• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.163-180
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to investigate the main characteristics of the environment-friendly design expressed in Koran fashion. Environment-friendly design can be categorized into choice of material, extension of products life cycle, and recycling design. In this study, Korean fashion designers can be found having the conciousness of environment for fashion design since 1990. First, in choice of material, the designers used Natural fibers which are cotton, linen, wool, and etc, and used natural dyes. Some of the designers have moved from using real fur to using fake fur for animal welfare. But fake furs produced from synthetic or regenerated fibers have the environmental problems during textile production processes. Some of the designers used fake leather made from the skins of an edible fish which are otherwise going to waste. Secondly, Design for extension of products life cycle can economize the resources and energy. Design for extension of products life cycle are classified into reversible clothing, many function clothing, modular style, patina clothing, simple style, and layered look. Finally, recycling design are classified into recycling of daily necessaries and expression techniques of recycling design which are designer's works used patchwork, mash techniques, and handmade of knits or buttonhole stitch.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1274-1290
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• 2010

This study analyzed the design elements and fashion images of women's knitwear in collections of Paris, Milan, London and New York between 2003 and 2008, and examined knitwear trends in an effort to verify whether knitwear trends are repeated in certain cycles, whether they show complicated patterns in cycles and yet occur in quasi cycles, or whether they occur non-periodically in complicated forms of chaotic cycles. Trend cycle analysis results are deemed to identify the time series attribute of knit fashions. It also sought to categorize the attribute of various factors influencing knitwear trends with a view to determining relevancy between design elements, and to present the direction of predicting knitwear fashion trends and the progression of short-term knitwear trends. This study reached the following conclusion. According to design elements or fashion images, knitwear fashion trends occur in cycles, quasi cycles, non-periodical cycles. These cyclic characteristics can be used as scientific data for planning knitwear products. The study confirmed close relevancy between fashion images and fashion elements. It identified close relevancy between designs with similar fashion elements and images through coordinates by year and season, and it is possible to make short-term prediction of trend direction through the flow of coordinates. Time series data were insufficient, thereby making it difficult to perfectly verify chaos indices and giving limitations to this study. A study with more time series data will produce a more effective method of predicting and using knitwear fashion trends.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.543-554
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to find whether hemline cycles exist and whether hemlines show greater within-year variability over time. Utilizing US Vogue data from 1950 to 2013 on hemline length of women's daywear, total 2102 day-dresses or skirts on full fashion pictures were analyzed. The skirt length was divided by the total length of figure in the picture which was measured from shoulder to ankle. Aggregated yearly means smoothed by means of three-point moving averages were used to provide a better indication of the long-term direction of movement of the hemline. Within-year hemline variability was smoothed by the way of three-point moving average as well. The data showed five cycles on hemline change processes. The first cycle took 21 years from 1950 to 1971, which was the longest period and had the biggest hemline changes. The second cycle was the shortest from 1971 to 1977, in which hemline moved between below-knee length and midcalf. The hemline in the third cycle moved between midcalf and miniskirt. The third cycle took 16 years from 1977 to 1993. The forth was a short cycle from 1998 to 2001, and hemlines moved moderately between below-knee length and above-knee length. The fifth cycle has been on going since 2001, and the hemline has been getting longer after 2007. The within-year variability of hemlines was bigger in 1980s than previous years and was steadily increased.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.647-657
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• 2016

This study investigated domestic and foreign cycle wear sizing systems for the domestic market and provided basic data for development of a high functional cycle wear with excellent fitness qualities. Each brand was found to have different dimension items and different sizes as well as size deviation and range according to each item. Therefore, a size selected by referring to the dimension items would be expected to have confusion when selecting a size. Domestic brands are able to selects sizes relatively easily because they suggest sizes mainly by height and weight (which are a universal size). However, the development of a sizing system for domestic cycle wear brands is needed because each brand have different sizes according to its dimension items. Foreign brands are also different from domestic brands in size marking items and sizes according to items. Therefore, the establishment of a sizing system standard for foreign brands is necessary because there could be a problem with fitness in the same sizes selected for domestic brands. Cycle wear is also able to cover various body types due to the elasticity of its material; however, and evaluation of fitness and a follow-up study will be necessary to develop cycle wear with a fitness that is proper for a Korean body type.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.654-665
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• 2019

The process of clothing production creates waste and scrap, which creates environmental, economic, and ethical issues. With this in mind the concept of ethical and sustainable fashion is discussed on many platforms as an important and timely topic. Many solutions have been presented on this subject. For the solution of this problem which has been increasing in the fashion and textile industry, the usage of sustainable materials and production methods is needed. There in a 'recyclable material cycle' should be adapted, instead of a 'traditional material cycle'. New methods and techniques should be developed with multi-disciplinary design approaches to produce creative and high value-added products in the name of fashion and sustainability. This is seen as one of the more effective solutions. This study aims to show that production scraps can be transformed into timely clothing designs with samples. The fabric scraps from different brands were turned into unique clothing designs with up to date trends by designer. In the practices completed while following the design process, collage and patchwork techniques were applied depending on the characteristics of the scrap fabric, artistic figures were hand-stitched onto the design. With this study, the scraps that get thrown into dumping grounds and damage the ecosystem can turn into ethical and economic benefits for the manufacturer. How to choose new high value-added products and create an awareness of social responsibility is also shown with examples in this study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.717-729
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• 2019

