• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.148-159
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to understand continuity and discontinuity of the neoclassic style in early twentieth century fashion modernism. Researching relations in fashion between eighteenth to nineteenth century and twentieth century, the theory of 'linked solution' suggested by Kubler and Broadsky has been accepted. The results of this study are as follows: In early twentieth century fashion, continuity of the neoclassic style is considered as presentation of geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body and moderation of decoration. Also simple construction to present practical purpose of the dress in honesty were continued. On the other hand, discontinuity of the style is found in the imitation of men's classic tailored suits and standardization of sizes and styles. These are considered to reflect such early twentieth century sociocultural contexts as equality of the sexes and mechanical aesthetics. Hopefully this study will contribute to the broadening of insight in fashion connecting traditions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.382-396
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the transition of glamour style expressed in modern fashion throughout the history. The glamour style in modern fashion was categorized into five periods which are Hollywood glamour(H), Feminine glamour(F), Rich glamour(R), Decadent glamour(D), and Trash glamour(T). These categories were analyzed and compared in the viewpoint of aesthetic values deduced on the previous study. As a method of analysis, literature study and case study through the publications in aesthetics, history and preceding theses were used. The results of analysis are: Ostentatious luxury was suggested by extravagance of the movie star in H, the splendid American lifestyle in F, conspicuous consumption in R, fin de siecle bad taste in D and self-assured exposure in T. Mysterious idolatry was studied as exaggerated goddesshood of the movie star in H. It was expanded to celebrities including fashion models, television actresses, pop singers and young couture designers in the other periods. Artificial sensuality was originated from the femme fatale image of the courtesan as well as the traditional femininity of Victorian era in H. It was developed through exaggerated hourglass silhouette of the wife dressing in F. But an aggressiveness in R, a hyper-sexual femme fatale in D, an independent and defiant image of the showgirl in T were observed. Playful queerness stood out clearly by the fin de siecle phenomena. Though it was embodied in sexual perversive subculture, it emerged as hi fashion by young designers in the late R and became a crucial aesthetic value throughout D and T. It is more connected with the origins of glamour which arouses sexual ambiguity, crudity, aggressiveness and death. The continuity and discontinuity of the glamour style based on the theory of 'linked solution' were also analyzed.

• The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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• v.18 no.7
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• pp.17-22
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• 1999

In this paper we propose a new mixed method of LDA and tri-tone model to predict Korean prosodic break indices(PBI) for a given utterance. PBI can be used as an important cue of syntactic discontinuity in continuous speech recognition(CSR). The model consists of three steps. At the first step, PBI was predicted with the information of syllable and pause duration through the linear discriminant analysis (LDA) method. At the second step, syllable tone information was used to estimate PBI. In this step we used vector quantization (VQ) for coding the syllable tones and PBI is estimated by tri-tone model. In the last step, two PBI predictors were integrated by a weight factor. The proposed method was tested on 200 literal style spoken sentences. The experimental results showed 72% accuracy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.115-125
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• 2006

The study on plane composition in clothing was focused mainly on woven wear earlier but its application has been reaching the knit wear. This study is confined to the utilization with geometrical linear pattern in the modern apparel. The work here intends to grasp the plane structure found in both woven wear and knit wear and, in particular, to understand the aesthetics of fashion. The modern flat patterned clothing has been affected by the oriental style or postmodernism in view of social and cultural aspect while its fabric material and expression method shows the diversity in terms of industrial and technical aspect. It can be characterized as several outstanding patterns: the geometrical pattern in structure, the linear pattern with seam line and 2-dimensional plane pattern without seam line, and the flexible silhouette integrated into one single shape with human body unlike the traditional apparel The aesthetics of fashion in modern flat patterned clothing can be divided into such category as the organically spatial change, the re-creation of tradition and the non-format framework. The organically spatial change shows the geometrical formation in clothes due to change in dimension, where the organically changing uniformity and generosity appears as the dimension progresses. The timeless without any difference of up and down, left and right, and inside and outside and the discontinuity due to limitless spatial change are also imbedded. The re-creation of tradition tells the reshaped spirits of old tradition by integrating and modifying the hereditary features in the old customed clothing into modern clothing. The modern flat patterned clothing implies the contemporaneousness or the frame through which the old and modern cultures may be shared and indicates the re-creation of the past and uniformity. The non-format framework contains the uncertainty in meaning and it doesn't have any certain standards. As both the apparel and the human body with this style aim at the open space, the numerous contingencies are realized.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.61-77
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the concept and characteristics of parody, and consider how parody was reflected in Thom Browne's collection centering on the expressive method. Thus, this study will attempt to shed new light on the creative possibility and artistic value of parody in men's fashion design. The methods are as follows. The ideas, characteristics and expressive methods that represent parody was considered by referencing various related books, papers, art critiques, etc. Based on this theoretical study, a case of Thom Browne's collection (Thom Browne menswear: 2004 S/S-2012 F/W) was observed to find types of parody, attributes and significance. Photo material was collected through websites such as www.thombrowne.com, www.style.com, etc. The type and characteristics of parody expressed in Thom Browne's collection was considered in the following aspects: imitative parody, critical parody and pastiche parody. Through such consideration, it was possible to realize the fashion designs that adapt Thom Browne's parody are very deliberate and calculative. The designs convey exaggeration, destruction of form, emphasis on discontinuity, transition into attraction, aesthetics of unfamiliarity, characteristic aspects of irrationality and contradiction. Through the study, it was possible to see Thom Browne's collection with parody adaptation shaping new creativity and broadening formative aspects in fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.44 no.6
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• pp.643-654
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• 2023

