Modern society has been transformed into a digital emotional society that could gradually be seen, felt, and enjoyed by the diversification of personal consumption desires due to digital development. Accordingly, in fashion, an original fashion sense that arose out of classical and conventional thinking has become important and there is an increasing interest in patchwork quilts. The purpose of this study lies in contributing to the development and utilization of creative and emotional fashion design by expanding the mental changes that have emerged in modern society to creative areas after analyzing the classification and expression characteristics of the type cases of patchwork quilt techniques expressed in modern fashion. In addition, it is meaningful to examine how the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts are expressed in the digital emotion era. This study paralleled literature research and empirical case studies. In the scope and method of research, the theatrical research was centered on literature data. For visual data, website photos were collected, limited to women's clothing among the collections from Fall & Winter 2014 to Spring & Summer 2017. After drawing the expression types of patchwork quilts extracted from the previous research based on the design formative factors, the fashion-related expert group analyzed the expressive characteristics of 501 photographs in which the patchwork quilt of the designer clothing collection were reflected. As a result of analysis, the expressive types appeared in the order of diversification of techniques and materials, extended dual images, new formative composition, and reconstruction of traditional patchwork. In this study, the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts expressed in contemporary fashion are analyzed and drawn as variability, compromise, convergence, and playfulness. Through this, it is hoped that this study can be used variously in the development of fashion design by expanding the interpretation of costume culture.
There had been studied for a function of fashion illustration that has various capability of differentiation among fashion products since year 2000. A fashion products adopted the illustration is stand out not only to increase the goods profits by consumers who is willing to purchase the products with specified identity but also to execute differentiation strategy in a market. The aim of this study is the theoretical approach of fashion illustration and examined the development process of the products based on the supporting documents of cooperations, other records and actual application cases. Also, expression techniques of fashion illustration, image features and etc. are mainly studied and following representative results are projected through the data. First, the success of fashion commercialization using fashion illustration should have mutual organic function which requires three factors such as product project, marketing, the role of illustration. Second, An illustration of hand drawing expression technique is more helpful in differentiation of fashion product than using computer graphic, embroidery, collage technique and the fashion products vividly expressed with sensuous illustration tend to have higher preference. Third, the possibility of success the fashion products is often affected by the distinct identification and the precise positioning while the illustration is used.
The purpose of this study is to provide basic data of dress design by researching three-dimensional decorative techniques representing flowers, a popular motif in dress design. This study analyzed 44 dresses that were presented in Valentino collection. The result of this study is as follows: First, the detailing expression method can show various patterns and colors through embroidery technique, sub-materials, and bonding techniques in embroidery, beads flower, and ribbon flowers. Second, the fabric flower technique expressed flower image in three-dimension in more various images than do either the ribbon or beads flower technique. Fabric flowers are mostly made from the same material as dresses. The expression technique of fabric flower is classified into the following three classifications: 1) A technique underlying a flower image with one, two and three large flowers, 2) a technique decorating a large area with a number of an identical motif, and 3) a technique highlighting a part of the body or design line by attracting eyes to one point, creating a corsage decorated where a designer wants to emphasize. Third, a silhouette technique realizes a flower image with a silhouette of a dress like sculpted structure and it is thus used less than a detailing expression technique. A flower image is expressed by making use of body lines or emphasizing the face. Finally, flower images on a dress were realized as a full blossomed flower, through visually streamlined shapes and curved lines.
Dressmaking is a high value-added sector of the fashion industry in which the individuality and skills of designers play a prominent role. The appropriate use of the draping and the flat pattern techniques in the dressmaking process also play an important part in perfecting the finished product. The purpose of this study was to improve the understanding of dress design and identify a pattern production technique to enhence efficiency in each of the three elements of the dress manufactureing process. For this purpose, analysis of the design of 1,389 wedding dress photographs published in Wedding 21, Korea's leading wedding magazine, during 2019 and 2020 was conducted. This analysis identified 15 bodice designs and 11 sleeve designs based on neckline and eight skirts based on silhouette which were ranked by frequency distribution. Patterns for the design of samples were then developed according to the highest combined frequency distribution of these three elements. Eight samples were finally produced to test the the efficiency of the patternmaking techniques empolyed and the selected designs. The findings from this study have practical applications, notably in improving the efficiency of pattern production techniques that will facilitate further growth in the dressmaking industry.
The purpose of this study was to develop questions for fashion design development, by applying 7 elements of the scamper to the fashion design elements, and to present a scamper checklist of fashion design elements, and item structures. In this study, the scope of research was limited to clothing design among various fashion products, and among various design development stages. Fashion design development focusing on design sketching, was limited to the research scope. The research method was based on an empirical study that derived scamper questions through FGI (Focus Group Interview), consisting of 5 fashion experts. Fashion design elements applied to development of scamper questions consisted of silhouettes, constructive lines, structural details, decorative details, patterns and textures of fabrics, and item structures, derived by applying these elements to the individual 7 elements of the scamper: substitute, combine, adjust, modify, put to other uses, eliminate, and reverse. Results of the study included 7 questions for substituting, 8 questions for combining, 6 questions for applying, 15 questions for modifying, 4 questions for putting to other uses, 4 questions for eliminating, and 7 questions for reversal. The scamper checklist for fashion design elements and item structures drew to 5 lists of silhouette variations, 7 lists of constructive line variations, 11 lists of structural detail variations, 10 lists of decorative detail variations, 11 lists of fabric variations, and 9 lists of structural modifications of items.
