• 대한가정학회지
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• 제46권7호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2008

견직물에 홍화 황색소와 홍색소로 염색을 한 후 자외선 조사 후 시료들의 염착량 색채변화, 형태변화, 인장강도변화를 측정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 색소의 종류에 상관없이 자외선 조사시간 증가에 따라 염착량이 감소되었다. 그러나 홍색 소보다는 황색소로 염색한 시료들의 최종 자외선 조사 28일 후의 염착량 보유율이 높은 것으로 나타났으며 견직물의 경우 홍화 홍색소보다는 황색소가 자외선에 대한 내구력이 더욱 있음을 알수 있다. 2. 색채변화의 경우, 황색소로 염색한 시료들도 $L^*$은 증가하고 $a^*$는 감소하고, $b^*$도 감소하였으며, H/VC, ${\Delta}E$ 등 색채 전반에 퇴색이 나타났다. 홍색소로 염색한 시료들은 자외선 조사 시간 증가에 따라 $L^*$은 증가하고 $a^*$는 감소하였으며, $b^*$는 증가하였고, H/VC, ${\Delta}E$ 등 색채 전반에 퇴색이 나타났다. 그러나 조사 28일 후의 색차는 홍화 홍색소보다는 황색소가 훨씬 낮았다. 3. 자외선 조사시간에 따른 형태학적 변화의 결과, 견직물에 대해서는 홍화 색소의 종류에 상관없이 조사 28일 후 모든 시료들에서 심한 손상을 관찰할 수 있었다. 4. 자외선 조사시간에 따른 인장 강도 변화 결과, 모든 종류의 시료에서 자외선 조사시간 증가에 따른 강도의 손실을 알 수 있었다. 그러나 홍색 소보다는 황색소로 염색한 시료들의 인장 강도 보유율이 상대적으로 높은 것으로 나타났다. 이상의 연구 결과를 통해 홍화 염색한 견직물의 경우 자외선 조사에 의해 색소의 종류에 상관없이 염색물 자체의 성능에 많은 변화가 나타났음을 알 수 있다. 그러나 천염 염색물의 자외선에 의한 변화는 섬유의 자체의 특성뿐만 아니라 색소의 차이도 영향을 주는 것으로 보이며, 견직물의 경우에는 홍화 황색소가 홍색 소보다 자외선에 대한 내구성이 더욱 좋은 것으로 파악되었다. 차후 견직물 이외 다른 섬유 종류와 홍화의 두가지 색소가 자외선에 반응하는 연구를 통해 본 연구결과가 보충될 수 있을 것으로 본다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권12호
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• pp.1608-1618
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• 2005

본 연구는 꼭두서니와 그 표준 색소인 알리자린으로 염색한 직물에 조건적 퇴화를 유도하고, 가스 크로마토그라피 질량분석기(GC-MS)를 이용해 퇴화물을 분석하여 이를 선행연구에서 밝혀진 표준 알리자린 색소의 퇴화물과 비교함으로써 대조구로서의 꼭두서니 염료의 정보를 완성하는데 그 목적을 둔다. 아울러 퇴화 전후 염직물의 색차를 측정하여 조건퇴화에 따른 색의 변화를 조사하였다. 퇴화조건은 상온 (RT), 저온$(7^{\circ}C)$ (LT), 고온$(100^{\circ}C)$(OV)의 세 종류의 온도 조건과 염료 폐수처리 용도로 활용되고 있는 $H_2O_2/UV$법 (PER)을 사용하였다. 퇴화시간은 6시간, 24시간, 48시간, 1주, 2주, 4주 각각을 측정하였다. 꼭두서니와 알리자린 염직물 모두 퇴화 전후의 시료에서 alizarin(10.1분)이 검출되었다. 꼭두서니와 알리자린 염직물 모두 퇴화 후 benzoic acid(4.7분), 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol(6.8분), phthalic anhydride(5.8분)가 검출되었다. 꼭두서니와 알리자린 염직물 모두 퇴화 후 붉은색과 노란색이 감소하였다. 꼭두서니 염직물보다 알리자린 염직물의 경우 퇴화 전후의 색차가 더 심하였다. 그러나 가장 퇴화조건이 강한 PER퇴화조건 하에서는 꼭두서니 염직물의 색차가 1주 경과 후에도 매우 심하게 나는 것을 볼 수 있었다. 본 연구의 결과꼭두서니와 그 표준 색소로 염색한 직물이 퇴화할 경우에도 선행연구에서 밝혀진 알리자린의 퇴화물인 benzoic acid, 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol, phthalic anhydride가 검출됨을 확인하였다. 따라서 이들 화합물은 갈변되어 고유의 색을 알 수 없는 출토복식의 염료를 판정할 때 꼭두서니 염료의 사용여부를 확인할 수 있는 대조구 화합물로 사용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다. 퇴화 전후의 색차에 대한 측정결과는 퇴화에 따른 염료의 색 변화에 대한 결과이다 출토복식의 갈변현상은 염료의 변색과 더불어 토양 유기물에 의한 착색도 기인하므로, 출토복식의 색상 변화를 실질적으로 조사하기 위해서는 본 연구의 결과와 함께 토양유기물에 의한 착색에 대한 연구가 병행되어야 할 것으로 본다

