• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.418-424
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to reveal the effects of the seam type on the fabric drape to provide the basic knowledge for proper seam type according to the design of sewing products. Seven kinds of specimens were constructed with seam (no seam, welt seam with over-edged finish, welt seam with bias bound finish, plain seam with over-edged finish, plain seam with bias bound finish, french seam, and flat fell seam) in wrap direction of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18 cm diameter supporting disks, and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Significant differences were found in drape coefficient by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed higher drape coefficients compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. Node numbers in the drape profiles showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens, however, no significant differences were observed in node numbers by the seam types. Significant differences were found in the length of the seamed part by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed longer length of the seamed part compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. The ratio of the maximum length in the seam direction to the maximum length perpendicular to the seam direction showed significant differences by the seam types.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.340-346
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• 2005

Cotton and rayon fabrics were treated with BTCA an DMDHEU which are used as DP finishes, and their effects on physical properties and the drape of BTCA and DMDHEU treated fabrics were compared. The wrinkle recoverablity of cellulosic fabrics treated with DP finishes was improved. The CWRA of DMDHEU treated fabrics was more increased than that of BTCA treated fabrics, but the WWRA of BTCA treated fabrics was more increased than that of DMDHEU treated fabrics. The drape of fabrics treated with BTCA and DMDHEU were reduced, but the drape of DMDHEU treated fabrics was worse than one treated with BTCA. This is because BTCA and DMDHEU have the distinction of crosslink. The bending and shering properties of BTCA and DMDHEU treated cellulosic fabrics were changed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.453-459
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to provide the basic knowledge to determine the proper seam finish according to the design of sewing products. Four seam finishes(no seam finishes, over-edged seam finishes, turned-and-stitched seam finishes, and bias-bound seam finishes) were constructed with seams in warp, weft and bias directions of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18cm diameter supporting disks and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Drape coefficients of the fabrics increased with seam formation and varied by the seam finishes, however no significant differences in drape coefficients by the seam finishes were observed on the heavier fabric. Node numbers of heavier fabric were more deeply affected by the seam finishes than those of lighter fabric. The specimens with turned-and-stitched seam finishes and bias-bound seam finishes showed significantly smaller node numbers compared to the specimens with no seam finishes and over-edged seam finishes on heavier fabric. The length of the seamed part showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens and negative correlation with the number of nodes in each seam direction. The maximum length of all draped specimens was found in the same direction as the seam direction. In the case of the lighter fabric, the seam and the seam finish had a great influence on the shape of the draped profile.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.169-175
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• 2003

A simulation system for versatile garment drape has been developed. Using this system, the shape of a garment can be simulated in consideration of fabric physical properties as well as the interaction between fabrics and other objects. Each fabric piece in a garment is modeled using a geometrically constrained particle system and its behavior is calculated from an implicit numerical integration algorithm in a relatively short time. The system consists of three modules including a preprocessor for the preparation of fabric patterns and external objects, a postprocessor for the results of three-dimensional visualization, and a drape simulation engine. It can be used for the design process of textile goods, garments, furniture, or upholsteries.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.47-57
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• 1984

Effect on the hand value and mechanical properties of blend ratio and weight had been investigated Oil summer suits for men. Relation between the mechanical properties and the deformation in behavior was also studied. The mechanical properties which influence the hand values and total hand value had been discussed and the relation between mechanical properties, hand values and fabric count had, too. As result, the following conclusions had been obtained. 1) The values of tensile properties increased with the increase of blend ratio of wool. The values of surface properties increased according to the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 2HB(bending properties) of polyester/wool blend showed higher value than that of $100\%$ wool, but there was no change in the shearing properties according to the blend ratio. The values of stiffness, crispness and anti-drape stiffness of blend fabric showed higher values than those of $100\%$ wool fabric. The value of fullness (including softness) of blend fabric showed lower value than that of $100\%$ wool fabric. 2) The correlation between hand values and mechanical properties showed following order. in stiffness : bending properties>surface properties in crispness: surface properties>bending properties in anti-drape stiffness: bending properties>surface properties>shearing properties.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2004년도 정기총회 및 춘계학술대회
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• pp.107-108
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• 2004

