• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.114-121
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• 2010

Denim is one of the most frequently used fabrics for blue jeans. After washing denim fabric frequently changes its size and color. Salespersons recommended that after purchasing blue jeans customers should dry clean them once before washing. The aim of this study was to investigate to what degree washing with a household washing machine and dry cleaning affected the dimensions and the color of denim fabric. The denim fabric shrank greatly after the first laundering in warp direction regardless of whether it had been dry-cleaned or not. However, it shrank little from the second to the tenth laundering and after each number of dry cleanings. The thickness of the denim changed in the same way as the shrinkage occurred when the number of launderings or dry-cleanings increased. Although the indigo came out of the denim into washing liquor, both of the $L^*$ values and the $b^*$ values of the laundered and the dry-cleaned denim fabrics were lower than those of the control fabric. Darkening of the fabric after washing attributed to the shrinkage in warp; specifically the deep-blue warp yarns more spaced on the fabric face and the back. The $L^*$ and $b^*$ values of the dry-cleaned fabric decreased less than those of the laundered. The value of $a^*$ increased much less than the other values. Staining of the white cotton fabric laundered with the denim fabrics became less as the number of launderings increased. The degree of staining from the dry-cleaned denim was much lower than that of the laundered fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.461-472
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive style of radical feminism and post-modern feminism appearing on the contemporary denim fashion by examining pictures from professional fashion magazine Vogue. For this study, I investigated documents to study the characteristic of radical feminism and post-modern feminism and classified the contemporary denim fashion into erotic look, endrogynous look and deconstructive look. The results of study on the expression style of feminism reflected on the contemporary denim fashion were as follows: First, radical feminism emphasizes that women's sexual feature is never inferior to men's. Therefore in denim fashion, erotic style which emphasize on women's sexual beauty is represented by making hot pants, mini skirt, halter blouse of denim and by using colored jeans and flower print or beads on denim. Second, post-modern feminism has been represented by disregarding or intergrating the existed rule as refusing sexual discrimination. It has been represented in fashion as an endrogynous style by representing neutral gender image. Today, it is represented in denim fashion by mixing a different fabric with denim and matching womanish design with mannish design. Third, post-modem feminism are classified into unfixed expression of genders and the deconstructive expression of methodology. The deconstructive expression of denim fashion is represented by using the damage of fabric by making a hole or tearing intentionally or fraying edge of denim. Also the unfinished designs and transformed dressing are used to express the deconstructive character in denim.

• Journal of Information Processing Systems
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.1008-1014
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• 2020

Aiming at the defect detection quality of denim fabric, this paper designs an improved algorithm based on the optimized Gabor filter. Firstly, we propose an improved defect detection algorithm of jean fabric based on the maximum two-dimensional image entropy and the loss evaluation function. Secondly, 24 Gabor filter banks with 4 scales and 6 directions are created and the optimal filter is selected from the filter banks by the one-dimensional image entropy algorithm and the two-dimensional image entropy algorithm respectively. Thirdly, these two optimized Gabor filters are compared to realize the common defect detection of denim fabric, such as normal texture, miss of weft, hole and oil stain. The results show that the improved algorithm has better detection effect on common defects of denim fabrics and the average detection rate is more than 91.25%.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.465-468
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• 2009

In this study, acid cellulase was used to treat denim fabrics by varying pH, temperature, enzyme concentration, treatment time and non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) concentration. Treatment condition was controlled based on the weight loss. The characteristics of enzyme-treated fabrics were measured in terms of tearing strength, stiffness, and color difference. The optimum conditions for cellulase treatment of denim fabric were pH 5.0, $50^{\circ}C$, 3% (o.w.f.), 90minutes. The weight loss did not change significantly with the addition of a non-ionic surfactant, but it improved when more non-ionic surfactant were used. The tearing strength of enzyme-treated denim fabrics did not deteriorate. The stiffness of the treated fabrics improved with the enzymatic treatment with and without the non-ionic surfactant. The difference in color of fabrics treated with enzyme increased.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.852-862
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• 2007

This study was to investigate the physical properties and the external characteristics of denim fabrics(100% cotton non-spun denim, 98% cotton/2% polyurethane spun denim) such as tensile strength, thickness and weight, flex stiffness, surface color and shrinkage. The results of the study were as follows. After examining the change of external characteristics of before and after washing finishing for denim fabrics, denim with bio washing had increased pliability compared to denim without washing finishing but the pliability of the denim did not increase according to the intensity or frequency of washing. The luminance change according to washing finishing was high in the order of bio stone bleach washing, bio stone washing, bio washing and denim without washing finishing and the surface color became brighter in accordance with the increase of intensity and frequency of washing finishing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.469-473
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• 2009

