• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.61-78
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• 2021

Gianni Versace is one of the most influential Italian designers between the 1980s and 1990s and a representative person to add sexiness and splendour to Italian fashion. This study aimed to analyze the design identity that resulted in the successful handover to Donatella Versace and to review how effectively differentiated and unique heritage elements of Versace were transferred and operated. Literature reviews were performed to find Gianni Versace's design identity and archive. The scope of this study was Donatella's collection from 2018 to 2020. In particular, Signature, the most remarkable design identity of luxury brands with a visual identity that includes the mark, logo and symbol and design elements such as the item, colour, materials, details, etc., were the special focus. In this study, the elements of the visual identity of the signature were classified with the logo, icon, silhouette, materials, patterns, colours, and changes in details that were applied with the uniqueness and philosophy of the differentiated brand. Donatella Versace empathized with Versace's heritage as the brand heritage recalling Versace's honour in the 1990s and reproduced his honour again by reinterpretation of Versace's design images. Donatella is considered an excellent creative director who leads the brand by keeping the heritage and applying the trends of the times. This study as a case study of Versace has the meaning that Versace has maintained the brand identity starting from Gianni Versace as the first generation and successful takeover after the change of directors upon recreation to meet the modern times.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.147-160
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• 2012

The costumes as an expression system in film are inserted intentionally for a particular purpose. Costumes in film, namely the cinematic dress code, and that in reality are dissimilar in meaning structure. The costumes in film perform a role of a complicated eye-catcher in correlation with the other filmic factors. But the previous studies on the costumes in film are focused on the keywords 'fashion style', 'fashion trend', or 'PPL (product placement)'. In film studies, however, the costumes should be observed from the point of view as semiosis, not as fashion, in other words, from the angle of symbol, icon and index. And the meaning and the process of the communication, which that produce, should be pointed out. It could expose, that costumes play one of the key roles for the developing of narratives and the creating of characters in film. Therefore, this study's aim is to examine the semiosis of costumes in film and to analyse the dress code, dress plot, and dress message in (1990) by Garry Marshall. But this work does not try to indicate the problems of the film-semiotics or to intensify the concept of the semiotic terminology. Thus, this study attempts to approach the theme of costumes in film from the perspective of the semiosis and its meaning process. With this, it has been proved, that semiotic systems are in hiding beyond the conventional forms of cinematic costumes and its natural harmony with characters.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.27-32
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• 2018

