• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.379-390
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to comparative analysis of required measurements, two measurements of back length and bust girth are used in Proportional Drafting Method (Munhwa). In case of Compromise Drafting Methods are used across chest, across back, bust length, bust width, full length in front, across shoulder and shoulder length in addition to back length and bust girth. The type of Armstrong as a Short Measure Drafting Method uses 10 measurements for the drafting the bodice. 2. While Esmod block pattern arid Armstrong's block pattern are the lightest in full width and other widths. Rasara block pattern is the most ample. In Lee, Myung-hee's block pattern and Lee, Hyung-sook's block pattern, amounts of drooping are decided $3{\sim}4cm$, but drooping amounts of other block patterns are decided corresponding to real measurements. While cap height in Esmod and Armstrong's sleeve patterns are directly measured Armhole length of the block pattern, cap height of other sleeve patterns are used armhole depth and cap height length as well as armhole length. 3. When analyzing to indirect measurements, Esmod block pattern shows the least different between full length of block pattern and that of body form. Munhwa block pattern and Kim, Hyosook's block pattern are mostly same to body form back length. However all of the block patterns are sheller than body form length. In case of Suh, Wansuk's block pattern, across back and across chest are same size, but other block patterns show difference between across back and across chest. Most block patterns' neck width in front and bach bodice are almost same. Front neck width is generally bigger than back neck width in some cases.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Precision Engineering Conference
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• 2005.06a
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• pp.965-968
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• 2005

Roll drafting operation causes variations in the linear density of bundles because the bundle flow cannot be controlled completely by roll pairs. Defects occurring in this operation bring about many problems successively in the next processes. In this paper, we attempt to analyze the draft dynamics and the linear density irregularity based on the governing equation of a bundle motion that has been suggested in our previous studies. For analyzing the dynamic characteristics of the roll drafting operation, it is indispensable to investigate a transient state in time domain before the bundle flux reaches a steady state. However, since governing equations of bundle flow consisting of continuity and motion equations turn out to be nonlinear, and coupled between variables, the solutions for a transient state cannot be obtained by an analytical method. Therefore, we use the Finite Difference Method(FDM), particularly, the FTBS(Forward-Time Backward-Space) difference method. Then, the total equations system yields to an algebraic equations system and is solved under given initial and boundary conditions in an iterative fashion. From the simulation results, we confirm that state variables show different behavior in the transient state; e.g., the velocity distribution in the flow field changes more quickly the linear density distribution. During a transient flow in a drafting zone, the output irregularity is influenced differently by the disturbances, e.g., the variation in input bundle thickness, the drafting speed, and the draft ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.15-26
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• 1987

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern drafting method which would be suitable to their physical characteristics for the fatty body of 40∼55 aged Korean women who are more than 1.5 Rohrer's Index and 90㎝ bust girth. The study was composed as follows; 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis: One hundred and thirty women were measured on 29 items. Thirty-four items including 29 measured items and 5 calcutated items were analyzed statistically. 1) Mean, standard deviation, variance, maximum, minimum, range were computed. 2) Correlation coefficients between each items were computed. 2. Development of new bodice pattern drafting method: Measurement items necessary to draft new bodice pattern were bust girth, center back waist length, shoulder width, back width, chest and neck base girth. The new pattern was examined through three wearing tests for completion. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method: The new pattern was objectively evaluated by the sensory test. The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern for the fatty body women by comparint it with the conventional patterns. The results of sensory tests of the new pattern are as follows: 1) The composite reliability coefficient is 0.7698, and the reliability of sensory test shows high. 2) According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 23 items on the questionaire, all the items showed significant differences(α 0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new pattern is better conventional pattern as the average mark of the former is 3.901 but that of latter is 2.926. The new pattern drafting method proved to be superior to the conventional one especially in the fitness at the center front neck point, shoulder point, side line, armscye depth, position of bust point, chest width line, under arm dart and the shoulder line.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.116-137
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to develop jacket patterns that could fit well for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome body shape and to present a pattern drafting method. As a research method, an educational pattern was chosen through a preliminary experiment. Fit problems of the educational pattern were derived by wearing it on a virtual model with a turtle neck syndrome body type for each neck angle. Based on the three types of experimental patterns developed by supplementing these problems, a development pattern drafting method was developed for each neck angle. Three development patterns were compared and evaluated with the educational pattern using 3D virtual fitting. Fit problems of the educational pattern included: 1) insufficient ease amounts for hip, hem, bicep, elbow, and sleeve hem circumference; 2) horizontal items could not be leveled due to insufficient back length; 3) the shoulder line went backwards; and 4) the front center line did not form a vertical line. To solve these problems, an experimental pattern was developed by increasing the insufficient ease amount, increasing the insufficient back length, and correcting the position of the shoulder line. Measurements that differed in the pattern drafting method of the three types of development patterns by neck angle were positions of back center line and back neck point, front length, and front neck width. Through appearance evaluation of the development pattern and educational pattern by neck angle, the development pattern was highly evaluated, indicating that problems of the educational pattern were improved.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.22-32
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to know the pattern of Hanbok Jegory with measuring Jegory and studying manufacturing method of the Jegory used currently. It is a purpose to find constitutional problem caused by the character of the bending somatotype and, to study the standard model of the Jegory for bending somatotyped women in old age, by comparison of this fitness for bending-somatotyped women in old age. The results obtained are as follows; 1. The kinds of measurements considered in manufacturing process are Hwajang Length, Bust girth, and the skirt length. The length of Jegory and width of Neck are also considered. 2. Manufacturers consider somatotype the most important thing when they make Jegory for women in old age. Front length, Back length and Width of the Jegory are considered secondly important. 3. The results of the comparison show that the Standard Hanbok drafting method is not suitable for drafting Jegory for bending somatotyped women in old age. 4. The suitability test for the model designed by the above methods shows that it fits in bending somatotyped women in old age better than standard drafting method. The results show the superiority of the above methods especially in the breast width, the Godae length, and the adaptedness to the body.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.99-110
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• 2022

