• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.111-121
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• 2012

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. A5 a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as $y=0.5838x-0.0065x^2+9.03{\times}10^{-5}x^3$. In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient($y$) can be represented by $y=y=\sqrt[3]{Stiffness}-10.72$.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권7호
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• pp.987-994
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• 2000

Cotton fabrics were finished with mixture of BTCA and silicone by pad-dry-cure process to achieve better mechanical properties than those of finished with BTCA alone. The changes of mechanical properties o( finished cotton fabrics were measured with by the KES-FB System and the hand values were calculated from the data of mechanical properties. With the durable press finish with BTCA tensile, bending, shear and compression properties increased. In hand values, Stiffness Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness increased, and Fullness & Softness decreased. Whereas silicone treatment reduced bending and shear properties and improved tensile and compressional resilience. Thus, Stiffness Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness decreased, and Fullness & Softness increased. These results indicated that BTCA treatment restricts fiber/yarn mobility in the fabric structure due to crosslinking, but silicone treatment reduces inter-fiber and inter-yarn frictional forces. Therefore, finish with mixture of BTCA and silicone provided cotton fabrics with a lower Stiffness, Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness and a higher Fullness & Softnesss than finish with BTCA alone.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.9-16
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• 1985

There are two standards for evaluation of fabric aesthetics, the feeling of fabric and the fabric sense of sight. Its drapalility with lustre is one of factors to decide the fabric sense of sight. This study was carried out to investigate the drape property property of fabrics. The fabric characteristics and the physisical properties of fabrics were tested. And the effect of the laundering on the drape properties was examined. RESULTS : 1. The drape coefficients of sampled fabrics were increasd as the thickness of fabrics were increased, excluding the fabric consisting of 60% polyester$\times$40% wool. 2. The drape coefficient of sampled fabrics were decreased as the cover faders of fabrics were increased, excluding the summer clothes and the fabrics of 100% wool. 3. The drape coefficients of fabrics other than sumer clothes were increased as the weight of fabrics were in creased. 4. Positive correlation was observed between the stiffness and the drape coefficient. 5. Negative correlation was observed between the fabric shrinkage and the drape coefficient. 6. The drape coefficient was decreased to a certain limit by laundering.But as the laundering was repeated up to certain number, the drape coefficient and the node number, a significant correlation was observed between the drape coefficient and the node shape.

• 한국컴퓨터그래픽스학회논문지
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.117-125
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• 2023

가상 시뮬레이션을 이용한 의류 디자인 개발에서는 가상과 실제의 차이가 최소화되어야 한다. 가상 의상과 실제 의상의 유사성을 높이는 데에 가장 기본이 되는 작업은 의상 제작에 사용될 옷감의 물성을 최대한 유사하게 표현할 수 있는 시뮬레이션 파라미터를 찾는 것이다. 시뮬레이션 파라미터 최적화 절차에는 전문가의 수작업으로 이루어지는 튜닝 과정이 포함되는데, 이 작업은 높은 전문성과 많은 시간이 요구된다. 특히 조정된 시뮬레이션 파라미터를 적용한 결과를 다시 확인하기 위해 시뮬레이션을 반복적으로 실행할 때 많은 시간이 소요된다. 최근 이 문제를 해결하기 위해 파라미터 튜닝에 주로 사용되는 드레이프 테스트 시뮬레이션 결과를 빠르게 추정하는 인공신경망 학습 모델이 제안되었다. 하지만 기존 연구에서는 비교적 간단한 선형 강성 모델을 사용하였으며 드레이프 시뮬레이션 전체를 추정하는 대신 일부만 추정하고 나머지는 보간하는 방식을 사용하였다. 실제 의류 디자인 개발 과정에서는 주로 비선형 강성 모델이 적용된 시뮬레이터가 사용되지만, 이에 대한 연구는 아직 부족하다. 본 논문에서는 비선형 강성 모델을 대상으로 드레이프 시뮬레이션 결과를 추정하기 위한 새로운 학습 모델을 제안한다. 본 연구에서 제안된 학습 모델은 시뮬레이션 결과인 고해상도 메시 모델 전체를 추정한다. 제시하는 방법의 성능을 검증하기 위해 세 가지 드레이프 테스트 방식을 대상으로 실험을 진행하여 추정 정확도를 평가한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.877-884
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• 2005

