• Title/Summary/Keyword: expressive aesthetic

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A Study on the Characteristics of Knitwear Fashion Design: With a focus on Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, Azzedine Alaia

  • Chun, Hei Jung;Park, Jae Min
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.23-34
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer's style through their product's silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

A Study on the value and importance of Dancefilm: Focusing on the Wim Vandekeybus's Blush (댄스필름의 역사와 영상기법에 대한 연구 : 빔 반데키부스(Wim Vandekeybus)의 <블러쉬(Blush)>를 중심으로)

  • PARK, Youjung
    • Trans-
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    • v.1
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    • pp.45-66
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    • 2016
  • The study uses the image technique of the movie (analysis) since there are limited analyses and data of the dance film's (cinematic) grammar. The films are limited to the Wim Vandekeybus's Blush. From the analysis of the one film, films are directed using basic movie grammars. Although the films are of the same genre, it differs from the method of using image techniques as well as the director's personal art preference. The cinematic grammars enhance the effect of the movement and it emphasizes the objectives to deliver the audience true meaning of the films. Dance film is not a simple word combination of dance and film to record new type of art; dance is used for the movie's artistic and aesthetic enhancement. To find out dance is the language and important expressive tool of the dance film, at the same time cinematic grammar enhances effect of dance and objective of the film, the study uses image technique analysis. These are the results of dance film analysis by using image techniques. Firstly, Dance film can transcend time and space. Secondly, The creative director could emphasize some part that the audience should focus on to clearly deliver the intention of the choreographer. Lastly, To popularize the dance genre. If the dance film produces with more diversified stories than the resent, it will be a part of a cultural industry and could create profits. Dance film might lose the sense of realism, which is the main characteristic of the stage art; however it could feel the beauty of the film through the mise en scene.

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Deconstructionism in Issey Miyake's Fashion Design

  • Kwon, Hae-Sook
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.6
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    • pp.87-100
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    • 2007
  • This study aims at analyzing the characteristics of deconestructionism expressed in Issey Myake's fashion who is one of the most creative designers in the world. Method and contents of this study are as follows. Through the review of literatures, three major categories such as interminacy of meaning, decentring, and intertextuality and eight subcategories have been identified as major features of deconestructionism. These subcategories for content analysis were selected to examine the characteristics of deconstructionism expressed in Issey Myake's design in depth. Interminacy of meaning was divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors while decentring into qualities of cross-gender, subculture, anti-fashion, and post-humanism. Lastly, intertextuality was classified into factors of disordered mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from total 349 designs on the website,www.firstview.com, which carries Issey Miyake's collection from 2002 S/S through 2006 F/W. 2 fashion major analysts including the researcher participated in 1st analysis and two another fashion major analysts participated in 2nd analysis. The final level of consistency between analysts was over 97% for all categories. The data analysis quantitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and qualitatively evaluates the characteristics of design. The result is as follows. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, Miyake has introduced the various novelly textiles to fashion and employed the mixtured styles, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has used various fabrics in order to inflict shock and contrast but still create subtle harmony, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of Miyake's fashion design. Miyake has employed unconstructed expression techniques, which has projected unusual images free from basic forms of designs and also has used the unstructured styles which dismantle harmony and balance-the common rule of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. He has demonstrated a unique perspective on cloth construction and presented a love for artistic collaboration in the development of his collections A distinct manufactured aesthetic is exaggerated, even hyperbolic. Thirdly, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in Miyake's design, however, it has been visibly decreased after 2002 S/S.

A Study on the Mods-Look Expressed on the 21st Century Fashion (21세기 패션에 표현된 모즈 룩 연구)

  • Chu, Mi-Kyung;Kim, Soon-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.859-870
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the fashion reflecting the aesthetic consciousness of a generation and age spirit and to study Mods-Look aesthetically by analyzing how Mods-Look expressed on the fashion magazines(Collezioni Donna) from 2001 to 2006 developed into a new form. 1960's Mods-Look appeared in the well known collections such as New York, Paris, Milan in the form of crossover or with a changed style. Especially after 2000's, in addition to the British fashion, even a new word Mods Story was created to prominently express the free style of the Mods spirit. The expressive characteristics represent 1) minimal style, 2) sports casual style, 3) vintage style, 4) dandy & androgynous style. In conclusion, Mods-Look in 21st fashion used to be street fashion started from minority subculture after world war II, but now suit of that time, geometrical pattern and sensibility are becoming design sources for the various fashion market from high fashion to sports look. Therefore, as young people are becoming the center of society in new millenium, sensibility of that time will be reinterpreted to design and Mods-Look will not be limited to subculture but reflected in design development fulfilling people's taste and new future fashion sense by compromising the past and new trend.

