• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to study the cause of obstruction in various knit pattern structures by understanding the needs of the customers, and to develop knitted fabric goods that satisfy the individual taste of consumers and that reflecting the latest fashions. Actual conditions of the manufacturer's designing processes must be examined. In addition, a comparison analysis of fashion sensibilities and preferences between producers and consumers had been made in order to study developing knit pattern structures. Questionnaires and interviews had been used as research methods. The research involved two groups: one group consisted of 57 producers, which included designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, while the other group consisted of 74 consumers, which included students with knitted fabric design as their major and those who have working knowledge of knitted fabrics. For a more accurate evaluation, 28 out of 150 patterns have been selected through a preliminary study conducted by 24 designers. On the 28 knit patterns, a sensibility evaluation had been made through the use of the sense of sight and sense of touch, which was followed by a frequency analysis, cluster analysis, and t-test using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: the fashion sensibility evaluation on knit patterns showed that structures, such as racking II or lace II, are typically elegant ('elegance'), while structures, such as links I or racking I, are typically 'active.' Furthermore, a 'country' image was displayed in structures such as cable I, cable II, and miss II. Links I appeared as 'sophisticated'. Miss I and milano were said to have 'modem' images. Lace II was regarded as 'ethnic', while racking II was said to have a 'romantic' image. 2:1 rib and milano were generally thought to be manly ('manish'). The fashion sensibility scale for each knit pattern has been made based on the above results. Based on producer and consumer responses, the sensibility evaluation on knit pattern structures showed that the two groups had similar preferences in knit pattern structures. Therefore, the fashion sensibility scale developed in this study can be used as a basic data for structure development when designing knitted fabric goods.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Telematics and Electronics D
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• v.36D no.8
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• pp.7-18
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• 1999

We have designed and tuilt the quasioptical system for the dual channel receiver which is used for the simultaneous observation of the cosmic radio with 100GHz band and 150GHz band. The quasioptical system has been widely used to guide the beam for the millimeter and submillimeter waves. A Gaussian distribution of field and power transverse to their axis of propagation allow the simple and elegant theory of Gaussian quasioptics. Using the theory of Gaussian beam, we introduced the analysis of image beam which is applied for a wide range of frequency. In order to guide two beams from the Cassegrain antenna simultaneously, the quasioptical system and its components for the dual channel receiver were designed by using the image beam method. We have checked the characteristics of the quasioptical components and the system by using the heam measurement system, which is made by us. The quasioptical system has been installed in the dual channel receiver on the Cassegrain antenna. The performance of this system has been finally confimed through the successful simultaneous observation with two bands of the cosmic radio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.291-306
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• 1992

From the mid-1980s '91s, remarkable Ethnicism and Primitivism in the Europe fashion trend could be represented as an exotic taste longing for secenery and emotion of non-europe area in the West. These phenomenon could be found out in connection with Acculturation, which means when two different cultures or more were contacted they were identified or merged in process of diffusion and change of them. This point of view was the culture anthropologic one that make a comparison and analysis of sameness and difference between cultures. The purpose of this study was to illuminate exotic taste represented in costume in the cluture-anthroplogic aspect, to compare with beauty of costume that each culture of costume and the meaning of the times due to those differences. an aspect of the exotic taste and character in the western costume that was inspected by dividing into 'Primitivism', 'Oriental element' and 'the element of a national costume in the East European bloc ' were as follows; First, Primitivism had something in common with what was pursued in the trend of Modern Art, through the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In fashion fettered by technique, the creation expressed in a free was and showed simple beauty of costume. At the same time, pure emotion expression, creative power and witty strong expression give the cognition of transcendency breaking the routine and the cognition of complexity of an included conception. Those are garments showing not only the primitive thought and mysticism but a fancy, an abstraction, and a life. Colors and accessaries which described nature and matched simple costume composition to the expression of various material or patterns transmitted the image of the primitive strongly. Second, "Drental element" which had an effect on western custome historically in a long time had outstanding luxurios adornmental beauty of custome. Extending from the Arab stated India, China, Korea, Japan, each national costume with a gay national culture became one of motif. Various ornamental factors expressed on Trapez Line, Sime Line and Drape, or Raied style, which did not restrict the body. Those were not only functional Easy Look, but were also satisfying human's ornamental desire. Third, national factors in the East European bloc are theme that begins to be embossed in the late 80's. In view of a political change and cultural situation with a double character of Europe and Orient, it was estimated that national factors have great importance in fashion. Item concerned with new concern appeared at Autumn & Winter collection. It shows elegant and graceful beauty of costume by adding a fur or jewel to simple form. These national factors in the East European bloc are simple form, but shows the difference in more cubic formation than form expressed in Primitivism or Oriental factors Exotic taste appeared form 80's to 91's, is thought to create an forgotten romantic emotion and traditional fashion

