• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.1056-1063
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• 2015

Waves can be expressed in terms of a spectrum; that is, the energy density distribution of a representative wave can be determined using statistical analysis. The JONSWAP, PM and BM spectra have been widely used for the specific target wave data set during storms. In this case, the extracted wave data are usually discontinuous and independent and cover a very short period of the total data-recording period. Previous studies on the continuous wave spectrum have focused on wave deformation in shallow water conditions and cannot be generalized for deep water conditions. In this study, the Generalized Extreme Value (GEV) function is proposed as a more-optimal function for the fitting of the continuous wave spectral shape based on long-term monitored point wave data in deep waters. The GEV function was found to be able to accurately reproduce the wave spectral shape, except for discontinuous waves of greater than 4 m in height.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.343-351
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• 2012

In this study, shallow-water design waves are calculated for the return period of 10, 20, 30, and 50 years, based on the extreme value analysis of the wave measurement data at Gangneung beach. These values are compared with the results of SWAN simulation with the boundary condition of the deep-water design waves of the corresponding return periods at the Gangneung sea area provided by the Fisheries Agency (FA, 1988) and Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute (KORDI, 2005). It is found that the shallow-water wave heights at Gangneung beach calculated by the deep-water design waves were significantly less than the observation data. As the return period becomes higher, the significant wave heights obtained by the extreme value analysis becomes higher than those computed by SWAN with the deep-water design waves of the corresponding return periods. KORDI computed the hindcast wave data from January 2004 to August 2008 by WAM with a finer-grid mesh system than those of previous studies. Comparisons of the wave hindcast results with the wave observation show that the reproducibility of the winter-season storm wave was considerably improved compared to the hindcast data from 1979 to 2003. Hereafter, it is necessary to carry out hindcast wave data for the years before 2004 using WAM with the finer-grid mesh system and to supplement the deep-water design wave.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.117-121
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• 2001

For the effective development or preservation of Tokdo, the natural environments in the ambient sea area should be well investigated. The wave deformations and wave breaking in the vicinity have much affected the bottom morphology of Tokdo as well as its ecological environment. The present study investigates the wave deformations and wave breaking through a numerical model. The final goal is to provide the fundamental wave data for the effective development or preservation of Tokdo in future. The extended mild slope equation was applied to Tokdo sea area for three different deep water wave conditions (S, SSE, NNE directions). The results showed that for the S and SSE directions the wave heights in the area between the east island and the west island were very low with the level of 1~2m, but for the NNE direction they appeared pretty high with 3~4m, In the sea area near the northwest of west island, the wave heights were low to be 1~3m for all three directions of deep water wave.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.101-107
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• 2022

Dean (1965) proposed the use of the root mean square error (RMSE) in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) and kinematic free-surface boundary condition (KFSBC) as an error evaluation criterion for wave theories. There are well known wave theories with RMSE more than 1%, such as Airy theory, Stokes theory, Dean's stream function theory, Fenton's theory, and trochodial theory for deep-water waves. However, none of them can be applied for deep-water breaking waves. The purpose of this study is to provide a closed-form solution for deep-water waves with RMSE less than 1% even for breaking waves. This study is based on a previous study (Shin, 2016), and all flow fields were simplified for deep-water waves. For a closed-form solution, all Fourier series coefficients and all related parameters are presented with Newton's polynomials, which were determined by curve fitting data (Shin, 2016). For verification, a wave in Miche's limit was calculated, and, the profiles, velocities, and the accelerations were compared with those of 5^th-order Stokes theory. The results give greater velocities and acceleration than 5^th-order Stokes theory, and the wavelength depends on the wave height. The results satisfy the Laplace equation, bottom boundary condition (BBC), and KFSBC, while Stokes theory satisfies only the Laplace equation and BBC. RMSE in DFSBC less than 7.25×10^-2% was obtained. The series order of the proposed method is three, but the series order of 5^th-order Stokes theory is five. Nevertheless, this study provides less RMSE than 5^th-order Stokes theory. As a result, the method is suitable for offshore structural design.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Navigation
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.45-65
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• 1989