A Study on the Visual Characteristics and The Principal of Formation of ChangSayng-Do in the Late Chosun Dynasty (조선 후기 장생도(長生圖)의 구성원리와 조형적 특성)

  • Kim Jun-Keun
    • Journal of Science of Art and Design
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    • v.8
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    • pp.63-94
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    • 2005
  • ChangSayng-Do in the late Chosun dynasty was a kind of traditional painting which sublimated the philosophy and emotion of everyday life into an aesthetic consciousness through a long history of Korean people . It would represent a human wish and desire to live a long and healthy life, which was implicated by way of Taoism. The major themes of ChangSayng-Do - mountains, the sun, cloud, water, rock, deer, tortoises, cranes, pine trees, bamboos, peaches, and herbs of eternal youth - were all symbols used. to wish for a long-life and immortality in real world. All or some of these items were represented in paintings, which resulted in the various kinds of ChangSayng-Do. The main concern of this thesis will be centered around the naturalistic subjects shown in ChangSayng-Do. This thesis consists of four chapters. The first chapter describes the purpose of and need for the research, and its method and scope. The second chapter deals with the origin and style of ChangSayng-Do, and the background of its formation. It is found out that the formative characteristic of ChangSayng-Do lies in the archetype, the unity of man and nature following the traditional view of nature. It is also found out that ChangSayng-Do implied the notions of Supernatural Being, Yin-Yang and Five Elements, Taoism, and Confucianism as well as Korean shamanism. Third chapter is largely about an analytic investigation into symbolic visualization of ChangSayng-Do. Firstly, the subject matters shown in ChangSayng-Do consist of items of wishful omen for long-life and good luck, and any motif in a picture implies a symbolism of eternal youth and long-life. Secondly, the view of colors shown in ChangSayng-Do is closely connected to Five Elements and Five Direction, a traditional oriental philosophy of universe, and these symbolic colors are based on shamanism and Yin/Yang-Five Elements. According to an iconological analysis, it is confirmed that these viewpoints are consistent with formative principles and expressive methods of ChangSayng-Do to some extent. The fourth chapter is one of the most important elements for visualization of ChangSayng-Do. The symbolic meaning of long life and good luck is the major source of its popularity inside the palace as well as among the people in general. The fact that ChangSayng-Do was used to ornament the palace was documented in $\lceil$UiGuey(documents about Chosun dynasty$\rfloor$. Also during the late period of Chosun dynasty, the appreciators of arts had begun to spread from high level class to lower level class, and many pictures represented in $\lceil$Hanyang-Ga$\rfloor$ were the ones produced and circulated for those increased consumers. As for the folk-artistic characteristics, the anonymity and arbitrary naturalness of ChangSayng-Do demonstrates that the folk-artistic elements were fully soaked into the life styles of people in general. ChangSayng-Do further shows that a human being is located in the center of the universe, and that all the natural phenomena and ecology are observed to happen around human beings, and that the results of those happenings are connected to man's course of life. It is discovered that the subject matters of ChangSayng-Do in the late Chosun dynasty imply another idea inside metaphors and symbols. With regard to the arrangement of time and space, the unity or oneness of oneself with the world is more highly regarded than one's individual subjectivity: there exist multiple times and spaces in a single picture This reveals a wholistic view of oneness which does not permit the division between phenomenon and substance. To conclude, this thesis inquired into ChangSayng-Do in the late Chosun dynasty focusing on the expression of archetype-symbols. And through the analysis and demonstration, this thesis re-established constructional principles and formative characteristics of ChangSayng-Do and then settled a new phase of ChangSayng-Do, with a deep under-standing of fundamental thoughts of Korean people underlying ChangSayng-Do.

