• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.86-99
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• 2007

In this study, the concept of play as an entertainment is redefined and applicable method of fashion design as a play are suggested by analyzing the feature of doll's costume design based on the play pattern. In literary study, the role of playing doll Is described and has been examined by the analysis of scholars' opinions. In positive study, the pattern and costume design of sample costume dolls are analyzed using 624 samples of the representative images collected from the literatures and real figures, and they are classified as collection dolls or fashion dolls in order to analyze the feature of fashion design in playing dolls. As a result of the analysis of doll's costumes based on its use, the costumers are divided into a real world costume which is similar to what human wear in daily life and a virtual costume which is used in the movie or play and the costumes only worn by the dolls. The examination of the type of costume worn by dolls, dress is principally dominant costume in collection doll, whereas in fashion doll, dress is still mainly worn but shirt blouse & pants, shirt blouse k skirt, jacket, coat, bathing suit. etc. are shown dispersedly as well. In the costume silhouette of dolls, collection doll uses mostly A line silhouette meanwhile fit and flare is mostly used in the fashion doll but other silhouettes are also relatively shown a lot. In the means of the color of the costume worn by dolls, collection doll is more similar to those in actual fashion design. On the contrary, the color of the costume that fashion doll is put on is more free and more various because the trendy rotors such as green, yellow, purple, etc are used.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.51-67
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• 2024

Recently, as the "Kidult" culture has become the culture of life, the vintage fashion doll market is rapidly emerging. This change, coupled with a tendency to cherish childhood memories among adults, shows a phenomenon that vintage dolls are gaining popularity. This study explored the possibility of creative fashion doll clothing design, aiming to satisfy consumers' more diverse and unique emotional needs and provide new perspectives and inspiration to the doll fashion industry and the fashion doll industry. Therefore, this study attempted to propose a fashion doll costume design using the Y2K fashion style that is currently popular. Based on publications and prior research considerations, the Y2K fashion style could be categorized into four main styles: 'Future Technology', 'The Matrix', 'Millennium Spice Girl', and 'Harajuku'. Based on characteristics of these four styles, this study designed and produced eight stylish doll costumes incorporating the Y2K style under themes of 'Ex Machina', 'Digital Warrior', 'Rebelious Sugar', and 'Harajuku Dopamine'. This can inspire fashion doll costume design and production based on trendy styles. This study can be a useful foundation for presenting more diverse directions for fashion doll costume design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.67-79
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• 2011

This study is to design a ball-jointed doll costume with historical research in clay female doll's costume from Hwangsung-dong tomb of the Silla Dynasty[新羅] in 7C. This clay female doll's costume was characterized by slim silhouette, long sleeves, no neckline, side slit, high waistline, and bun on the back neck of representative of the early era. According to literature of 7-8C and textile relics, it is presumed that she wore short Jeogori[短衣, Dan-eui] with long sleeves and two layered skirt, and Dan-ryeong(團領) could be added as attachment that is reflective of the time era. For making design costume, Ra[羅, silk gauze] was used for long Dan-ryeong, plain silk and brocade[錦, Geum] for Dan-eui and skirt as a special textile of this period. Waist dart and small snap were added to the costume of ball-jointed doll because of hardness and curvy shape of doll's body, without contradicting traditional value. For better use of this study and cost reduction purposes, development of production system for traditional doll costumes should be considered.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.385-399
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• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.67-77
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• 2012

Hanbok of dolls can be a good medium that can given with value of traditional cultural products, however, it is not easy to see hanbok and its pattern from dolls. Especially for the case of rag doll which is closely related to the life of users, it has enough value as traditional cultural contents, however, there have been not sufficient studies on its pattern development and classification of form of dolls. Therefore, by classifying the body type of dolls by its pose, this study aims to provide a basic data for the development of hanbok pattern. This study looks into the origin and meaning of dolls and the definition and features of rag doll, then, it collected pictures and data rag dolls produced by 29 domestic companies. Through the data collected, the six different types of dolls, 'Sitting Style', 'Standing Style', 'Lying Style', 'Cushion Style', 'Quadruped Sitting Style', 'Quadruped Standing Style', were classified into form. In the future, I hope the result of this study can be used as useful data for toy manufactures and cultural business in relation to development of rag doll and at the same time as a basic data for development of hanbok pattern development of rag dolls as traditional cultural goods.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.565-578
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• 2014