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.321-337
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• 1992

Fashions are constantly subject to change, so that forecasting trends in fashion is very difficult and the forecasting is very important. The reason is that forecasting is identifying a hot trend for the next days' business and projecting the future. The purpose of this study is to suggest the realistic forecasting theory identify fashion trends at present, further forecast fashion trends to 1995. For this study, historical models (th historical resurrection model, the historical continuity model) and the art movement model among the behavioral science models which was suggested in 1986 by Geoge B.Sproles were selected. According to this study, was exhibited. This curve was resulted from relation between 1980s fashion trends and the behavioral science models of fashion. Fashion trends to 1995 through will be followings; 1. Body Conscious look as one of the characteristics of modern fashion will bi continued throughout 1990s' fashion trends. 2. The attraction of Mini style was started from the middle of 1980s, recently gets near micro mini and super shouts, These are representative of the historical continuity model. 3. Mini look as revivals of '60s in early 1990s fashion trends. This phenomenon identifies that "Fashion is repetition" 4. When Mini look and super shorts reach, will not progress any more. In this time, will bi seen transfer of style be using classic style. Tat is modern classic will be appeared. also this condition is same from late 1960s to early 1970s. In view of the historical base, the action of the varieted pants will be prominent. 5. Fashion trends which passed through this process will transfer from young look to elegant look. In this time, designers will retrospect '30s and '50s fashion trends, and then will design modern feminine look. 6. Ethnic look, the fashion trend after that condition will be accelated feminine look. This look with the feminine look will reveal rich, colorful, elegance feminine image. 7. In 1980s, activity and function in clothes were demanded. The clothes which are considered these condition will be demanded continuously. 8. The variety of fashion will appear as mixmode and new coordinate look in a clothes simultaneously in fashion of '90s. And these looks will creat mixed beauty. 9. Pop art, op art, graphic art will be not only development of textile but also movement of fashion soul in 1990s. The fashion behavior will be continuously scientificated.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.141-148
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• 2007

As Backje(B.C. 18-A.D. 600) is the whole area of Chungcheong, Jeonra, Kangwon and Gyeongsang provinces, the son of the founder of Goguryeo, King Onjoe, making the castle Wu'irae capital of the nation, founded Backje. The capital was transferred to Hansung by B.C. 5 and then to Gongju by A.D. 475. Backje governed the east of China and the northeastern coast. Due to the effect of Chinese culture there are remarkably Chinese cultural elements in dress and its ornament of Baekje. Therefore on the side of cultural part, the noble culture was formed more polished than that of Goguryeo, which affected the culture of dress and ornament. And also there were class differentiation noticeably. Baekje created splendid culture and affected the culture development of Shinra and Japan. The motive of culture creation could be the top of three countries in the foreign trade because there were geographically the widest vast plain and coastline which stretches out from north to south. Although there haven't been many materials about the cultural heritage and records more than other countries, through the modern visual point its design is fresh and more elegant those of other countries. But the fact is that there are few materials related to Baekje. What is worse, there rarely remains all original form and most of them are broken and lost. According1y, we cannot understand not only an original form of Baekje culture and but also the meaning included in it. It goes without saying that there are few materials about the clothes and fabrics. As understanding the culture of Baekje itself is insufficient, a culture enterprise utilizing it - to improve both the added value and economical achievement while combining the latest culture resources with other fields - hasn't been successful. In this study, the purpose is to improve economic power through commercialization and industrialization of the sources of the culture of Baekje. By reanalyzing a form and an image of Baekje relics, it is designed with new motif and modem preference on the condition of our peculiar cultural heritage. And while using this motif with Jacquard pattern, we made it possible to be applied to real life such as interior trinkets, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.145-164
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• 1997

Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.27
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• pp.59-79
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• 2012

China and Japan are geographically close and the two countries had shared the Chinese Character Culture and the thoughts of Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism since the ancient age. They also actively exchanged culture in various areas. Some cultural exchanges had been caused by surrounding environment and culture had been introduced to other country in a natural way; while some cultural exchanges had been forcibly introduced through artificial process. It is believed that such cultural phenomenon must have had impact on the make-up cultures of the two countries and it was assumed that there must have been commons and differences in the make-up cultures of the two countries. This study explored the historical background of the Ching dynasty of China and the Edo Age in Japan, which are in the same time frame, and studied the aesthetic consciousness of the two countries at the time. Then the make-up style of ladies in the two countries had been studied to find out how their aesthetic consciousnesses had been expressed in the make-ups of the two countries. Then the commons and differences in make-up skills between the two countries had been identified. According to the study results, the main stream of aesthetics during the Ching dynasty in China can be classified into Confucianism aesthetics and Taoism aesthetics. On the other hand, the main stream of aesthetics during the Edo Age in Japan can be classified into "mitate(見立)", "ikki(いき)" and "garumi(かるみ). The skin care in the make-up culture of Ching dynasty in China was based on "rouge (?脂, yanzhi)" and "powder(粉, fen)". The Ching ladies loved the make-up style using rouge. It had been same both in the high society and common people. The eyebrow care was delicate and curved so that the feminine beauty with elegant spirit could be emphasized. The lips had been expressed to be smaller and the ladies tried to express elegance and reliability, rather than frail and tender feminine image. The skin care in the make-up culture of Edo Age in Japan focused on even applying of white powder so that the face would look soft. The eyebrow make-up was a very important part of the make-up. The shapes of eyebrow had been advanced in various styles and there had been eyebrow make-up styles such as "crescent-shaped brow (三日月), "crane style brow (鶴眉) and "Tang style brow (唐眉). The lips had been applied of thick red color, imitating the make-up skill of the ladies in the entertainment business. The lips make-up skill expressing the lips in two colors had been quite popular. Among the make-up skills during the Edo Age in Japan, the "black teeth (齒黑)" can be said as the most unique make-up style of Edo Age.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.130-141
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• 2012

This study examines the characteristics of landscape elements and the reappearance techniques of traditional landscape image in Chinatown of the Shanghai Street in Busan, Korea. The subjects of the study are commercial buildings owned by Chinese residents, commercial buildings' naming design and environmental sculptures in the Shanghai Street. The results are as follows: First, the design methods of the front side of commercial buildings were classified into two parts: facede design of buildings and signboard design. The design form of the buildings' facades were classified into five types, there are: emphasis type on Chinese characters' signboard, addition type on decorative signboard, introduction type of traditional patterns, imitation type of traditional architectures and modern architectures' modes. The signs of chinese commercial buildings were observed mostly as having a traditional Chinese font in yellow/white on a red background. It has been found that this style was the most popular method of sign design. Secondly, The commercial buildings' naming design was analyzed into design methods and meanings. Design methods were classified into three types: a combination of meaning and place, a combination of season and atmosphere and tourist attractions. The meaning of the commercial buildings' names was divided into three kinds: the wishes of the prosperity, elegant type and the appropriation of local attractions. Thirdly, the environmental sculptures of Shanghai Street were found to have been influenced by both through out Chinese culture with mixed Korean culture. Finally, as for characteristics of landscape elements, we found three reappearance techniques - addition, replacement, juxtaposition. The technique of addition is added new face to the base map by just two methods - extending and overlapping area. Replacement is created new faces from base map by the action of replacing, it has three types - local replacement, package replacement, successive replacement. Juxtaposition is the fact of two or more things placed together with contrasting effect, it also has three types - the same kind juxtaposition, a different kind juxtaposition, topological juxtaposition. This study is the basic research which is analyzing the landscape design in chinatown. But the research only on Shanghai Street may have some limits in scope. It is considered an necessary study to add, which is about chinatown in other city such as Incheon, Jeonju. Then it is expected that the results of this study can be used for the basic data of the landscape plans, that municipalities are actively progressing their respective development projects of Chinatown.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.1-21
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• 2013

