• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.33-40
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• 2013

This paper focused on investigating the seam strength by cutting direction depending on the fabrics and weave by comparing the tensile strength and elongation of bias, warp and weft of 4 kinds of find cotton fabrics and combining 6 kinds of seam cutting directions. The cutting directions are selected the warp direction, weft direction and 45-degree bias direction. Then, three kinds of directions, the warp/warp direction, the weft/weft direction and the bias/bias directions, and the three different kinds of directions, the warp/weft direction, the warp/bias direction and the weft/bias directions, were finally selected. The results are as follows: The tensile strength of all fabrics was higher in the order of warp, bias and weft direction and tensile elongation was higher in the order of bias, warp and weft direction in almost all fabrics. 100's and 150's cotton fabrics showed the highest seam strength when they were cut in the bias/bias direction. The seam strength of the fabrics cut in the same direction was the highest in the fabrics cut in the bias/bias direction. Four kinds of fabrics demonstrated the similar seam strength. However, for the seam strength of fabrics cut in the different directions, 100's cotton fabrics had the difference of seam strength by direction and weave, but 150's cotton fabrics didn't have any difference in seam strength by direction and weave. As described above, the seam strength was influenced by the cutting direction of fabrics. Accordingly, the seam strength can be improved by changing the cutting direction of seam when making the clothing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권9_10
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• pp.1453-1464
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the hand of spring/fall fabrics for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' on subjective hand, objective hand and the preference. In this study, 28 varieties of spring/fall fabrics such as cotton fabrics, synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' are used. To evaluate the subjective hand of fabrics, the holistic touch and preferences, 33 seven ranks' segmentic differential scale questions are developed with adjective pairs and are gathered by surveying experts on clothes. The mechanical properties, HV and THV of them are measured and calculated by KES-FB system. Through subjective hand, items could be classified into six hand expressions: 'bulky/extensibility', 'stiffness', 'feeling of weight', 'surface property', 'drapability' and 'moisture property'. Through mechanical properties, the results indicated that the character of cotton fabrics are slight flexible, tough, rough, uneven, a bit heavy, thick and low resilience on tensile and compression, and then those of synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric are thin and light, smooth, flat and bulkless. In correlation on subjective evaluations and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok', cotton fabrics mainly depend on 'surface property' and 'moisture property' and then synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk depend on 'bulky/extensibility' and 'surface property' In correlation on objective hand and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok'. people aren't satisfied with low resilience. high stiffness and low drape.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1129-1140
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• 2009

The pine needles has been used as medicines and it is using as dyeing as well as food. It is distributed through 50% in Korean forest. The pine needles is related to antimicrobial activity, however, dyeing properties of the extract components and effects of them are not well known yet. To examine dyeing properties of the pine needles extract, various fabrics(nylon, silk, wool, and soybean) were dyed under different dyeing conditions, and mordanted with one of five mordants(Al, Sn, Fe, Cr, and Cu). Dye uptake, Colors and Colorfastness of the dyed fabrics were measured. By the K/S values, dye uptake of all the dyed fabrics enhanced as increasing dyeing temperature and dyeing time. The highest K/S values were obtained from the protein fiber(wool and silk) fabrics dyed with water extract at $100^{\circ}C$, and with ethanol extract at $90^{\circ}C$ for 80 minutes. Colors of the dyed fabrics showed variety of yellow, brown and green colors. Colors changed by using Cu, Fe and Cr mordants: Cr-mordanted fabrics into light green, Fe-mordanted fabrics into reddish brown, and Cu-mordanted fabrics into deep green in ethanol extraction. Dry-cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics presented good to excellent except wool fabrics dyed with ethanol extract. Washing fastness of the dyed nylon and soybean fabrics were good to excellent but wool and silk fabrics showed average grades. Most dyed fabrics were poor to light fastness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.169-179
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• 1988

In the part 1, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's fall & winter fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 90 commercial fabrics for women's fall & winter clothes were classfied into 39 silk and 51 polyester fabrics according to meterials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. Furthermore, there mechanical properties as well as their hand values were discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. The shape of silk fabrics in formation for weared clothes show a box-shaped silhouette. Polyester fabrics has a easy to shape-less and make a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have ${\pm}1\sigma$ range of bending, shearing, surface properties and thickness as compared with kimono fabrics. 3. A wrinkle recovery and drapability of silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes are inferior to kimono fabrics. On the other hand, the fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have conical-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity. 4. Except for flexibility with soft feeling, a primary factor of mechanical properties contributes to the hand values of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes having no concern with materials were same as the women's summer fabrics. 5. As for the hand values of fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are larger than those of kimono fabric and stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, crispness of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have smaller values as compared with Korean women's summer fabrics.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.24-35
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• 1999

