• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권8호
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• pp.1216-1227
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• 2002

The objective in the part H of this study was to investigate the effects of materials, sleeves, trimming, and perceivers gender on impression formation. Stimuli consisted of 13 color photographs of a female model wearing a wedding dress which were manipulated according to clothing cues. A semantic differential sale of 4 dimensions was used. These were attractiveness, neatness, femininity, and prettiness. Samples were 312 males and females. For the effect of sleeves, there were significant main effects in attractiveness, femininity, neatness, and prettiness. Three-quarters lace ruffled sleeves increased the perception of positive attractiveness, femininity, and prettiness. Flounced sleeves had a positive effect on the perception of neatness. Long-tight sleeves had a negative effect on the perception of attractiveness, femininity, and prettiness. Sleeveless dresses increased the perception of negative neatness. There was an interaction effect between sleeves and the perceivers gender on neatness. For the onぉ of material, there were significant main effects in neatness, femininity, and prettiness. Solid cloth had a positive effect on the perception of neatness and negatively on prettiness. The combination of lace and solid cloth increased the perception of positive femininity and prettiness. lace had a negative effect on the perception of neatness. Satin increased the perception of negative femininity. There was an interaction effect between material and perceivers gender on prettiness. The main effect of trimmings was its effect on prettiness. Ribbons increased the perception of positive prettiness. Not having any trimmings had a negative effect on the perception of prettiness. There was an interaction effect between timings and the perceivers gender on neatness. The results of this study confirm that image perception of wedding dresses becomes different according to the materials, details, and perceiver's gender.

• 복식
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• 제51권6호
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.430-448
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• 2011

This study analyzes the stereotyped femininity with a focus on body codes, which has been continuously expressed in fashion illustrations from the late $19^{th}$ century to the year 2010, and examines the changes in its meaning. Stereotyped femininity was reorganized by the changes in female sex role effected by social changes, as well as by the body discourse and feminism in the late $20^{th}$ century, These socio-cultural backgrounds led to the change in the meaning of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. The stereotyped women in fashion illustrations are characterized by gender-oriented body, and the typical image of women was reproduced with the marks of poses and looks that feature passiveness and subordination. Then, the gender-oriented body since 1990's shifted to active meaning that positively revealed sexual desire. The space positioned by women is also the symbol of gender. In line with changes over time, the backgrounds in fashion illustrations have changed from private space such as home and nature to public space such as city, which reflects diversification and expansion of space for women. This study has identified the changes in meaning, based on the analysis of the characteristics of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. Above all, women who were objectified as a subject by dominant discourse have established the concept of active body as an entity. In addition, the symbol of typical femininity is "slim" and "beauty", which reflects the change from the emphasis on childbirth-related femininity to self-control and conquer. On the other hand, the typical features expressed through body have reproduced dichotomous structure, but the emergence of body and background deviated from gender has reorganized the symbolic order of gender.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.318-328
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• 2005

Our interest in human body is more and more increasing. Not only academic and art communities but also other social communities show a keen interest in the human body. Especially, the breast of women's body parts may be comparable to men's penis because it is protruded. The breast which sexually distinguishes women from men becomes an important topic in the fashion design community. Therefore, such designs which emphasize the breast are being introduced in a natural way. This paper aims at examining the reason and symbolism for the exposure of breast and analyzing the fashion design that breast is exposed. This study will help us grasp the meaning which the design has. The exposure's scope of breast in the design includes the partial exposure, total exposure and the concealment of breast. But these all have their effects in each scope. For this paper, some general things were investigated. They are as follows: the phases of breast exposure in the fashion design, the exposure of breast expressed in the works of fine art, and the alteration of breast-exposing phenomenon shown in apparels. Then, each type of breast-exposing design shown in the women's fashion was analyzed from the middle of 1980s' when the phenomenon of breast exposure occurred to the year 2004. These could be divided into 4 types. They include a suggestive type, an exaggerative type, an open type and a reproductive type. As the result of analysis of 4 types, such meanings of design as an emphasis of femininity, an expression of liberty, a symbol of maternity and a commercialization of sex could be analogized.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.47-60
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• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modern fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Gilles Deleuze. A new framework for analyzing the changes of dress style based upon the 'Difference' theory derived from Deleuze's theory and from his interpretations of paintings was developed. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are deformation and hybridization. They are derived from the Deleuze's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Bacon. The aesthetic values of the Romantic style in the 19th century dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. And the formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to deformation and hybridization and the results are as follows: first, deformation caused by exaggeration or emphasis in the modern Romantic fashion creates changeability of the form, destruction of the 19th century style, volume, and ornamentation. Second, hybridization by combining heterogeneous characteristic between times and genders (for example, the 19th century and modern times or masculinity and femininity) frees body from the dress and changes the dress silhouettes and ornamentation. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modern fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modern society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology. It can be said that this is an example of the Deleuze's 'becoming' theory.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.724-735
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• 2000

