• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.42-58
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• 2005

This study examines the color image of the early 20th century and compares the work of designers' who represented fashion and trend at that time with cinema costume which made after 1990's. This shows the relationship and differences between the color of the past which is presented through designer's works and present which is visualized through cinema costume. The result of this study shows that the color which is reproduced through cinema costume is decided according to the story, time period, scenery space and character of the film rather than being a genuine attempt at reviving the color of the past time period. The color is exaggerated or limited to manipulate the effects of character and story creating a stronger impression to the audience.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.80-92
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• 2017

Fashion trend is more than a social phenomenon that multitudes of people accept as popular styles of clothing. The purpose of this study was to understand the influence of fashion trend over time and distance. Geographically thousands of miles apart, the U.S. has strongly influenced fashion in Korea, revealed by references and historic depictions collected from literature and web sites. Results of the study are summarized as five issues: First, emergence of female missionaries from the U.S. American missionaries working in the late Great Korean Empire performed a significant role importing Western culture to Korea. Second, as opportunities of education increased, women studying abroad introduced Western fashion to Koreans when they returned to Korea. They were more open to Western culture than other Koreans and moderately harmonized their Korean sentiment and Western culture, mitigating cultural shock and enabled other Koreans to accept Western culture. Third, the effect of fashionistas on media. Singers working for U.S. armies stationed in Korea and movie stars appearing in Hollywood movies profoundly affected Korean pop culture and fashion trends in Korea. Fourth, following First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy of the U.S. She was an influential figure in those days and a fashion leader as well. Lastly, acceptance of working girl fashion depicted in American television shows. American working girls depicted on American TV shows were highly admired by young Korean women, so the fashion of American working girls became a major fad among young Korean women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1076-1087
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• 2004

The purpose of the study is to give new aesthetic values of black dress one of the important items in contemporary women＇s fashion. Through the work, to give the new aesthetic characteristics that women really needed can be found. This study was processed by fashion books and articles, literal material with fashion photos which were related fashion trend from 1920 to the present. The results are as follows: In early 20th century, the black dress, which had simple form pursuing function like little black dress. In the middle of the 20th century, elegance and minimalism was represented by black dress, expressed erotic images together with see-through fabrics. In the end of the 20th century, body conscious style of black dress expressed sensual images of women. Modem black dress has design characteristics of the form: simple, close, exposure type and of the materials: matte, transparent and dazzling etc. Simple type emphasizes feminine elegance, while close type and exposure type disclose woman body curve to express erotic images. Matte materials made black dress express feminine elegance while transparent materials and dazzling materials made black dress express erotic and sensual beauty. The aesthetic characteristics of black dress were as followings: Sensualism expresses sexual attractiveness of women-close type and exposure type black dress and see-through materials and dazzling materials made black dress. Simplicity of extreme decoration effects are expressed through black dress having temperate and simple form. Femineity expresses traditional femineity to emphasize chaste, modest and elegant women images-the black dress, which is made of simple form, velvet and satin materials. Modernism combines black colour, which is called modem colour, with simplicity and function factors and pursues simple form. Ascetic practice controls mental and physical desire of the individuals, simple form without decoration covering up woman body and box type silhouette of black dress. Therefore, the study on image of the black dress, which have made appearance at modern fashion, is thought to help develop fashion trends and design, through which modern women express themselves and their beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.109-126
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressional characteristics of the machine aesthetics in the fashion design. First, this study was started from analyzing mechanical beauty represented on the early 20th century art style. Machine aesthetics has influenced on the art and fashion design from modern to now. Futurism was grounded in the complete renewal of human sensibility brought about by the great discoveries of science. Especially, Russia avant-garde was inspired by the Futurism, that is Rayonism, Constructivism, Suprematism. Kasimir Malevich moved on immediately to purely abstract paintings of which the first was a black square on a white canvas. He had begun the art he called 'Suprematism'. Malevich's geometry was funded on the straight line, the supremely elemental form which symbolized man's ascendancy over the chaos of nature. The square was the basic suprematist element and was a repudiation of the world of appearances, and of past art. He repudiated any marriage of convenience between the artist and the engineer. Vladimir Tatlin made some of the most revolutionary works of modern art, these were the first works to be called 'construction'. Constructivists believed that the essential conditions of the machine and the consciousness of man inevitably create an aesthetic which would reflect their time. They eulogized simple shapes. That believed that buildings and objects should be freed from the ornamental excrescences and the accumulated barnacles of past art. Consequently, under the theoretical background, the result is as follows. First, The functional formativeness of machine aesthetics was expressed as a geometrical silhouette, construction line, non-ornamental construction, simple color in the 20th century design. Second, The mechanical formativeness of machine aesthetics was expressed as a construction of new material-iron, aluminium, plastic, glass-, geometrical form of material in he 20th century design. That is, machine beauty has more concerned with the expressional ideology of the art style and the formativeness of fashion design by silhouette, construction line, material, form.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.148-165
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• 2017

