means they are more chemically reactive than synthetic fibers. In this study, the cationization properties of bamboo-cotton blended fabrics cationized using CHPTAC (3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) in the PDC (padding-drying-curing) method were investigated. Various characteristics according to cationization were studied through elemental analysis, FT-IR (fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy) analysis, X-ray diffraction analysis, TGA (thermogravimetric) analysis, and SEM (scanning electron microscope) analysis. The nitrogen content of the cationized bamboo-cotton blended fabric increased with an increase in the concentration of the cationizing agent CHPTAC, and it was seen to be highly bound to cellulose molecules. As a result of the FT-IR analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics were seen to be typical cellulose. As a result of the X-ray diffraction analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics showed typical cellulose I structures. As a result of the X-ray diffraction analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics showed typical cellulose I structures. As the cationization progressed, micropores appeared on the surface of the blended fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.471-478
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• 2022

In roadside workplaces, more attention should be paid to the safety of workers. The roadside workers underestimate the effect of the brightness of their clothes and judge that drivers will recognize them easily, and the drivers misjudge that the roadside workers are far away and that the vehicle can be stopped in sufficient time. Therefore, customized safety education reflecting this and wearing work clothes with certified visibility functions are required. In Korea, it is not compulsory for roadside workers and vehicle guide attendants to wear work clothes with a visibility function. In this study, the distance ahead perceived by drivers was measured using manikins wearing certified and non-certified reflective safety vests. The perception distance of the non-certified reflective safety vest was 1.4 times longer than that of the certified reflective safety vest, thus confirming the importance of wearing a certified reflective safety vest. To prevent roadside workers from suffering traffic accidents, we propose the enactment of a law that makes it mandatory for them to wear high-visibility safety clothing. Specifically, Article 32 of the Enforcement Regulation of the Road Traffic Act should include high-visibility safety clothing in life protection equipment, and additionally, to prevent secondary accidents, we propose the enactment of a law requiring the installation and wearing of certified reflective safety vests in vehicles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.497-507
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• 2023

This study measured the effect 3D printing products comprised of different materials and shapes on heat transfer in clothing to derive fundamental data on thermal comfort among clothing comfort. The variables were three types of material (EVA foam, TPU-10%, TPU-10%+EVA), two types of shape (without holes, with holes), and two types of covers(without cover, with cover). All samples (12 types) prepared by combining these variables were placed on the hot plate set at 36℃, and the surface temperature was measured at three points for 10 minutes. The surface temperature change was dependent on the material, shape, and cover of the sample. The sample printed with TPU exhibited higher temperature transfer compared to the EVA foam sample after 10 mins. In addition, the temperature transfer was better when there were holes, and rate decreased when the sample was covered with fabric. We confirmed that material selection of the pad and thermal conductivity of the cover are extremely important in solving thermal stress to the human body caused by functional clothing with protectors. Additionally, as the protector, it is recommended to design the outer shell with a passage, such as a hole, to allow the rapid transfer of heat to the external environment.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Information and Commucation Sciences Conference
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• 2022.05a
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• pp.2-5
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• 2022

With the advent of deep learning and the rapid development of ICT (Information and Communication Technology), research using artificial intelligence is being actively conducted in various fields of society such as politics, economy, and culture and so on. Deep learning-based artificial intelligence technology is subdivided into various domains such as natural language processing, image processing, speech processing, and recommendation system. In particular, as the industry is advanced, the need for a recommendation system that analyzes market trends and individual characteristics and recommends them to consumers is increasingly required. In line with these technological developments, this paper extracts and classifies attribute information from structured or unstructured text and image big data through deep learning-based technology development of 'language processing intelligence' and 'image processing intelligence', and We propose an artificial intelligence-based 'customized fashion advisor' service integration system that analyzes trends and new materials, discovers 'market-consumer' insights through consumer taste analysis, and can recommend style, virtual fitting, and design support.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.53-69
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• 2023

This study aims to analyze research trends regarding outdoor wear. For this purpose, the data-collection period was limited to January 2002-October 2022, and the collection consisted of titles of papers, academic names, abstracts, and publication years from the Research Information Sharing Service (RISS). Frequency analysis was conducted on 227 papers in total to check academic journals and annual trends, and LDA topic-modeling analysis was conducted using 20,964 tokens. Data pre-processing was performed prior to topic-modeling analysis; after that, topic-modeling analysis, core topic derivation, and visualization were performed using a Python algorithm. A total of eight topics were obtained from the comprehensive analysis: experiential marketing and lifestyle, property and evaluation of outdoor wear, design and patterns of outdoor wear, outdoor-wear purchase behavior, color, designs and materials of outdoor wear, promotional strategies for outdoor wear, purchase intention and satisfaction depending on the brand image of outdoor wear, differences in outdoor wear preferences by consumer group. The results of topic-modeling analysis revealed that the topic, which includes a study on the design and material of outdoor wear and the pattern of jackets related to the overall shape, was the highest at 30.9% of the total topics. The next highest topic was also the design and color of outdoor wear, indicating that design-related research was the main research topic in outdoor wear research. It is hoped that analyzing outdoor wear research will help comprehend the research conducted thus far and reveal future directions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.296-309
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• 2023

