• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.188-208
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• 2013

This study aims to find out factors of historical specialty and cultural ethnicity that influenced the formation of Spanish fashion as well as examine the characteristics of Spanish fashion by comparing its historical costumes, such as folk costume and court costume with contemporary fashion of major Spanish designers in the 20th century. Documental investigation and analysis of visual materials were used as research method. The study results are as follows: The major factors that affected the characteristics of Spanish fashion in the history include the geographical features, invasion of foreign nations, cultural heritage of various ethnic groups, strengthening of the national power, advancement of international trading through the newly developed routes, and influence of religions such as Christianity, Islam, and Judaism. Featuring the coexistence of variety and heterogeneity, the ethnicity reflected in the culture harmoniously embraces various spirits such as conflict and coexistence, individualism and collectivism or regionalism, and exclusion and tolerance of religions. In addition, the characteristics in the cultural phenomena include passion, sensuousness, individualism, sense of reality, sense of chic, and the people-centeredness. The basic Characteristics of Spanish fashion include the sensuality of excessive zeal, decorativeness of gorgeous handicrafts, exoticism of people-centered variety, extreme contrast of harmony, touching artistry of chic, and fantastic surrealistic wits.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.22
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• pp.223-252
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• 2011

If we remember that modern world history has built systems of meaning through the concepts "difference," "different," and "other-ness" and has constructed new identity based on opposing hierarchy, music anthropology which tried to build "difference" between the west and the non-west was thoroughly west -centered, in the sense that it has perceived the heterogeneous symbolic systems among nations, as well as the barrier between the two cultures. On the other hand, world music, which has emerged as the most attractive field in culture industry and concert-art-market by crossing over global capitals, markets, and barriers, can be considered the most post-modernist and glocal. However, it is interesting to note that world music, which has been described as post-modern and glocal, has "difference" and "different" in its basis, just like the precepts for modern music anthropology (Meintjes 1990; Guilbault 1993; Taylor 1997; Frith 2000; Feld 1988). Furthermore, one can understand that the "different" and "difference," generally termed as being "non-western," are fundamentally based on ethnic or national imagination. In this sense it is interesting and important to examine such ethnic imagination in the "non-western ethnic musics" in music anthropology and in world music. Notwithstanding the attention paid and research made by music anthropologists, they have failed to elevate the "non-western ethnic musics" to become universally communicative, and these ethnic musics were reborn as "global" and "world music," through the process of "acculturation," "derivation," and "hybridization," with the west as major site for production and consumption. Meanwhile, the audience for world music, which did not exist before the birth of world music as a term, was now born as world music emerged. They are global populace who consume the musical "difference" and "imagined ethnicity," who through their consumption are constructing new social meanings including ethnicity, race, nation, and class identity. This study, by examining current discourse, performance, and process for the world music through media and field studies and scholarly debates, attempts to understand the production and consumption of "imagined ethnicity." This will also shed light on how "ethnicity" is created and consumed, and how this is involved in the process of world music.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.149-167
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• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.59-71
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was 1) to analyze the consumers' preference on the recent trend in men's wear according to their lifestyle and 2) to suggest a suitable direction for men's wear planning based on the lifestyle analysis. A survey was applied to obtain the data set responded from 310 male subjects who were aged between thirties and fourties. The main results of this study are summarized as follows: 1) Five types of recent fashion trends were identified through a qualitative analysis on the recent men's wear trend, which were 'Modern classic casual', 'Retro traditional casual', 'Authentic/Ethnic casual', 'Urban dandy street casual' and the 'Refined sportive casual'. 2) The three types of the respondents' lifestyle were identified in this research and named as 'pursuing sense', 'pursuing tradition' and 'conservative indifference'. Examining the preference on fashion trends according to subjects' lifestyle and etc., the preference level of the 'pursuing sense' group on trend was, in general, higher than that of the two other lifestyle groups. The most preferred trend style of 'pursuing sense' group was the 'Modern Classic'. Finally, a suitable direction for men's wear planning was suggested on the result of analysis in this research.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.115-129
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to discover the techniques and the trends of expression of modern knitwears focusing on the 1990's after. The resorts of this study is as follows: The techniques of expression of knitwears are classified by the sections on the techniques and the styles of expression. The divisions into the techniques are knitting, crochet, macrame, netting, knotting. And the divisions into upon the styles of expressions are color, pattern, texture, relief and seeing through The techniques of expression on the modern knitwears are expressed characteristic of variety and composition, are expended to the art wear by translated into art. According to a wide sense, ecology, ethnic, modern are the themes of knitwears of 1990's after. The characteristic technique of expression according to the themes are expressed by the harmony of image, yarn, color, silhouette, techniques of expression. The modern knitwears are tried by mixed and various techniques, developed to the area of art wear, escaping from simple and practical item.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.47-59
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to grasp the meaning of retro-fashion, to research the formative feature characteristic and aesthetic values. Retro-fashion is one of the expression of spatiotemporal-eclecticism, The formative of modern Retro-fashion are as follows: First, Retro-fashion based on spatiotemporal-eclecticism have been come from 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s style of time, and the asia, africa, middle east, latin America in region. Second, the design inspiration and technique is used more primitive crafts and decoration like handcrafted material, handmade ornaments as dyeing and embroidery of bohemian, jacqwuard pattern, oriental beads, applique, new hippie touch, patchwork, smocking, primitive button, woods, ethnic motives. Third, modern Retro-fashion is reflection of human feelings as nostalgia from the past, it supplies the sense of fashion creativity and new ideas.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.117-125
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• 2003