Recently, eco-friendly processing has been focused in the textile industry in order to reduce environmental pollutions. Applications of enzyme technology to the textile industry are an example of more environmentally compatible processes. However, there is not enough quantity of referring to denim fabric subjected to enzymatic treatment. In this study, depending on pH, temperature, cellulase concentration, and treatment time, the weight loss of denim fabrics was examined. Characteristics of enzyme-treated fabrics were measured by tearing strength, stiffness, and K/S values. The effect of a non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) on characteristics of the enzyme-treated fabrics was evaluated. The cellulase treatment condition on the cotton fabric were optimized to pH 6.0, $50^{\circ}C$, 1%(o.w.f.), and 60minutes. Characteristics of denim fabrics by cellulase treatment in the presence of Triton X-100 did not improve because Triton-X inhibited the activity of enzyme.

• Journal of Information Processing Systems
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.109-117
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• 2023

Defect detection is one of the key factors in fabric quality control. To improve the speed and accuracy of denim fabric defect detection, this paper proposes a defect detection algorithm based on cascading feature extraction architecture. Firstly, this paper extracts these weight parameters of the pre-trained VGG16 model on the large dataset ImageNet and uses its portability to train the defect detection classifier and the defect recognition classifier respectively. Secondly, retraining and adjusting partial weight parameters of the convolution layer were retrained and adjusted from of these two training models on the high-definition fabric defect dataset. The last step is merging these two models to get the defect detection algorithm based on cascading architecture. Then there are two comparative experiments between this improved defect detection algorithm and other feature extraction methods, such as VGG16, ResNet-50, and Xception. The results of experiments show that the defect detection accuracy of this defect detection algorithm can reach 94.3% and the speed is also increased by 1-3 percentage points.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.55-64
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• 2017

This study was performed to help the denim fabric planning which reflects the sensibility preference of university students. Objective characteristics, like color properties and mechanical properties, in 8 denim fabrics (5 cotton 100% fabrics and 3 cotton/polyurethane blended fabrics) were evaluated. And the color preference, subjective sensation and tactile preference of denim fabrics were investigated among the university students. The effect of color preference and tactile preference of denim fabrics on the purchase preference of denim slacks was also examined. Color preference of denim fabrics showed a significant difference according to the kind of denim fabrics. University students preferred purple blue denim fabrics that was measured low $-b^*$ value and low $C^*$ value among the color properties of denim fabrics. Among the mechanical properties of denim fabrics, surface property like MMD, MIU and SMD as well as shear property like 2HG5 were important elements affecting subjective sensation. While, tactile preferences showed a significant difference according to the fabrics. The tactile preferences of cotton/polyurethane blended denim fabrics was highly preferred, and that of heavy 100% cotton denim fabric was lowly preferred. And the subjective sensation affecting tactile preferences were in order of smoothness, softness, lightness. It is concluded that the color preference and tactile preference influenced upon the purchase preference of denim slacks, and color preference had a bigger effect upon the purchase preference.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.107-117
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• 2018

Nettle fiber, a sustainable fiber, was applied to the fabrication of denim to identify changes in textile appearance and formation. For the weaving of nettle denim, nine specimens, distinguished by three kinds of composite use of nettle fiber and three stages of fabrication processes, were used. The kinetic characteristics of the nine specimens were measured by the KES-FB system, and the images of the specimens of finished denim textiles, captured with a CCD Camera, were analyzed. In terms of the extensibility (EM) of nettle denim, all specimens showed post-processing increase, thereby suggesting an easy transformation of the textile as a source material for denim fabric. The effects of washing on the woven formation of denim were also identified. The geometric roughness (SMD), the problematic property of bast-fiber-like nettle fiber, was found to be decreased by washing. In terms of the bending rigidity (B) of the textile, the post-processing shrinking percentage of elastic nettle denim was found to decrease; all specimens that underwent bio-washing only also manifested that post-processing elasticity increased. To improve the draping of nettle denim, a mixed spinning together with washing were found to be advantageous. In terms of the shear stiffness (G), which is closely associated with the appearance of clothes, the formation of textile was improved regardless of the types of processing, including bio-washing and bleach washing.