This study has researched the characteristics and elements of the chuibyong, a sort of trellis in the Joseon Dynasty through the old pictorial data. The results were as follows; First, as a result of the analysis for the 25 pictorial data in the Joseon Dynasty, the chuibyongs have usually functioned as screening the facility to protect the private life and dividing the spaces of the site, but it was internally regarded as the props which symbolized the dignity and elegance of high class. Especially, not only the faunas such as crane and deer, and the floras such as Pinus densiflora, Musa basjoo, bamboo species and Paulownia coreana, but also various garden elements including oddly shaped stone, pond and pavilion were shown in the surrounding area of the chuibyong, and they were considered as a series of combination that was needed in the ideal garden for the literati. Secondly, the chuibyong was recognized as the ideological object which was typical of the literati culture in the story derived from an ancient event of China. Such image has been reflected intactly in the garden culture, and the chuibyong has been used(considered) as the important scenery of the season to imitate and reenact the Chinese Classical Garden in the narrative painting. Thirdly, in terms of the shape and function, the chuibyong in the paintings in the Joseon Dynasty basically had the function of the shielding and spatial division. Fourthly, the height of the chuibyung was similar to the one of fence which exceeds the person's height or Youngbyek(影壁) which is installed in the front and the rear of the main gate in China, and the various shape's chuibyung was properly set up in many spaces. Lastly, the making of the chuibyong in Joseon Dynasty was related to the trend of the writer's culture which was popular nationally in Ming dynasty rather than the particular functions or the location conditions. Especially, the symbol expression of the chuibyong showed on 'Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden' which was brought from China was recreated in the mansion of the upper class in Hanyang city as the center, and the primary mode for the expression of the wealth and writer's spirit through the chuibyong was transformed into the high-quality's garden element which could be created in the royal palace or the mansion of the upper class. Also, the use of the chuibyung was changed by spreading into the residential style for common people after the mid-nineteenth century, and it means that the chuibyung was developed into Korean styles.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.172-205
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• 2011