An assortment of daily supplies have been documented in and accounting book that Hwa-sun Song, a wholesale dealer in Hongcheon, Gangwon-do, sent to Young-hui Sin, a customer. This study analyzed a total of 163 documentations in the accounting book between 1910 to 1916, which includes types of daly supplies, trading volume, and prices, maintained accounting between. Consequently, we are able to indentify companies that produced the applicable goods, names of products, units by which goods were counted, and the lowest and highest prices prevailing, along with kinds of goods patronized in everyday life in Hongcheon in the early 20th century. Paper had the maximum trading volume. The second, most traded were cigarettes, a symbol of the new culture. These were traded under various brand names, such as Kkotpyo, Guksyu, Sanhopyo, Syonghak, and Joil. Foodstuffs, were the third most traded items, including fish, fruits, sugar, Waeddeok, Chilwaeddeok, Color candies and Okchyun candies. Our results indicate that the snack food business had developed since the 19th century. Lighting equipment, oil, candles, matches as well as traditional oil lamps and flints cornered the fourth largest stock being traded. Medications were fifth, with prescriptions written for Insohwan, Hoechyungsan and Siungo, including quinine, a medicine for malaria. Other trades included kitchen appliances such as soup bowls, porcelain bowls, kettles, and drinking cups, and a variety of daily supplies such as mirrors, mats, umbrellas, Geumjiwaemil, hair oil imported from Japan, and soap.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.411-421
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• 2000

Black froak coat, white shirts, top hat and cane has been the symbol of gentlemen in 19th and early of 20th century. The pattern invented by Savile Row in London prevailed whole England. Such a pattern has been the standard form for two hundred years all over the word, although it was replaced with a functionalism which developed in Italy and America at the end of 20th century. The clothes of gentlemen was developed by several factors ; English people respect a tradition. The clothes was practical, since the weather in England was bad. The success of Industrial Revolution made England wealthy. Various special clothes in sports, for example, riding, criket, golf and tennis also contribute the modern gentlemen clothes with advance tailoring technique. The change of gentlemenship with social environment, from Regency dandy, Romantic gentlemen to Muscular Christianity, was studied. Idial gentlemenship and development its clothes which is now the standard of modern men's wear also studied.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.24-37
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• 2011

This study aims to figure out any possible expanded expression methods and diverse formative effects in fashion design by recognizing the importance of objects that suggest new paradigms as a means of expressing aesthetic consciousness in contemporary fashion and analogizing the formative characteristics of objects used in fashion and their significance. Accordingly, the study focuses on analyzing and interpreting objects introduced to fashion design with a formative view by substituting the concept of an object that has taken an important position in the contemporary arts for fashion. This study further aims to examine the concept of objects by trend and their characteristics within a syntactical structure and come up with a standard for classification of objects and a framework of analysis from cubism in the early 20th century when the concept of an object began to appear in arts to Dadaism, Surrealism, Pop art, Land art, Environmental art and the present time. Finally, the study aims to examine the status of objects in fashion and the relationships between fashion and objects through analyses on fashion objects and to suggest new perspectives and approaches to interpret the contemporary fashion in the 21st century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.170-181
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to suggest the possibility of futurism as original design pursuing newness in approaching 21C by studying how futurism having a great effect on fashion as innovatory ideology in early 20C did became paradigm in 20C fashion and the common peculiarity of the dress and its ornaments in this time before 21C. The Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion are representative futurism fashion of 20C. The common inner inclination in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber fashion are ; First, a future-oriented character. Second, a surrealism character, Third, an anti-cultural character. The greatest peculiarity in the common outer shape in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion is material. First, a innovatory choice. Second, an active motion. Third, a diverse effects. Future dress and its ornaments of 21C may be changed greatly by the development of technique, and this fact supports the forecast that the change of paradigm resulted from the development of science may have an effect on future dress and its ornaments as well as modern one. The paradigm change of futurism fashion would be continued, and its influence would work as main source shaping the form of design in 21C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.527-537
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• 1996

This study tries to understand the characteristics of a man's clothes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century, held by the Ewha Womans University Museum. The author adopted the Assy CAD, an apparel CAD system developed by Assysit Company of Germany, in measuring clothes which is intended to solve the problems raised in the previous measurement of clothes, as well as in the making of patterns. The author used tracing paper to make copies of the curved parts, put them into the computer by digitiger, and made the patterns for more accurate restoration. Furthermore, the author compared Lee Hwang's with the contents of the related literature and excavated apparel from other tombs. As a result, Chopri among Lee Hwang's clothes, retained the typical characteristics of the mid-Chosun men's fashion in its ratio of bodice to skirt, form of sleeves, and size of breast- ties for fastening which appeared in the 17th century. Daechangeui and Jungchimak also were distinctive for Changot and the width of sleeves since the 17th century and were in wide use not only as the daily clothes but also as the shroud. These changes were brought about from the two wars which emphasized prestige and beauty of the clothes rather than their functions. As a result, Changeuis were used more widely, while Chopri which was used as the underwear of officials' uniform, was in decline.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.315-333
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to find out how the aesthetic values and characters of the Avant-garde fashion through semantics analysis of Avant-garde experiments in the early 20th century. Inner expressions of Avant-garde fashion in future dynamism, alien-hostile, and surreal-experimentalism are as followings (1) Reject tradition of existing fashion concept, (2) Dismantle costume material and inter-text characteristics in fashion field, (3) Laugh at material civilization and elite fashion, (4) Pursue primitive and fundamental sensibility on non-civilized world (5) Express human estrangement due to material civilization, (6) Remove the barrier of fashion between luxury and cheap ones, (7) Time, space and purpose is mixed, (8) Open concept as space structure independent of human body, (9) Complicatedness, ambiguity and expression of irregularity as changeableness, (10) Dismantle concept of beauty and ugliness. As you see, fashion design in modern Avan-garde is pursuing newness as beauty of open concept, rejecting all modern tradition and allowing extremity such as experimental, illogic, unreasonable and non-formatted expressions.