• 한국강구조학회 논문집
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.33-42
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• 2010

막구조의 설계에서 막재료의 효율적인 사용을 위해서는 측지선에 의한 재단도 해석을 수행해야 한다. 막구조의 측지선 결정방법은 크게 측지요소(geodesic element)를 이용한 비선형 형상해석에 의한 방법과 임의의 곡면 형상에 대한 측지선 탐색에 의한 방법으로 나눌 수 있는데, 현재까지 이 두 가지 해석법은 모두 3절점요소에 대한 적용알고리즘 만이 제시되었고, 4절점 요소에 대한 해석법은 제시되지 않았다. 이는 막구조의 설계에서 4절점 요소의 적용을 어렵게 하는 가장 큰 요인이라고 할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 3절점, 4절점 평면요소에 동시에 적용 가능한 측지선 결정알고리즘을 제시한다. 이를 위해 저자의 이전 연구를 발전시켜 명시적 비선형 해석법인 동적이완법을 비선형 측지선 형상해석에 적용하였다. 또한 3절점요소 뿐만 아니라 4절점요소에 대해서도 측지요소의 도입에 의한 형상해석이 가능하도록 하였으며, 4절점요소와 측지선요소에 의한 비선형 형상해석 및 재단도 해석예제를 통하여 본 연구에서 제시한 알고리즘의 정확성 및 효율성을 검증하였다. 따라서 본 연구에서 제안한 측지선 형상해석알고리즘은 형상해석, 응력해석, 재단도 해석과 관련된 일련의 해석과정에 대한 4절점요소의 적용성을 높일 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.141-154
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• 2016

1973년 천마총에서 출토된 죽제 천마문 금동장식 장니는 대부분 온전한 형태를 갖춘 국내에는 유례가 없는 유물이다. 죽제 장니의 출토 사례는 천마총 외에도 금관총 금령총 출토품이 있으나, 모두 편으로만 존재하여 정확한 형태나 제작기법에 대해서 알려진 바가 없다. 본 고에서는 천마총에서 출토된 죽제 천마문 금동장식 장니의 화면구도와 제작기법에 대해 육안관찰과 X선형광분석(XRF), X선투과분석 등을 사용하여 알아보았다. 죽제 장니는 3등분할구조를 기본으로 방사선 형태의 중앙집중구도를 이루고 있으며, 표면을 장식한 10매의 투조금동판과 직물판, 죽제판 그리고 외연을 고정시켜주는 4매의 복륜으로 구성되어 있다. 금동판에는 다양한 세공법과 영락장식으로 표면을 장식하였고, 죽제판은 약 300개의 대오리를 사용하여 세올짜기를 바탕으로 집수를 넣어 엮음으로써 물결무늬를 표현하였다. 직물판은 2종류의 직물을 사용한 것으로 관찰되며, 가죽은 부분적으로 존재하여 판으로 제작되었는지는 확인 할 수 없었다. 각 판을 결합하기 위해서 금동원두정과 영락장식, 복륜 등을 사용하였다. 이번 조사로 금관총 금령총 출토품에 대한 기본조사와 함께 5~6세기 신라시대 죽제 장니의 대한 연구에 도움이 되었으면 한다.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.29-44
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• 2013

This study is about the periodic characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty. Wonsam include the Danryeong-shaped Wonsam in the beginning, the compound Wonsam in a period of transition and the stereotyped Wonsam in the late Joseon Dynasty. The formative characteristics of Wonsam are divided into four stages. The first stage of the Wonsam is from the 15th to 16th century. The shape of Wonsam began to form and it was similar to one of Danryeong during this time. The formative characteristics of the first Wonsam included collars that looked like one of Danryeong, side pleats(called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight cylinder-shaped sleeves, and a belt tied with the Wonsam. There were various fabrics that were used for the Wonsam from this stage. Second stage of the Wonsam is from the early 17th to mid 17th century. This period marked the beginning of the transition of the Wonsam and it served as a stepping-stone to the development stage in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of the transitional Wonsam were a complex combination of the Danryeong and Wonsam. During this period, the Wonsam went through many changes and forms in a short period of time. Third stage of the Wonsam is from the mid 17th to early 19th century. The Wonsam was developed at this stage. The developed Wonsam went through a period of transition equipped with a stable form. The formative characteristics of Wonsam during this period included collars that faced each other, big and wide sleeves with multicolored stripes, Hansam, curve-edged side seam and the side pleats(Moo) with multiple inner folds had disappeared. It was a turning point from the single-layered clothes to double layered clothes and from dark blue to green color appeared at this time. The fabric patterns of this stage tended to consist of more simplified silk pattern. The fourth stage of the Wonsam is from the late 19th to 20th century. The Wonsam was expanded at this stage. The formative characteristics and fabrics were typically used for the standard Wonsam and were divided into two types; as a ceremonial robe used in courts and a wedding ceremonial robe for the common people. Phenomena such as sewing of double-layered clothes as one and straight-edged side seam during the late Joseon period developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture.