The importance and usefulness of a subjective evaluation of the sensorial properties of scoured silk fabrics is discussed. Silk fabric was treated at 12 different scouring rates and the scoured fabrics were used as specimens. Using paired comparisons, three trained subjects, evaluated seven subjective sensorial properties; softness, elasticity, drape, stiffness, crispness, and luster. A quad experimental design was adopted as an effective and reliable evaluation method. Results showed that some properties such as drape, luster were easily discriminated depending on the scouring rates whereas the smoothness was not easily discriminated. As the scouring rate increased, it was hard to discriminated the softness, drape, and stiffness, which indicates there is an optimum scouring rates to have a certain sensorial properties. It was suggested that these results should be applied to the manufacturing process.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.25-34
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• 1996

Diphenyl ethanolamidophosphate(DPEAD) was synthesized for the purpose of developing a new flame retardant for cotton fabric. As the intermediate material was used diphenyl chlorophosphate(DPCP) and it was synthesized by using phosphorus oxychloride and phenol as the starting materials. The final product DPEAP was obtained by the reaction of DPCP and ethanolamine. The flame retardancy of cotton fabrics treated by DPEAP through pad-dry-cure(PDC) process was examined at various conditions. The physical property change of the DPEAP treated cotton fabrics were investigated by examining the drape stiffness, the wrinkle recovery, and the tensile strength. The results are summarized as follows: (1) DPEAP has shown excellent flame retardancy on cotton fabrics in comparison to other flame retardants for cotton fabrics available commercially. (2) The optimal condition for PDC process found was that the curing temperature was 16$0^{\circ}C$, the DPEAP concentration was 10%, the catalyst $({NH_{4})_{2}HPO_{4}$ concentration was 7.0%, and the fixing agent hexamethylol melamine (HMM)/DPEAP weight ratio was 1/8. (3) The wrinkle recovery of the processed fabrics increased with increasing DPEAP concentration. (4) The drape stiffness of the cotton fabrics treated by DPEAP have shown essentially no change until increasing DPEAP concentration to 15 %, however DPEAP concentration exceeds 20% the drape stiffness increased drastically with increasing DPEAP concentration. When DPEAP concentration is kept constant the drape stiffness increased with increasing $({NH_{4})_{2}HPO_{4}$ concentration and HMM/DPEAP weight ratio. (5) The tensile strength of the processed fabrics was lower than that of untreated fabrics, but the tensile strength retention increased with increasing DPEAP concentration.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.47-57
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• 1984

Effect on the hand value and mechanical properties of blend ratio and weight had been investigated Oil summer suits for men. Relation between the mechanical properties and the deformation in behavior was also studied. The mechanical properties which influence the hand values and total hand value had been discussed and the relation between mechanical properties, hand values and fabric count had, too. As result, the following conclusions had been obtained. 1) The values of tensile properties increased with the increase of blend ratio of wool. The values of surface properties increased according to the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 2HB(bending properties) of polyester/wool blend showed higher value than that of $100\%$ wool, but there was no change in the shearing properties according to the blend ratio. The values of stiffness, crispness and anti-drape stiffness of blend fabric showed higher values than those of $100\%$ wool fabric. The value of fullness (including softness) of blend fabric showed lower value than that of $100\%$ wool fabric. 2) The correlation between hand values and mechanical properties showed following order. in stiffness : bending properties>surface properties in crispness: surface properties>bending properties in anti-drape stiffness: bending properties>surface properties>shearing properties.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.367-372
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• 2001

Five kinds of commercial ramie and hemp fabrics were treated with cellulase under different concentrations. Samples were mercerized before enzyme treatment to investigate the effect of mercerization on cellulase enzyme treatment. Physical characteristics(weight loss, tear strength retention, wrinkle recovery, drape stiffness, dyeability) of cellulase enzyme treated and untreated samples were measured and compared. X-ray diffractions were examined to verify if there were any changes in their crystallinity of enzyme treated fabrics. Weight loss, wrinkle recovery and degree of crystallinity increased as the concentration of cellulase enzyme increased. In the meanwhile, tear strength retention and drape stiffness and dyeability decreased. Enzyme activity was more effective on mercerized samples. Particularly, there was distinct tendency to increase weight loss and flexibility.