• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.40-47
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• 2003

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of Tencel denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis. The subjective hand and the preference of Tencel denim fabrics were evaluated using the developed scale. The factors affecting consumers taste for Tencel denim fabrics were analyzed by statistics using SAS program. Also, the effects of cellulase treatment on the properties of Tencel denim fabrics were evaluated by the subjective hand measurements. The results are as follows: As the weight loss increased. fabrics were evaluated as finer, smoother, softer, warmer, more refined (surface properties), more compact and weaker (durability), more flexible, flossier, lighter, softer, thinner (sense of weight), more elastic, and less wrinkly (shape recovery). Fabrics were evaluated to have the dry touch regardless to the rate of weight loss (moisture properties). Overall hand preference of Tencel denim fabrics was in the side of not preferred. Hand of Tencel fabrics seems not to appeal to Korean people. Color preferences were not significantly different among five groups. The correlations between subjective hand and preference showed that fine, smooth, flexible, warm, refined, loose, soft, dry touches were preferred in Tencel denim fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.115-123
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• 2001

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of cotton fabrics by enzymatic hydrolysis. The subjective hand and preference of denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumers taste for denim fabrics were analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of enzymatic hydrolysis on the properties of cotton fabrics were also evaluated by subjective hand measurements. The results are as follow; As the weight loss increased, evaluators thought that fabrics become finer, smoother, softer, warmer and more refined, and the sense of durability is sleeker and weaker, and the sense of weight is more flexible, flossier, lighter, softer, thinner. They didnt catch the change of moisture related properties according to the rate of weight loss. They also thought fabrics became more elastic, and less wrinklier as the weight loss increased. As the weight loss increased, the fabric was more preferred. The limited weight loss which changes the preference from \"dislike\" to \"like\" was 12.87%. The most preferred fabric was that with 12.87% of weight loss. It is supposed that the preference of fabric was related to the terms such as \"sum-se-ha-da\"(섬세하다), \"mai-ku-rup-da\"(매끄럽다), \"yoo-yon-ha-da\"(유연하다), \"too-bak-ji-an-da\"(투박하지 않다), \"chom-chom-ha-da\"(촘촘하다), \"gil-ki-da\"(질기다), \"kun-juk-goe-ri-ji-an-da\"(끈적거리지 않다), \"ku-kim-i-ka-ji-an-nun-da\"(구김이 가지 않는다).

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.149-162
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to suggest various directions of living hanbok and proposed the living hanbok design that integrated the tradition and the contemporary, as well as the past and present with denim material that represents the youth cultureby while using the motif of Korean Jogakbo. For the research method, the data on living hanbok, denim, and Jogakbo were surveyed to develop and produce a living hanbok design. The development of a living hanbok design emphasized the meaning of longing for an accumulation of good fortune, by using the concept of 'wishing for fortune' including the symbolic images of denim and Jogakbo. The production results of this study are as follows. First, the Jogakbo motif consisted of patterns yearning for harmony, great fortune, longevity, and many children, and the living hanbok design integrated with the denim material symbolized the convergence of the past and present and the harmony of eastern and western cultures. The study could verify that the living hanbok design was recreated in a contemporary sense to be used everyday by expressing contemporary senses in a traditional image. Second, leftover fabric pieces and recycled materials that can be abandoned by the material market were used for denim. This study could also develop the living hanbok design as a sustainable design through upcycling, an important social trend, puting an emphasis on carrying out socio-ethical responsibilities. Third, denim Jogakbo work, which is connected by small pieces of denim material, used to be a difficult and labor intensive handicraft, but it could be proposed as a new high value-added fashion and generate contemporary living hanbok with a new image.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.909-918
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• 1999

The indigo-dyed blue denim garments are favored not only by young people but also by almost everyone of life, In the early years they were casually worn on most occasions but became universal recently. Such denim garments are treated with various process to give it optimal softness and color contrast of blue and white. The processess can generate photoyellowing and thus the yellowing may damage their appearance and quality. So this study is to find the solutions to reduce the photoyellowing problem. For this prupose sample denim were treated with cellulase fluorescent brightener UV absorbent etc. The results were as follows; The yellowing would be more accelerated by fluorescent brightening. Since the yellowing was reduced by 90% In particular the application of the UV absorbent before using of the fluorescent brightener was most effective. The optimal concentration was 0.5% (o.w.f) and the benzophenone compounds were found most effective for the indigo denim. And reduction effect of yellowing by UV absorbent was lowered with repeated laundering but metal compound treatment on fabric made a removal of UV absorbent by laundering prevented.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제38권10호
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• pp.133-142
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• 2000

