• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.100-113
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• 2018

From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Design Studies Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.84.2-84
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• 2001

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.972-980
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• 2009

This study was aimed to develop ume flower image into a competitive fashion culture product image by reinterpreting the image in modern terms, manufacturing patterns and applying them to various items. In terms of method, ume flower petal was used as a motive and developed into a pattern, using Adobe Illustrator 10, a computer design program. Based on the symbolic image and realist form of ume flower, three new basic motives of new figurative image were set using form omission, simplification, overlapping, repetition and graphic elements. Each motive developed transformed patterns through the change, transformation, combination of colors. The repetitive unit of each motive set expressed geometrical patterns and combination of flower patterns using pattern repetition and $45^{\circ}$ repetition technique in combination with the check arrangement using quadrangle, and set the direction of design that would fit for each item of fashion culture products. Also, consistency and practicality were sought in the goods planning composition of each item by applying motive pattern results to the fashion culture goods, such as neckties, scarves, T-shirts that can be consumed in everyday life. It seems that more creative culture goods including ume flowers will be developed by seeing our own cultural elements as well as flower patterns like ume flower with modern trends.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.112-120
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop Andongpo apparel pattern design connected with the Apparel CAD system. It includes pattern making, grading, marking program. In this study, it will be able to make apparel pattern quickly and accurately by using Apparel CAD system. The results were as following : Computerization of the pattern making process is expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in apparel pattern making for narrow and expensive Andongpo. ESMOD pattern making method was selected as basic pattern. Tailored jacket patterns were developed for Andongpo. Refer to and . The jacket patterns developed is automatically depicted by inputting consumer's body size. Tailored jacket patterns for Andongpo were marked by using marking program in Apparel CAD system. The efficiency of marking appeared of 70% or more in Andongpo jacket patterns. This results is showed it has an effect on narrow and expensive Andongpo. 3tailored jacket patterns will be able to make a simulation by 3D Apparel CAD system. The results of this study is expected to provide higher consumer's satisfaction and internet brand launching. In addition, encouraging majority of the young to participate in using CAD program for Andongpo is regarded as beneficial for the reinforcement of competitiveness of traditional clothing business.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.420-431
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• 2019

This paper evaluates the potential of dynamic graphical patterns in future-driven fashion design using computer graphics that enables changes to the visual appearance of a textile for aesthetic, expressive or communicative purposes. In particular, it focuses on experimenting with the possibility of creating digitalized dynamic fashion garments that are illustrated digitally using motion graphics developed collaboratively in a virtual space. Three objectives were formed and addressed. First, a dynamic graphical pattern was defined that also investigated the cases of tangible and virtual dynamic patterns in textiles and garments to identify current situations and future prospects in terms of functional techniques and expressive effects. Ten digital fashion illustrations were then created in collaboration with a group of graphic designers and motion artists to visualize dynamic graphical patterns changing over time. Four types of dynamic fashion illustrations were also introduced in their methodological and expressive aspects. Last, some findings resulted from digital works that led to implications for future studies on tangible dynamic fashion designs. This study proposed that computer graphics and digital imaging technologies integrated into a virtual fashion that creates eye-catching and futuristic dynamic fashion designs that can customize colors and patterns according to the desires of wearers or users.

• Steel and Composite Structures
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

Experiments have been carried out on six composite and two plain steel plate girders under shear loading to understand the elastic and inelastic behaviour of such girders. The failure mechanism assumed and used to develop design equations is normally based on the failure patterns observed in the experiments. Therefore, different types of cracks and failure patterns observed in the experiments are reviewed briefly first. Based on the observed failure patterns, a design method to predict the ultimate shear capacity of composite plate girders is proposed in this paper. The values of ultimate shear capacity obtained using the proposed design method are compared with the corresponding experimental values and it is found that the proposed method is able to predict the shear capacity accurately.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.242-251
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• 2009

