• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제18권6호
• /
• pp.1179-1193
• /
• 2010

For a good design, it is important to understand consumers and trend of textile and fashion design. Previous researches on textile pattern design with CAD have been done. They have studied on Korean traditional floral motives/hand painting or some geometric patterns. Few studies have been done on conversational design. Therefore the purpose of study was to observe types of textile pattern design for the recent fiver years and determine fabric pattern trends, especially on the conversational motifs. The types of patterns were analysed with professional panels from the 2005～2009 collection sources, using SPSS program. This study was also develop textile patterns creating using CAD. We conducted design process on motif creating, repeat, and mapping jobs, using textile special design program Prima vision and Photoshop CS3.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제11권4호
• /
• pp.525-540
• /
• 2003

This survey paper aims to compare two significant figures in the history of Haute Couture e.g, Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel, who played a leading role between 1910 and 1930. It is found here that they have common features with respect to giving freedom to body through costume, enlarging Garconne Mode, creating more value of Costume Jewelry, exploiting advertisement strategy using models, proving exotic styles, and last but not the least contributing to Haute Couture. The research shows, however, that Poiret differs from Chanel in that he made most of various natural colors whereas Chanel used black or beige colors that had been rarely used woman wear previously. They also differed in using fabric, permitting copy by others, ingredients and bottling of perfume, meaning of silhouette. This kind of comparative research is expected to provide more understanding of fashion history and to contribute to more rigorous analysis of key success factors of designers in his or her age of fashion.

• 한국디자인학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국디자인학회 2001년도 디자인학연구 2001 봄 학술발표회 논문집
• /
• pp.70-71
• /
• 2001

• 보존과학회지
• /
• 제35권1호
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2019

This study provides a comprehensive evaluation of general characteristics of sized silk fabrics for the painting purpose. Two particular types of silk fabrics used for painting background were compared: a recreation of historical material and a mass produced material of present day. The sizing process made the surface characteristics of the silk fabrics more suitable for painting. The dyeing properties of the fabrics were related to the surface area of the fabrics, and had no significant effect on their mechanical properties. The antibacterial activity of the tannin-based natural dyestuffs were maintained after the sizing. The performance assessment by the KES-FB system showed that the fabrics are more prone to deteriorate after the sizing because the glue layer receives the most of the physical stresses.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
• /
• 제46권3호
• /
• pp.230-250
• /
• 2013

동아대학교박물관에 소장된 <초충도수병(草蟲圖繡屛)>(이하 <수병>)은 보물 제595호로 지정되어 있으며 초충도 회화작품보다 더 정교하고 섬세한 사실적 표현과 다채한 입체적 구성으로 미술사 분야에서 그 가치가 높이 평가되어 왔다. 그러나 <수병>이 자수 작품임에도 불구하고 현재까지 섬유공예적 측면에서의 분석과 연구는 이루어지지 않았다. 본고에서는 <수병>의 바탕직물, 자수색사, 자수기법 등을 과학적 기기를 사용하여 조사 분석함으로써 <수병>의 문양소재와 섬유공예적 특징 및 <수병>이 섬유공예사에서 갖는 가치를 규명하였다. 연구 결과, <수병>은 8폭 병풍으로 이루어져 있으며 소재와 구도는 일반적인 초충도 회화작품과 유사하다. 각 폭의 주제문양은 제1폭에서부터 순서대로 오이, 맨드라미, 원추리, 여주, 패랭이, 수박, 가지, 들국화로 이루어져 있다. <수병>의 문양 중 여주는 현전하는 초충도 회화작품에서는 볼 수 없는 특별한 소재이다. 제8폭은 곤충, 파충류 등의 문양이 없이 들국화만 단독으로 시문하여 초충도의 전형적인 형식과 차별이 있다. <수병>의 직물은 지금까지 장식용 자수에서는 볼 수 없었던 검은색을 사용하여 다채한 색사를 강조하여 극대로 표현하고자 했음을 알 수 있다. 바탕직물은 5매 공단[무문단(無紋緞)]을 사용하였다. 자수사는 극히 미약하게 꼬임을 준 반푼사를 사용하였으며 꼬임의 방향은 우연이다. 한 가지 색의 단사를 사용하기도 하고 때로는 두 가지 색을 병사로 사용하거나 합연사한 혼합색을 사용하여 입체적으로 표현하였다. 색상은 열화되고 퇴색이 심하여 원래의 색은 알 수 없지만 가장 많이 사용된 색은 황색계열에서 녹색계열의 색이며 청색, 갈색, 자색 등이 비교적 잘 남아있다. 원추리, 패랭이, 딸기 등의 색은 현재 적황색으로 남아 있는데 초충도와 비교해 볼 때 원래는 주황색 또는 홍색이었을 것으로 추정된다. 자수의 기법은 대부분 표면평수를 사용하여 면을 채우고 있다. 이를 통해 색사의 낭비를 줄이고자 했던 옛 여인들의 알뜰한 지혜가 엿보인다. 평수는 면을 장식하는 비교적 간단한 자수법이지만 색사를 다양화하고 면을 분할하여, 수직, 수평, 사선평수를 배합하고 때로는 자릿수와 같이 서로 맞물리게 자수하여 다양한 질감과 양감을 표현하였다. 곤충의 몸통은 가장자리수와 이음수, 평수를 혼합하여 입체적으로 표현하고 있으며, 특히 가장자리수의 활용이 주목된다. 그 외 이음수로 잎맥 등을 입체감 있게 나타내고, 제7폭의 쇠뜨기는 표면솔잎수를 층층이 자수하여 사실적으로 표현하였다. 패랭이, 딸기, 오이 등에는 평수 위에 장식수를 더하여 세세한 묘사를 더했다. <수병>은 회화사, 문화사적으로도 가치가 크지만 한국 자수공예사에 있어서도 우수한 한국적 자수기법과 색채를 사용하여 신사임당 초충도의 모습을 가장 잘 표현하고 있는 점에서 큰 중요성을 지닌다고 할 수 있다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제14권3호
• /
• pp.23-36
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study was to identify the status of fashion related subjects in colleges and to utilize it as a basic material to develop a better curriculum. To do this, 43 2-year colleges or 63 majors in Korea were analyzed. From the analysis of the locations of the colleges with fashion related majors, it was found that 51.2% schools with fashion related majors were located in the Capital area. When looking at the division to which fashion related departments belong, it was found that 35.5% belonged to design related division, and 22.6% belonged to Art and Physical Education Division. When analyzing the subjects of the colleges with Fashion Design Department (Major), the subject which took the biggest ratio was Clothing Construction and Pattern Drafting as 32.8% and the next was Design Area as 31.5%. In case of Fashion Stylist Department (Major), the subject area with the biggest share was Design Field (49.5%). If looking into segmented classification, design related subjects were 20.9%, and styling related subjects were 17.9%. In Fabric and Fashion related department, the subject with the biggest ratio was Dying and Textile Design as 40.4%, and Fabric related subjects were the next as 22.3%. In the Broadcasting Stylist related departments, the subjects of with the biggest ratio was Fashion Design related subjects as 37% and the next was Beauty related ones as 30.2%. According to the study result, it could be concluded that Fashion related departments in the colleges located in the Capital area focused on the subjects to nurture a fashion designer and their curricula are not specialized or differentiated but somewhat similar one another.

