• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.149-157
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• 2016

Research on changes of Chinese women's fashion styles was conducted through analysis of fashion images and articles in Chinese fashion magazines since 1980s. Through the fashion magazine research centered on Shanghai, the most developed commercial city having a great influence on the entire fashion industry in China, it examined Chinese fashion styles by period so identified a developmental process of Chinese fashion styles. Based on general understanding of Chinese fashion magazine industry, case study was conducted on "Shanghai Style(上海服飾)". After analyzing 1100 fashion images by period derived from 245 volumes from 1985 to 2013, this study compared fashion styles in 4 periods and analyzed the developments of Chinese fashion styles. Findings from the case analysis based on the classification of fashion styles are as follows. In the early editions, images to give a visual stimulus and express styles more intuitively were frequently used with reported articles. As for the general change of the style in "Shanghai Style(上海服飾)", expression was done centered on casual wear with gradual disappearance of formal wear. There was a tendency entire atmosphere of the style became romantic. Through a comparative analysis between Chinese fashion styles having such developmental characteristic and the global fashion trends, this study identified special characteristics of Chinese fashion style changes. As for common characteristics, firstly, both have a tendency to change into the coexistence of various styles rather than popularity of certain style. Secondly, style was expressed gradually centered on casual wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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• pp.449-461
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to rediscover the hidden value of non-mainstreamers style which has been overlooked for the past decade by investigate the aesthetics and formative features of the Grunge fashion. The Grunge fashion was derived from explosive popularity of the early 90's grunge music. Grunge was the alternative anti-thesis against mainstream pop music and anti-fashion against mainstream fashion. Dirty, rubbish grunge style of the poor street youth and grunge musicians have raised to the high fashion by designers. And These trial of designers made people to notice the value of the non-mainstreamers street style like grunge. Actually, the grunge brought the shock with many argument to the 90's fashion field. But now, It became the classic of the street fashion. And It has potent influence on the music, culture and high fashion. The Grunge is a kind of links between music and fashion, street fashion and high fashion, sub culture and mainstream culture, the past and now. Grunge isn't only a fashion of appearance. It is the attitude of wearing clothes and living a life. Variety grunge style in the international street fashion, high fashion, typical musicians's fashion of the 1990's and the 2000's was researched for this study. These materials were gathered from music magazines, fashion magazines, movies, musics and books. As a results of analysis, Grunge has the formative features like mix & match, layering, patchwork, primitive edge, rag, retro, recycle, kinderwhore, sneer scribbling, disheveled hair. Grunge also has the Aesthetic features like the beauty of $disorder{\cdot}\;disharmony{\cdot}\;incompleteness{\cdot}\;kitsch{\cdot}\;poverty{\cdot}\;alternative{\cdot}\;eclectic{\cdot}$symbiosis. For the last 10 years, These features changed our fashion be more pluralistic and dynamic.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2007

