• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.345-363
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• 2024

This study aims to analyze fashion design cases using traditional elements based on the research and analysis of traditional folk cultural paper-cutting crafts in China, and to expand the area of fashion design using traditional elements by developing 3D digital fashion design. For herein, the techniques and characteristics of Chinese paper-cutting crafts were investigated. This survey facilitated an analysis of the formative characteristics of battery crafts in contemporary fashion design. As for the analysis case, the case of using battery crafts expressed in modern fashion for 10 years from 2010 to 2024 S/S was selected. The results are as follows. First, the typical characteristics of Chinese paper cutting technology-relief, micro-carved, combined with relief and micro-carved expressive techniques of engraving art effect-can be explored by analyzing contemporary fashion case collections through the perspective and trend of leading traditional culture. Second, in the traditional paper cutting process, most paper-cutting works are expressed in red, but white and black are mainly used in fashion, in addition to the active use of the five colors. Third, the characteristics of contemporary fashion patterns primarily utilize the paper-cutting process, incorporating elements such as plants, animals, and geometric patterns. Fourth, the utilization of paper cutting in 3D digital design offers time and economic benefits, allowing for quick adjustments to various design developments. In contemporary fashion, it is expected that the use of paper cutting can provide useful creativity and value for the inheritance and modernization of traditional culture.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.17-32
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• 2017

Modern society has been transformed into a digital emotional society that could gradually be seen, felt, and enjoyed by the diversification of personal consumption desires due to digital development. Accordingly, in fashion, an original fashion sense that arose out of classical and conventional thinking has become important and there is an increasing interest in patchwork quilts. The purpose of this study lies in contributing to the development and utilization of creative and emotional fashion design by expanding the mental changes that have emerged in modern society to creative areas after analyzing the classification and expression characteristics of the type cases of patchwork quilt techniques expressed in modern fashion. In addition, it is meaningful to examine how the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts are expressed in the digital emotion era. This study paralleled literature research and empirical case studies. In the scope and method of research, the theatrical research was centered on literature data. For visual data, website photos were collected, limited to women's clothing among the collections from Fall & Winter 2014 to Spring & Summer 2017. After drawing the expression types of patchwork quilts extracted from the previous research based on the design formative factors, the fashion-related expert group analyzed the expressive characteristics of 501 photographs in which the patchwork quilt of the designer clothing collection were reflected. As a result of analysis, the expressive types appeared in the order of diversification of techniques and materials, extended dual images, new formative composition, and reconstruction of traditional patchwork. In this study, the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts expressed in contemporary fashion are analyzed and drawn as variability, compromise, convergence, and playfulness. Through this, it is hoped that this study can be used variously in the development of fashion design by expanding the interpretation of costume culture.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.191-206
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• 2016

A designer representing an avant guard fashion, Martin Margiela introduces experimental collections that seek ideational and ideal values, breaking away from limits of popular universality or usefulness of fashion. This study seeks to interpret Martin Margiela's design characteristics from the perspective of ambiguity, and thereby examine theoretical basis of meaning interpretation of his ambiguous and innovative design. In poetic meaning ambiguity is verbal nuance which gives room for alternative reaction the same piece of language. By way of study methods, concepts and characteristics of ambiguity were examined based on William Empson's seven types of ambiguity, and characteristics of Martin Margiela's fashion design were analyzed from the perspective of ambiguity. In the study, expression of ambiguity in Martin Margiela's fashion design was categorized into ambiguity of forms, that of meanings, and that of existence. Ambiguity of forms could be found indeterminate form of clothes and flat clothes. Ambiguity of meaning refers to ambiguity arising from the possibility of the meaning that fashion design is going to convey diverse interpretation. Ambiguity of meaning could be found up-cycling vintage clothes, semi-couture, signs of time, unfitting size, and symbolic letter. Ambiguity of existence could be found inanimate dummy, face shrouded with a veil and expression of multiple identity. In Martin Margiela's fashion design ambiguity gives rise to joy of something fresh, amusement felt about what deviates from normality and the possibility of fashion design's endless creations.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.670-683
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• 2006