The subjective hand and preference of enzyme hydrolyzed denim fabrics were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumer's taste for polyester fabrics were analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of alkaline hydrolysis on the properties of polyester fabrics were evaluated by subjective and objective hand measurements. The lower the age of evaluators, the more sensitive their feeling. As the age decreased, evaluators felt fabrics become flossy and soft surface property is smooth, flexible, warm, refined. They didn't catch the sense of durability, moisture related property and sense of shape recovery. The lower the age, the fabric was more preferred. Women were more sensitive and consistent than men.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.374-387
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop up-cycling fashion design methods centered on discarded denim material for the study of original up-cycling design methods. Up-cycling fashion design work was developed using digital clothing technology. This is a recent hot topic among sustainable fashion design methods. Up-cycling fashion design expression methods (categorized as dismantlement, collages, dépaysement, grafting, weaving, and tearing) were centered on design methods. These methods create various three-dimensional modeling effects in planar forms, whereby five pieces can be applied to the fabric and digitally produced. The results are as follows: First, the use of discarded denim fabric for the development of up-cycling fashion design pieces enabled the recycling of existing resources, provided solutions to environmental pollution problems, and provided expansion opportunities for design processes for sustainable fashion products that expand the design value of denim products and their utility. Second, new eco-friendly fashion designs that attempt to achieve diversity in modern fashion trends could be presented through formative contemporary fashion produced by up-cycling work products. Third, up-cycling fashion design work is expected to provide opportunities for eco-friendly fashion design methods. This will expand the value of sustainable fashion design by recycling simple waste materials through the use of three-dimensional digital clothing technology and further through the presentation of expanded life cycles that extend product planning, production, and life cycles.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.144-151
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• 2002

The assessment of hand of the denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis will be discussed in this study. The subjective hand and the preference of the denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis were evaluated using the developed scale(Part I). The factors affecting consumer's taste for denim fabrics were analyzed by statistics using SAS program. Also, the enzymatic of hydrolysis on the properties of denim fabrics were evaluated by subjective hand measurements. The results are as follows; Regarding the surface properties and the weight, Tencel was evaluated to be the finest, the smoothest, the most flexible, the warmest, the most refined, the sleekest, the flossiest, the lightest the softest, and the thinnest among the four kinds of fabrics. The other fabrics in the order of cotton/Tencel, cotton, cotton/PP were evaluated to qualify the listed touches. Tencel was evaluated to be the loosest and the weakest among the four kinds of denim. Cotton was evaluated to have the driest touch. In addition, the fabrics were evaluated to be more elastic and less wrinkly in the order of Tencel > cotton > cotton/Tencel > cotton/ PP. For the hand preference, the fabrics were ranked in the order of Tencel, cotton, cotton/Tencel, cotton/PP, where tencel is the moat preferred. Cotton/Tencel and cotton/PP showed negative values in the hand and the color preference, meaning that the evaluators disliked their touches. Hand preference of enzyme hydrolyzed cotton/Tencel and cotton/PP denims do not seem to appeal to Korean people.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.702-712
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to understand the current trend with regard to the material of jeans and the making method of jeans pattern and the characteristics of washing processing through the overall production status of jeans in casual brands and to offer the basic data for producing the high efficient jeans. The results were as follows. According to the survey of production status of jeans in casual brands, the fabric mixture was highest in the order of non-stretch denim 100% cotton, stretch denim cotton/spandex mix and denim with $1{\sim}2%$ weft direction spandex mix. The most frequently used processing method for denim was in the order of normal finishing, mercerization finishing, soft finishing and pigment finishing. The most frequently used method of washing finishing for jeans was in the order of forming by embossing washing, bio stone washing, normal washing, bio washing, and bio stone bleach washing. The average shrinkage was higher on waist circumference and pants length of warp direction rather than hips circumference, thigh circumference, hem circumference of weft direction.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.694-707
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• 2017

This study analyzes the characteristics of clothes worn by the Zhuang in order to produce new fashion designs, and to propose diverse new directions in fashion design. Research was conducted using a bibliographic survey on the cultural background, characteristics, and relevant techniques of the Zhuang costume and that of minority races in China. This study deploys four styles of design for women's wear. With the inspiration of the traditional Zhuang costume, black and blue were the colors mainly used for the Zhuang people and the material was mostly denim. Denim blends in well for the contemporary facilitation of the Zhuang costume, which is known for knitting technique, fur and hemp fabric as patchwork, and embroidery works. It is appropriate to express the joyful and happy mind of Zhuang people with extraordinary colors, exaggerated silhouettes, and various decorations. Images of nature, such as the sun, mountains, rivers, water, fish etc., expressed the nature worship of the Zhuang in contemporary design, representing the simple life and peaceful mind. This research develops a new fashion design and displays the possibility for diverse design development through new insight in contemporary fashion design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.191-203
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to present a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was $3.1{\sim}5.1cm$, hips circumference was $-1.2{\sim}4.2cm$, thigh circumference was $-0.9{\sim}3.1cm$ and pants length was $3.4{\sim}6.1cm$. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.