The West Philippine Basin, an oceanic basin half the size of the Philippine Sea Plate, lies in the western part of the plate and south of the Korean Peninsula on the Eurasian Plate. It subducts beneath the Eurasian Plate and the Philippine Islands bordering the Ryukyu Trench and the Philippine Trench with 25-50% of this basin already consumed. However, the history of the opening of the basin's southern region has been a topic of debate. The non-transform discontinuity formed during the seafloor spreading is similar to the transform fault boundaries normally perpendicular to mid-ocean ridge axes; however, it was created irregularly due to ridge propagations caused by variations of mantle convection attributable to magma supply changes. By analyzing high-resolution multi-beam echo-sounding data, we confirmed that the non-transform discontinuity due to the propagating rift evolved in the entire basin and that the abyssal hill strike direction changed from E-W to NNW-SSE from the fossil spreading center. In the early stage of basin extension, the Amami-Sankaku Basin was rotated 90 degrees clockwise from its current orientation, and it bordered the Palau Basin along the Mindanao Fracture Zone. The Amami-Sankaku Basin separated from the Palau Basin while the spreading of the West Philippine Basin began with a counter-clockwise rotation. This indicates that the non-transform discontinuities formed by a sudden change in magma supply due to the drift of the Philippine Sea Plate and simultaneously with the rapid changes in the spreading direction from ENE-WSW to N-S. The Palau Basin was considered to be the sub-south of the West Philippine Basin, but recent studies have shown that it extends into an independent system. Evidence from sediment layers and crustal thickness hints at the possibility of its existence before the West Philippine Basin opened, although its evolution continues to be debated. We performed a combined analysis using high-resolution multi-beam bathymetry and satellite gravity data to uncover new insights into the evolution of the West Philippine Basin. This information illuminates the complex plate interactions and provides a crucial contribution toward understanding the opening history of the basin and the Philippine Sea Plate.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.4 s.57
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• pp.550-563
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• 2005

These days, photoshop and illustrator program can make a fashion illustration express easily and speedily, And they can also express a feeling and sensitivity of fashion illustrator by a tool and effect more than a manual work's media. The purpose of this study was to analyze a visual expression and characteristics in fashion illustration using 2D graphics. The method of this study was to analyze the fashion illustration books using 2D graphics. The visual expressions in fashion illustration using 2D graphics were as follows: Fashion illustration was based on a sketch or photography, and used a composition, drawing, mapping, painting, and manual work's re-touching. Characteristics of visual expression were as follows: First, a image composition was showed discontinuity and heterogeneity of image, new context and composition, and allowance of reality. Second, image transform was showed image overlap, body transformation by image recomposition, and deformed transformation by vector drawing. Third, hyper-real was showed precise touching, mechanical and neutral image, omission of background and focus of an object's characteristic and information. Fourth, following a realistic expression was showed simplified color, shading, dominant view point of fashion illustrator by omission, and daily lift style. Fifth, following a pictorial expression was showed non-fixed and irregular line, natural painting, and drawing and painting by conventional pictorial media. In conclusion, a photoshop and illustrator in 2D graphics will serve as a new media far fashion illustration with a manual work. And they will not only intensify a capacity as a commercial role of fashion illustration but also present a positive motive for students learning a fashion illustration.

