The concept of the "diaspora" has established itself as one of the major topics in literary and cultural studies in the first two decades of the twenty-first century. Contemporary studies on this topic tend to regard is diaspora as either as a liberatory space unmoored from a repressive national identity-formation or as a condition pregnant with challenges to the authority of a nation-state or nationalism. Viewed from within the social realities of multi-ethnic nations, however, diaspora has an alternative, darker face. For, reproduced within the concept itself, is that of a hierarchy: this hierarchy is one in which a dominant group seeks to repress the same ethnic members for their failure to conform. What is more, the cultural difference, which diaspora is believed to preserve, lends the dominant group an excuse to re-ethnicize its immigrants, subsuming them under the same extra-national category as that of the people or homeland they have left behind. By analyzing a range of historical and theoretical models, this study offers itself as an attempt to clarify the current, and often confusing, understandings of the condition of diaspora. By delving into its political potentials and discussing their possible socio-political ramifications, the study suggests that researchers of diaspora need to anchor themselves in historicity lest they end up "speaking for" their chosen subjects.
Modernization of cities and housing in Malaysia is a reflection of the history of the establishment of colonial trading ports for worldwide maritime trade and exchange. In cosmopolitan cities, new housing typology appeared from the influence of various ethnic immigrants and with the fusion of traditional Malay housing characteristics. This study is to focus on classifying the housing typologies of Malaysia which were formed through the modernization process of cities. The typologies of modern housing in Malaysia can be classified into two categories. The first category is the 'transformation of traditional housing'. The representative typology of this group is the ubiquitous shophouse. The shophouse was originally brought in by the Chinese immigrants from the south coast of China and transformed into the Malaysian urbanscape. The other typology is a detached-house known as the bungalo, which was the housing style combining the Malay traditional timber house and European palazzo. The second category is the 'modern urban housing typology'. Modern urbanization after the independence from the British in 1957 required the maximum utilization of land. To accommodate new social and economic needs, the new typologies were developed in the form of medium-density terrace houses (row houses) and high-density apartment. In the suburban areas, the British terrace house was adopted and developed into unique Malaysian terrace house and semi-detached house based on the British system of land sub division. In premium area of the city, luxurious housing type in the form of high-end condominium is one of the popular housing for upper middle-class and high-class society.
Aleksey L. Kim;Hyeon Jin Jeong;Ju Eun Jang;Hyeok Jae Choi;Chang-Gee Jang;Hee-Young Gil
Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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2022.09a
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pp.48-48
/
2022
Ethnobotany is an interdisciplinary science at the intersection of botany and ethnology. Currently, there is a sharply increasing need for the study and conservation of traditional knowledge about plants. The loss of traditional sources, knowledge, and practices in using plants is caused by the growth of technologies in all branches of production, widespread urbanization, and globalization of the economy. This study was been conducted to collect and analyze the Koryoins (Koryo saram) traditional ethnobotanical knowledge, living in Uzbekistan, whose number 174,200 people. They are the descendants of Korean immigrants to the Russian Far East, who ended up in Central Asia as a result of the forced resettlement in 1937. In the processing of collected data, four main categories of uses were defined - Alimentary, Medicinal, Household/Handicraft, and Others. For quantitative data analysis, synthetic indices were used - RFC (Relative Frequency of Citation) and CI (Cultural Importance Index), which are commonly applied to assess the importance of plants. The respondents mentioned 72 plants belonging to 28 botanical families. A significant part of them was cultivar plants. The category that had the largest number of plants mentioned by the respondents was the Alimentary use category (51). According to quantitative indices rates, the most important plants are traditionally used for food. A comparison of ethnobotanical knowledge was made with the collected data of this study and Korean traditional knowledge.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.27
no.3_4
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pp.298-309
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2003
This paper was done to identify the types and the characteristics of street fashion of men living in world fashion-leading cities. 608 male photos taken on the main streets of 4 world fashion-leading cities such as London, New York, Paris, Tokyo were used as data. Photos were viewed by students and classified according to overall images and the common aspects of characteristic style. Fashion images of male were classified into 11 groups, which were suits, casual, hip-hop, rockers/punks, hippies, ethnic, western, military, new romantic, skirt, androgynous. Frequency distribution showed that casual image was mostly preferred and 1311owe4 by suit, rocker/punks. Military and hippies were least favored. In each category, almost every style looked unique and creative as a result of mixing and cross-coordination of different clothing items.
A cross-sectional survey was used to investigate the rates of overweight and obesity (BMI$\geq$25), and eating attitudes among college students. Data were collected at a large southeastern university. Adolescents (ages 18-25) self-reported weight and height (to calculate BMI), and, in addition to demographic information, completed the eating attitudes (EAT 26) scale to assess dieting tendencies. Significance of the mean BMI differences between gender and ethnic background were assessed by one-way analysis of variance (one-way ANOVA). Chi-square was used to determine whether the rate of those with BMI$\geq$25 between gender and ethnic background was statistically significant. While 52.7% of the students' BMI were within the normal weight category, 15.2% were underweight, 21.3% were overweight, and 10.8% were obese. The rate of BMI$\geq$25 differed by gender and ethnicity, with males and African Americans having higher rates. About 12 % of the participants reported disturbed eating behavior, which is lower than previously reported. Even so, results support the generally held belief that disturbed eating attitudes and unhealthy dieting are common among college students, especially among females. At the same time, disturbed eating attitudes are not just the domain of young female students; about 10% of college males reported disturbed eating attitudes. Findings of this study call for obesity prevention/intervention and lifestyle modification outreach programs among college students. Weight status and unhealthy eating behaviors of college. students should be a concern to health care professionals. While obese young adults will likely remain obese throughout their adult life, excessive dieting among students, which is linked to eating disorders and other health hazards, does not provide healthy and adequate alternatives for maintaining a normal BMI. Implications for obesity prevention programs are discussed.
