• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1301-1311
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• 2006

This study rearranged a concept of Friday wear considered as casual wear by searching social background through analysis of literature study and photo materials and classifying by characteristics of casual wear. It investigated growing changes of casual wear and the progress of changes casual brands through a market survey based on departments in Seoul. And then, it examined characteristics of a design and the critical point of easy casual selecting GIORDANO, TBJ and NII of three easy casual brands. Conclusions of the study are as follows: Firstly, present casual wear showed subdivision of casual wear as abundant grouping vocabularies appeared contrary to the past. Secondly, easy casual wear has continuously increased by results of investigating departments in Seoul on the progress of changing easy casual wear brand including the concept of Friday wear. Thirdly, if a main target sets the early 20s, women workers in their 20's and 30's are likely to be reluctant to wear it according to results of investigating designs and characteristics based on GIORDANO, TBJ and NII of existing three easy casual brands through the market survey. Also, it was verified that most of these brands have no a luxurious image because they adhere to middle-low price. Fourthly, it improved problems of easy casual through developing designs of easy casual wear. Easy casual wear supplementing weak these points of easy casual wear was evaluated as suitable clothes for workers to wear in on and off their own time in Friday.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.139-161
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• 2002

This study investigates the characteristics of Nordic sweaters works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) development of Nordic sweaters, 2) the characteristics of Nordic sweaters industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns, 4) the symbolic meaning of the designs in the Nordic sweaters and patterns. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. It was also developed in Scandinavian regions which lead the fashion in modern days. Scandinavian knitting techniques have been diffused into the east coast of England and Northern Europe by Vikings. 2. Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. 1) Norway ; Simple and geometric Norwegian patterns are classified into three groups of motifs: (a) the motifs of cross, diamond, X, and swastika (equation omitted). (b) the motifs of human figures, animals and birds, (c) floral motifs (especially eight-petal roses). Their use of color is also simple, and is limited to more than two colors. (2) Sweden ; Swedish patterns are colorful and geometric. They are characterized by features such as brocade, complex embroidery, and contrast of red and black colors. They also show Guernsey patterns. Initials and production years were knitted in sweaters which have different patterns in their trunks and sleeves. 3) Denmark ; The Danish pattern is the purl stitch knitted against the stockinette stitch. The technique is used to copy woven damask motifs. The patterns are seen most clearly when they are knit with smooth yarn. The Faeroe sweaters are the representative work of Danish knitting. Faeroe knitting, incorporates stranded pattern and is knit in the round, either with circular needles. 4) Finland ; Finnish patterns are similar to Norwegian patterns. Finnish knitted work show very colorful, variety and free-flowing geometric patterns. 5) Iceland ; Icelandic knitting shows original ribbon pattern. Lope sweater is the representative work. 3. The traditional knitting patterns not only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns. In short, the knitted work in the Nordic sweaters served the function of admiring the beauty of nature and symbolizing various meanings. The unique designs and colors of the knitted work reflected the characteristics of the culture those works belonged to. This study also turns our attention to the issue of how the traditional colors and designs of the knitted work can contribute to the development of modern designs, and by doing so, if makes us realize the importance of knitted works in modern society.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.101-113
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• 2016

This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1430-1440
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• 2009

This study is on the abstract expressionist techniques among the art activities variously expressed in modern fashion. Its significance lies in making fashion artistic through the combination of fashion and art in contributing to the development of creative fashion culture. In terms of method, documents are used to characterize the concept of abstract expressionism, the works of representative artists, and the panting techniques in relation to modem art based on existing literature. Fashion-related anthology, domestic, and foreign fashion magazines were used to analyze the abstract expressionism applied to modern fashion since 2000. According to the findings, the abstract expressionism applied to modern fashion showed artistic expressions with the abstract beauty by chance, using only the images or techniques similar to those in abstract expressionism. Expressionist works had abstract and dynamic images, as they were given a third dimension through the process of being worn on the human body. Second, details or decorative factors were excluded to ensure the maximum space for expression, modem images were displayed using the simple forms such as silhouettes (spacious or dense) and the beauty of harmony was shown that had beauty emphasized by the expression effects of textile design, the division of space, and the composition of colors. Third, the action painting techniques in modern fashion were used for textile designs printed on the surface of clothes, and the dynamic character of the design was shown by the duplication and juxtaposition of stains created by chance. The color field abstract techniques were shown through printing, texture, and dying, in addition the intense and pure abstract images were displayed by treating clothes like large screens.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.933-941
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• 2007

Nowadays the numbers of the disabled and elderly have been increasing, and the development of adaptive clothing for these people is in demand. The purpose of this study was to give ideas and solutions for the special needs clothing design. The knowledge of medical situation of the individuals with special needs has been examined and factors affecting adaptive clothing were suggested. Twenty-one web sites were investigated and the most practical, functional, fashionable adaptive clothes were suggested by items. Construction and location of openings, number and type of fastenings, and design of garments for comfort and ease of movement were carefully considered in these clothes. Better appearance through improvement of clothing will help these people to believe that they have worth in the sight of others and in their own view of themselves. Disabled and elderly can obtain the quality of life, maintain the dignity, and make the access to the world a little bit easier by solving the particular clothing problems with all these convenient as well fashionable adaptive clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.1-17
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• 2020