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제46권9호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2008

홍화 황색소와 홍색소로 염색을 한 나일론 직물에 자외선을 조사 한 후 시료들의 염착량과 색채변화, 표면 특성 변화와 인장 강도 변화를 측정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 색소의 종류에 상관없이 자외선 조사시간 증가에 따라 염착량이 감소되었다 그러나 홍색 소보다는 황색소로 염색한 시료들의 자외선 조사 28일 후의 염착량 보유율이 더욱 낮았다. 2. 색채변화의 경우, 황색소로 염색한 시료들은 $L^*$은 증가하고 $a^*$와 $b^*$는 감소하였으며, H/VC, ${\Delta}E$등 색채 전반에 퇴색이 나타났다. 홍색소로 염색한 시료들 도 자외선 조사 시간 증가에 따라 $L^*$은 증가하고 $a^*$는 감소하였으며, $b^*$는 증가하였고, H/VC, ${\Delta}E$등 색채 전반에 퇴색이 나타났다. 그러나 홍색소와 황색 소로 염색한 나일론 직물 시료의 조사 28일 후의 색차는 황색소가 더욱 낮아 나일론 직물에는 황색소가 자외선에 대한 견뢰도가 더욱 높은 것으로 보인다. 3. 자외선 조사 시간에 따른 표면 특성 변화의 결과, 색소의 종류와 상관없이 조사 28일 후 모든 시료들에서 심한 손상을 관찰할 수 있었다. 4. 자외선 조사 시간에 따른 인장 강도 변화 결과, 모든 종류의 시료에서 자외선 조사 시간 증가에 따른 강도의 손실을 알 수 있었다. 그러나 홍색소보다는 황 색소로 염색한 나일론 직물 시료들의 인장 강도 보유율이 상대적으로 높은 것으로 나타났다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.788-799
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• 1999

This study was performed to investigate the effect of mordants on the dyeability colorfastness to light and to laundering and biological properties of mordanted and natural-dyed cotton and silk substrates. Natural red dyes were extracted from Caesalpinia Sappan L. (Sappan wood) and Rubia Akane Nakai (Madder) by boil water Five different compounds of Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were used as mordanting agents. The result of this study are sumarized as follows ; 1. In the of the fabrics mordanted and dyed with sappan wood K/S value increases and λmax shifts to the longer wavelength as mordant concentration increases. Color of the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to redder bluer and lighter after mordanting. 2. As the number of repetition of dyeing-mordnating process increase the color of the dyed fabrics tend to be redder bluer and darker. Mordanted dyes with Al and Sn make chroma increase. The quantity of mordant absorbed in the silk fabric increase as mordant concentration increase. More Fe is absorbed in silk than Cr is. 3. After being exposed to light the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to less red Fe and Cu mordanting yeild better colorfastness to light than others does. Natural-dyed fabrics exposed to light tend to be faded and whitened in CIELAB chromaticity co-ordinates. So we might trace back the original color of ancient faded fabrics by changes in color of natural dyes. 4. After washing the colors of natural dyes change to more blue, Fe and Cu mordanting give better colorfastness to wash than others do. 5. The soil-burial cotton is more susceptible to mildew and rot than the silk is. Antimicrobial activity of the natural-dyed cotton can be enhanced by Cu and silk can be enhanced by Cu and Cr mordanting respectively.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.866-877
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• 2012

The natural dyeing of hanji cotton fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. The temperature and time of dyeing were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. In addition, the dyebath has been set at pH 5. Sn pre-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. Regardless of dyeing temperature, K/S values were high when Al, Cu, Fe-mordanted fabrics were dyed in post-mordanting and Sn-mordanted fabrics in pre-mordanting. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. In the processing of hanji cotton fabrics, K/S value was high when hanji cotton fabric was treated with soybean milk at $90^{\circ}C$. Similar K/S value of dyeing was shown when fabrics were processed with chitosan, regardless of dyeing temperature. High K/S value of dyeing was seen when fabrics processed with gallnut tannin at 40. Fabrics dyed with acidic water extract showed yellowish color. Fabrics dyed with alkaline water extract showed reddish color, and fabrics dyed with ethanol extract showed greenish yellow color. In case of Sn-mordanted fabrics, the washing fastness level was between 3 to 4, and other dyed fabrics showed low fastness. The dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness of the fabrics was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness. For antibacterial activity, the dyed fabrics with guava leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity. Hanji cotton fabric maintained certain deodorization in the state of raw fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher UV protection rate than control fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.242-248
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• 2008