Such trend offers new fashion designs as a formative art with creative spontaneity. The purpose of this study is to seek to work out fashion design methods whereby fashions can be developed into an art form embracing handicraft premium textures, geometric formativeness and traditional beauty so as to satisfy the individualist expression desires of modern people who pursue practicality, originality, and beauty of simplicity. This art form also allows new images to be expressed. The corresponding methods studied include the space and technique of patchwork that can create artistry and aesthetic functionality into differentiated levels of images, and geometric ion from Mondrian' works. Fashion designs based on patchwork technique and the characteristics of Mondrian's works reveal that the patchwork technique using diverse materials is an artistic technique with high handicraft value. This technique provides new value to traditional aesthetic materials of clothing, and that Mondrian's unique designs are very effective in developing new fashion designs because they provide artistry and unique effects to modern fashion expression.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.35-45
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• 2019

This study was initiated to add value to fashion illustration as a genre of plastic art, as its importance as a progressive visual art is growing. The research purpose is to analyze characteristics of Grotesque, a subculture that emerged from the challenges and problems of groups which deviated from social and cultural trends, and to develop fashion design illustration utilizing the characteristics unique to that subculture. As a method of research, this study examined the characteristics and expression methods of Grotesque, which appeared in fashion literature, referenced a prior study of Grotesque, and developed fashion design illustration using Grotesque as a based. The result of this study are as follows. First, the characteristics of Grotesque that are applicable to fashion illustration were derived as 'evil, aversion, playfulness, heterogeneity, and abnormality'. Second, the expressive elements of Grotesques, reflecting the beauty of ugliness, present a methodology for developing new and creative fashion design illustrations. Third, it was found that Grotesque fashion illustration is a visual tool that is suitable for expressing the problematic origins of human existence, values, alienation, and social chaos. Fourth, 'arthropod' motifs were identified as a suitable theme for extracting the newly integrated Grotesque images through the process of contradiction and confrontation between humans and objects. Fifth, the Grotesque fashion illustrations could be understood in terms of plastic arts, and could provide a gateway to rediscovering human dignity. Based on the finding, we expect that creative design thinking and development that combines the motifs of various themes and Grotesque's expressive methods will proceed more deeply and specifically.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.175-192
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to provide the characteristics and development direction of K-fashion and to systematize the strategic features performed by government agencies, fashion associations, fashion companies, and other companies to activate K-fashion. This research analyzed K-fashion related articles published in major newspapers and magazines in Korea from the late 1990s to early 2017. The results of the study are as follows. 1. The characteristics of K-fashion are as follows: The first is a trendy and sophisticated design with modern sensibilities, unique designs that reinterpret the latest trends with designer creativity, practical and popular designs that ordinary people can wear comfortably in everyday life. The second is functional and trendy materials. The third is excellent sewing technology. The fourth is rapid turnover of products by quick connections among planning, production and sales. The fifth is a lower price than quality. 2. The direction for K-fashion to pursue was the continuous and ongoing development of the above characteristics and the creation of a 'design with the Korean emotion of its 5,000 year history'. 3. The following projects were carried out to promote K-fashion. 1) Utilization of K-pop, K-drama and other Korean wave content. (1) Holding a fashion concert event that combines Idol's K-Pop performances with fashion shows. (2) Hallyu (Korean wave) star's costume support and design collaboration with Hallyu stars. (3) Collaboration between entertainment companies and fashion companies. 2) Nurturing a global fashion branding project. 3) Business support for overseas expansion of the K-fashion brand. (1) Support project for foreign trade fair participation. (2) Holding a fashion brand fair in Korea. (3) Overseas business support by establishing a showroom and design center 4) Business to discover and nurture new designers

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.139-154
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• 2007