The Peking Opera is one of the most representative cultural aspects of China. It includes China's traditional specialties, such as stage performance, stage background, and costumes. The purpose of this study is to investigate the characters and the costume characteristics of the Peking Opera to present fashion design. This research is meaningful for spreading the Peking Opera to the world by applying China's traditional costumes to fashion design. Based on the cultural background of the Peking Opera and the analysis of the opera costume, four sets of women's clothes were made by using the traditional Chinese elements. The conclusions are as follows. First, traditional features such as patterns, colors, and styles from Peking Opera costumes were used in fashion design. The colors and patterns use Chinese traditional aesthetics to carry out contemporary fashion design and apply creative materials. Second, the neoprene used to create the items is a material suitable for the modern design of the traditional Peking Opera costumes. Neoprene has good elasticity and can be cut and sewn in a variety of ways. It can also satisfy the three-dimensional atmosphere and rich morphological changes found in Peking Opera costumes. In addition, a combination of thin chiffon and mesh materials is also suitable for the development of modern designs. Finally, in order to show the effects of traditional works, the patterns were finished by hand-painting. The hand-painted works were then scanned and printed on the material by the digital printing techniques. At the conclusion, the traditional features and feelings of the contemporary designs were presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.113-127
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• 2008

Artificial lights have effected the changes of art and fashion concepts as well as human life since the invention of electric light bulb in late 19th century. Artist and designer have had more interested in these artificial lights as the development of digital technology and the change of millennium and they have tried to apply the lights into their works. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of contemporary fashion design using artificial light as a medium. Artificial light for fashion design means the light using luminescent material like phosphorescent and fluorescent materials or in combination with electroluminescent digital technology or the light that can be perceived as images when light projects from media using a light projector or other digital equipment. Fashion design using this light type can change colors or form temporarily and it can playa role as a gadget for hm or as equipment to provide information much as a computer monitor does. And designer can create virtual patterns on the surface of clothes, or virtual fashion like a 3-dimensional holography in empty space. In these fashion designs, the virtual image of light is substituted for physical formative elements in fashion, and the viewer can experience an ambiguity between reality and virtuality. The results of the study were as follow; The formative characteristics of those fashion designs were identified as visibility, indeterminacy, integration and virtuality. And they reflected the internal meanings; the persue of protection and safety, the search for experiment and innovation, the will for interaction and communication and the desire for the deviation and fun.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.514-522
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• 2013

This study reviews the principles for the techniques of Impressionist paintings as well as analyzed contemporary fashion designs with a focus on a motif-building technique based on the laws of a screen equivalent as a visual formative approach. We provide design principles based on fashion design painting techniques. Previous research on the laws of the screen equivalent of Impressionist paintings were studied and a qualitative analysis was conducted on fashion design cases from 2011, 2012 S/S and F/W collections. The analysis resulted in the following outcomes. First, the development of new motifs were found directly correlated to the creativity of design if it was a motif-building design. Second, in the selected fashion design cases, cutting lines and details were covered by motifs and their shapes collapsed in regards to overall visual uniformity so that specific details were hard to identify. Third, clothing shapes are recognized the changing colors of motifs and not through construction pattern lines; therefore, the expressions of diverse visual forms were available without being disturbed by construction pattern lines. This is deemed equivalent to an Impressionist painting style that depicts shapes with colors instead of lines. Lastly, the cases covered in this study have created new visual aspects that replace the stereoscopic spatial depth of clothes with a 'sensuous surface'. The pleasures derived from the sensuous surface are deemed equivalent to the visual pleasures created by Impressionist paintings.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.19-28
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• 2020

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, 'dress' (54.3%) was the highest, followed by 'shirts/blouse' (27.5%), 'jacket/coat' (12.5%), and 'padded coat/jacket' (5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the 'dress' category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in 'shirts/blouse', 'jacket/coat' and 'padded coat/jacket', respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in 'dress' or 'shirts/blouse' than in a 'padded coat/jacket'. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to find out more usages in today's fashion industry where various designs and changes of production required. And this research will also suggest new products and new directions to enhance the efficiency of product planning and production in knit industry using SDS-ONE program. Ethiopia in East Africa, knit already has been used as a school uniform. There is a big difference in temperature spread due to. Knit is a proper item to initiate the textile industries of underdeveloped countries. So this research can develop knit industry and lead the trend of introducing fashion in school uniforms. In this research, we use Paint of SDS-ONE to transform the patterned item into color jacquard, and show it on the designed clothes using simulation. It is shown that body painting pattern is suitable conditions for knit jacquard and simplified pattern can be applied as an excellent knit. And it is discovered the simulation feature of SDS-ONE program has a high efficiency and can be used effectively in African textile industry the future mass production base; SDS-ONE simulation can show various patterns and colors with constrained kinds of threads. Since the body painting designs can be applied in various fields, and from women's wear to men's wear, without limitation, we can take advantage of the broad.