• Ocean Systems Engineering
• /
• 제12권4호
• /
• pp.439-459
• /
• 2022

This paper describes experimental studies of impact pressure generated by breaking regular waves in shallow water on a vertical cylinder. Experimental work was carried out in a shallow water flume using a 1:30 - scale model of a vertical rigid circular hollow cylinder with a diameter 0.2 m. This represents a monopile for shallow water offshore wind turbines, subjected to depth induced breaking regular waves of frequencies of 0.8 Hz. The experimental setup included a 1 in 10 sloping bed followed by horizontal bed with a constant 0.8 m water depth. To determine the breaking characteristics, plunging breaking waves were generated. Free surface elevations were recorded at different locations between the wave paddle to the cylinder. Wave impact pressures on the cylinder at a number of elevations along its height were measured under breaking regular waves. The depth-induced wave breaking characteristics, impact pressures, and wave run-up during impact for various cylinder locations are presented and discussed.

• 한국항해항만학회지
• /
• 제28권7호
• /
• pp.619-627
• /
• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Ulsan Harbor and Ulsan New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Ulsan Bay. We also considered the increase of water depth at the entrance channel by dredging work up to 15 meters depth in order to see the dredging effect. Among several model analyses, the nonlinear and breaking wave conditions are showed the most applicable results. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macro scale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
• /
• 제21권1호
• /
• pp.39-44
• /
• 2009

쇄파대 파랑모의의 정확도를 높이기위해 타원형 완경사방정식에 Shuto의 경험식에 근거한 비선형 천수효과를 도입하였고 쇄파구조를 추가하였다. 천수 실험을 통해 상대수심과 심해 파형경사에 따른 천수계수의 변화를 확인한 결과 Shuto의 비선형 천수식과 잘 일치하였다. 쇄파실험에서 비선형 천수효과로 인해 선형모형에 비해 상승된 파고 분포를 확인할 수 있었고 실험치와 잘 일치하였다. 쇄파구조는 1/10 경사지형에서는 실험치와 잘 일치하였지만 1/20 경사지형에서는 과도한 에너지 감쇄를 보여주었다.

• 물과 미래
• /
• 제27권2호
• /
• pp.73-83
• /
• 1994

확산현상, 표사유동 및 인간의 여러 활동이 실제 연안해역에서 일어나므로 연안해역 해수운동의 물리적 특성을 파악하고 해석하는 것은 중요한 의미를 지닌다. 본 연구에서는 연안해역에서의 파랑변형과 평균해수위 변동 그리고 연안유속 분포양상에 대해 여러 인자들이 미치는 영향을 2차원 유한차분 모형(ADI, Up-wind)을 이용하여 분석하였다. 계산결과로는 수치모형을 해저경사가 일정한 2차원 지형에 적용하여 해저경사, 입사파고, 파향각, 파주기, 마찰계수 및 수평확산계수가 연안해역 특히 쇄파대내에서 파랑변형, 평균해수위 변동 및 연안유속 분포에 미치는 영향을 분석하였다.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
• /
• 제13권1호
• /
• pp.1-8
• /
• 2001

파랑으로 인해 발생되는 흐름은 연안에서 질량수송의 일련의 과정을 야기시키므로 연안유역의 관리에 파랑과 흐름의 상호작용에 대한 정확한 이해가 요구된다. 본 논문은 적응가능한 사면 구조 격자에 근간을 둔 파랑장과 흐름장을 혼합한 수치모델을 기술하였다. 사용한 모델은 쇄파, 천수, 굴절, 회절, 파랑과 흐름의 상호작용, 평균해면의 저하와 상승, 혼합 과정, 바닥 마찰 효과 그리고 해안선에 접한 운동 등을 해석할 수 있다. 주기와 수심으로 평균한 지배 방정식은 단계적으로 엇갈린 사면구조 격자에 적응 가능한 Adam-Bashforth 2차 유한 차분 기법으로 양해적으로 모델화 되었다. 본 모델로부터의 결과는 평면 해변에서 경사 입사파에 의해 발생된 연안류의 실험치와 타당한 일치를 보였다.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
• /
• 제6권2호
• /
• pp.161-189
• /
• 2016