• 한국화재소방학회논문지
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• 제34권1호
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• pp.11-17
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• 2020

성능위주설계의 설계화원 정보는 피난안전성 평가에 직접적인 영향을 미치기 때문에, 실물화재 실험에 근거한 설계화원의 설정이 매우 중요하다. 복합영상관에 대한 성능위주설계의 신뢰성을 개선시키기 위하여, 상영관 의자에 대한 화재실험을 통해 열발생률과 화재확산속도 등의 화재거동에 관한 정보를 제공한다. 이를 위하여 실제 상영관과 유사하게 배열된 다수의 객석 의자가 적용되었다. 주요 결과로서, 객석의자 1개에 대하여 최대 열발생률과 단위 질량당 발열량은 각각 415~988 kW와 15.2~23.8 MJ/kg의 범위를 갖는다. 신형과 구형 객석의자의 평균 단위 질량당 발열량은 각각 23.6 MJ/kg과 16.7 MJ/kg으로 측정되었다. 즉, 신형의자의 증가된 플라스틱 및 쿠션재의 함량으로 인하여, 신형이 구형에 비해 화재위험성이 높은 것으로 확인되었다. 추가로 객석의자가 일렬로 배치될 때, 점화위치와 상관없이 0.39~0.42 m/min의 화재확산속도가 관찰되었다. 마지막으로 복합영상관의 성능위주설계를 위하여 객석의자의 최대 열발생률과 화재성장률로 구성된 화재성장곡선이 제안되었다.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.15-33
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• 2004

A precise understanding of the human form in static pose serves as the basis of designing clothing. When the human body is in motion, however, even an article of clothing designed to fit the human form in static pose can pull and change, thus restricting the body. In order to increase the fit of the clothing, which may be termed the second skin, its form and measurements therefore must be determined in correlation not only with the formal characteristics of the human body, in static pose but also with its functional characteristics in motion, as caused by the movements of the human body. In this study, the motion factor was selected as the primary basis for designing slacks with good fit in both static and moving states. By indentifying the areas in which lower limb movement cause significant changes in body surface lines, we suggest several application methods for designing slacks. Using unmarried female university students aged 18 - 24 as subjects, a total of 32 body surface categories (15 body surface lines and 17 body surface segment lines) were measured in one static and 9 movement poses. In particular, expansion and contraction levels and rates were measured and used in the analysis. The analysis first involved the calculation of the average measurement per body part in body surface line in static pose as well as of the average expansion and contraction levels and rates in 9 lower limb movements. Two-way MANOVA and multiple comparison analysis (Tukey) were conducted on movements and individual somatotypes regarding measurement per body part and expansion and contraction rates. Body parts whose measurements of body surface lines differed significantly in body surface line in static pose versus in movement were then identified. The results of this study are as follows. First, changes in body surface lines caused by lower limb movements were significant in all body surface lines of the lower trunk, both horizontal and vertical, with the exception of abdomen girth, midway thigh girth, ankle girth, hip length, and posterior knee girth. Second, significantly expanded 10 body surface lines in moving pose were detected and illustrated in table 4. These body parts should be studied in designing or pattern designing, especially for close-fitting pants, in using stretch fabric, and in sensory evaluation of good fit during movement.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the image perception of dress shirts according to perceiver's residency and shirts style, and to investigate the shirts preference according to style of dress shirts, and to find out the men's aesthetics consciousness for shirts, and to analyze between the image perception and the usage of mass-media, for developing the possibility & strategy of the dress shirts market in men's wear market for the apparel marketers and manufactures. For this study, the data obtained from 321 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics, Pearson's simple correlation, ANOVA. The results from the study were as follow ; The 6 stimuli for image perception rated on 5 point Likert-type scales in the 12 features were evaluated by perceivers. By the best 3 features abstracted, shirts style concepts were decided such as, Basic style by the best 3 features of the first stimulus, and Soft style by the best 3 features of the second stimulus, and Sophisticate style by the best 3 features of the third stimulus, and Modern casual style by the best 3 features of the fourth stimulus, and Modern mannish style by the best 3 features of the fifth stimulus, and Trendy style by the best 3 features of the sixth stimulus. The modern casual style was estimated highly by respondents in Daejon. The respondents in Seoul prfered the basic style to other style. There were significant differences in evaluating between preferences of shirts style and pattern. Of the 82 respondents(26.8%) with the preference of bold london stripe, the 52 respondents estimated Modern casual style in bold london stripe. The fashion consciousness of the respondents in Seoul was estimated higher than in Daejon. But, the respondents in Daejon in the consciousness for the coordination knit cardigan and V zone was estimated higher than in Seoul. Also, the 31 respondents with the preference of Sophisticate style were the highest in fashion consciousness. The respondents estimated that the first important thing in buying dress shirts is 'Design(41.4%). and next is quality(17.8%). Results revealed that Daks ranked best brand (13.7%), and Renoma ranked best two brand (6,5%). And, the 35.5% respondents estimated that the first important information which influenced on buying dress shirts was the store display, next was internet(15.9%). Finally, I propose that the best strategy for men with low fashion consciousness is to upgrade salesmen' coordination technic and fabric knowledge, and store management with story attracting customers.