This study was aimed to find whether the Chelidonium majus which grows naturally in Korean soil and has a various medical ingredient is valuable as a natural dyeing material and to examine the functionality of Chelidonium majus extract. As the test result of dyeing colorfastness, colorfastness to sunlight was 1st grade for all the dyed fabrics. The colorfastness to laundry for discoloration showed from 1st to 4th grade and that for discoloration showed from 4th to 5th grade through all the dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to perspiration, rubbing, and drycleaning showed from 4th to 5th grade through all the dyed fabrics. In the result of antibiosis test, the dyed cotton fabric showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.0% for Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli evenly when washed one, three, and five times, The dyed silk fabric, when washed one, three, and five times, showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.0% for Staphylococcus aureus, but didn't showed the significant bacteria reduction. As the test result of sun protection test, in the case of the cotton fabric which was dyed but don't use mordant, after one-time washing, S.P.F.(Sun Protection Factor) showed 20.4, the interception rate of UV-A showed 94.3%, and that of UV-B showed 95.2%. After five-time washing, S.P.F. showed 14.3, the interception rate of UV-A showed 90.0%, and that of UV-B showed 93.2%. In the case of the silk fabric which was dyed but don't use mordant, after one time washing, S.P.F. showed 30.5, the interception rate of UV-A showed 95.9%, and that of UV-B showed 96.9%, after five-time washing, S.P.F. showed 31.0, the interception rate of UV-A showed 95.6%, and that of UV-B showed 96.7%.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.486-492
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• 2017

This study finds surface color and functions of natural dyeing from Chamaecyparis obtusa leaves which help cure skin problems such as atopic dermatitis. This study also seeks to find dyeing properties and functions of natural colorants derived from Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum on silk. Dyeing properties and functions are compared between silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum. The comparison examines the feasibility of developing healthy and high functional fabrics and wellness of fashion merchandises. Silk dyeing with Chamaecyparis obtuse leaves yields yellow and double coloring from Chamaecyparis obtusa; however, Rubia tinctorum yields yellow/red on silks. Silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum show a high level on dry cleaning, ultraviolet protection and deodorization. Especially, the dyed silks from leaves of Chamaecyparis obtusa show a 99.7% antimicrobial effect against staphylococcus aureus ATCC 653B. Silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum are better known for medicinal herb for dermatitis, and natural colorant, Rubia tinctorum does not improve significantly functions compared with silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa. However, the dyeing properties improve by composite dyeing. This implies that ways to maximize effects of tie-dyeing technique could be developed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.183-197
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to compare the purchase intention on naturally dyed clothing between Korea and the US. As independent variables that affect the purchase intention, benefits that consumers seek when purchasing naturally dyed clothing, especially for fabric materials, and attitudes towards naturally dyed clothing were selected. A quantitative research method with a survey was employed. 160 data from Korea and 180 data from the US were used for the analysis. The convenience sampling method (i.e., college female students) was used. Descriptive statistics, factor analysis, t-test and regression analysis were employed to test the differences in purchase intention, fabric benefit sought, and the attitudes. The fabric benefit sought selected for this study includes eco-friendliness, uniqueness, aesthetic, comfort and quality. The attitude toward naturally dyed clothing was categorized as an emotional and a cognitive attitude. The results show the significant differences in the fabric benefit sought depending on nationality, major and experiences in natural dyeing. Significant differences were found in of the attitude toward naturally dyed clothing among the nationalities and the experience types in natural dyeing. In addition, there were significant differences in purchase intention toward naturally dyed clothing between Korean and the US participants, and countries show different fabric benefits and attitudes which influenced participants' purchase intention. The results of this study suggest an appropriate fabric planning for environment-friendly fashion products for both countries.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.669-676
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• 2020

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3-4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권3_4호
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• pp.473-484
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• 2002

The physical characteristics of silk and wool fabrics dyed with OFS-FR and SM-FR were examined and color difference and colorfastness of these fabrics were analyzed. The results are as follows; 1. The thickness, density and weight of both dyed fabrics were increased than those of undyed fabrics independently of dyeing materials and mordants. 2. Air permeability of all the silk samples increased than that of undyed silk, on the other hand, air permeability of most of wool samples decreased than that of undyed wool. 3. Thermal insulation values of silk samples were not consistent with dyeing conditions, but those of wool samples increased than those of undyed fabrics regardless of dyeing materials and mordants. 4. Color difference was clear between OFS-FR and SM-FR dyed fabrics. The colors dyed with OFS-FR-Al and OFS-FR-chitos an showed violet, those dyed with SM-FR displayed yellowish, in addition to in case of wool, dyed with OFS-FR-Cu the color was greenish yellow, in case of silk dyed with SM-FR-Cu that was yellowish red. 5. Sense of silk fabrics by sensory-test was soft and smooth. Feeling of colors in silk fabrics was wick, warm and slightly brilliant. In case wool, sense of dyed fabrics was slightly soft and slightly rough. Feeling of colors in wool fabrics was warm but not elegant. Therefore the result of sensory-test in silk might be better than that of in wool. 6. Colorfastness to dry cleaning and perspirations was good, but that to washing and sunlight was not fine.