This study was conducted to examine how patchwork was expressed in fashion based on theoretical background on its brief history and expression styles and to show its possibility of creating ways for new expression in modern fashion. This study reviewed literatures on definition, history and styles of patchwork and investigated mainly works, which had been presented in collections home and abroad since 2000, to analyze its expressive characteristics shown in modern fashion. According to analysis on the expression of patchwork, it used various painting techniques such as patterns, colors and surface effect. It included patchwork having patterns provoking elusion of fairy tails; containing painting expression of reproducing works of artists; using colors boldly and contrasting strong primary colors directly to establish purity of painting and to pursuit characteristic expression; and using expression techniques of pure art such as gradation and cutting. Second, it used a compromise expression in materials, methods and substances. Patchwork which had used cloth without a pattern or printed fabric, utilized various materials like vinyl, paper, leather, metal and plastic and had a figurative value showing a solid expression as an objet itself with new techniques and changes of connecting methods. Thirdly, it used tradition patchwork techniques. Pieced patchwork, crazy patchwork and images of traditional odd ends of cloth covering a meal were applied to a whole area or a part of cloth to avoid monotony of design and to use it as a decoration.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti appearing in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. A theoretical examination of graffiti art and Moschino's creative designer Jeremy Scott was conducted using previous studies and publications. Accordingly, keywords about the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti and Moschino were identified, as follows: expressive elements of 'message (slogan)', 'symbolized letters or forms', 'logo and brand symbol', 'graffiti (scribbles)', 'child-like elements', 'daily element's and expressive techniques of 'using primary colors (color contrast)', 'deformation', 'distortion', 'exaggeration', 'illusion (trompe l'oeil)', 'collage (repetition)', 'simplification (flattening)', and 'borrowing heterogeneous objects'. These keywords were then used to analyze Moschino's collection, comprising seven years of Moschino's collection photographs officially recorded in the fashion magazine Vogue, ranging from the 2014 F/W to 2020 F/W collections. A total of 761 photos were initially collected, from which 561 were selected by the researcher. Expressive characteristics of graffiti in Moschino's collection were analyzed, and identified in the following categories: 'child-like playfulness', 'commercial satire', 'using daily elements', and 'borrowing non-representative techniques'. Accordingly, it was confirmed that expressive characteristics of graffiti were found in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. This study anticipates the possibility of various interpretations from which fashion that communicates closely with contemporary art can be understood.
The purpose of this study is to attempt to diversify artistic expression through combinations of the twelve zodiac animals and origami techniques and to propose new directions for fashion design by applying these to fashion accessory bag designs. For the research method, this study researched the representative forms and characteristics of twelve zodiac animals based on the cultural background. Also, diverse cases of origami techniques were sought to apply them to the development of bags. The results are as follows. First, expressed forms of the Chinese zodiac were newly expanded by realizing the form of Chinese zodiac animals through various origami techniques. Origami work displays abstract visual effects rather than intuitive feelings or expressions of flat designs. With this, detailed realizations could be made through the characteristics and cultural implications of animals. Second, the work created in this study utilized zero-waste patterns that use origami techniques on one whole piece. During pattern production, folded parts were marked without waste and the outer fabric and lining were produced. Patterns were all symmetrical lines so most forms were expressed with squares and equilateral triangles. Third, through actual work produced using fabric instead of paper, effects that are brought about through folding are determined in diverse ways according to fabric textures or material types and thicknesses. When paper is folded, shapes are created as folded, but fabric requires the use of supportive material to create the effects of origami. Polyester and blended fabric were easy to use with high levels of function and practicality. Through such diverse production attempts, fixing methods, hand sewing, sewing machines, double-sided tape, and leather adhesive were used.
Fashion trends are actively disseminated through social media, which influences both their propagation and consumption. This study explored how users perceive subversive basic fashion in social media videos, by examining the associated concepts and characteristics. In addition, the factors contributing to the style's social media dissemination were identified and its distinctive features were analyzed. Through text mining analysis, 80 keywords were selected for semantic network and CONCOR analysis. TF-IDF and N-gram results indicate that subversive basic fashion involves transformative design techniques such as cutting or layering garments, emphasizing the body with thin fabrics, and creating bold visual effects. Topic modeling suggests that this fashion forms a subculture that resists mainstream norms, seeking individuality by creatively transforming the existing garments. CONCOR analysis categorized the style into six groups: forward-thinking unconventional fashion, bold and unique style, creative reworking, item utilization and combination, pursuit of easy and convenient fashion, and contemporary sensibility. Consumer actions, linked to social media, were shown to involve easily transforming and pursuing personalized styles. Furthermore, creating new styles through the existing clothing is seen as an economic and creative activity that fosters network formation and interaction. This study is significant as it addresses language expression limitations and subjectivity issues in fashion image analysis, revealing factors contributing to content reproduction through user-perceived design concepts and social media-conveyed fashion characteristics.
This study has purpose to understanding recent trends and image effect of textile in fashion by looking to dyeing technique and aesthetics of diffusing image pattern. Further the study will hope to provide basic data for fashion and textile designer fashion. The methods of this study are academic literatures as well as practical study through case studies about actual works. Dyeing techniques and aesthetics of diffusing image pattern since 2000 fashion collection and their results are as follows. First, Dyeing techniques of diffusing image pattern are wet-dyeing and printing. There are plangi dyeing, salt dyeing, alcohol dyeing and ikat dyeing in the wet-dyeing and spray dyeing, discharge dyeing in the printing. There are tie-dyeing, rumpling-dyeing and plank-dyeing in the plangi. Second, Forming of the diffusing image pattern are due to uneven seeping and the contingency of a chemical reaction by reducing the pressure and intensity. Third, Aesthetics of diffusing image pattern are extracted purity missing childhood, fantasy escaping facts of the situation and abstraction representing informal world from formative characteristics of diffusing image pattern.
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