• Composites Research
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.117-124
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• 2016

본 연구에서는 스카프 패치로 수리한 복합재 단일겹침 체결부의 파손강도를 시험과 해석으로 연구하였다. 스카프 비, 모재의 적층패턴, 결함크기를 달리 하며 총 45개의 시편에 대한 시험을 수행하여 파손강도와 파손모드를 분석하였다. 다양한 형상의 시편에 대한 시험 결과, 한 경우를 제외하고는 수리 후의 체결부가 결함이 없는 체결부 강도 이상의 강도를 회복하며, 체결부 인자에 따른 특별한 차이는 나타나지 않는 것을 확인하였다. 파손강도가 낮게 나타난 한 경우에 대한 파손면 분석결과 모재의 표면층인 평직층의 표면처리가 충분치 않은 것이 원인인 것으로 판단되었다. 시험 결과의 분석을 위해 3차원 유한요소해석을 수행하였는데, 유한요소해석에서도 고려한 체결부 인자가 상하부 모재와 패치, 접착층에서의 응력에 큰 영향을 미치지 않는 것을 확인하였다. 이는 단일겹침 체결부의 경우 외부 인장하중이 겹침영역을 통과하면서 상하부 모재로 분산되기 때문인 것으로 판단된다. 시험과 해석 결과 모재 중앙에 결함이 존재하는 단일겹침 체결부의 경우 절차에 따라 패치 접착이 이루어지고, 모재의 표면처리가 충분히 이루어진다면 수리를 통해 손상 전 강도를 회복할 수 있는 것으로 판단된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.276-287
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• 2009

Apparel professionals need to understand the customer to effectively develop, select, and promote apparel products. Analysis of consumer preferences can help in the creative design process. Therefore the purpose of this study was to identify consumer preference by gender in two segmented group; $20{\sim}34$ aged group and $35{\sim}49$ aged group toward men's apparel consumers, considering target customers and female influences on men's wear purchasing. We used questionnaires that were distributed to 600 males and females aged in their 20s to 40s, using stratified sampling method. Only 547 reliable questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Chi-Square and t-test were used to analyze the data, using SPSS program. We obtained the following results: 1. We found that there was a significant association between segmented age group and the preference of men's jacket style. Specially $20{\sim}34$ aged group had a significant association with styles of formal jacket, casual t-shirts, casual pants, but $35{\sim}49$ aged group had formal pants style. Looking at the general percentage, semi-formal jacket, slim fit t shirt, straight casual pants were the most favored styles. 2. Age has an significant effect on the preferences of formal menswear fabric patterns and shirt patterns. The results of t-test showed that there found to be significant by gender in character and check pattern of shirts. 3. In design details, the number of button had not significance by gender, and 2 buttons was th most favored by both age groups. The number of gather at the waist had an significant association in $34{\sim}49$ age group. $20{\sim}34$ age group prefer high waist of pants, while $35{\sim}49$ age group prefer low waist of pants. 4. For on time outfit, formal wear and tie ensemble was the most favored with significant difference by age and gender. Formal wear and no tie ensemble favored by about one third of respondents, and more favored by the younger group. For off time outfit, casual jacket and casual pants ensemble was the most favored.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.46-54
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to understand women's wear manufacturing industries. First, the study was to investigate the present production systems and how much the automatic facility are by comparing them. This study enhanced more efficient, stable, and suitable work line. This intern will direct the way in which automatic facilities will be created. Second, through this study on the general character of the inspectors, the ratio of impaired goods, and the reasons for unsatisfactory goods, I intended to find out a way to decrease the impaired goods and to produce competitive and high quality goods. The results of the survey can be summarized as follows; 1. The result of the research on the automatic industrial facilities shows that the majority of the factories (77.4%) are 40% below the automatic facility rate. The reasons for this according to order are that was a deficit in money, no reason for expensive machines, and lack of the technique and the number of workers required to handle the machines. 2. At this time, the most required equipments are shown according to its importance; automatic sewing machine, automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine, and finishing & pressing machine. So in the women's wear manufacturing industries, they think that they need more automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine in the cutting field rather than high price automatic machine in the sewing field such as pattern former, pocket welting, automatic sleeve connecting machine and automatic label connecting machine. 3. The result of the research in the goods quality shows that the average impaired rate is 12.7% at the first inspection. In addition the average rate for complete impaired rate is 1.52%. The line system shows that it has a impaired rate that is double the rate of the pair system. Because of this, the industries plan to combine the line system and pair system to create an improved and suitable production system which can boost the quality and productivity of the goods. 4. The fabric is the main point of the impaired goods. The factors of the impaired goods in manufacturing are the lack of mental abilities of the worker, impaired fabrics and a lack of cooperation in the working system. Furthermore, there is a lack of technique for new material. 5. To prohibit impaired goods in manufacturing, there need to be a way to educate the workers and to enhance the workers' mind on the productive goods. Also there need to increase in the investments of automatic production machines. Finally there need to be a standardized working line. Therefore, there need to be an improvement on the management of the production of goods, the development of technique and an increase in the education for the workers, with this there will be a decrease in impaired goods, and an increase in better quality of goods to enforce the domestic apparel industries.