• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.161-173
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• 2003

The purpose of this paper is to classify fashion and trend, and examine how his fashionable philosophy reflects design. What affects his fashion philosophy is Western culture and Paris Revolution. Taking this opportunity, he outgrew the concept of haute couture and established specific fashion philosophy. His fashion philosophy is classified under consideration for women, respect for free emotions, recognition of tradition, and an active intercourse with many people. The characteristics of design through his philosophy are as following: 1. He wanted to release women from clothing restrained the body and make comfortable clothing which everyone can wear. This implies the consideration for women. It is the characteristics of his design to the harmony of functionality, simplicity, decoration and popularity. 2. He respected the free emotions and induced people to wear each parts of clothing which is dismantled freely within the limits coincided with clothing teleology-'wear', It implies autonomy. He also unfolded experimental design: gives the regular space between the clothing and the body and then distorts the body or maximizes modeling. It implies the beauty of space. 3. He elicited the modern design through recognition of tradition. It implies contemporaneousness. 4, As he thought that all of the concepts is based on human, he derived inspiration firm an active intercourse with many people, He established a new style through an active intercourse with artists because if he works alone, he would rise above the popular trend, It comes to the gest artist serieE and implies popularity, The characteristics of design in his fashion philosophy is classified into experimental design and practical design. But the important factor of his fashion philosophy is popularity so he would like to make popular clothing. He designs clothing which fit the public. It results from his firm fashion philosophy that his clothing is practical and decorative and he establishes his works meeting needs of modern. It is the reason that his clothing has perpetuity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.127-138
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• 2011

The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.71-82
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• 2011

This paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather and also analyzed the expression techniques and characteristics of leather in contemporary fashion. The objective of this study lies in re-interpreting the current location of leather in contemporary fashion design, enlarging unlimited potential expression fields of leather, and at the same time, helping create new viewpoints and expression types of leather. For this purpose, this paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather through the existing literatures, and it also carried out positive analysis of the expression techniques and characteristics of leather clothes through local and foreign fashion magazines and collection papers, such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode, focusing on the works presented in the fashion collections after 2000. Leather in contemporary fashion is expressed in different colors through dyeing. Through various expression techniques such as wrinkles, ruffle, stitch, embossing, quilting, patchwork, holing, nailing, cutting, laser cutting, fringe, weaving, printing, and collage, leather breaks the fixed ideas of itself and further, it makes the images of fashion design affluent. Leather clothes, which are made through various expression techniques, have some characteristics. First, leather clothes emphasize women's voluptuous beauty. Second, leather clothes create a decorative effect through mixture of materials and various expression techniques. Third, through the feel of materials and the emphasis of shapes, primitive beauty is expressed.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.51-74
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• 2015

The purpose of this exploratory research is to study Cashin's fashion philosophy and to draw her design characteristics through analysis of her work. As a result of this research, 76 garment pieces were selected from the 180 Bonnie Cashin collections at the University of Cincinnati to document and evaluate. The final selection includes: sixteen jackets, fifteen skirts, five pants, five tops, seven dresses, twenty five coats, and three capes. Bonnie Cashin specialized in practical and functional; yet innovative designs such as leather trimmed tweed Jackets/coats, canvas raincoats, suede leather coats, and ponchos. Her trademark elements include toggle closures, oversized pockets, her Noh coats, tweed suits, canvas raincoats, fringed suede dresses, funnel neck pullovers, jersey dresses, and ponchos. She emphasized function and comfort and she believed that a good design must also be practical. The examination of these 76 pieces from the University of Cincinnati's private Bonnie Cashin Collection brings to light Bonnie Cashin's creative design and what she represented in the development of American fashion design in the $20^{th}$ century.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.145-163
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• 2016

This paper analyses Wassily Kandinsky's abstract paintings. this paper aims to discuss phases of Kandinsky's works as well as their formative characteristic theory. Practically, with formative characteristics in Kandinsky's paintings such as point, line, plane, form and color, this paper presents four sets of costumes. Among which, geometric patterns are intensively collaged as the formative characteristic of "point" calls for; crossed necklines and waistlines are applied as the characteristic of "lines" represents; plane and solid patterns are adopted as the main parts and ornaments as both the characteristic of "plane" and that of "form" claim; three primary colors - red, blue and yellow - are introduced as the characteristic of "color" depicts. Artificial leathers are used as the main fabric, patchwork and draping as so in technology. Therefore, with the theoretical and practical efforts, this paper aims to seek the interdisciplinary possibilities between paintings and fashion arts, and in order to develop several fashion designs representing modern aesthetics with their unique characteristics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.259-266
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• 2017

In a contemporary fashion along with the advance of high technology, development of a new material is being increasingly emphasized and the need of creative convergence using a computer is being expanded. As a global designer who appeared through association between Japan and the West, Issey Miyake has been continually pursuing a new challenge and a solution using high technology, leading the globalization of Japanese fashion. This research aims at examining design characteristics of Issey Miyake collection's A-POC showing a new paradigm, that is, an innovative clothing manufacture system to input information on materials, colors and shapes into a textile machine based on the computer program and manufacture a cylindrical fabric for completion of seamless clothing without sewing or cutting. A-POC is evolving continually through the development of new materials including recycled fibers and organics together with diversification of processing technology. Besides, it shows design characteristics including an integrated manufacturing method, autonomy for customers' selection, practicality for comfortable wearing by the majority, environment friendly idea to reduce waste of fabrics and materials and a new presentation through convergence of exhibition concepts of modern art. This research on Issey Miyake's A-POC characteristics is expected to present a role of fashion designers in a new design idea and paradigm of contemporary clothing using high technology.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.97-111
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• 2023

