• 대중서사연구
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.135-158
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• 2019

본고의 목적은 기예르모 델 토로의 <판의 미로>(2006)를 환상영화로 평가하게 해주는 특성과 그것에 밀접하게 결부되어 나타나는 미궁의 모티프의 의미와 기능을 고찰하는 데 있다. 츠베탕 토도로프는 '환상적인 것'을 현실에 침입한 초자연적인 사건에 직면하여 자연적 해석과 초자연적 해석 사이에서 겪는 망설임이라고 정의하였는데, <판의 미로>는 그 망설임이 사라져 환상적인 것이 '기이'장르나 '경이'장르로 들어가도록 하지 않고 그 상태가 그대로 유지되도록 하기 때문에 이 영화에서는 환상성이 계속해서 잘 드러난다. 이때 미궁은 환상계로 들어가는 통로이자 그것을 대표하는 공간으로서 예술을 상징한다. 로즈메리 잭슨은 환상이 "문화적 속박으로부터 비롯된 결핍을 보상하려고 하는 욕망의 문학"이어서 무의식적 제재들을 반복적으로 다룬다고 보았는데, 델 토로의 영화는 환상 세계에서 가족 로맨스가 이루어지도록 함으로써 욕망의 표현으로서의 환상의 특성을 잘 보여준다. 이때 미궁은 욕망의 장소로서 마음을 상징한다. 캐스린 흄은 환상이 미메시스와 같이 현실에 대한 반응이자 '일치된 현실로부터의 이탈'이라고 정의하였는데, 이 영화는 '비전'장르로서 '대조'의 방법을 통해 환상계가 현실계를 비추도록 함으로써 그 정의를 충족시키고 그것이 가진 환상성을 돋보이게 한다. 이때 미궁은 현실계의 거울로서 세계를 상징한다. 이처럼 <판의 미로>는 환상적인 것이 매우 효과적으로 기능한다는 점에서 환상영화를 대표할 만하며, 이 영화에 나타난 미궁은 예술, 세계, 마음의 세 가지를 모두 상징하여 의미가 충만한 모티프라고 평가할 수 있다. 본고의 의의는 위와 같은 고찰을 통해 한 모티프가 특정 장르에서 작용하는 방식을 조명한 데 있다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.682-693
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• 2013

Camouflage is evaluated by scientific principle in the fields of biology, military science, and art. It has a strong influence on contemporary fashion and means exposure with concealment. This study analyzed the visual characteristics of camouflage patterns in fashion design through documentaries and fashion photos. The fashion design results areas follow. The simple blending of a disruptive motif indicated an inaccurate repetition of a disruptive motif, the discontinuous or continuous connection of disruptive motif, the irregular repetition of a disruptive animal silhouette, the collage of a different disruptive motif, the craft of a disruptive motif and the intensive color match of a disruptive motif. It represented the maximization of complication, fantastic and fanciness. The overlap of a disruptive motif showed the overlap of disruptive print patterns with transparency and an overlap of different fabrics with a disruptive pattern. It represented spatial relationships of three dimensions as well as the maximization of visual illusion and the reinforcement of attractiveness. The blurring of a disruptive motif showed the pointage of disruptive motif, the pointage of image, value gradation, the whole blurring of a disruptive pattern cluster and stained appearance. It represented the obscurity of motif form, the uncertainty of object and double meaning. The trompe l'oeil of a partial background object showed the realistic and the painterly imitation of color and texture for partial objects through a close-up. It represented amazement and pleasure by illusion, scarcity and the decoration of surface and synecdochical remind. In conclusion, camouflage in fashion was weakened and modified from a classical military context by a unique expression of various motifs.

• 복식
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• 제21권
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• pp.207-218
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• 1993

The desire of our contempories who wish to recover humanities fading away and get back recover humanities fading away and get back to the nature is emerging as a main theme of the fashion today the decade of facing 21st century. The prevalence of naturalness-ecology ru-ral peasant look-and ethnic look shows the tendency mentioned above. Kenzo Takada' works which exhibit this naturalness and ethnic look were picked and investigated. The objective of this research is to study the beauty of form and internal and investi-gate in what form the naturaless and Ethnic look in Kenzo's work. The result were as followings : <1> Draped form are mainly used as form and they are made neglecting the body line by straight-cut and provide the wearer ease and freedom of movements <2> As for the color fantastic original colors (red, blue, etc) and natural colors are used. And Strong color contrast is seen. In ethnic look original colors(red, blue, etc.) natural colors and ethnic colors are used. <3> As for the fabric Cotton neat skilk and wool etc are used mainly and use of such natural fibers represents the return to the natural well. <4> As for ornament natural things-straw hat flower feather pebble, shell-are used and exhibit natural feelings strongly. For the ethnic look ornaments representing each country's ethnic atmos-phere by hat scarf and neckcloth made of natural fibers. <5> As for naturalness Flower deer butter-fly leopard and plant etc, are used as motif. As for ethnic look flower geometric motif are used.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.878-890
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• 2008

As a pioneer of modem dance, $Lo{\ddot{i}}e$ Fuller($1869\sim1928$) was important because she introduced a free style dance using a new style of stage costumes. Also, $Lo{\ddot{i}}e$ Fuller was an important motif in $fin-de-si{\grave{e}}cle$, French arts, posters, sculptures, and so forth. This study aimed to clarify the characteristics of Fuller's dance and costumes, and to analyze the modernism in both. To better understand Fuller's dance, this article talks about research on Fuller's career, dance, and Fuller's own biography. Stage costumes, letters for patent, and photographs were are also studied. The most important elements of Fuller's dance were her costumes and the electric lights which could make free style expressions a fantastic representation of dance. To clarify the modernity of Fuller's dance, first of all, this study researched Fuller's career in dance and then analyzed representations of Fuller's dances in visual arts; posters, sculptures and lastly, the characteristics of Fuller's stage costumes. As a result, this article analyzed characteristics of Fuller's dance in three points. First, Fuller used sculptures of silk cloth's drapery to express physical movements and actions. Second, Fuller used lighting and electrical effects that had just been developed in the late 19th Century. Third, Fuller made an application for patents against stage costume and stage mechanisms for her original shows. This study focused on $Lo{\ddot{i}}e$ Fuller's stage costumes which played a main role in expressing fantastic sculptures for the first time in costume, visual arts, and dance studies. This study clarifies the characteristics of the stage costumes in Fuller's dance and is estimated as pioneering and fundamental research.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.642-652
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to understand the concept of a sexual image and verify the method of its design expression through case studies of the sexual image evening dress shown in an Haute Couture Collection over the last 10 years (2005~2014). The results of analysis are as follows: First, "expression by the seeing through of the natural body" expressed a natural sexual image that combined fashion of the previous times with the beauty of the natural body by using a see-through material and classic or ethnic image. Second, "expression of a sexual-image look that emphasizes romantic detail" illustrated a romantic sexual image that emphasizes feminine sensitivity by mixing various ornamental elements such as see-through material and symbolism of underwear image. Third, "creation of a nude look using skin color" expressed sexual image of an evening dress by inducing erotic sexual association through a combination of opaque material of skin color and design shape that is intended for body exposure. Fourth, "combination of sexual symbol and heterogeneous elements" expressed a decadent, avant-garde and futuristic sexual images by using women's underwear and a sexual symbol as design motif and mixed with mismatching elements. Fifth, "use of a fantastic black image" expressed an exclusive and refined sexual image and a decadent and primitive sexual image by using a fantastic image of black color. The results of this study are expected to be used for the design process of the evening-dress industry that aims for quality improvement.