Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.38
no.2
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pp.191-200
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2014
This study represents "an artialization of fashion" that may be regarded similar to art with a focus on luxury fashion brands. In the $20^{th}$ century, fashion began to share a similar language with art and became a central part in popularizing art. Fashion and art were drawn to each other in mutual fascination. Fashion studies arouse from disciplines like anthropology, sociology and art history as well as from aesthetic experiences and commercial characteristics. Fashion is very complicated phenomenon; therefore, a study on the artialization of luxury fashion brands needs to be approached for aesthetic and commercial aspects simultaneously. This study combines a literary survey with a case analysis of the relation of fashion and art as well as inquires on the artialization of luxury fashion brands based on discourses. The discourses are: first, fashion is an art, second, fashion and art differ in relation to the intention, third, fashion and art have mutual-borrowing. In view of the results achieved in this study, luxury fashion brands can achieve increased effectiveness through art. This study reveals the effects that luxury brands achieve through art versus a discussion on if fashion is art or not and if the relationship is moral or not.
“The ultimate aim of the anthropology of art [fashion] must be the dissolution of art [fashion].” Alfred Gell, Art and Agency (1998) This study aims to rethink fashion by examining issues that have emerged out of recent writings in the anthropology of art. Since their inaugural coinciding, sound discussions have emerged between the anthropology of art and the art world, addressing such subjects as: ‘artworks and artefacts’, ‘Western and non- Western discourse’, and ‘art and agency’ (Gell 1992; 1993; 1996; 1998). This study is comprised of a series of discussions, the subjects of which follow: the relationship between fashion and art; art and the anthropology of art; and in parallel with this, examining the possibility for an anthropology of fashion. This study employs a qualitative approach based on the discussion of relevant literatures dealing with fashion, art and art theory for its methodology, followed by a brief examination of a case of the Vivienne Westwood exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in terms of an empirical account.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.40
no.6
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pp.1072-1084
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2016
Over the years, the relationship between fashion and art has received significant attention in fashion studies. This study seeks to research and inquire on the relation of pastiche strategies with art-works in fashion advertising with a focus on luxury fashion brands. Pastiche means 'the exhaustion of creativity' and can be represented in fashion advertising's borrowing of art-works. This study examines the concepts of fashion advertising and pastiche, focusing on the relation between fashion and art. Based on this as a framework, this study examines cases of art-work in fashion advertising, then reveals the effect that luxury fashion brands achieve through art. Unfortunately, every case cannot be confined to pastiche, but drawing on the strategy of pastiche allows us to show how art is being used in advertisement as well as how fashion and art are being changed.
This study investigated the concept of fashion as art by examining whether or not university students, rather than professional art critics, consider fashion to be art. The survey subjects were 146 university students, randomly chosen from textiles and clothing-related classes offered in 4 different universities in Seoul. A survey with the following 3 questions was conducted between September 2005 and June 2006: 1. What is art? 2. Is fashion art? 3. Explain the reason why fashion is, or is not, art. Morris Weitz's open concept of art is applied to discuss whether fashion can be classified as art. According to Weitz, there are no universal commonalities among arts. Therefore, art can be defined based on similarities among preexisting art forms and movements. As a result, respondents mentioned the following as characteristics of art: expressiveness, creativity, influence on viewers' emotion, tendency to make life bountiful, particular behaviors or objects, something valuable, formalities, etc. These answers parallel the features of art discussed by professional art critics. In addition, 12 of the 146 respondents considered fashion was not art, 20 placed it on the border while the remaining 114 affirmed a positive relation. Respondents who considered fashion to be art or placed it on the border listed the similar features mentioned in the answers to the first question as similarities between fashion and art. On the other hand, features of fashion such as commercial, whimsical, impermanent and utilitarian properties were answered as dissimilarities between fashion and art. However, these dissimilarities do not serve as obstacles for considering fashion as art, since Weitz's open concept of art does not assume the existence of universal traits of art. Therefore, referring to Weitz's open concept of art, fashion can be considered as art, since reasonable similarities between fashion and art were designated by the majority of respondents.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the art world's perspective on popular art and the contact point with pure art and to present the requirements of fashion as a popular art. To analyze the artistic value of fashion, this study analyzed and presented the requirements of art by linking the innate characteristics of fashion premised on mass consumption of popular art. The research method consisted of content analysis focusing on books and papers on art and fashion. A critical perspective on expansion of the artistic field amid the blurred boundaries of art is the basis of a critical comparison between popular art and avant-garde art and a critique of popular art as opposed to value-oriented art. Conversely, as a point of contact with popular art with fine art, art is discussed against the ideological strategy of fine art and the shift in hegemony brought about by erosion of the barrier between art and everyday life. In addition, the non-essentialist perspective contradicts the division theory of popular art. The requirements of fashion as a popular art were analyzed based on the value of self-expression through the aesthetic pursuit of creativity and aesthetic expression, discourse as art, and expansion of modern art from the inessentialist perspective of popular art.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.37
no.4
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pp.577-589
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2013
Fashion is traditionally perceived as a non-art in art philosophy; however, it is now being evaluated as art through the process of recognizing its cultural value and position. This study investigated the expanded concept of contemporary fashion in the same context of the expanded concept of contemporary art to present the possibility of fashion as art. This study enhances the artistic and cultural value, as well as the social function and position, of fashion by granting it the same status as art according to the concept of expanded contemporary art. For the research method, a literature review and a case analysis were conducted through specialty publications related to art history, aesthetics, and fashion in addition to regular publications, websites specializing in fashion, art museums and fashion style websites. The expanded aesthetic concept of contemporary art has embraced challenges to ideal beauty, production methods through interactivity, and expansion of art expression through mass media and industrial products. In the same context, the expanded aesthetic concept of contemporary fashion has established challenges to conventional beauty, the expansion of production methods, and the expansion and transfiguration of materials.