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The post-epic characteristics in Jan Lauwers' theatre -, and - (얀 라우어스(Jan Lauwers) 공연의 탈서사적 특징들 -<이사벨라의 방(Isabella's Room)>, <랍스터 가게(The Lobster Shop)>, <사슴의 집(Deer House)>을 중심으로-)

  • Nam, Jisoo
    • Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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    • no.48
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    • pp.447-484
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    • 2012
  • This study aims to analyze the characteristics of post-epic theatre in the Belgian theatre director Jan Lauwers' trilogy titled in "Happy Face/Sad Face": (2004), (2006) and (2008). I regard that it played a very important junction for him to create his own theatrical style compared to earlier years. From this period, Lauwers has tried to create his original plays in order to concentrate the story of our era and has showed to combine a variety of media such as dance, installation, video, singing etc. In this context, I would like to study his own theatricality from the three perspectives of dramaturgy, directing and acting largely based on Hans-Thies Lehmann's theory of post-epic theatre, who pointed out the significance of Lauwer's theatrical leading role very early. First, from the dramaturgical point of view, we need to pay attention to the theme of translunary death; where the living and the dead coexist on the stage. In fact, death is the theme that Lauwers has been struggling to research for quite long time. In his trilogy, the dead never exits the stage. The dead, who is not a representative tragic character, even meddles the things among or with the living and provide comments to people. As a consequence, it happens to reduce a dramaturgical strong tension, leads depreciation of suspense and produces humanism in a way. This approach helps to create his unique comical theatrical atmosphere even though he deals with the contemporary tragic issues such as war, horror and death. Second, from the directing point of view, it is worth to take a look at the polyphonic strategy in terms to applying various media. Among all the things, the arts of dancing and singing in chorus are actively applied in Lauwer's trilogy. The dance is used in individual and microscopic way, on the other hand, singing shows collective and is a macroscopic quality. The dance is the representing media to show Lauwer's simultaneous microscopic mise-en-scene. While main plot takes place around the center-stage, actors perform a dance around the off-centered stage. Instead of exiting from the stage during the performance, the actors would continue dance -sometimes more like movements- around the off-centered stage. This not only describes the narrative, but also shows how each character is engaged to the main plot or incident, and how they look into it as a character. Its simultaneous microscopic mise-en-scene intends to function such as: showing a variety moments of lives, amplifying some moments or incidents, revealing character's emotion, creating illusionary theatrical atmosphere and so on. Meanwhile, singing simple lyrics and tunes are an example of the media to stimulate the audiences' catharsis. As the simple melody lingers in the audiences' mind, it ends up delivering a theatrical message or theme after the performance. This message would be transferred from the singing in chorus functions as a sort of leitmotive in order to make an impression to the audience. This not only richens their emotion but also creates an illusionary effect. Third, from the acting perspective, I'd like to point out the "detachment" aesthetic which Lehmann has pointed out. The actors never go deep into the drama by consistently doing recognize a theatrical illusion. The audience happens to pay attention to their presence through the actor's deliberate gesture, business, movement, rhythm, language, dance etc. The actors are against forming closed action by speaking in various languages or by revealing deliberately stage directions or acts, and by creating expressive mise-en-scene with multiple media. As a consequent, the stage can be transformed to not a metaphoric but a metonymic place. These actions are the ultimate intention for a direct effect to the audience. So to speak, Lauwers uses the anti-illusionary theatrical method: the scenes of fantastic death, interruption of singing and dance, speaking many kinds of languages, acting in detachment-status and so on. These strategies function to make cracks in spectators' desire who has a desire to construct a linear narrative. I'd like to say that it is the numerous potentiality to let the reality penetrate though and collide the reality with a fiction. By doing so, it induces for spectators to see the reality in the fiction. As Lehmann says, "when theatre presents itself as a sketch and not as a finished painting, the spectators are given the chance to feel their own presence, to reflect on it, and to contribute to the unfinished character themselves". In this sense the spectators can perform an objective criticism on our society and world in Lauwer's theatre because there are a number of gaps and cracks in his theatrical illusion where reality can penetrate. This is also the point that we can find out the artists' responsibility in this era of our being.