Wellbeing means the new life style leading a rich and nice life in which body and spirit is combined organically, and influence of wellbeing culture extends throughout the society. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Korean wellbeing fashion. Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines from 2001 to 2005 were analyzed. The styles and materials and colors were examined from 1,151 wellbeing fashion designs that is based on wellbeing culture. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. The styles of wellbeing fashion in Korea include sportive, ecology, ethnic, retro styles in order. 2. Wellbeing fashion in Korea increased double in 2005 compared to 2001. Not least, sportive style and ethnic style rapidly increased. 3. Materials of wellbeing fashion in Korea include cottons, wools, chemical fibers, silks, jutes, functional fibers in order. Particularly the use of cottons in 2005 increased three times compared to 2001. 4. Of wellbeing fashion colors, yellow in bright tone were present the most, followed by white, red, black, green, blue, grey in order. Natural colors, vivid colors, pastel tone colors were used.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.158-175
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information to Korean fashion designers who wish to advance to the overseas collection. This is done through analyzing the design characteristics of Japanese young fashion designers, Tsumori Chisato, Commuun, and Limi Feu, who have successfully launched their designs into the Paris collection and became global fashion brands. Collections of each brand were analyzed by the overall fashion style and design elements. For the overall fashion style, Tsumori Chisato used a romantic style using details with various ornaments, whereas Commuun shows minimal style with a simple silhouette. Limi Feu expressed avant-garde style with experimental patterns. Moreover, these brands expressed different style to other brands by applying Japanese traditional clothes, patterns, and Japanese techniques in modern view point. In terms of design elements, these three brands used the H-line silhouette. Tsumori Chisato used loose fit; Commuun, slim line; and Limi Feu, boxy silhouette. In the case of colors, materials, patterns and details, Tsumori Chisato showed mix & match with various colors, materials, patterns and details. Commuun used mono tone with black & white using only one or two materials. Limi Feu usually used the color black with cotton. According to the style of the brand and region of the collection, the main characteristics of the design and the application of Japanese traditional elements can be different.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.434-445
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• 2014

The meaning of this research is to make recognition for necessity of ergonomic fashion design research. And the purpose is to provide the guidelines for ergonomic fashion product development. For this, literature research and analysis of empirical illustration of product design indicating ergonomics characteristic are implemented. Among the body-conscious active sportswear, cycle wear, swim suit, and skin scuba wet suit were selected and analyzed. Then they were explained according to the ergonomics characteristics arranged previously. Lastly, the features of ergonomic fashion design were arranged by composition elements of the clothing such as pattern, sewing, material and detail. The characteristics of ergonomic design derived from literature and advanced researches are efficiency, usability, functionality and safety. Through research and analysis, the characteristics of ergonomic fashion design are as followings. In pattern, it is related to the 3D structure division pattern, the reduction pattern design, the closing & opening part design for easy detachment, the receipt and the changeable design. In sewing, it is related to the use of latest sewing techniques and the finish using silicon or rubber band. In material, it is related to the use of high performance fabrics and the proper arrangement of these. In detail, it is related to the convenient detail, the storage detail, the adjustable detail, and the body protection detail.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2022

In the fashion industry, the demand for new perspectives to express creativity has always been high. Expression of new perspectives allows creative ideas to emerge, thereby breaking away from habitual and familiar perceptions. The purpose of this study is to identify and analyze how the theory of defamiliarization is being applied in fashion design by the brand Münn, which claims defamiliarization as a design philosophy. The study examined the concepts and the characteristics of Viktor Shklovsky by literature review and derived the main characteristics of the defamiliarization theory for fashion design analysis based on studies that used defamiliarization in other fields. Furthermore, after analyzing Münn's collection, we found how the main characteristics of defamiliarization derived from reviews were expressed in Münn's designs. The defamiliarization in Münn's collection was first, 'breakaway from stereotype' appeared through re-recognition of perception and unexpected use of heterogeneous materials. Second, 'distortion and analogy through image' was revealed through the East and West clothing-making methods, which broke away from the stereotype of image and the juxtaposition and cultural reconstruction of details. Third, 'transition of viewpoint' was shown as an avant-garde sense through the conversion of usage purpose of design, material, or items in which subjects and objects were converted with conceptual design and material or silhouette.