Traditional patterns of Korea vary greatly and have excellent value in terms of artistic merit. Nevertheless because there are not enough the research and development of them, traditional patterns of Korea are not yet recognized in internationally aesthetic value. Therefore the development of designs modernizing traditional patterns of Korea is urgently needed. In this study, I chose Four gracious plants as the subject materials of textile design development. Before everything I examined data of Four gracious plants expressed on Blue and white porcelain. And I chose data that are suitable to express modern image among them. I set my face to develop the textile design of Korean images by adding modern scenes with them. Also, I were trying to make fashion products like muffler and tie by using techniques such as burn out, crayon dying and spray dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.36 no.7
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• pp.97-110
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to examine the use and purchase patterns, design and satisfaction degree, and desired performance of boardsailing suits. The subjects were 266 boardsailing athletes and lovers. The results were as follows; (1) The demand of boardsailing suits for spring and autumn was larger than that for the other seasons. (2) The order of influencing power in purchasing boardsailing suits was fitness, textile material, design, color, cost, and brand. (3) Preference of design was one piece style and preference of pattern was character pattern. Additionally, the study on Korean patterns was demanded for international games like Olympics. (4) The order of satisfaction degree of currently used boardsailing suits was activity, size, design, material, sewing, color, pattern, and ease of wearing and taking off. (5) For the performance of boardsailing suits materials, the estimated values of absorbency, water repellency, dye fastness, biological resistance, weight, handle, air permeability, durability, and elasticity were much lower than the importance values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.67-81
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• 2009

Body shape of a child in elementary school is distinguished by physical differences in the form of low weight, normal weight and obesity, which are influenced by various periodic environments. In particular, there are hardly any patterns for obese children in elementary school to choose. To this end, the purpose of this study is to supplement the problems with the production lines of the companies for children's patterns as well as an analysis on the physical characteristics of obese children and to suggest the patterns appropriate to obese children. This study employed obese children from the 3rd- to 5th-grade elementary school students whose number has been rapidly increasing and conducted a questionnaire regarding the draft of the patterns for obese children on their mothers and the makers of children's clothing. Based on the results, the study compared and analyzed ordinary children's patterns to the patterns in question by suggesting a dimension system for Korean obese children. The results are as follows. The obesity rate of the children in elementary school has been grown in significant numbers every year, whereas obese children's sense of self-identity and degree of satisfaction with their patterns appeared to be much lower than other ordinary children in the peer group; also, the satisfaction level their mothers with their children's patterns appeared to be low. In order to verify the degree of the children's satisfaction with their patterns, the study suggested a dimension system for the obese children and displayed appropriateness by comparing the children patterns from ordinary companies and the patterns in question.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.22-29
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• 2008

In this study, it is investigated the types and the compounding method of flower patterns and the uses of flower patterned fabrics in Chosun Dynasty. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing during 16-17th century. Our ancestors had used the various flower patterns based on Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism onto the fabrics. The flower patterns on the fabrics were expressed with the other patterns such as treasure patterns, letter patterns or bird patterns. And the flower patterns symbolized the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. In the order of the percentage, the types of the flower patterns were shown Lotus(27.31%), Arabesque(26.85%), Japanese apricot(14.81%), Peony(8.79%), Flowering plants(6.94%), Chrysanthemum(6.01%), Pomegranate(2.31%) patterns and so on. Especially the Lotus pattern was shown up most frequently. That of shape was designed as blooming(開花), full bloom(滿開) and the side of flower(側面). By the compounding method, the compound types mixed with the other patterns were used much more than the individual types composed by its own pattern. The flower patterns were used a lot in Jeogori(Jacket) regardless of the ganders and in men's Po(coat) including Cheollik(天翼), Dappo(胡), Jeonbok(戰服), Dahnryoung(團領), etc. Also contrary to these days, the flower patterned fabrics had come out in the shrouds. Judging from these facts, our ancestors wished that the meaning of the immortal life was included in the flower pattern.