Hanbok is a our own history and tradition and is an icon of Korean history and culture. Today, the costumes are moving around the world fashion trend due to the development of mass media and internet at the same time. This is an important clue to marketing activities and can be used for predictive analysis. Although Hanbok is changing little by little every year, research on the trend of Hanbok is rare. This study analyzed the results of searching for 'Hanbok' as a keyword in Portal Site Naver and posting a customized purchase of Hanbok for marriage between 2016 and 2017. The analysis was based on analyzing the photos uploaded, and analyzing purchase reason in the On-line review. Most buyer of Hanbok purchased for prepare marriage. The choice of a customized hanbok is mostly to search online or to use the fair. The most important factor in choosing a custom Hanbok that appeared in online reviews is color and then price. The color of the jacket is mostly light color and the off-white color is the most used and the long skirt such as the pink system, the chorale system and the red system, and it can be seen that the pink skirt is overwhelmingly large. In the design of Hanbok, The sleeves were straight and narrow, and the length was the chest line. The collar were enlarged and widened. 고름 used the sole color instead of the jacket and skirt color, and it was narrow not long. skirt's pleats was wide, and designed to overlap with double color of the fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.185-203
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to reveal the modern succession and reinterpretation of brand identity through the case of Balenciaga design presented by Demna Gvasalia through a review of the literature, design collection, and design review analysis. The design collection analysis was conducted from 2016 F/W to 2020 F/W, when Demna Gvasalia commenced responsibility for the Balenciaga collection. A total of 12 articles from overseas fashion magazines and newspapers were analyzed. A modern reinterpretation of Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga design is as follows. First, he introduced luxury mode to reflect a sense of the times and introduced luxury street looks based on street and sports sensibilities, showing various styles without specific concepts. Second, by sharing universal sensibilities based on pragmatism, he proposed an easy-to-wear outfit for daily life to demonstrate the everydayness of fashion. Third, as a new exploration of traditional structural beauty, the design of Cristobal Balenciaga was reinterpreted through the conversion of items, overlapping outfits, and the introduction of high-tech technologies. Fourth, by taking a conceptual approach to fashion, he has renewed the spirit of experimentation and modernity shown by Cristobal Balenciaga. Fifth, with the presentation of a new icon, new styles of sneakers such as Triple S and Speed Runner are presented as new icons. He inherited the original mindset and creative approach of the house's founder, Cristobal Balenciaga, and reinterpreted it from a contemporary street sensibility and pragmatic perspective.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.690-703
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to help user understand the basic principles and interfaces of each program, and to provide a base material for the development of more efficient apparel CAD systems to compensate for each program's shortcomings by comparing the function of three apparel CAD systems: Yuka CAD, Opti-tex, and Style CAD. For this purpose, the skirt waistband and sleeve armhole line creation process were selected based on these two criteria. 1) There is a big difference between principle and method between CAD systems. 2) When CAD system is used rather than paper drawing process, the process is shortened and convenience is high. In this study, pros and cons and supplement point of each CAD system are suggested by comparing the functions of the CAD system performing the selected drafting process by four criteria: icon, key, method, and characteristic point. As a result of the study, it was confirmed that the three CAD systems differ in the basic principle and interface environment. As a result of analyzing the skirt waistband method function, it was confirmed that the band line is formed directly on the outline of the skirt and the band dart recognition function is the most efficient function and as a result of the analyzing the sleeve armhole line method function, it was confirmed that the curve generation function using the shape of the actual curve measure and the length adjustment function through the automation of the dimension calculation is the most efficient function.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.170-183
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of different images of movie costume centering on the actresses. The perfect examples are the characters from the movie "The Devil Wears Prada", in which the film is about the fashion leaders of the world. This study consists of visual data as well as images including some scenes from the movie. The sources were collected from relative media, articles in journals, internet sites relating to the movies and photos and we have analyzed differentiated each of the character's wardrobes and its characteristics appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. First, the characteristic image of Andy, the main character (Anne Hathaway) in the movie changed dramatically. Andy'swardrobe is focused on the character's makeover in the movie as the character changes from a slob dresser to an assistant of the editor-in-chief of the number one fashion magazine in the world. Each scene definitely shows different styles of the latest premier designers' clothes and accessories. On the other hand, Miranda Priestly appears as the fashion leader and icon throughout the whole movie. Her career look in each scene was very chic and sophisticated in the office while her party dresses were sexy and glamorous in the movie where she was at many of the promotion parties and events. The second analysis of characteristic images of movie costumes is comparing the styles of Andy, Miranda and Emily(the other assistant of Miranda). Andy's wardrobe was divided Into two situations-before working for the magazine and while working for Miranda. As Andy's wardrobe began to upscale, the clothing images of Emily and Miranda became less fashionable. As a result of this study, the movie costumes played a vital role in expressing the changes and differentiating each character's images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.35-50
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• 2011