This study was aimed at giving help to the people intending to change their own hair color design and also providing the guide line to the cosmetic circles for developing new hair color design and promoting sales by statistically analyzing seasonal changes of hair colors puplished on women's magazines(Vogue Korea, Estetica Korea, Woman Chosun, Ce.ci) from 2003 to 2006. The researching methods were as follows; (1) hair colors published on women's magazines from september 2003 to August 2006 were measured by N.C.S. color reader(4 magazines $\times$10 main hair colors/magazine $\times$ 12 months $\times$ 3 years = 1,440 colors). (2) N.C.S. tone is made of percentage, so measured values and chromas were statistically analyzed by mean, standard deviation, and seasonal deferences were statistically analyzed by t-test and specified on high significant values. But hues were not made of percentage, so these were statistically analyzed by cross tabulation analysis, $x^2$ -test and specified on high significant values. These all had been analyzed by SPSS program(ver. 11.0). The results were as follows; (1) Usually seasonal changes of hair values were significant, specially in foreign licensed magazines, and bright values appeared in S/S and dark values in F/W. (2) Seasonal changes of hair hues were significant only on foreign women's magazines. Therefore seasonal changes of korean hair colors were not significant compared by foreign hair colors because of hardness of color changes of dark black hair and hair damages by hair tints and bleaches and trends of well being and hair care. But hair color changes have been developed gradually and will developed furthermore. So korean hair cosmetic circles have to present hair color trends deferenciated by seasons. And S/S hair values have to be brignt and F/W have to be dark. And new seasonal hair hues matched by korean have to be developed and presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.183-196
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to analyze the influnce of Postmodernism on 90's fashion trends, and to present applications of it's inspiration to print design. 90's fashion trends represented in fashion magazines, in fashion trend reports, and in related books were anlyzed. Informations referring to two selected target markets were collected by phone interview. In 90's fashion trends, seven fashion images seemed to be influenced from Postmodernism emerged. Based on these seven fashion images, several print designs were created and developed for one domestic market and for one export market.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.349-357
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to examine how deconstruction, which currently had a great deal of influence on fashion, was actually accepted in view of fashion form or material. In order to track the tendency of deconstructional fashion, an attempt to find out what deconstructional methods were used in fashion design for each formative element was made by looking into earlier studies. Then an analysis was made over the recent fashion magazines. As a result of analyzing four fashion magazines, the most distinctive feature was found to be the use of seethrough cloth. In addition, unsymmetrical form also was immensely used. The next most frequently appeared form was layering, followed by slash or making a hole, lingerie look, padded cloth, indeterminate form, wrinkled cloth and patchworked cloth in the order named. The dominant layering style, the most widely used deconstructional fashion, was that inner cloth could be seen through outer seethrough cloth. The most frequently employed deconstructional cloth was seethrough cloth. Rather than complete seethrough cloth, the shape of lace, net or pattern was employed largely, in which the body could be partially hidden. The most largely used deconstructional method was a slash or making a hole. Most slashes appeared on the front part of the body, to which seethrough stuff was attached in many cases. Based on the above mentional finding. 10 kinds of deconstructional design were proposed for each method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.928-940
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• 2012

The present study aimed to propose the competitive strategy to fashion brand franchise stores by analyzing articles regarding success stores as published in fashion magazines. A total of 91 articles were selected from three fashion magazines and content analysis was applied to extract major factors. Four types of trading areas and eight product types were compared by the major factors. As results, six major factors composing competitive strategy were analyzed such as personal selling, management of sales forces, promotion, customer relationship management, management of store space, and relationship with headquarter. Comparing competitive factors by the types of trading area, management of sales forces and personal selling were crucial for central district and for outlets/interchange district. On the other hand, personal selling and customer relationship management were important for local district while management of store space and personal selling were critical for tenants of the large discount store/shopping mall area. Comparing by product types, personal selling was the most important factor for all product types except young casualwear whereas the second important one was management of sales forces for adult casualwear, womenbbbs wear, and others. For menbbbs wear, sales promotion was the second important one whereas management of store space was the second crucial one for underwear and childrenbbbs clothing. Based on the present study result, it is proposed that competitive strategy of individual fashion brand franchise store should be differently developed because the characteristics of trading area and product type are different and in turn, customers benefit and competition might be different.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.93-110
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• 2001