Clothing among lots of products is a means to express individuality and lifestyle of individual, its functions and uses are changing. Recently, it is asking the higher grade, specialization, diversity of production, because of the influence of changed lifestyle of consumers(Chang, 1999). Knitwear that can satisfy such as consumer’s desire, and give the soft and convenient feeling is a popular fashion item that women can enjoy because of its unique characters like the flexibility, expansion, and drape. (omitted)

• 한국콘크리트학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국콘크리트학회 2010년도 춘계 학술대회 제22권1호
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• pp.39-40
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• 2010

건물이 대형화 고층화되어 감에 따라서 층고를 절감시킴과 동시에 장스팬을 구현할 수 있는 부재에 대한 요구가 늘어가고 있다. 비록 많은 연구자에 의해서 층고절감과 장스팬에 대한 요구를 만족시키기 위한 연구가 진행되고 있지만, 여전히 두 가지 요구사항을 동시에 만족시키는 효율적인 시스템이 부족한 실정이다. 본 연구에서 제안하는 파형웨브를 가진 프리스트레스 합성보는 시공성과 구조적인 성능을 동시에 향상시킬 수 있다. 시공과정에서 발생할 수 있는 비대칭 하중에 상대적으로 작은 부재를 가지고 강한 저항성을 발휘하여 시공성을 높일 수 있으며, 또한 동바리와 서포트 등의 가설부재를 줄임으로써 경제성도 확보할 수 있다. 파형웨브는 아코디언효과를 만들기 때문에 프리스트레스의 도입효율이 좋아져 더 큰 상향치올림를 유발시켜 부재의 처짐을 줄일 수 있다. 5개의 실험체를 제작하여 제안한 합성보의 효율성을 검토하였는데 그 주요한 변수로는 웨브와 플렌지에 용접된 형태와 drape point의 개수이다. 실험을 통하여 제안한 프리스트레스 합성보가 기존에 프리스트레스를 도입하지 않은 합성보 보다 큰 휨강성과 휨강도를 발휘한다는 것을 증명하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.79-88
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• 1987

In order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's summer fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 78 commercial fabrics of women's summer cloth were classfied into 43 silk and 35 polyester fabrics according to materials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. Polyester fabrics show higher tensile deformation than those of silk fabric. And also polyster fabric has a easy to shape-less and makes a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics is superior to polyester fabrics in formation and shear elasticity building box-shaped silhouette. 3. Polyester fabrics show sufficient ability to recover from tending deformation and drapability On the other hand, the compressibility and bending rigidity of silk fabrics were superior to polyester fabrics. 4. Regardless of materials, the bending properties is closely assocsiated with stiffness, anti-drape stiffness and flexibility with soft feeling. Fullness & softness and crispness is primarily influenced by surface properties. There is substantive relationship between scrooping and sheaing properties.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.408-412
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• 2003

The micro structure of POY was modified and a wool-like touch yarn of composite fibers with different shrinkage was made. With this yarn 12 different fabrics with wool like touch were prepared. The characteristic physical property changes of the fabrics examined are as follows: 1. In all cases, the initial high shrinkage stages were observed in hot water treatment and the 3D images of complex multilayer of typical doubling fibers with different shrinkage were also observed in hot air treatment of 170C. 2. The tensile strength changes of satin and plain fabrics with the change of twist count showed similar behavior. However, WT's were slightly higher and RT's was lower in twill and satin fabrics than those in plain fabric. 3. Since a slight decrease of B's of twill fabric found with increasing twist count under given experimental condition, it could be influenced on the anti-drape stiffness was decreased and flexibility was increased. 4. A significant decrease of G values was observed in the twist count 800-1000 T.P.M However, in the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M G values observed were kept nearly constant. 5. MIU of plain and twill fabrics showed a drastic decrease at the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M.