This paper provides a practical stochastic method by which the maximum equilibrium scour depth around a vertical pile exposed to random waves plus a current on mild slopes can be derived. The approach is based on assuming the waves to be a stationary narrow-band random process, adopting the Battjes and Groenendijk (2000) wave height distribution for mild slopes including the effect of breaking waves, and using the empirical formulas for the scour depth on the horizontal seabed by Sumer and Fredsøe (2002). The present approach is valid for wave-dominant flow conditions. Results for random waves alone and random wave plus currents have been presented and discussed by varying the seabed slope and water depth. An approximate method is also proposed, and comparisons are made with the present stochastic method. For random waves alone it appears that the approximate method can replace the stochastic method, whereas the stochastic method is required for random waves plus currents. Tentative approaches to related random wave-induced scour cases on mild slopes are also suggested.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
• /
• 제7권3호
• /
• pp.275-298
• /
• 2017

This paper provides a practical stochastic method by which the maximum equilibrium scour depth below a pipeline exposed to random waves plus a current on mild slopes can be derived. The approach is based on assuming the waves to be a stationary narrow-band random process, adopting the Battjes and Groenendijk (2000) wave height distribution for mild slopes including the effect of breaking waves, and using the empirical formulas for the scour depth on the horizontal seabed by Sumer and Fredsøe (1996). The present approach is valid for wave-dominant flow conditions. Results for random waves alone and random wave plus currents have been presented and discussed by varying the seabed slope and water depth. An approximate method is also proposed, and comparisons are made with the present stochastic method. For random waves alone it appears that the approximate method can replace the stochastic method, whereas the stochastic method is required for random waves plus currents. Tentative approaches to related random wave-induced scour cases for random waves alone are also suggested.

• 한국해양공학회지
• /
• 제23권2호
• /
• pp.28-36
• /
• 2009

Many researches have been done to define the physical parameters for the wave generation and transformation over a coastal region. However, most of these have been limited to the application of particular conditions, as they are generally too empirical. To yield more reasonable wave estimation using a spectral wave model, it is important to understand how they work for the wave estimation. This study involved a comprehensive sensitivity test against the spectral resolution and the physical source/sink terms of the spectral wave model using SWAN and TOMAWAC, which have the same physical background with several different empirical/theoretical formulations. The tests were conducted for the East Anglian coast, UK, which is characterized by a complex bathymetry due to several shoals and offshore sandbanks. For the quantitative and qualitative evaluation of the models' performance with different input conditions, the wave elements and spectrums predicted at representative sites the East Anglia coast were compared/analyzed. The spectral resolution had no significant effect on the model results, but the lowest resolution on the frequency and direction induced underestimations of the wave height and period. The bottom friction and depth-induced breaking terms produced relatively high variations in the wave prediction, depending on which formulation was applied. The terms for the quadruplet and whitecapping had little effect on the wave estimation, whereas the triads tended to predict shorter and higher waves by energy transferring to higher frequencies.

• 한국항해항만학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국항해항만학회 2004년도 Asia Navigation Conference
• /
• pp.217-225
• /
• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Ulsan Harbor and Ulsan New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Ulsan Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macro scale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• 한국항해항만학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국항해항만학회 2003년도 춘계공동학술대회논문집
• /
• pp.157-164
• /
• 2003

복잡한 수심을 가진 연안해역에서 조석, 바람과 파에 의해 발생된 흐름의 영향까지를 고려한 파랑모델의 도입은 대부분의 해안공학 설계나 방재 문제에 매우 중요한 요소이다. 근해역에서 수심변화에 의한 굴절 및 천수효과, 흐름에 의해 유발되는 굴절효과, 파형경사에 따른 쇄파, 회절, 바람에 의한 파의 성장, 파랑 상호간의 간섭 및 에너지 재분포 등을 다를 수 있다는 점에서 정상상태 스펙트럼 모델의 현장 적용은 지금까지 여러 모델이 다루지 못한 부분을 해소하게 될 것이다. 본 연구에서는 부만 신항만 건설이 이루어지고 있는 가덕인접의 및은 수역에 대해 파랑의 변환과정을 보다 합리적으로 해석하기 위해 스펙트럼 모델을 적용하고 기존의 모델 결과와 비교 분석하는 것을 골자로 하고 있다. 이러한 시도가 가까운 장래에 항만설계 및 방재시스템 분야에서 보다 안전하고 널리 스펙트럼 모델을 적용하게 하는 계기가 되도록 의도하였다.