Various typhoon data near Yongil Bay, Korea from 1961 to 1985 were collected with some critria and analyzed with the help of the computer. Introducing the pressure profile models and predicting the typhoon wind and wave fields, the 100-year design wave parameters were calculated. Additionally, the wave data at the southeast coast of Korea were statistically analyzed. The deep water wave climate of this bay indicated that Typhoon Brenda, 1985 had wave characteristics of 100-year return period, Typhoon model and storm surge model studies were made for this typhoon. These, including other design parameters, were introduced into the calculation of total design water depth.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.383-396
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• 2016

In this study, wave model was conducted on the presence or absence of water level changes and currents effects in coastal waters coexisting with waves and currents, then the results were compared. The flow field applied the results of the RIAMOM model and the wave model applied the SWAN model. Among ECMWF, NCEP and JMA, wind data applied JMA data sets which agreed well with the observed data comparatively. Numerical simulation was conducted for 8 months from January to August 2016. For each case, the deviation of wave height was calculated for the high wave of more than 2.5 m for comparison with observed data. As a result, the deviation of wave height was not significant both considering water level changes and currents effects or not at wave observation stations installed in deep waters. However, a significant deviation of wave height of 5~10% was obtained depending on water level changes and currents effects at the comparison point in shallow waters.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.479-484
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• 2007

For calculation of wave field for design of coastal and port structures, generally the wind fields from inland observation record or the predicted waves from deep water wave transformation model are being used. However, for the first case, as we should revise the wave data adopting correcting parameters depending on the distance from the coast and location, it is difficult to extract water waves from wind field. Furthermore, for the second case, because of the calculation which executed under very large grid sizes in the wide domain, the simulation(wave transformation) implied uncertainty in the near shore area and shallow region. So it's difficult to obtain exact data from the simulation. Thus, in this study the calculation of wave field on shallow water is accomplished using the observed data of typhoon 'Maemi' in the Korea Eastern South sea. Moreover, for the accuracy of the calculated wave field, we compared and studied the observed data of wave height and direction on the vicinity of the Ulsan waters. It is proved that the results of this study is more accurate than the existing method with showing ${\pm}1.3%$ difference between observed and calculated wave height distribution in Ulsan waters

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.511-520
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• 2007

WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify the model, numerical simulation of waves in Youngil bay, Pohang is performed and the simulated results show good agreements with measured wave data sets, one station at the mouth of bay and two stations inside the bay. As waves propagate toward the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by bottom friction and wave breaking, and wave direction, initially NE changes normal to the shore due to depth refraction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.39-52
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• 2000

The triad interactions have been known to be important only for shoaling waves or finite depth wind waves. In deep water, they are insignificant compared with the quadruplet interactions in respect to the evolution of wind waves due to energy transfer among the wave components. However, the triad interactions may be important even for deep water waves because they may closely be related to the wave steepness, which definitely affects wave breaking, drag of air flow over t.'Ie sea, or navigation of ships, especially during the early stage of the development of wind waves. This study reports a series of laboratory experiments, whose data are subjected to bispectral analyses to investigate the triad interactions of deep-water wind waves. It is found that the bicoherence at the spectral peak frequency and the wave steepness are almost directly proportional, indicating that the steep waves with peaked crests and flat troughs are resulted from the triad interactions. Both bicoherence and wave steepness increase with the wave age during the early stage of wave generation and then drop off as the waves grow old. It seems that the energy of the secondary spectral peak developed by the triad interactions during the early stage of wave generation is redistributed to the neighboring frequencies by the quadruplet interactions during the later stage.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.313-319
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• 2007

Long term wave climate of both extreme and operational wave height is essential for planning and designing coastal structures. Since the availability of the field wave data for the waters around Korean peninsula is limited to provide a reliable wave statistics, the wave climate information has been generated by means of long-term wave hindcasting using available meteorological data. In this paper, a set of deep water wave data obtained from KORDI(2003) were analyzed for extreme wave heights. These wave data at 67 stations off the Korean coast from 1979 to 1998 were arranged in the 16 directions. The probability distributions considered in this research were the FT-I and Weibull distribution. For each of these distributions, the method proposed by Goda(2004) was applied to estimate the parameters. For judgment of best fitting, MIR criterion proposed by Goda and Gobune(1990) was used. FT-I distribution which best fits to the 886 data, while Weibull(k=0.75) 81 data, Weibull(k=1.00) 105 data.