The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.
The purpose of this study was to use the Kano model to compare and analyze the educational service quality attributes of domestic and foreign culinary arts schools. For this purpose, a questionnaire-based survey was completed by 312 students who were studying in domestic and foreign culinary schools. The results of the study indicated that 23 of the total 25 attributes were significantly different between domestic and foreign culinary arts school.; the "minium 4 hour-kitchen class" and "mandatory internship program" were classified into "indifferent quality" for domestic schools and a "must-be quality" for foreign schools; "well-organized internship guidebook", "kitchen class limited to 20 students", "introducing the latest food or restaurant trends", "library with the latest publications related to major", "objective instructor's evaluation", "detailed instructor's evaluation", "instructor's field experience", and "decent communication skills on the part of the instructor" attributes were classified into "attractive quality" for domestic schools and "must-be quality" for foreign schools; and "kitchen classes operated by block system", and "foreign instructors for each ethnic cuisine" attributes were classified into "indifferent" and "attractive quality" for both domestic and foreign schools, respectively. Also, according to the Better and Worse quotient designed by Timko, there were more attributes for domestic school than for foreign school that scored over 0.5 in the Better category and fewer attributes for domestic than the foreign scored over 0.5 in the Worse category. The results also indicate that, students in foreign schools receive an educational service of better quality than students in a domestic school. As a result, this research suggests significant implications to develop culinary educational services.
This paper investigates the differences between characteristics of street fashions due to regional and cultural differences in southern and northern region of China. Beijing and Shenzhen were chosen as representative cities for the two areas. Empirical research and literature study were performed for this study. Empirical studies were performed by using a total of 708 images of dresses, which were collected through direct imaging. Through discussion with experts, the collected data were classified into five categories; Modern trendy, Romantic, Easy casual, Ethnic, and Classical/Traditional. The data was analyzed by using cross tabulation and frequency analysis. Content analysis for each category was also conducted. As a consequence of this study, a significant difference between Beijing and Shenzhen were observed. As a city, which puts emphasis on practicality and modernity, Beijing showed a higher frequency of modern and trendy style than the other city. On the other hand, Shenzhen showed a higher frequency of romantic style and was distinguished as a city of femininity and decorative preference of fashion style. This study intends to contribute to the academic community of Chinese fashion and to help Korean clothing companies to be launched in Chinese market in the future.
This paper analyzes the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy to each other. Based on the chronological analysis, we propose a new category for the fashion and make-up trend in 1990s, which is 1) traditional ecology period(1990∼1994), 2) versatile trial or decadent period(1995∼1997), and 3) soft landing period based on the minimal neo-ecology and romanticism(1998∼2000). Between 1990 and 1994, there was no differentiation in seasons. It appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend have had no big differences. At the beginning in 1990s, it was basically based on ecology concept that emphasizes the natural image. However after 1995, seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. The trends of spring/summer in 1996 could be named as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel, and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. In 1998, pastel tone, pink, and purple color expresses the glamorous look based on the romantic feminism. S/S of 1999 is mainly represented by minimalism and avant garde. For fall/winter trends, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors in 1995 and 1996. These colors were the symbol of property and sentiment. Gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image. At that time, ethnic and romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet. In 1998, romanticism was popular again with modernism and ethnic mood. It expressed the romantic elegant image. The trend has returned to the ecology mood again in 1999. This ecology is somewhat different from the previous ecology. It adds a sofistaiced feeling and sportic fashion. To express natural and sportic image, they choose pink blush. In coming 2000 as a new millennium, the yellow color will be main the stream to express vision, dream, and happiness in both fashion and make-up as an accent color. The minimal design and minimal tools will be used for the design and make-up, respectively. In addition, the fusion concept will dominate the fashion and make-up industry in the globalized and boundariless age. Through this paper, we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people and industry.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.19
no.2
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pp.63-78
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2017
The purposes of this study was to study Turkic clothing traditions as a way to shed light on cultural development via the interactions among different tribes along the Silk Road, the close correlations between the surroundings of the Turks and their costumes, and the root of Turkic culture through literature studies and empirical studies. The study results are as follows. First, the Turks were nomadic equestrian tribes in the north that dominated the cold dry steppes from the $6^{th}$ to $8^{th}$ century A.D., when they expanded their influence to Dongbei, China to the east, and Turkistan (Central Asia) to the west. The Turks formed a nomadic lifestyle and culture suited to a cold dry climate, and interacted with various other tribes via the Silk Road, while exchanging and sharing different cultural aspects. Second, given that the Turkic garments constitute a two-piece style, which is a category of the basic nomadic costume of northern tribes, and that the artifact materials manifest jackets, overcoats, pants and skirts, the garments are categorized into tops and bottoms. The tops are sub-categorized into jackets and overcoats. The bottoms are sub-categorized into pants and skirts. In light of the necklines of tops, jackets have round necklines, while overcoats have V-necklines, round necklines and lapel collars. The bottoms include narrow-legged pants, wide-legged pants and closed-hem pants. Drapery skirts are worn at the waist. Third, the Turkic V-neckline overcoat is comparable to the Huns' silk overcoat, which illustrates the ethnic link between the two tribes. Also, the Turkic narrow- and wide-legged pants are consistent with the Huns' silk pants discovered in Noin Ula. The Turkic costumes are mostly tight fitting, suitable for the nomadic lifestyle in a cold, dry climate. Also, additional patches must be attached to the crotch points of pants due to the equestrian lifestyle.
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