This study is about the cases in fashion figure appearing the contemporary fashion and their characteristics. The work aims at providing a further active research opportunity for fashion figure in the modern fashion field and finding several possible utilizations to help the overall fashion industry through examination. Research methodology was followed up with the related literature review and empirical work through the case study of multiple fashion figures denoted in the contemporary fashion. The results showed in the following way for types of fashion figure in the modern fashion. The first type is that its figure was used for stage apparatus in fashion collection, various properties, or garment tool as doll shifted to a certain object. The second type is that art toy or fashion doll was used as specially added product via way of cooperation with fashion brand to be applied as fashion figure alone or other properties for T-shirt or something like that. The third type is the case that multifariously sized figures were applied to show window or shop display. This type of fashion figure is basically an imbedded fashionistic feature, reflecting the rarity, publicity, playfulness, and artistic value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.44-58
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• 2006

Dolls which were recognized as children's toys are recently also recognized as one of the cultural products of adult's hobby. Thus this research is about dolls' fashion and the possibility of their industrial expansion. Moreover, the object of the research is to develop and manufacture high quality fashion doll products in Korea which are mostly imported from foreign countries. The research studied the origin and the path of the development of fashion dolls with the history of clothing and special books for dolls. By organizing the character and the fashion of dolls' costumes, the research has a meaning for not only to make an academic approach of dolls' costumes which was insufficient in Korea but also to provide useful information to toy enterprises. The conclusion of this research is as followed. First, dolls have a lot of possibilities to be developed as a high value added cultural product industry by emerging from their children's toy image. Second, since costumes of dolls also have a trend, it is necessary to develop products with the trend to satisfy customer's willing. Third, organization of both the books about the dolls' costumes and the information for their DIY is urgently needed for the domestic fashion doll manias. Forth, the necessity to scheme the expansion of fancy industry has been raise by using dolls' characterization and fashion. Fifth, the researcher who has researched the above necessities has manufactured 8 pieces of dolls' costumes and provided the actual solutions to the each point of the discussions. In sum, I suggest expanding the scope of both research subject and product manufacturing of the research results and also recommend for further researches to develop the products which consumers want.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.90-90
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• 2002

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.42-53
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to study doll's symbolism representing our social culture and the characteristics of clothing design. The ball joint doll was selected, that are pretty much resembled to human body in terms of facial expression, body proportion, joint movement, etc. Results of research are summarized as follows: the ball joint doll is indicated a doll whose joints are free to move with a round shaped joint, which originated by Yochilya simon, who adopted German Hans Bellmer's method.'rho ball joint doll, first, there appeared state of human isolation due to the material civilization and industrial revolution, and trend of adhering to one's own world made human possess dolls. Second, according to the doll play became a representing play culture among Kidult culture, dolls, that are resembled with human being, were recognized as personalized objects. Third, along of expanding digital culture that makes easy to exchange information via Internet, so, ball joint doll market is growing fast, for which various levels of mania are being formed. Take a look at the doll fashion in modern society. In accordance to form of Look, it is largely categorized Young Casual look, Office look, Ethnic look and Military look. When take a look at design specialty, young casual look was presented as a comfortable silhouette and also made of elastic materials and expressed vivid bright tones. Office look image was expressed as a suit of jacket with skirt, and cotton wool polyester materials and acro-matic colors. Ethnic look was represented by Japanese traditional dress and Chinese traditional clothing. The Military look was generally emphasized army uniforms of straight silhouette and shoulder straps.