• Journal of Information Technology Applications and Management
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.59-75
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• 2021

This study aims to establish a foundation for autonomous driving on campus and communication of abundant university information in the HCI environment in a VR environment where college freshmen can freely travel around campus facilities. The purpose of this study is to develop a three-dimensional VR-style campus tour system to establish a media environment to provide abundant university information guidance services to freshmen in non-face-to-face situations. This study designed a three-dimensional virtual reality campus tour system to solve the problem of discontinuity in which VR360 filming space does not lead to space like reality, and to solve many problems of expertise in VR technology by constructing an integrated production environment of tour system. We aim to solve the problem of inefficiency, which requires a large amount of momentum in virtual space, by constructing a GUI that utilizes the motion of the field of view focus. The campus environment was designed as a three-dimensional virtual reality using a three-dimensional graphic design. In non-face-to-face situations, college freshmen freely transformed the HMD VR device, smartphone, FPS operation mode of the gyroscope sensor. The design elements of the three-dimensional virtual reality campus tour system were classified as ①Visualization of factual experiences, ②Continuity of space movement, ③Operation, automatic operation mode, ④Natural landscape animation, ⑤Animation according to wind direction, ⑥Actual space movement mode, ⑦Informatization of spatial understanding, ⑧GUI by experience environment, ⑨Text GUI by building, ⑩VR360, 3D360 Studio Environment, ⑪Three-dimensional virtual space coupling block module, ⑫3D360-3D Virtual Space Transmedia Zone, ⑬Transformable GUI(VR Device Dual Viewer-Gyro Sensor Full Viewer-FPS Operation Viewer) and an integrated production environment was established with each element. It is launched online (http://vautu.com/u1) by constructing a GUI for free driving mode and college information screens to adapt to college life for freshmen, and designing an environment that can be used simultaneously by current media such as PCs, Android, and iPads. Therefore, it conducted user research, held a development presentation, a forum on excellence in university innovation support projects, and applied it as a system on the website of a particular university. College freshmen will be able to experience university information directly from the web and app to the virtual reality campus environment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.574-591
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• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.

• Journal of Popular Narrative
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.175-209
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• 2020

This paper examines how the cinematic representation of the Japanese military "comfort women" stimulates 'imagination' in the realm of everyday life and in the memory of the masses, creating a common awareness and affect. The history of the Japanese military "comfort women" was hidden for a long time, and it was not until the 1990s that it entered the field of public recognition. Such a transition can be attributed to the external and internal chronopolitics that made possible the testimony of the victims and the discourse of the "comfort women" issue. It shows the peculiar status of the comfort women history as 'politics of time'. In the same vein, the cinematic representations of the Japanese military "comfort women" can be found in similar chronopolitics. The 'comfort women' films have shown the dual time frame of the continuity and discontinuity of the 'silence'. In Korean film history, the chronotope of the reproduction of "comfort women" can be divided into four phases: 1) the fictional representations of "comfort women" before the 1990s 2) documentaries in the late 1990s as the work of testimony and history writing, 3) melodramatic transformation in the feature films in the 2000s, and 4) the diffusion of media and categories. The purpose of this article is to focus on the first phase and the third phase in which the issue of 'comfort women' is represented in the category of popular fiction films. While the "comfort women" representations before 1990 were strictly adhering to the framework of commercial movies and pursued the sexual exploitation of "comfort women" history, the recent films since the 2000s are experimenting with various attempts in the style of popular imagination. Especially, the emergence of 'comfort women' feature films in the 2000s, such as Spirit's Homecoming, I Can Speak, and Herstory, raise various questions as to whether we are "properly" aware of issues and how to remember and present the "cultural memory" of comfort women. Also, focusing on the cinematic representation strategies of the 2000s "comfort women", this article discusses the popular politics of melodrama, the representation of victims and violence, and the feature of 'comfort women' as meta-memory. As a melodramatic imagination and meta-memory for the historical trauma, the "comfort women" drama shows the historical, political, and aesthetic gateways to which the "comfort women" problem must pass. As we have seen in recent fiction films, the issue of "comfort women" goes beyond transnational relations between Korea and Japan; it demands a postcolonial task to dismantle the old colonial structure and explores a transnational project in which women's movements and human rights movements are linked internationally.