This study attempted to develop a bodice prototype that is the basis for the production of upper body clothing for 20s plus-size women who have distinct characteristics from women with general body types. Through this, it was intended to provide basic data necessary for the development of plus-size women's clothing, which is revitalizing the market due to the increase in the obese population. Through the first evaluation of appearance and abdominal pressure, patterns such as moving the side neck, adding the amount of armhole dart, and adding the amount of sagging were modified. Through the second evaluation, corrections such as vertical side lines, reduction of the neck of the back center line, and adding the amount of armhole darts were performed. Through the third evaluation, the final pattern drafting method was developed by vertically modifying the side line and adding the amount of back armhole darts. In the case of 20s plus-size female body types, a drafting method distinguished from the general body type was required in the method of setting the side and hem due to the protrusion of the abdomen. This study can be said to be meaningful in that it proposed a bodice prototype drafting method suitable for the body type of 20s plus-size women. In the follow-up study, it is thought that the wearability should be evaluated through actual garment wearing.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.95-107
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• 2022

This study attempted to develop a bodice prototype suitable for the 20's obese male's trunk with a BMI of 25kg/m² or more, which is distinguished from the standard body type. Through this, it was intended to provide data to help the development of clothing for obese males. Patterns such as front bodice shoulder line and front sagging were modified through primary appearance and garment pressure evaluation. Through the second evaluation, corrections such as back armhole, back waistline, and front sagging were performed. Through the third evaluation, the final pattern drafting method was developed by removing the front sagging added through the second evaluation. In the case of obese male body types in their 20s, a drafting method distinguished from the standard body type was required in the method of setting the front and back waist lines, back armhole darts, and front shoulder lines due to protruding and posture of the abdomen. This study was meaningful in that it presented a bodice prototype drafting method suitable for the 20s obese males. In the follow-up study, it is thought that actual clothing experiments and studies to develop clothing patterns by applying them to obese male tops in their 20s should be conducted.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.185-192
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• 1998

The methodology of applying fabric stretch ratio in the grants pattern drafting was evaluated. The experimental fabrics employed in this study were 3 different knit fabrics with various stretch ratio in vertical or horizontal direction. The firm fitting pants pattern was modified by applying the fabric stretch ratio in vertical ana horizontal direction. The computer automatic drafting method was used for pants pattenl alteration. The suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated by the 7 clothing specialists, The results showed that fit of all experimental garments was improved in general. The garment which was constructed with the fabric having large difference between horizontal stretch ratio and vertical stretch ratio showed poor fit at crotch area. This result implies that computer aided pattern alteration is not appropriate when fabric stretch ratio is vary by the fabric directions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.12
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• pp.68-86
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• 1988

This paper is described about applied method of personal computer for clothes-patterns. The personal Computer (Fijitsu FM-$16{\beta}$) and X-Y Plotter (GRAPHTEC GP-9101 R) were used in this study. It is studied to draft of sleeve designs automartically in this paper. The Basic Language is used and the programs were main program and subroutine programs. The results are as follows; 1) The Y's system of sleeve sloper is selected in this study. 2) The co-ordinate points were indicated relative location of all necessary in drafting of sleeve designs. 3) In the variations of sleeve sloper, Puff sleeve and Raglan sleeve were selected. Programs for drafting of them were developed. 4) About the drafting of Raglan curve, it is gotten adequate curve using sprine function. 5) Clothes-Pattern are making very correctly and quickly by using computer.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.12
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• pp.177-188
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to each sensory test of the frontal view, back view, side view and silhouette Block Pattern I is the best of them in summation of the sensory tests score. Block, Pattern D and I have good shape too. However the best block Pattern D shows good score in evaluation of overall fitness and silhouette. 2. Most of block patterns, which show high scores in sensory tests, are the Compromise Method taking merits of the Proportional Method and Short Measure Method among the Pattern Drafting Methods. Box-shape patterns show low score in the sensory tests. 3. Regarding to the number of measurement, the patterns of the Compromise Method using 6-8 measurements seem to be optimal. In degree of fitness, loose fit type basic patterns are better than other patterns from a viewpoint of the total satisfaction.