In this study, repression of the body is defined as a restriction on natural developments or movements and a modification either temporarily or permanently of the human body in shape, color, texture and odor. In addition, it involves physical and (or) mental pain. Chinese foot-binding and the Western corset are extreme examples of female body's being repressed in the history of fashion. The analysis of this type of repression will be based on historical research and theoretical concepts such as Darwin's (1809-1882) survival condition, Freud's (1856-1939) renunciation of desire, Weil's (1909-1943) privilege, and Foucault's (1926-1984) L'Usage des Plaisirs(the use of pleasure). Chinese foot-binding symbolically represents ideal beauty, the distinction of an ethnic group, and a desire for improved social status in the struggle for political power. It also represents psychology and a esthetics of eroticism and fetishism that originate from a man's desire and his individual taste. Symbolically, the Western corset represents abundance and fecundity, obedience and devotion to religion, the sanctity of God and ideal beauty as defined by political power. It also represents psychology and aesthetics of eroticism and fetishism as man's desire and a fashion icon. In conclusion, Chinese foot-binding was pursuit of power in male ideology but Western corset was a power struggle between God and mankind.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.173-187
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fetishist characteristics and the aesthetic values of glamour style based on the premise that fetishism is the theoretical root of glamour style expressed in fashion throughout history. The following results are from analysing fetishist characteristics of glamour style. First, luxury was analysed from an angle of commodity fetishism. Every culture develops images and stories that portray a world in which its ideals are realized: a paradise, a utopia, a golden age, etc. Consumer goods often serve as 'bridges to these ideals'. People thus can fantasize about owning the perfect life. Crucially, however, they must never get everything they picture. That is why luxuries often take on displaced meaning. Glamour gives the displaced meaning visual form, making it beautiful and real. Second, the attention on the glamour of luxury goods as a bridge to ideals is connected to the glamour icon who is simultaneously a consumer of these luxury goods and a producer of cultural goods. Glamour icons including the courtesan of the late 19th century, the actress of the 1930s' Hollywood golden age and today's celebrities appear to efface the traces of production and create fetishist images in culture. Through this artificial principle, the commodity-cum-glamour icon comes to life as a splendid image of spectacle. Third, masquerade and seduction were analysed from an angle of sexual fetishism. A magnificent image of masquerade as sexual fetishism is often equated with femininity, especially in Hollywood movies, because the artificial seduction of the feminine -namely glamour- can be effected by the absence or silence of being. That is to say, the aesthetic revelation of femininity coincides with the fleshing out of artificial signs. Masquerade and the seduction of the feminine are connected with glamour's artificial sensuality from this point. Fourth, since 1980's when homosexuality as sexual deviation resurfaced as a hot topic, sexual ambiguity and bisexual image have gained attention as perverse sexuality. Next came queer theory, which reduced gender itself to a matter of surface rather than depth. According to queer theory, gender itself can be revealed as a kind of drag act. Drag's imitative performance may reveal that womanliness is just about 'dragging up'. Queerness as a decadent play makes a connection with the wicked origins of glamour. From these characteristics, four aesthetic values were deduced: ostentatious luxury and mysterious idolatry by commodity fetishism, artificial sensuality and playful queerness by sexual fetishism.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.12 no.8
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• pp.23-30
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• 2021

Various customizing services are also being introduced in the fashion industry in line with the diversification of consumer tastes and the demand for small production of multiple varieties. However, barriers to entry are high for consumers who are not customized, and various functions are rather complicated. This study selected the three platforms that provide the most similar services to Marple, the No. 1 fashion platform sales, as comparative models and used them as a basic study for web-based fashion customization platform design through case analysis. As a research method, theoretical examinations were conducted through literature surveys, followed by web analysis based on layout, menu, color, icon, and interaction. The study found that the placement of options, the composition of menu windows, the number of point colors, and the use of icons without functions of metaphores hindered the use of customizing platforms. This work proposes a solution, and aims to contribute to increasing the usability of future customizing web by comprehensively analyzing the visual shaping elements of web platform design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.28-44
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• 2012

The aim of this research is to examine the tendency of national tastes reflected in global SPA brands based on the theories of Gans' taste culture and Bourdieu's cultural capital. In this study, the leading global SPA brands such as H&M, ZARA, GAP and UNIQLO can be considered as a representative taste culture as well as an icon of popular culture in the $21^{st}$ century global fashion and also the aesthetic taste of each brand differentiated from their national aesthetic values based on socio-cultural backgrounds. H&M represents fashionableness, practicality and environmental friendliness based on naturalism, democratic humanism, and functional practicality of Sweden. ZARA emerges as the most trend oriented brand as well as customer centered on the basis of cultural diversity, passion and glamorous artistic sensibility of Spain. GAP shows American iconic style, which is the functional sports casual wear, originated from American leisure culture and mass production. Lastly, UNIQLO represents high-tech functionalism and practical simplicity based on Japanese delicate workmanship and simple, concise lifestyle while relatively does not much follow the fashion forward trends. Consequently, the national taste has been proved as a solid foundation to identify each global brand. This should be the key component also applied to Korean global brands for developing their concepts and strategies more successfully based on our own national aesthetic taste.