This study gathered basic information on the development of Jiu-Jitsu uniforms suitable for players in Korea. Detailed data were collected between December 20^th and December 30^th, 2022 on 21 selected brands sold in online shopping malls. For each, information was recorded on the production country, product type, price, colors, material, and sizing system. A total of 612 datasets were analyzed using frequency analysis, cross-tabulation, and Chi-square tests. Jiu-Jitsu uniforms were classified as either standard or limited edition. Limited edition uniforms were more expensive than regular uniforms. International brands had a higher price range than domestic brands. The most commonly used colors for Jiu-Jitsu uniforms were the regulation colors associated with the sport: white, black, and blue. Domestic brands were more likely to use non-regulation colors than international brands. The material used for the top half of the uniform was predominantly pearl weave, while the bottom half was usually ripstop. International brands used a more diverse range of materials than domestic brands. The Jiu-Jitsu uniform sizing system incorporated a range of sizes between A00 and A6. While sizing designations differed according to the established sizing systems of different countries, the sizes remained the same, as did the range of sizes available. Where size guides were provided, height and weight were used to help the customer determine the appropriate size. The dimensions of each size varied between brands. Overall, we found that international brands offer a more diverse range of Jiu-Jitsu uniform designs than domestic brands.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.113-125
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• 2023

The COVID-19 pandemic has led to the normalization of mask-wearing worldwide, and young children are particularly vulnerable to respiratory diseases. Children's masks come in various sizes and shapes, causing confusion among consumers who struggle to find products that can accommodate their child's unique physical conditions. This research aims to analyze the shape and dimensions of health masks designed for young children. A total of 67 mask varieties were collected, and 58 were subjected to analysis. The masks were found to have two primary shapes: foldable and beak-like, with sizes categorized as small and extra-small. The majority of masks were manufactured in Korea, and the size labeling systems varied among manufacturers. The mask materials were non-woven fabric or polypropylene, and there was diversity in terms of the adjustable earbands and the use of additional accessories. The dimensions of the masks varied depending on their shape, with significant differences in the weight and the length of the wire holes. Subsequent research should focus on conducting wearability evaluations to verify the dimensional suitability of commercially available children's health masks based on shape and size. Additionally, this study aims to provide foundational data that can assist in the development of children's masks with size ranges that differentiate them from adult masks and cater to specific age groups.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.673-689
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• 2023

To realize the traceability of sustainable textile products, this study presents a low-carbon process through energy savings in the textile material manufacturing process. Traceability is becoming an important element of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), which confirms the eco-friendliness of textile products as well as supply chain information. Textile products with complex manufacturing processes require traceability of each step of the process to calculate carbon emissions and power usage. Additionally, an understanding of the characteristics of the product planning-manufacturing-distribution process and an overall understanding of carbon emissions sources are required. Energy use in the textile material manufacturing stage produces the largest amount of carbon dioxide, and the amount of carbon emitted from processes such as dyeing, weaving and knitting can be calculated. Energy saving methods include efficiency improvement and energy recycling, and carbon dioxide emissions can be reduced through waste heat recovery, sensor-based smart systems, and replacement of old facilities. In the dyeing process, which uses a considerable amount of heat energy, LNG, steam can be saved by using "heat exchangers," "condensate management traps," and "tenter exhaust fan controllers." In weaving and knitting processes, which use a considerable amount of electrical energy, about 10- 20% of energy can be saved by using old compressors and motors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.193-210
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• 2024

The portrait featuring Jo Ban(1341-1401), a scholar-official from the late Goryeo and early Joseon period, and his wife is the oldest surviving couple portrait in Korea. It is of great value in uncovering the clothing culture of the period given the limited number of historical artifacts and records. This study examines the historical clothing and textile patterns of Jo Ban's wife and reproduces them using 3D fashion design software program CLO. She wears jokduri, chima, and baeja over layers of jeogori, a mixture of traditional Korean and Chinese styles. Her clothing illustrates eight patterns-one flower, five geometric, and two cloud. Records and relics of similar periods show that flower and geometric patterns in her clothing follow the prevailing styles of Goryeo, while the cloud patterns are representative of early Joseon. These details are used to reproduce six different styles of Jo Ban's wife with CLO tools. Various visualizations of textile patterns are applied to materials, generating a more realistic look than her existing 3D character created with the portrait. Results of this study are expected to help promote the use of Goryeo clothing and patterns in numerous designs and enhance intuitive understanding of Goryeo clothing based on 3D visualization.