• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.881-891
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• 2021

This study proposes a simple drape measurement method for the 3D virtualization of garments. The proposed method uses angles or disks of different diameters to evaluate the drape properties easily. We divided 710 fabrics into ten groups based on the drape coefficient, of which 49.6% had drape coefficients of 30 or less. The drape properties were measured to classify the groups into smaller clusters using the angle formed when the center of the fabric was fixed. Accordingly, three clusters were formed for 60° and 100° angles. A method was devised using ten disks of different diameters to classify the remaining two clusters, except the cluster containing only the D10 group (D1-D5 and D5-D9). Three criteria-grade match, a sum of deviation, and standardization of deviation-were used for the classifications. The discriminative ability between groups was high for D1-D5 with disks with 24.0 and 25.5 cm diameters. Furthermore, a disk with a diameter of 16.5 cm was effective for D5-D9. The three-dimensional drape shapes were unique for the ten groups, which can be utilized as fundamental data for 3D virtualization.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.50-55
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• 1999

The repeatability of fabric drape was studied. Two methods for draping were used and the relation between node distributions was investigated using statistical analysis. With this, the relationship between node distribution and fabric mechanical properties was studied. The repeated measurements showed that there was no evidence that fabric has intrinsic node number and the mechanical properties influence on the number of nodes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.189-194
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• 2014

Drape property, one of the dynamic properties, is significant element of appearance and silhouette of garment. There are two methods of measuring drape property: objective method and subjective method. The purpose of this study is to search convenient method of measuring drape property which affects the appearance of garment. The method of this study was as below: First, the drape properties of ten various fabrics were measured within both of professional paper ring and visual handy measuring instrument. Second, Pearson's correlation coefficient was analyzed in order to analyze the correlation of two results of the experiments. This study used professional paper ring and visual handy measuring instrument on ten samples. Both of the results from the paper ring and visual handy measuring instrument were very similar in terms of drape property. Significant correlation between results of the professional paper ring and visual handy method indicates the efficiency of the visual handy measuring at school or work environment etc.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.150-158
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• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.99-106
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• 2007

In this study, the mechanical properties related to the fabric appearance of well being functional bamboo knitted fabric before and after loess dyeing were evaluated. The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by KES-F system, that is, shape retention, draping, wrinkle recovery, compression property, and surface properties, and total hand value of three types of knitted fabric, 100% bamboo, 100% cotton, and bamboo / cotton blend (60 / 40) were evaluated before and after loess dyeing. As a result, it was found that appearance density, shape retention, and drape coefficient of cotton knitted fabric were greater than those of bamboo knitted fabric. After loess dyeing, shape retention and drape coefficient, wrinkle recovery of bamboo knitted fabric improved and WC/C and MMD/SMD decreased. According to THV, the hand of bamboo/cotton blend knit is the best among three samples by compensation the weak properties of the two fiber. Therefore, loess dyeing seemed to be a good method for improving shape retention and hand value of 100% bamboo and bamboo blended fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.49-53
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• 1981

This study was carried out to investigate the drapability of polyester double jersey skirt Drapability is an important aesthetic properties of fabric on clothing construction, In this thesis weight, shearing, bending and non-isotropic characteristics of fabric were regarded as important factors of drapability, Especially for drapability of skirt, I investigated hem effect on various length of hem and skirt, The results were as follows, 1. The less the weight of fabric was, the greater drapability appeared. On fabrics, large pliability and modulus of shear have good drapability, 2. On clothing cutting, non-isotropic property affected on drapability of clothes remark-ably. Drapability order of clothes was greatest in bias direction, next in wale, course direction, 3. The shorter the skirt length and closer at hem line were the larger the hem effect influence upon the drapability of skirt was.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-66
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• 1982

Succeeding to Report 1, to compare folded curtain fabrics with curtain fabrics, the sound pressure level (SPL) of folded curtain fabrics were measured by sound level meter. Transmission coefficient was calculated by the ratio of incidence sound intensity and transmission sound intensity. The relationship between these values and factors (drape coefficient, porosity) relating to the structure of curtain fabrics were investigated experimentally. The following results were obtained: 1. The transmission coefficient by ratio of sound pressure level was lower than that by ratio of sound intensity. 2. In folded curtain fabrics, difference of SPL was smaller and transmission coefficient generally decreased. 3. The relation between the porosity and transmission coefficient of curtain fabrics is given as plus correlation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1116-1124
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• 1996

The factors to presume the shapes of bending and draping were examined in this study, by applying the similar phenomenon and theory of analysis. The findings were as followings: 1. The value of deflection angle (f) of deflection curve were almost consistent with those of K number and the shapes of deflection curve were congruent, under the condition of that the values of EI/w are almost similar and the lengths of samples are consistent. 2. The values of drape area, drape coefficient, mean of deflection angle, and $\pi$ number were consistently estimated and the shapes of drape were almost the same, under the condition of that the values of EI/w are similar and the diameter of samples are consistent. 3. In using the samples with different values of EI/w, scale factor, kl, was obtained from the formula, the shapes of bending of the referent samples and compsactive smaples was geometrically similar, which the lengths of samples were 1,1'and were satisfied with the formula, hi: L'11, and their $\pi$ number were also consistent. 4. In applying the samples with different values of Rllw, scale factor (kl) was obtained and then, when semidiameter of samples was adjusted to be satisfied with the formula, k1=L/L, the shapes of draping of referent samples and comparative samples were geometrically similar. Furthermore, their $\pi$ number was also consistent. 5. The shares of bending and draping could be changed in terms of three factors such as the lengths of samples, bending ridigity, and weigths per unit area. $\pi$ number was obtained from theory of similar phenomenon, which was index to presume shapes of bending and the shapes of draping getting from the three factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.149-159
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• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.