The purpose of this research is to classify that fashion and art in the twentieth century broadened the creative field by individually applying each other's ideas or through collaboration. This paper analyses the work of individual artists and fashion designers who created work on the boundaries of fashion and art. These samples are selected to extract features related to specific periods as it is proposed that contemporary creation has been developed from a combination of fashion and art, sharing their distinct concerns. Accordingly, this research will focus on the collaboration between fashion and art in the twentieth century from the aspect of 'fashion into art'/'art into fashion' in order to analyse the historical flow, and thereby examine the relationship between fashion and art. The cross-fertilization between fashion and art was initiated as an imitation of form in the early twentieth century, and led to a 'new cross-disciplinary form' which exists on the boundary of fashion and art. This paper considers the relationship between fashion and art from the perspective of sharing intrinsic concepts and the creation of a new creative sphere. It analyses the characteristics of the works of fashion designers and artists whose works lie on the boundary between fashion and art.
OP-Art was not appreciated by painters and art critics. and according1y has been forgotten in art history. But recently Op-Art is revitalized in fashion and is in its palmy days. This study intends to re-assess the value of Op-Art, by reviewing its influence on fashion design in the post-modern society To this purpose, conceptual characteristics of Op-Art was analyzed. And then, on the bases of these characteristics, the figural characteristics and the meaning of Op-Art in fashion design of post-modern society was re-explained. Op-Art is characterized as an art of flatness of picture plane which uses repetition of simple forms and colors. It is also based on trick of visual perception. Finally. it creates an impression which is flickering or vibrating by means of optical illusion. These characteristics give birth to some features such as simplicity. anonymity and mobility in the Op-Art fashion. The meanings of Op-Art in fashion design in post-modern society are as follows. First, repetition of simple units employed in Op-Art produces feeling of simplicity. which makes the Op-Art fashion works perceived as polysemy. In other words, the feeling of simplicity can be interpreted In diverse perspectives within the social context of our society. The material civilization and technology civilization, which causes the alienation and standardization of man. can be the backgrounds of the Op-Art fashion. Second, Op-Art is an art based on perspectives of spectators. Anonymity in the Op-Art fashion enhances participation of spectators. which gives Op-Art a sense of affinity. Third, through the feeling of mobility created by optical illusion techniques. the Op-Art fashion expresses the opposition to the ideal body image made by power group. In post-modern society, Op-Art in fashion gives new meaning to art. Op-Art in fashion proposes new roles of artist and spectators, and new concepts of art related with roles of human beings. Through general sensibility of men, Op-art in fashion can express new recognition of the post-modern society.
In researching the ontological status of fashion, a good grasp of fashion can decide the direction of fashion study. Fashion is sometimes considered an area of industry far from art from a point of view of purity of art, in spite of its aesthetic value and expression. However, art properties can be differentiated from the purity of art in modern aesthetics, and fashion properties which were the reason for that fashion to be considered as non-art can be affirmed as the same with properties of contemporary art properties. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to suggest the possibility that general properties of fashion can be accepted in the art arena through justifying art properties deviating from the purity of art. It can provide a boost to fashion's cultural status. For the research method, a literature review and case analysis were carried out through specialty publications related to art history, aesthetics, and fashion, regular publications and websites specializing in fashion, and art museums. Through the research, art properties deviated from the purity of art, which are; tactile sense, impermanence, dailiness, and commercial viability, were justified as being the same as fashion properties. These art properties were not general properties of fine art in modern aesthetics, but the ones occurring in contemporary arts. These properties, now present in contemporary art, can no longer disqualify fashion as a non-art.
This study was aimed to make clear fashion is an expression art displaying not only functional or commercial aspects, but creative functions as an artistic work by analyzing Art Mode and its values, and to help develop more creative design by combining fashion with art. In terms of method, relevant documents, precedent studies, and the works announced in domestic and foreign fashion collections, such as Vogue, Fashion News, Gap, and Collections from 2000 to 2009. According to the findings, artistic works were used by the Art Mode in modern fashion. The respect of artists was expressed using historic famous painting works or current works in various fields, designers' individuality was shown by directly applying work messages to clothes, and fashion design was converted into a tool to communicate the messages like artistic works. Second, the various styles, using the formative character of modern art styles from animalism to modern abstractism, showed the creativity of design, transformed art into the art that enables to see the image of modern art, and presented the possibility of developing into a newer creative design through the application of numerous art styles and the transformation of ideas. Third, the collaboration with artists was used. Fashion designers or fashion brands tried to change the images of works or brands in partnership with artists or to increase differentiated images. The future direction of fashion is a pursuit of new form and content to express fashion, not simply to use artistic works. It is expected that such pursuit will lead to more creative and artistic fashion design.
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