• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.129-143
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• 2012

This study focuses on the application of collage techniques to contemporary fashion and intends to show that collage techniques have a significant influence on contemporary fashion, leading to a more creative design aesthetic through the combination of fashion and art. The author carried out an empirical analysis focusing on domestic and global fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2010F/W, fashion publications, and internet data, along with a literature review. As a result, the papier-colle approach, as represented by cubism, showed a creative surface effect through the texture of the paper itself by applying real paper and other materials directly to the clothing items. Second, Dadaist ready-made expressed a distortion of the material and freedom of expression by creating a collage with ready-made fashion items and daily necessities. Third, a photomontage expressed unique images by printing various images of photos that contrasted in perspective. In addition to this, beauty in dissonance and a new sense of space by a collage of disparate material. Fourth, decalcomanie was expressed by printing methods, giving a stable image of the symmetry of the perfect landscape as well as the unintended effect of coincidence in abstract images and particular textures. Fifth, assemblage as the representative collage technique of pop art introduced the overall object itself or modified form by combining it with fashion to express three-dimensional aggregate structures.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.112-127
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• 2010

Primitivism is a concept that expresses and organizes natural feelings of human beings which is hard to be identified by a rigid definition. It means "staying in the beginning or the initial state, not evolving or developing, and not affected by human beings from the intact natural state". Based on this meaning, the artistic style features inherent natural beauties, as well as plain and inornate design. These features have been reflected in a variety of art pieces. The aesthetic features shown in the primitivism art pieces can be categorized into four different aspects: naturalness, folksiness, sentimentality, and humorousness. These features, influencing modern fashion, have been reinvented by a number of fashion designers. They also adopted ideas from the fancy clothes and ornaments created in carefree life style of the regions retaining their primitive cultures, such as Africa, Oceania, and Pacific coasts, and applied those ideas to various silhouette, colors, patterns, and textiles. Particularly as for textile expressions, they tried printing techniques using the patterns motivated from primitive folk symbols or the nature, applied objet of primitive materials and elaborated ornaments that represent folk and primitive feelings, and employed the primitive techniques such as knotting, crude cutting, or natural draping, to reinvent them as textile expressions in modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.106-124
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• 2013

Compared to traditional fashion design, modern fashion design is used as a means that creates original and multiple types of beauty beyond fixed and standardized concept and form. Overlapping technique is the most suitable means to shed classical, authoritative and conservative form and it enables diverse borrowing and quotation for creation. This study aimed to analyze overlapping techniques that are expressed in art, architecture and fashion to find out its characteristics in the field of fashion. The result of this study is as follows. Based on theories of visual perception and advance research, types of overlapping technique were classified as pile, repetition, penetration and transparency. When comparing overlapping techniques in modern fashion with those of painting and architecture, fashion was distinctive in that it had movement and communicativeness through overlapping of fashion and the human body. Therefore, the overlapping technique has wide application and adaptation and can cause specialty, movability, communicativeness and collectivity, which can arouse psychological inspiration.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.705-714
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• 2010

This study has the purpose of classifying the types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in relevant monthly magazines and analyzing the characteristics of the techniques. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are classified into single and composite types according to decorative components. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, gold and silver foils and embroideries, embroideries and seonchigi or embroideries and stitches is usually used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. More notably, Korean traditional costumes for women shown in monthly magazines released during the period as mentioned above were investigated to find that a part of the women's clothes, that is, skirt was in most cases decorated with brilliant embroideries. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have brilliant patterns on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Consequently, since 2010, flower motive patterns which are important in modern fashion trend will be used in embroideries, gold and silver foils. Additionally, embroideries such as seakdong, applique, drawing made with modern style will be the main stream of new HanBok style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.32-51
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• 2022

This study analyzed the characteristics and expression techniques of men's fashion bags and their aesthetic and formative values in modern men's fashion from the perspective of neo-deconstructivism. The study subjects were men's fashion bags appearing in four collections in Paris, Milan, London, and New York in the 2019 S/S-2021 S/S season. As a research method, the characteristics and expression techniques of the new disintegration of men's fashion bags were analyzed and categorized through prior research and literature research. The results of the study are as follows: First, the neoclassical characteristics of men's fashion bags caused 'Re-creation' to appear as the dissolution of the design principle and structure of the bag, and it was derived as 'decomposition of form' and 'decomposition of dress method'. Second, the 'Inclusive Diversity' of modern men's fashion bags of neo-deconstructivism appears in the form of gender demarcation and dissonance coordination. Third, 'Playfulness' in men's fashion bags involves the pursuit of fun through unconventional changes in the shape, size, and design of the bag, and it sometimes provides a fresh, new play experience through unpredictable design elements. Fourth, the 'Pursuit of new values' in male's fashion bags was a characteristic wherein the boundary between DIY attire and daily clothes and high fashion by the individual selection of consumers was blurred. This work is meaningful in that it conducted a basic study of men's fashion bags by examining the modern men's fashion bag from the perspective of the philosophical trend of neo-deconstructivism and categorizing its characteristics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.111-126
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• 2011