Go bears significant meanings in terms of cultural and entertaining functions in Asia Eastern such as China and Japan. Beyond the mere entertaining level, it produces philosophical and mythic discourse as well. As a part of effort to seek an identity of Korean traditional garden culture, this study traced back to find meanings of rock-go-board and taste for the arts which ancestors pursued in playing Go game, through analysis and interpretation of correlation among origin of place name, nearby scenery, carved letters and vicinal handed-down place name. At the same time, their position, shape and location types were interpreted through comprehensive research and analysis of stone-go-boards including rock-go-board. Particularly, it focused on the rock names related to Sundoism(仙道) Ideal world, fixed due to a connection between traces of Sundoism and places in a folk etymology. Series of this work is to highlight features of the immortal sceneries, one of traditional landscaping ideals, by understanding place identity and scenic features of where the rock-go-boards are carved. These works are expected to become foundation for promotion and preservation of the traditional landscaping remains. The contents of this study could be summarized as follows; First, round stone and square board for round sky and angled land, black and white color for harmony of yin and yang and 361paths for rotating sky are symbols projecting order of universe. Sayings of Gyuljungjirak(橘中之樂), Sangsansaho(商山四皓), Nangagosa(爛柯故事) formed based on the idea of eternity stand for union of sky and sun. It indicates Go game which matches life and nature spatiotemporally and elegant taste for arts pursuing beauty and leisure. Second, the stone-go-boards found through this research, are 18 in total. 3 of those(16.1%), Gangjin Weolnamsaji, Yangsan Sohanjeong and Banryongdae ones were classified into movable Seokguk and 15(83.9%) including Banghakdong were turned out to be non-movable rock-go-boards carved on natural rocks. Third, upon the result of materializing location types of rock-go-boards, 15 are mountain stream type(83.9%) and 3 are rock peak type(16.1%). Among those, the one at Sobaeksam Sinseonbong is located at the highest place(1,389m). Considering the fact that all of 15 rock-go-boards were found at mountainous areas lower than 500m, it is recognizable that where the Go-boards are the parts of the living space, not far from secular world. Fourth, there are 7 Sunjang(巡將) Go with 17 Hwajeoms(花點), which is a traditional Go board type, but their existences, numbers and shapes of Hwajeom appear variously. Based on the fact, it is recognizable that culture of making go-board had been handed down for an extended period of time. Among the studied rock-goboards, the biggest one was Muju Sasunam[$80(82)cm{\times}80(82)cm$] while the smallest one was Yangsan Sohandjeong Seokguk ($40cm{\times}40cm$). The dimension of length and breadth are both $49cm{\times}48cm$ on average, which is realistic size for actual Go play. Fifth, the biggest bed rock, an under-masonry with carved Go-board on it, was one in Muju Sasunam[$8.7m{\times}7.5m(65.25m^2)$], followed by ones in Hoengseong Chuiseok[$7.8m{\times}6.3m(49.14m^2$] and Goisan Sungukam[$6.7m{\times}5.7m(37.14m^2)$]. Meanwhile, the smallest rock-go-board was turned out to be one in Seoul Banghak-dong. There was no consistency in directions of the Go-boards, which gives a hint that geographical features and sceneries of locations were considered first and then these were carved toward an optimal direction corresponding to the conditions. Sixth, rock-go-boards were all located in valleys and peaks of mountains with breathtaking scenery. It seems closely related to ancestors' taste for arts. Particularly, rock-go-boards are apprehended as facilities related to taste for arts for having leisure in many mountains and big streams under the idea of union of sky and human as a primitive communal line. Go became a medium of hermits, which is a traditional image of Go-game, and symbol of amusement and entertainment with the idea that Go is an essence of scholar culture enabling to reach the Tao of turning back to nature. Seventh, the further ancient time going back to, the more dreamlike the Go-boards are. It is an evident for that Sundoism, which used to be unacceptable once, became more visible and realistic. Considering the high relation between rock-go-boards and Sundoism relevant names such as Sundoism peak in Danyang Sobaeksan, 4 hermits rock in Muju and Sundoism hermit rock in Jangsu, Sundoism hermit rocks and rock-go-boards are sceneries and observation spots to express a communication of worship and longing for Sundoism. Eighth, 3 elements-physical environment such as location type of the rock-go-boards, human activities concentrated on 8 sceneries and Dongcheongugok(洞天九曲) setup and relevancy to Confucian scholars, as well as 'Sangsansaho' motif and 'Nangagosa' symbolic meaning were used as interpretation tools in order to judge the place identity. Upon the result, spatial investigation is required with respect to Sunyoodongcheon(仙遊洞天) concept based on enjoyment to unify with the nature rather than Dongcheongugok concept of neo-Confucian, for Dongcheon and Dongmoon(洞門) motives carved around the rock-go-boards. Generally, places where mountain stream type rock-go-boards were formed were hermit spaces of Confucianism or Sundoism. They are considered to have compromised one other with the change of times. Particularly, in the rock-go-board at the mountain peak, sublimity-oriented advent of Sundoism is considered as a significant factor to control place identity. Ninth, including where the rock-go-boards were established, the vicinal areas are well-known as parts of Dongcheongugok and Palkyung(八景) mostly. In addition, many of Sundoism relevant expressions were discovered even in the neighboring carvings written by scholars and nobility, which means sophisticated taste based on longing for Sundoism world played a significant role in making go-board. The rock-go-board is an integration of cultural phenomena naturally managed by seclusion of scholars in the Joseon Dynasty as well as remains and essence of Korean traditional landscaping. Some rock-go-boards out of 17 discovered in South Korea, including ones in Sobaeksan Sinsunbong, Banghak-dong, Chungju Gongili, Muju Sasunam, Yangsan Eogokdong Banryongdae Seokguk, are damaged such as cracks in rocks or fainted lines by hardships of time and hand stains. Worse yet, in case of Eunyang Bangudae Jipcheongjeong board, it is very difficult to identify the shape due to being buried. Rock-go-boards are valuable sculptures in terms of cultural asset and artwork since they reflect ancestors' love for nature and longing for Sundoism world. Therefore, they should be maintained properly with right preservation method. Not only rock-boards itself but also peripheral places are excellent cultural heritages and crucial cultural assets. In addition, vicinal sceneries of where rock-goboards and pavilion spots are the representative remains of embracing prototype of Korean traditional landscaping and major parts of cultural properties.