This study was carried out to investigate the changes of surface characteristics of polyester fabrics on the deposition and the removal of oily soils from polyester fabrics in detergency, The relations between the removal of soil and the changes of surface properties of polyester fabrics treated with water- and oil-repellent agents were discussed before and after various wash cycles. Two kinds of fluoropolymers were selected as water-and oil-repellent finishing agents. The effects of water- and oil-repellent finishes were determined by the water repellency and oil repellency. The surface properties of untreated and treated polyester fabrics were evaluated with respect to contact angle and wicking time. The treatment of polyester fabrics with fluoropolymers improved efficiently water repellency, oil repellency, contact angle and wicking time. But those properties were greatly decreased after 3 times of wash cycles in detergency The deposition of oily soils on the untreated fabrics was drastically increased with increasing of wash cycles. The deposition and the removal of oily soils from fabrics treated with fluoropolymer having hydrophobic components were very low after various wash cycles. The deposition and the removal of oily soils on the fabrics treated with fluoropolymer having hydrophilic components were high comparatively after various wash cycles. Even though the surface properties of treated fabrics were greatly decreased with the increasing of wash cycles, the remains of oily soils on the fabrics were lower than those of untreated fabrics in various wash cycles. But the remains of soils were drastically increased after 10 times of wash cycles in any cases.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.556-564
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to analyze the effect of the structural properties, the color characteristics and the texture of sight and touch on the tactile preferences for the black fabrics. Male and female university students were asked to evaluate the texture of sight and touch and tactile preference to the nine different black fabrics which were selected on the basis of the previous research results. Data were analyzed by using frequency analysis, mean, factor analysis, t-test, F-test, correlation and regression analysis. The texture of sight and touch for black fabrics was classified into four factors: smoothness, bulkiness, extensibility, firmness. This texture of sight and touch factors showed a significant correlative relationship to the structural properties and color characteristics of the black fabrics. There were significant differences according to black fabrics on the point of texture of sight and touch. The velvet was evaluated the most smooth fabric, while the velvet and fake leather were evaluated the most bulky fabrics. Also, the jersey and lace fabrics were evaluated the most extensible fabrics, while the melton was evaluated as the most firm fabrics. There were significant correlative relationships not only between the structural properties and the texture of sight and touch but also between the color characteristics and the texture for black fabrics. Also, among the structural properties, the color characteristics and the texture of sight and touch of black fabrics, major variable factor of influencing on the tactile preference was turned out to be the texture of sight and touch.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.143-154
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• 2017

This study was conducted to develop fabrics using non-toxic and eco-friendly natural dyes made from curcuma and coffee extract. The natural dyes were applied to non-printed cotton fabrics using the dip dyeing method, and the pattern was hand-printed onto the dyed fabrics to make dyed printed-fabrics. The four types of developed fabric samples were compared to analyze the effects of the dyeing materials and printing on the hygienic properties of curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics. The findings were as follows. First, air permeability of both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics was greatly affected by the presence of patterns, although the type of dye did not seem to have an effect. Printing greatly reduced air permeability of the fabric, and coffee-dyed fabric showed greater reduction of dyeing method than curcuma-dyed fabric. Moisture regain also tended to decrease with printing, but the change was much smaller compared to air permeability. Second, increased UV blockage was observed in curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics with patterns compared to non-printed fabrics, showing that printing enhanced UV blocking. Third, deodorization rate tended to increase sharply for both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics until 30 minutes and gradually increased thereafter to yield 30% for curcuma and 50% for coffee at 120 minutes, demonstrating higher deodorization of coffee dye. Coffee-dyed fabric showed an antibacterial rate about twice as high as that of curcuma-dyed fabric, and the observed data suggest that curcuma-dyed fabric had an insignificant level of antibiosis. Fourth, printing significantly enhanced wash, sunlight, and compound colorfastness of the two types of dyed fabrics. The effect of printing was most dramatic on sunlight and compound colorfastness, which are aspects in which natural dyed fabrics perform poorly in general. Eventually, the development and application of biologically- and environmentally-friendly fabrics with natural dyes correspond with increased interest towards the wellness and healthy attitudes of modern society.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.365-374
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• 2013

The purposes of this study were to evaluate the color characteristics and color sensibility of mulberry/cotton blended fabrics dyed with indigo, the natural dye, and analyze effects of them on color preferences. The values of CIE $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$ $C^*$, h were calculated for the color characteristics of indigo-dyed fabrics, and their hue, value, and chroma were calculated according to the Munsell color system. Fifty male and female college students evaluated the color sensibility of nine types fabrics dyed with indigo on a seven-point scale. The data were analyzed by descriptive statistics, factor analysis, Kruscal-Wallis test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The mulberry/cotton blended fabrics naturally dyed with indigo showed the characteristics of PB color tones, low value, and low chroma. The color sensibilities of fabrics dyed with indigo were classified into four factors: 'classic', 'sporty', 'elegant' and 'natural'. There were significant differences according to the fibers and the repeating times of dyeing in the color sensibility for the fabrics. Cotton fabrics were evaluated to be more classic, sporty, elegant, and natural than the mulberry/cotton blended fabrics, and the deeper the color, the more classic, sporty, and elegant the fabric was evaluated. The students preferred the indigo dyed fabrics which have more classic, sporty, and natural sensibility. There were significant relationships between the color sensibilities and colorimetric properties of the fabrics dyed with indigo. The color preferences of the dyed fabrics with indigo were found to be influenced by the 'classic', 'sporty', 'natural' of color sensibility.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1038-1052
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze present the pattern making of the lining fabrics calculating the right ease and rising quantities of arm-hole when the pattern of the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics is produced. The outcomes of this study are as follows. The right ease of lining fabrics was not room of 0cm as patterns being same the right side of fabrics in the girth of the chest, waist, and the edge of a garment and gets the most excellent valuation, and then the girth of the chest, and waist was applied to 2cm and around the edge of a garment 0cm in regular lining fabrics. In addition to, although the ease of patterns of the lining fabrics was more, it was not necessarily to satisfy. The result of the valuation according to the quantities of rising arm-hole of the pattern of the lining fabrics showed that the making lining fabrics that the quantities of rising arm-hole was 0.8cm in the body and 1.2cm in the sleeve in the both the stretchable fabrics and regular lining fabrics was the most excellent thing, and then 0cm in the body and 2cm in the sleeve, and then 0cm in the body and 0cm in the sleeve. The valuation of external appearance on the quantities of rising arm-hole was recognized similarly because of being rarely significance level, but around the chest and waist was recognized as being significance level in wearing satisfaction.