This study defines critical fashion designs and investigate its critical messages on fashion itself. The critical messages on fashion are categorized into two major issues of a fashion industry system and fashion consumer culture. This study contributes to the understanding of meaning and value for critical fashion messages that match critical art. As the research method, this study combines a literature review and case studies and the research scope focuses on cases that have appeared in fashion media since the 2000s when social critical messages in fashion began to emerge. The results of the study are as follows. Critical designers such as Viktor & Rolf, Elisa van Joolen, Issey Miyake, and Mary Ping have delivered messages challenging the nature of fashion industry system that criticize the cycle and limitation of a fashion system and pursues changes in perception of sustainability. The critical message on fashion consumer culture articulated by designers such as Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Hussein Chalayan, and Ricarda Bigolin & Nella Themelios insist on the formation of community while delivering a critical message on social, political, and cultural problems that raise the mechanism of social awareness through fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.571-583
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• 2018

'Dress of the Year' by the UK Fashion Museum in Bath suggested an ideal role for a fashion museum and created fashion history along with the development of fashion journalism. A case study and literature research identified the characteristics of this scheme in terms of roles and functions for a fashion museum and defined them as: suggestion of collection cases, data construction for fashion research, and contribution to fashion critique. First, it suggested a good case of collection process. The 'Dress of the Year' creates a museum identity with a collection selected by designated journalist reviewer every year in order to maintain and strengthen a virtuous cycle. Second, it contributed to the accumulation of data for fashion research. The vast amount of data accumulated for more than 50 years became a fashion history that shows the change of fashion trends with a value of public confidence. It presented the possibilities of fashion research in various perspectives. Third, it contributed to the development of fashion criticism. The development of fashion journalism was conducted on the initiative of 'Dress of the Year' as well as contributed to the birth and growth of fashion journalists.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.321-337
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• 1992

Fashions are constantly subject to change, so that forecasting trends in fashion is very difficult and the forecasting is very important. The reason is that forecasting is identifying a hot trend for the next days' business and projecting the future. The purpose of this study is to suggest the realistic forecasting theory identify fashion trends at present, further forecast fashion trends to 1995. For this study, historical models (th historical resurrection model, the historical continuity model) and the art movement model among the behavioral science models which was suggested in 1986 by Geoge B.Sproles were selected. According to this study, was exhibited. This curve was resulted from relation between 1980s fashion trends and the behavioral science models of fashion. Fashion trends to 1995 through will be followings; 1. Body Conscious look as one of the characteristics of modern fashion will bi continued throughout 1990s' fashion trends. 2. The attraction of Mini style was started from the middle of 1980s, recently gets near micro mini and super shouts, These are representative of the historical continuity model. 3. Mini look as revivals of '60s in early 1990s fashion trends. This phenomenon identifies that "Fashion is repetition" 4. When Mini look and super shorts reach, will not progress any more. In this time, will bi seen transfer of style be using classic style. Tat is modern classic will be appeared. also this condition is same from late 1960s to early 1970s. In view of the historical base, the action of the varieted pants will be prominent. 5. Fashion trends which passed through this process will transfer from young look to elegant look. In this time, designers will retrospect '30s and '50s fashion trends, and then will design modern feminine look. 6. Ethnic look, the fashion trend after that condition will be accelated feminine look. This look with the feminine look will reveal rich, colorful, elegance feminine image. 7. In 1980s, activity and function in clothes were demanded. The clothes which are considered these condition will be demanded continuously. 8. The variety of fashion will appear as mixmode and new coordinate look in a clothes simultaneously in fashion of '90s. And these looks will creat mixed beauty. 9. Pop art, op art, graphic art will be not only development of textile but also movement of fashion soul in 1990s. The fashion behavior will be continuously scientificated.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.177-198
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• 2000

The major purpose of this study is to obtain the evident and visual data about the changes of Korean dress with a socio-cultural context through dress depicted in the Korean films since the 1960s. For this purpose, after were Korean socio-cultural background including the history of Korean films and mass fashion trends reviewed, total fifteen Korean films by ten year were selected on the basis of contemporaneity popularity, and fashionability, and analyzed with the data reviewed before. And the results can be summarized as follows : Dress in the Korean films of the 1960s shows sporty casual took influenced by western style, with the popularity of young fashion and youth film. The typical styles are sac dress and mini skirt fur women, and suit with American silhouette for men. Unisex mode including slim T-shirts and blue jeans with European silhouette supt appears mainly in the Korean films of the 1970s, with the change of sex roles and mass fashion trend. Dress in the Korean films of the 1980s is characterized by bold silhouette and decorative details. with the boom of erotic metro-drama and luxurious fashion trend, such as padded jacket, X silhouette ensemble, brig look coat for women, and American style suit for men. Dress in the Korean films of the 1990s shows the rapid cycle of fashion with the increase of casual wear, reflecting the popularity of romantic comedy film and various socio-cultural circumstances. As a result, the current of dress depleted in the Korean films since the 1960s is summarized as the cycle of fashion accelerated, the similarity between men's and women's wear, and the increase of sporty casual wear. Also, dress in the films reflects effectively the socio-cultural context related to fashion except for especially emphasizing characters in films.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.383-394
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• 1996

Even it's not easy to in the cycle of the change without the qualification of the data, but we can try to figure out a cycle of change in fashion as Kroeber used content analysis. As content analysis with quantitative data increases the objectivity, especially in the case of highly complex materials like s appearance, multi-directional research method; quantitative and qualitative methods are combined in this study. In this research, first the change in hair length(HL), hair width(HW), hair height(HH) was examined to find out possible cyclic aspects of change in each elements and the significant relationships among the hair style was probed and the cyclic aspects between hair style elements and skirt style elements were compared. The data was analyzed by using Time series analysis and Pearson correlation coefficients. The statistical analysis of the hair style of 20th century showed that the hair style's elements changed independently and indicated the cyclic aspects in hair style as Kroeber's fashion cycle. To consider of this result, the hair style changed in a cyclic pattern, its pattern were different from skirt style's. And as hair style's change was affected by change, the hair styles change appeared during wars and disappeared during a social stabilization; this result supports social change theory.