Aesthetics of ugliness enlarged aesthetic field and brought back the repressed, estranged things. Hair style is not an exception. So I intended to examine the contemporary(1995-2002) women's hair styles on the basis of Rosenkranz' concept of ugliness. The results are as follows: First, extrinsic aspect contains formlessness and disfiguration. Among characteristics of formlessness, discord means appearing on a stage with a hair style derailed from our common sense or an incomplete hair style. Asymmetry means hair decoration or hair dressing which violates the principles of design. Disharmony means excessiveness beyond the concept of accent. Disfiguration has characteristics of vulgarity, disgust and caricature, and means cruelty, grimness or ridiculousness instead of pleasing beauty. Second, intrinsic aspect has incorrectness. As minority ethnic groups, estranged classes, children and women which in the previous field of absolute aesthetics were never considered as beauty appeared as subject matters of hair styles, the repressed things returned and a new genre was created thereby enlarging true aesthetic field. Like this, 1 cloud confirm that aesthetics of ugliness organized today's characteristic, peculiar hair styles, and enlarged aesthetic field.

• Korean Journal of Child Studies
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.115-136
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• 2007

In South Korea, some interethnic families result from prearranged marriages where 1 spouse is an immigrant. In this study, traits of children in families of interethnic immigrant marriages were studied by individual interviews of ten kindergarten teachers responsible for them and 8 observations of their preschool classes. Subjects were 21(13 male, 8 female) 3- to 5-year-old children. Results showed the diverse traits of these children : they adapted to the environment by changing and getting along, but some of them exhibited problematic behavior such as delayed language development, confused identity, and aggression. The attitude of their peers included passive reaction, discord and receptivity regarding their difference. The attitude of the teachers was a sense of responsibility and worry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.43-49
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• 2001

Galliano's works showed at Dior Collection in 1997 which was held for the 50th anniversary of New Look got a good evaluation in the sense of expressing the modern taste as well as reflecting the spirit of Dior. The purpose of this study is focused on observing how to adapt the Dior's spirit. to Galliano's own design and what is the factor to let us feel his works modern. Galliano's fifty works in that Collection are analyzed by content analysis. The result is as followed : Galliano created his fabulous and modern works by four ways such as using various ethnic details, new way of fabric usage, new construction. and differentiated color harmony from Dior's. This result also includes the methodological model to adapt to design process.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.5-30
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to observe artistic of Expressionism reflected to works of European costume designers by analizing works of seven major representative costume designers in the twentieth century. They are Mariano Fortuny, Paul poiret, Madelene Vionnet, Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed individual and various creative costume design work with peculiar expresive techniques, which is based on the Expressionism. Although each creative work was made in extremely unique sense, there was comon expressive spirituality I their creative activity. The findings are as follows : 1. Based on the "Medieval-directed characteristic" which arose over all fields of art of those days, a modern and reformative clothing beauty was created by reanalyzing traditional motive. 2 Characteristic of Cubistic Expressionism were described in overall silhouette of clothing and fine decorative element. 3. Fantastic Expressionism, which pursued basic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs, effected costume style of early 20th century and draw such designers as Mariano Fortuny, Leon Bakst, Paul Poiet, Elsa Schiaqarelli to adopt intensive and primary color. And it also gave an impact against traditional concepts by accepting fantastic oriental Exoticism.Exoticism.