• 디자인학연구
• /
• 제14권2호
• /
• pp.27-36
• /
• 2001

본 논문은 전통문화의 현대화, 대중화 차원에서 담양지역의 죽세공예 및 죽세산업에 대해서 소비자 및 생산업체를 대상으로 설문조사 하였으며, 특정 죽세품인 대발을 가지고 다양한 소재, 기법, 디자인을 적용하여 샘플실험 및 작품을 제작하였다. 소비자 대상의 설문조사는 새로운 디자인 개발에 의한 다양한 용도의 제품개발에 대한 매우 높은 선호도 및 구매의사를 보여 향후 신제품 개발 및 디자인 개선의 필요성을 시사하고 있다. 생산업체 또한 새로운 디자인 적용에 의한 신제품개발에 관심이 높으며 전문기관의 디자인 지원을 가장 바라고있었다. 대발개발을 위한 실험조사 결과는 새로운 섬유재료, 천연염색, 현대적 디자인의 조합을 통해 오늘날의 소비자에 소구할 수 있는 제품개발 가능성을 발견하였다. 본 연구는 전통문화의 재창조를 위한 하나의 좋은 사례가 될 것으로 생각되며, 전문기관과 생산업체 간의 산학협동을 통해 전통문화의 제품화·상용화를 기할 수 있다는 점을 제안했다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제11권1호
• /
• pp.169-179
• /
• 2009

In order to preserve the Korean traditional gold foil, to develop as Korean traditional textile art by utilizing in modem fashion for textile industry, and to examine utility of the material which can be used in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion terms, Textiles Applied Korean Traditional Gold Foil were developed. The results are as follows: First, important factors of the gold foil image should be extracted as materials quality, color and pattern, and modem and practical qualities should be proceeded when developing the image of the gold foil into modem quality material. Second, since gloss of fabric developed by a traditional method is somewhat strong, uniformity being a little bit low for hand-made manufacturing, and practical quality is low for high cost, deletion of the gold foil, etc. So it hasn't been appropriate for studying modem fashion material. Third, Jacquard weave has been examined as the most appropriate method in order to present the gold foil image among a number of textile manufacturing techniques Fourth, considering factors deciding the image of the gold foil and a sense of beauty of modem society, gloss of the foil has been lessened by expressing pattern to lower traditional quality and primary color. Fifth, pattern motives of developed materials have been extracted tram traditional gold foil patterns, and materials have been chosen considering of concepts and motives, and dragon pattern, crane pattern and bat pattern, Sixth, wearing, pin-up works, bed linen, fabrics for chairs, ties, bags, shoes, umbrellas, etc. are produced with the developed materials, and practical use and modern quality have been examined. The result is very satisfactory.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제1권3호
• /
• pp.1-18
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제17권2호
• /
• pp.270-282
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study was to inquire into lounge wear and Jeff Koons and to design lounge wear in which the works, Balloon Dog(1994$\sim$2000) and Hanging Heart(1994$\sim$2006), of Jeff Koons was applied. The concept of design was appealed as sensuousness, activeness, and comfort. The target of design was teens and those in their 20s. Knit or woven fabric in 100% cotton/silk and cotton blended was selected. The design had fitted silhouette and the items were bras, panties, pajama pants, shorts, robes, slippers etc. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for the design. In the lounge wear in which Balloon Dog applied, main color was red, blue, and green with pale tone and frills and pleats were selected for the details. Elastic blended fabric was used for the comfortable. Variety application of color and patterns were conducted for rhythmical visual. In the lounge wear design in which Hanging Heart applied, main color was also red, blue, and green with pale tone. Halter neck and robes were selected for the sexy looking. Cool and soft feelings were pursued through use of cotton and silk blended fabrics or stripes patterns. The result of this study may give valuable information to merchandisers and designers who develop lounge wear. It may also provide designers who use computer program such as Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop as design tools with useful examples.