Dynamic orphism images expressed with abstraction and construction in color are often found in modern fashion. Orphism stressing color is one of the many art trends that influence fashion. This work aims to examin its expressive effects and characteristics that appear in fashion and provide basic materials for fashion design study. This study proceeds with the following steps. First, the study takes on a theoretical examination of the orphism trend using a literature review. Second, based on its results, modern fashion's expressive features influenced by orphism are analyzed. Third, the study draws expression effects in modern fashion from these characteristics. The study coverage is confined to domestic and foreign collections released in the 21st century. The study contents come from an Internet-base domestic and international database and published material, including dissertations and books. Orphism expression effects are found in the following ways in modern fashion. First, it lies in the abstraction effect of color. This feature arrays flat geometric figure on the clothing surface and applies a strong sense of color inside it, as if color has an abstractive structured design. Second, it gives a dynamic sense visually to the clothes all at once by stressing the relation among and between the colors with powerful contrast. Third, it has a collage effect of color. This effect develops into an organic combination composed of geometric plane figures with intense complementary colors in a single piece of clothing. Expression types that presents the orphism effect in fashion are divided into clothing showing traditional orphism characteristics faithfully and clothing expressing conventional orphism characteristics mixed with modern trends. Further developed orphism fashion can be classified by the playful type, with graffiti added onto an orphism color structure, and the destructive type, where traditional orphism color orders are taken apart and reformed into a new color order.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.171-187
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to grasp the meanings of retro-fashion, to research the design characteristics and background on the birth of repro-fashion. It can help to confirm the importance of aesthetic marketing which is based on human feelings, the roles and cultural and industrial meanings. Reto-fashion Is one of the mediums between the expression of Post-modern fashion and emotional sympath of human beings as consumer and fashion creators. So this inspiration is the way of fashion creativities. The backgrounds of appearance repro-fashion are reflection about materialism and technique and 20th century, the sense of instability and finding new ideas from the past. The characteristics of retro-fashion designs are as follows : First, the styles have been come from 50's. 60's, 70's, and 80\`s. It means that the styles not just expressed to return to the past simply but an expression the emotional state for missing the past. Second, the colors and materials are various also as like styles. Third, the decorations of repro-fashion are more crafts by human. The roles of retro-fashion are for creation of high valued product in fashion design, expression of individuality with disharmonized coordination and application as a fusion style. The cultural and industrial meaning of repro-fashion are endowment of aesthetic marketing using human feeling in fashion marketing area and pursuing of the Renaissance of fashion culture and industry. Therefore it is needed that design critics and analysis going side by culture and industry condition for fashion study with human feelings in 21th century.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.21-36
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• 2016

The purposes of this study were to find out how the characteristics of Chinoiserie in the perspective of the West have influenced on the contemporary womens' fashion. 440 pieces of photo data for this study were collected, focusing on Paris collections as a fashion capital of Europe, for the period of 10 years from 2005 through 2014. The results of this study are as follows. The impacts of Chinoiserie have increased consistently since 2009. The reasons for the increased impacts are assumed that the influence of Chinoiserie on the contemporary fashion rekindled it, as the worldwide attentions to China have been growing since Beijing Olimpic, Aug. 2008. Reviewing by seasons, the trend of Chinoiserie has been more distinct in F/W season comparing with S/S season except year 2007 and 2011. Considering the results of analysis for each designer, Leonard and Shiatzy Chen, the designers of Chinese-origin, appeared to apply the characteristics of Chinoiserie on the contemporary fashion most successfully, while European designers, such as Dries Van Noten, Valentino, and Jean Paul Gaultier, also appeared to accommodate actively the design styles of Chinoiserie in their fashions. Moreover the Asian designers, such as Aesuro Tayama, Andrew GN, and Kenzo, had been using Chinoiserie as a means of providing oriental ambience. The results of this study would be helpful to design and plan the fashion items which are scheduled to enter Chinese markets by Korean designer brands and fashion enterprises. In addition, it is considered that these results would help Chinese designers understand the design characteristics of Chinoiserie which have evoked empathy of people all around the world, when they make Western stage debut in the future.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2000

Kitsch is one of the various mass-cultural phnomena in the late 20th century, with it's own new aesthetic value, 'self-expression' through 'destruction', denying the existing established way of thinking and escaping from the stereotypes or fixed ideas. This is called 'aesthetic inadequacy'. The purposes of this study are to examine the different preferences between the western and the domestic Kitsch Fashions to investigate the formative and aesthetic characteristics of domestic Kitsch Fashion based on substantial data, and to propose the creative Kitsch design. The results of this study are as follows; 1. The formative characteristics of domestic Kitsch Fashion are marked by amusement, disharmony, epicureanism, satire, and use of imitation. 2. Then, based on theoretic research, this study applies aesthetic characteristics of Kitsch to the creative design. According to the formative characteristics for Kitsch Fashion, the Design Concepts are developed in order of Optimism, Multi Form, Decadence Chic, Neo-Naturalism, and Poor Vintage. And the Fabric direction is given in Design Story with sub theme such as Cheerful, Game, Decadence, Environment, and Grunge.