Cultural collage phenomena came to the fore where various differing elements combined to make a reality in the post-modern culture. Collage, a technique with which to express a unique sense of texture has been used since a long time ago by fashion illustrators, finds itself expressed in much more diverse forms and characteristics, and its meanings changed, too. The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of collage as expressed in fashion illustrations since 2000s and look into its aesthetic meanings, and in doing so, examine effects of changes along the times that have sought plural diversity on fashion illustrations. This study selected and examined from various collage techniques three collage expression techniques including papier colle, photo montage and assemblage frequently used as techniques of fashion illustrations. Papier colle technique expressed in fashion illustration simplify forms, thereby stressing linear elements, and express lines and planes At the same time, such works provide depth to planar spaces by overlapping objects and putting together differing elements, In fashion illustrations utilizing photo montage more than one images taken from photos are cut up and reconstructed, where illusory and sometimes shocking images are conveyed through particular forms or unrealistic compositions created by casual combination of unrelated images. Unique and eccentric images are conveyed by means of assemblage through the combination of various kinds of heterogeneous materials in fashion illustrations. This not only conveys fashion images sensitively but presents each fragment as objets regardless of its original functions, and attempts at new concepts.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.379-386
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• 2024

The purpose of this study was to pay attention to the increase in the frequency of expression of butterflies and insects, whose decrease in the number of individuals is symbolized as a measure of environmental pollution, among the various motifs of nature as we go through the COVID-19, when we realized the importance of nature. The scope of this study was limited to fashion collection fashion show photos and interview articles of online for fashion collections from 2019 to 2023. As a result of the study, 185 butterfly motivation fashion design appeared, and digital printing techniques were the most used as a type of plane expression method. Along with this, techniques such as quilting, embroidery, and beading have appeared a lot as techniques to express the planar motif of butterflies. As for the three-dimensional expression types, 3D printing, laser cutting, corsage techniques, and draping techniques showed similar proportion. It can be seen that the expressed butterfly motif had more realistic description the shape of the butterfly as it was than abstract expressions. In conclusion, it can be seen that the butterfly motif fashion design over the past five years contains a stronger message about the environment than the butterfly motif fashion in the past. It was confirmed that it is a motif with a great symbolic meaning that can convey an eco-friendly message beyond just the morphological beauty and colorful design elements of the butterfly.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.906-917
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of expression and their effects of New painting in fashion illustration since 1990s. This study is focused on searching for the development in expressional techniques of the fashion illustration on the basis of various techniques of New painting. New painting as a trend of new expressionism in America was developed in opposition to the minimalism in the 1980s when the discussion of the post-modernism was most widely. The artists of New painting attempted to resurrect figure through the representation of figure and concrete image, rich in color and strong in image. They also expressed the realistic scene of life with the various kind of medium, materials and styles and appropriation of image from mass media and popular culture. The representation of fashion figure and image through the various kind of painting medium, techniques and styles can express the realistic and sensitive image and increase the communication ability in fashion illustration. It could also deliver the fashion message more clearly through the appropriation of image. These findings indicate that fashion illustrations accept variety by interacting with fine arts and expand the scope of expression.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.151-156
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• 2007

Slashes, deprived from the Crusaders' military uniforms, take their places among the fashion terms in modern fashion, and they are represented with some techniques such as fraying fabrics or making holes. Slashes are also used in various ways across all the fashion areas including clothing to accessaries. Slashes, which were once used to represent a solid body and to make a body move suitably, are used not only to express the formative of clothing but also to allow wearing sensations and functionality to wearers depending on their daily lives and the movements of their activities in modern fashion design. Optical illusions of fashion, image variabilities, functionality and ornamentation, and design principles, which were once represented with materials, colors, and details mainly used in fashion designs, are represented using slashes in modern fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.345-363
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• 2024

This study aims to analyze fashion design cases using traditional elements based on the research and analysis of traditional folk cultural paper-cutting crafts in China, and to expand the area of fashion design using traditional elements by developing 3D digital fashion design. For herein, the techniques and characteristics of Chinese paper-cutting crafts were investigated. This survey facilitated an analysis of the formative characteristics of battery crafts in contemporary fashion design. As for the analysis case, the case of using battery crafts expressed in modern fashion for 10 years from 2010 to 2024 S/S was selected. The results are as follows. First, the typical characteristics of Chinese paper cutting technology-relief, micro-carved, combined with relief and micro-carved expressive techniques of engraving art effect-can be explored by analyzing contemporary fashion case collections through the perspective and trend of leading traditional culture. Second, in the traditional paper cutting process, most paper-cutting works are expressed in red, but white and black are mainly used in fashion, in addition to the active use of the five colors. Third, the characteristics of contemporary fashion patterns primarily utilize the paper-cutting process, incorporating elements such as plants, animals, and geometric patterns. Fourth, the utilization of paper cutting in 3D digital design offers time and economic benefits, allowing for quick adjustments to various design developments. In contemporary fashion, it is expected that the use of paper cutting can provide useful creativity and value for the inheritance and modernization of traditional culture.