The objectives of this study were to identify the dimensional structure of female impression formation based on silhouettes and necklines of wedding dresses, and to analyze the effect of silhouettes, necklines, and perceiver's gender on impression formation. The experimental design was 3$\times$6$\times$2 (silhouettes$\times$necklines$\times$gender) factorial design by 3 independent variables. Samples were 432 males and females. Four factors derived to account for the dimensions of impression formation. These were attractiveness, neatness, feminity, and prettiness. Dome silhouette had a positive effect on impression of attractiveness. Bell silhouette increased the impression of femininity and prettiness. Tubular silhouette had a negative effect on the impressions of attractiveness, femininity, and prettiness. Neckline had a significant effect on impression of attractiveness and negative on prettiness. Sweet-heart neckline has a positive effect on impression of attractiveness and negative on prettiness. Off-shoulder neckline increased the impression of prettiness. Round neckline decreased the impression of attractiveness. On the interaction effect according to the neckline and perceiver's gender, the men perceived high-necklines to be more feminine than did women, while the women perceived off-shoulder necklines to be more feminine than did men. There was interaction effect between silhouette and neckline on prettiness. In dome silhouette, heart-shape neckline was perceived to be prettier than the others, while in bell silhouette, off-shoulder neckline was perceived as prettier than the others.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.661-673
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• 2011

This study aimed to identify the intrinsic characteristics of camouflage patterns by reviewing their origin, transitions and types from a theoretical background and analyzing their forms of expression in contemporary fashion. For a literature review and an empirical analysis of the camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion, the study referred to domestic and foreign fashion magazines published between 2000 S/S and 2010 S/S, including Gap Press, Fashion News, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and other related data available on the internet. The findings of this study show that the forms of camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion can be divided into four types: abstract patterns, plant patterns of flowers or leaves, animal patterns and dotted patterns. In terms of coloration, the camouflage patterns work to refresh the design, breaking from the image of military uniforms through the use of a wide range of color variation and combinations as well as the traditional camouflage colors based on khaki and beige. In terms of expression, most of them utilize printing. However, other techniques of expression, such as embroidery, beading, knitting, and collages are used to emphasize the beauty of handcrafted decorations along with the aesthetic value of reliefs. Through these tendencies of expression, the characteristics of contemporary fashion using camouflage are explained with an emphasis on feminine beauty, the expression of neutrality, and the use as decorative factors.

• 복식
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• 제60권8호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2010

This study is a discussion of the expressive characteristics of contemporary fashion design with floral images. It aims to help understand the overall trends of contemporary fashion design and textile motif design and expand the potential expression fields of originative design to natural objects such as flowers. Methodologically the study analyzed 976 pieces of data gathered from Haute Couture and Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-Porter collections of 2005S/S-2009F/W, according to their types of expression. The study results show a share of 42.7% for plane type expressions by printing or weaving and a share of 51.5% for relief type expressions, compared with 5.7% for solid type expressions. However, those expressions represented elegant femininity with emphasis on formative beauty and were applied to fashion accessories or hair adornments. The expressive characteristics found from the analysis were represented by natural images, feminine elegance, and decorative aesthetics of handicrafts. Flowers in the contemporary fashion purify the internal emotions of humankind stand for personality and beauty in many different ways of expression and serve as a means of expressing more artistic values breaking out of stereotype.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.161-175
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• 2014

This paper investigates the differences between characteristics of street fashions due to regional and cultural differences in southern and northern region of China. Beijing and Shenzhen were chosen as representative cities for the two areas. Empirical research and literature study were performed for this study. Empirical studies were performed by using a total of 708 images of dresses, which were collected through direct imaging. Through discussion with experts, the collected data were classified into five categories; Modern trendy, Romantic, Easy casual, Ethnic, and Classical/Traditional. The data was analyzed by using cross tabulation and frequency analysis. Content analysis for each category was also conducted. As a consequence of this study, a significant difference between Beijing and Shenzhen were observed. As a city, which puts emphasis on practicality and modernity, Beijing showed a higher frequency of modern and trendy style than the other city. On the other hand, Shenzhen showed a higher frequency of romantic style and was distinguished as a city of femininity and decorative preference of fashion style. This study intends to contribute to the academic community of Chinese fashion and to help Korean clothing companies to be launched in Chinese market in the future.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.39-49
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• 1982

This treatise deals with teen-agers' tendencies in selecting clothes, upon the recent liberalization measures of dress restriction. in regard to girl students' uniforms inmiddle and high schools, effective 1983. Results of my poll of 430 inquirees on the subject is outlined as follows; The surveyees have a preference for wearing box-style upper garments with a round-neck line and ribbon/tie collar. They also prefer to wear shirt cuffs mainly in set-in sleeve style. A straight skirt silhouetting the body line is anticipated to be longer in length than the knee line by 2 or 3 cm's. A dressy or sporty look would be most welcome, too. The ensemble of blue jeans and T-shirt blouse would be usual wear during school attendance. The reason why they like to choose trousers is considered to stem from the unisex look in fashion rather economical and practical purposes. Clothes material tends to be natural fabrics, single-colored and non-patterned. Color needs to be in a subdued mood, tuned with the same color and of neutral tint. In styling, emphasis is to be placed on femininity. In particular, the middle school girls wish to intensify 'Har-mony' in style while the high school misses are concerned with 'Individuality.'