The present study attempted to compare the behavioral patterns and attitudes of American and Korean female students toward apparel ads in magazines in relation to their physical self-concept. The study used a self-administered questionnaire. The sample consisted of 730 female students majoring in the fields related to clothing and textiles : 310 American students at six colleges and universities located in the west, northeast and southwest parts of the U.S., and 412 Korean students at four Seoul-based universities. Likert scales were used for most measures with 1=never or very unimportant and 5 =always or very important. Physical self-concept was measured on the basis of W. S. Jung's Standardized Self-concept Test and Tennessee Self-concept Scale. Surreys were back translated for validity. Percentage, t-test, Contingency Tables and Chi-square were used for the analysis of the data. Results are as follows : (1) Korean students read more magazines than U.S. students, however, Vogue was the most popular for both groups. (2) Those with a high sense of Physical self-concept read more magazines. for both countries. (3) American students'attitudes toward apparel ads in magazines were similar, regardless of whether their sense of physical self-concept was high or low. For Koreans, those with higher sense of physical self-concept showed greater interest in magazine ads, consulted magazines for fashion trends, found ads more useful, and more often expressed satisfaction with the ads, than the lower self-concept group. (4) Korean students cited a lack of information in ads while American students felt body types of models were unrealistic. Both Koreans and Americans in the higher self-concept group expressed a greater level of dissatisfaction with apparel ads in magazines. (5) Advertisers should attempt to again a deeper understanding of the socio-psychological characteristics of their readership as self-concept appears to be related to several magazine readership attitudes and behaviors. Magazines targeting Americans might consider the importance of coordination and merchandising. Apparel ads targeting Korean should consider the importance of company ads.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.1 s.4
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• pp.39-49
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the consumption value and characteristic of content in cosmetics & perfume advertisement in men's fashion magazines in order to understand the changes of men's cosmetics market which is recently getting great attention along with the craze for 'florally handsome men', and 'eolzzang'(=gorgeous face), and examine the changes of the culture of men's make-up. I selected Esquire which had firstly produced men's fashion magazine in Korea, and implemented the content analysis, the quantitative analysis method, by separating linguistic elements ken visual elements. The results are as follows: In the analysis of consumption value revealed in the linguistic elements of cosmetics advertisement, emotion value was the highest in both cosmetics and perfume, while function value was the second highest in cosmetics and rarity value was the second highest in perfume. About the changes of content characteristics of visual elements, in both cosmetics and perfume advertisement, there were a lot of visual advertisements focused on figures without the mixture of linguistic expressions. Between advertisement in 1990s and that in 2000s, there were meaningful differences only in types and object of meaning of used symbols.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.50-60
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• 2001

This study is to clarify the concept of \"Americanization\" among korean modern clothing culture by investigating magazines from 1920s to 1930s. The Americanization of modern clothing culture can be divided to New fashion, Sports-wear, and Cloth improvement. 1. New fashion, Western culture was the main stream of new fashion, and modern boys and girls could bear cultural privileged consciousness. And the spread of modern culture was so fast that exaggerated fashional preference provoked extravagancy and loss of individuality. 2. Sports-wear. Under the rule of Japanese imperialism, initial sports activity was encouraged to regulate colony by principle and order. Through the sports-wear, practicality of clothing, exposure of female body, and the concept of T.P.O.(Time, place, occasion) were introduced. 3. Cloth improvement. The capitalism and modern concept of \"time\" were introduced and promoted maximum productivity. And to increase productivity, imperialist educated conveniency of western clothes and inconveniency of traditional Korean clothes. These could affect Koreans to think themselves a sense of inferiority(uncivilized complex).ncivilized complex).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.483-495
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the current situation of IMC strategies of Korean fashion brands which enter into Chinese market and to propose the efficient IMC strategies. Twenty Korean fashion brands which enter into Chinese market were selected and in-depth interviews with the managers were conducted. First, advertising is focused on magazines, and outdoor advertising, advertising in departments' magazines, distributing catalogs, and star marketing are performed in some cases. Brands often execute sales promotion activities such as price deduction, offering coupons, and presenting gifts. PR activities like events and sponsorship marketing which targets uncertain public or loyal customers are performed. PPL is conducted passively though it can be very effective. CRM is not operated systematically and customer management is conducted through tele-marketing and direct mail by shop managers. Web sites of brands have insufficient contents and are operated ineffectively. VMD follows brand's basic policy, but in cases of agents whose copyrights are transferred or branches which are place in areas where managing them is hard, shop managers operate their stores by themselves. Finally, because of socialistic consciousness, the perception about service of sales people is lacked.